Summer Sports Coats: Yay Or Nay?

Wearing a sports coat in the summer can be a challenge, but it's not impossible. The key is to choose the right fabric and construction to stay cool.

For the fabric, you'll want to opt for something lightweight and breathable. Linen is a popular choice, as it breathes well and has a great textured look. Cotton is another good option, as it's easy to clean and breathes fairly well. You could also go for a wool blend, which will give you a more suit-like look. Just make sure to avoid heavy fabrics like wool, which will be too warm.

In terms of construction, an unstructured jacket with minimal lining will be the most comfortable in hot weather. This means the jacket will have little to no canvas or lining, making it lighter and more breathable. You may also want to consider the number of buttons, lapel style, and cuff details to adjust the level of formality and ventilation.

So, if you're looking to stay sharp and beat the heat this summer, a well-chosen sports coat can be a great addition to your wardrobe.

Summer-appropriate fabrics

When it comes to summer-appropriate fabrics for sports coats, it's important to consider both the weight of the fabric and the type of weave used. Here are some key points to keep in mind:

Weight:

It's recommended to opt for a lightweight fabric for your summer sports coat. Ideally, the fabric weight should be around 8 to 9 oz (240-270 grams). Going any lighter may result in compromises in terms of appearance and drape. Fabrics weighing 7 oz or less may appear too flimsy and tend to wrinkle easily. However, some high-quality weavers are able to produce extremely lightweight fabrics without sacrificing the overall look of the garment.

Weave:

The weave of the fabric plays a crucial role in determining airflow. A tightly woven fabric restricts airflow, while an open weave fabric, such as fresco, allows for better ventilation and makes you feel every little breeze. When choosing a sports coat for summer, look for fabrics with a more open weave. You can test this by holding the fabric up to the light—the more open the weave, the more light will shine through.

Fabric Types:

Now, let's explore some specific fabric types that are well-suited for summer sports coats:

• Linen: Linen is a highly breathable fabric that is perfect for warm weather. It is often blended with wool to reduce wrinkling and give the jacket a more "suit-like" appearance. Linen jackets tend to be inherently casual and are best paired with certain fabrics like silk.
• Cotton: Cotton is another excellent choice for summer sports coats due to its breathability and ease of cleaning. Cotton jackets are usually woven in a denser weave, so they may not be as cool as linen or wool blends.
• Wool Blends: Wool blends, such as a combination of linen and wool, can offer the best of both worlds. They provide the breathability of linen while reducing wrinkling and adding a more formal look.
• Bamboo: Bamboo is a sustainable and comfortable fabric option for warm climates. It is breathable and smooth to the touch, making it an excellent choice for allergy-prone skin.
• Tropical Wool: Tropical wool is an airy, open-weave fabric made from high-twist yarns. It allows heat to escape easily and has natural wrinkle resistance, making it a good choice for travel.
• Wool-Silk-Linen (WSL): WSL combines the drape of wool, the luster of silk, and the crispness of linen. It is airy, breathable, and versatile, suitable for both formal and casual occasions.
• Seersucker: Seersucker is a puckered, striped fabric that is synonymous with Southern style. It is typically worn as a suit, but a seersucker jacket can also be paired with chinos or a white button-down shirt for a more casual look.
• Madras: Madras is a colorful fabric that originates from India. It used to bleed easily, but modern versions are colorfast, making them a vibrant and fun choice for summer sports coats.

The weave of the fabric

When it comes to the weave of the fabric, it is important to remember that a tightly woven fabric restricts airflow, while an open-weave fabric, such as fresco, allows you to feel even the slightest breeze. Therefore, it is recommended to opt for a fabric with an open weave. To determine the weave of the fabric, simply hold it up to the light. A tightly woven fabric won't allow much light to pass through, whereas an open-weave fabric will be more transparent.

Linen or cotton are often used for sport coat fabrics as they are well-suited for warmer weather. These fabrics are usually blended with silk or wool, resulting in a textured fabric with a distinct summer look. The Gagliardi sport coat, for example, is made from 60% linen and 40% cotton, giving it a beautiful texture and a crisp feel.

Even with an open-weave fabric, adding a lining to your coat will restrict airflow. Linings are typically added to suits to protect the outer fabric and allow the jacket to glide smoothly over the shirt underneath. However, they add extra weight and act as an insulator, making them less suitable for summer sport coats.

For maximum airflow, an unlined jacket is the best option. However, these jackets are rare and can be more time-consuming to tailor. As a compromise, half-lined coats are a good choice, as they offer a balance between comfort and airflow. Most summer jackets feature a "half" lining, with only the shoulders and sleeves lined, allowing for a smooth fit and comfortable movement.

In addition to the weave, the interlining of the coat is also important for breathability. A sewn interlining, also known as full canvas, is the best option for keeping cool, as it allows air to flow freely. Value sport coats often feature a half canvas construction, while cheap garments have an all-fused construction, which is the least breathable option.

When choosing a summer sport coat, it is crucial to consider not only the weight of the fabric but also the weave and lining. By selecting an open-weave fabric, opting for minimal lining, and choosing the right interlining, you can stay cool and comfortable during the warm summer months.

Lining

There are two main types of jacket linings: fully-lined and half-lined. A fully-lined jacket has a lining across the entire back and down the sides, while a half-lined jacket typically has a lining across the upper back and down the sides, but not on the lower back. There are also quarter-lined or butterfly jackets, which are similar to half-lined jackets but with the lining removed from the sides, and skeleton linings, which have minimal lining, usually just a small covering in the upper back to protect the suit canvas.

The advantages of a fully-lined jacket include added weight and structure, protection from sweat, and the ability to hide imperfections in the construction of the jacket. Lined jackets are also generally less expensive and easier to adjust than unlined jackets.

On the other hand, unlined or half-lined jackets are often preferred for summer or warm-weather wear as they are lighter and more breathable. They are also a good choice for loose-weave fabrics like seersucker, hopsack, and linen, as they allow for better airflow and can be more comfortable in casual styles.

The type of fabric used for the lining also makes a difference. Silk is considered the gold standard as it is soft, lightweight, and breathable, but it is more expensive. Polyester is a popular choice as it is affordable, durable, and easy to care for, while cotton and rayon are other common options, with cotton being more breathable and rayon being more lightweight and moisture-wicking.

Ultimately, the decision between a lined or unlined jacket depends on individual needs and preferences. Lined jackets offer more structure and durability, while unlined jackets are lighter and more breathable, making them better suited for warmer weather.

Interlining

There are two main types of interlining: sew-in interlining and fusible interlining. Sew-in interlining is sewn together with the outer fabric and includes haircloth interlining, shirt interlining, and more. Fusible interlining is bonded to the outer fabric using heat from pressing machines or irons and is commonly used in men's and women's clothing, as well as uniforms.

Haircloth interlining is primarily used for the front panels of men's suits and jackets. It is further classified into three types: body interlining, which serves as the foundation of the entire interlining structure; chest piece interlining, which provides reinforcement for the chest area; and shoulder pad interlining, which reinforces the shoulder area.

When selecting interlining for a summer sport coat, it is important to consider the breathability of the material. Top-quality garments have a sewn interlining and no fusing, also called full canvas. These are the best option to keep cool as they allow air to flow freely. Half canvas construction is another option, where the chest has sewn interlining while the bottom part of the front quarters are fused. Cheap garments usually feature an all-fused construction, which is the least breathable option.

Patterns and colours

A solid navy sport coat is a wardrobe staple, but for summer, you'll want something lightweight, airy, and breathable. Consider a navy twill with a bit of texture, or a hopsack sport coat, which has a basket weave that keeps it light, breathable, and wrinkle-resistant. It also gives the material a coarser texture and a sporty feel, making it ideal for pairing with jeans.

If you already have a navy sport coat, consider a dark blue jacket with a subtle pattern, such as a monochromatic glen plaid or a windowpane check. Patterned sport coats are less formal than their solid-coloured counterparts, but they can add visual interest to simple outfits, especially if you usually wear solid-coloured shirts without a tie.

After navy, earth tones are a good choice for summer. Light brown is a perfect summer colour, while dark brown is better suited for winter. If a solid light brown sport coat seems too plain, try a patterned option like a worsted tweed or "faux tweed." These patterns mimic the district checks found on traditional tweeds but are rendered in a hard-finished, worsted yarn. "Faux tweeds" are rustic yet airy, light, and comfortable to wear on hot, humid days.

For a more adventurous look, consider pale greens like olive and sage, which can be paired with trousers in tan, cream, or grey. A patterned sage green sport coat with a saddle brown overcheck can add a unique touch and pick up the colour in your watch strap and shoes.

Summer is also the time to experiment with brighter, bolder colours and patterns. Blue and white is a classic summer combination, but you can try interesting patterns like gingham check or Madras, a colourful, plain-weave fabric from India that has become a staple of classic American style.

When choosing a summer sport coat, remember that the pattern serves both a functional and stylistic purpose. The open weave of the jacket means that a pattern will help to mask the transparency that would otherwise reveal the colour differences underneath.

Frequently asked questions