How To Hem A T-Shirt: A Step-By-Step Guide

Hemming a T-shirt is a relatively simple process that can be done at home or by a professional. It is a great way to alter the length of your T-shirt to your desired preference. If you are planning to hem your T-shirt at home, you will need a sewing machine, iron, and iron-on hem tape (optional). First, turn your T-shirt inside out and cut it to your desired length, leaving an extra 0.5 inches for the hem. Then, fold the hem by 0.5 inches, iron it flat, and secure it with sewing pins. Finally, sew the hem using a zigzag or stretch stitch, and you're done! If you don't know how to sew, you can use iron-on hem tape instead. On the other hand, if you prefer a professional finish, you can always take your T-shirt to a tailor or dry cleaner, who will be able to hem it for you at a small cost.

Cutting a T-shirt

Simple Hem, Neck and Arm Cuts

• Crop Top: Cut off the bottom half of a long or baggy T-shirt to make a trendy crop top. You can cut in a straight line or create a more personalised look by cutting triangles, diamonds, or vertical lines to create a bohemian fringe.
• Tank Top or Muscle Tee: Cut along the armhole seams of the sleeves to make them wider or remove them entirely. You can also cut out the neckline seam for a more distressed, slouchy look.
• Wider Neckline: Cut along the thick hem of the collar to make the neckline wider than a typical crew neck. The more you cut off the collar, the wider the new neckline will be. For a symmetrical cut, fold the shirt in half first, so the shoulder seams line up.
• Side or Back Slits: Make horizontal cuts from the bottom of the sleeve to the bottom hem to create "fish gills". You can also cut vertical slits for an edgier look or vary the size of the holes for a distressed look.
• Shoulder Cutouts: Cut a half-circle out of each upper arm of the T-shirt for a cute and feminine peek-a-boo shoulder look.

Edgy Woven Neck and Back Design

• Neckline Weave: Cut small, vertical slits around the bottom band of the collar and create longer cuts fanning out from the neckline. Stretch the fabric on either side of each slit to make it easier to weave. Then, weave the fabric together to create a braided or looped design.
• Back Weave: Cut a slit across the back of the shirt and weave the fabric together as you did for the neckline. Secure the weave by cutting the last piece of fabric in half and tying it in place.

Adorable Sleeve and Back Bow Details

• Sleeve Bows: Cut a 2.5-inch (6.4 cm) slit in each shoulder of the T-shirt. Trim off the shirt's hem and use the extra fabric to tie bows at the sleeves.
• Bow-Back Shirt: Cut out a scooping neckline at the back of the shirt, about 4 inches (10 cm) long. Make a slit across the back, about 6 inches (15 cm) down from each armpit, and gather the fabric to create a bow with the excess fabric.

Remember to put your T-shirt on before you start cutting to get a sense of how much you want to cut off. It's better to start with a smaller cut and then cut more if needed. You can also draw lines with a pen or chalk to ensure straight and even cuts. Always use sharp fabric scissors for the best results.

Sewing a T-shirt hem

Preparing the T-shirt

Firstly, decide how short you want the T-shirt to be. Put the T-shirt on and mark where you want the new hem to be with a dressmaker's chalk, pen, or a sewing pin. Take the T-shirt off and turn it inside out. Cut the T-shirt about half an inch longer than you want it to be, using a ruler to measure and draw a line to ensure the T-shirt will be the same length all around.

Folding and Pressing the Hem

Next, fold the hem by half an inch. This will be the inside of the hem, and the T-shirt should now be the exact desired length. The raw edge does not need to be finished as T-shirt material does not fray. However, you can serge the raw edge if desired. Press the hem flat with an iron, ensuring the heat setting is suitable for the T-shirt material.

Securing the Hem

Secure the hem with sewing pins. If you don't have a sewing machine or know how to sew, you can use iron-on hem tape instead. Simply slip the tape into the hem and iron over it, following the instructions on the package.

Sewing the Hem

If you are sewing the hem, use a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch, and a thread colour that matches the T-shirt. Sew as close to the raw edge as possible, removing pins as you sew. Start sewing at one of the side seams to help conceal the start and end of the sewing. Sew back and forth over the start and end of the sewing a few times to prevent unraveling.

Finishing Up

Finally, cut off any excess or loose threads, and your T-shirt is ready to wear!

Using iron-on hem tape

Hemming a T-shirt with iron-on hem tape is a quick and easy process. Here is a step-by-step guide:

Step 1: Prepare the T-shirt

Turn your T-shirt inside out and mark how much you want to hem it. You can use a pin to mark the desired length while wearing the T-shirt. Then, use a ruler and a marking pen to indicate the new length. If you don't have a washable pen, you can use chalk instead. Remember to add a little extra length, as you will need to fold the fabric before applying the hem tape.

Step 2: Cut the T-shirt

Cut the T-shirt a little longer than your desired length. The exact amount will depend on the width of your hem tape, but it is usually about 1 inch (2.5 cm).

Step 3: Fold the hem

Fold the part of the T-shirt that you want to hem. The T-shirt should still be inside out, except for the bottom where you will apply the hem tape. Make sure the T-shirt is now the length you want it to be.

Step 4: Cut the hem tape

Cut your hem tape to the length of the hem of your T-shirt, adding about half an inch (1.27 cm) extra.

Step 5: Apply the hem tape

Place the adhesive side of the hem tape down over the raw hem, ensuring it is straight and covers all the edges. The adhesive side is the one with white woven strings and will look shinier than the non-adhesive side.

Step 6: Press the hem tape

Use an iron to press the hem tape. If your T-shirt is not made of cotton, place a press cloth between the iron and the fabric. Set your iron to medium heat (around 150°C or 302°F) and press down on the hem tape for about 10 seconds. Do not slide the iron; simply apply pressure and then move on to the next section.

Step 7: Allow the fabric to cool

Once you have finished pressing, let the fabric cool down. If you make a mistake, you can use a damp press cloth to iron over the hem tape and gently peel it off. There may be some residue, so it is best to try again with fresh tape.

Tips:

• Iron the fold to create a visible crease, making it easier to manage.
• Be careful when using pins, and consider using safety pins or plastic pins.
• Always check the clothing label before using iron-on hem tape. Some fabrics, such as water-repellent clothes, leather, nylon, or very thin cloth, may not be suitable for this method.
• When applying the iron, work quickly and seal the hem with a quick action. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, check the heat setting and match it to the garment's label.
• Avoid pressing with high heat, as this can cause the adhesive to become loose and tangled. Use low heat or air dry instead.

Choosing the right needle and thread

When hemming a T-shirt, it is important to choose the right needle and thread to accommodate the stretchy fabric. The goal is to achieve a professional finish with ease.

Firstly, you will need a twin needle, which is a specialty needle consisting of two needles mounted on a single shaft. Look for a package marked "Twin Needle/Stretch" in either 2.5 or 4.0 mm. The number denotes the distance between the needles; the larger the number, the greater the distance. Stretch needles are designed with a ballpoint and a specially crafted eye and scarf to prevent skipped stitches.

Next, select the appropriate thread. For most garment sewing, 100% polyester thread is recommended due to its strength and ability to withstand stretching, wear, and washing. A new type of thread called Seraflex, a synthetic material that is stretchy without elastic, is also a good option for T-shirt hemming. It has the added benefit of being usable in both the needles and the bobbin.

To thread your sewing machine for a twin needle, follow these steps:

• Insert the twin needle into your machine.
• Add your first spool of thread to the Horizontal Spool Pin, following the normal threading path until you reach the tension disc.
• With the presser foot raised, place the first thread on the right side of the guide in the tension discs.
• Continue threading as usual, and manually thread the first thread through the right needle.
• Place the second spool of thread on the Vertical Spool Pin, bringing the thread through the small wire thread guide and then back to the normal threading path.
• When you reach the tension disc, place the second thread on the left side of the guide.
• Continue threading and thread the second thread through the left needle.
• Wind a bobbin with the same thread as your needles and insert it into the machine.

Now you are ready to stitch your hem! Place your T-shirt under the presser foot with the right side up. Choose a starting point, such as one of the side seams, and line up the fold of your hem with the desired measurement. Hold the two needle threads as you begin to sew, and maintain an even hem by ensuring your fabric is feeding straight.

When to ask a professional

Hemming a T-shirt is a relatively straightforward process, but if you're nervous about doing it yourself, or you want a more professional finish, it might be worth seeking the help of a professional.

If you don't own a sewing machine, or don't know how to sew, it's best to ask a professional for help. While there are alternatives to sewing, such as using iron-on hem tape or fabric glue, these methods can make the T-shirt stiffer and may not hold up as well over time. A professional will be able to advise you on the best method for your T-shirt and ensure a neat, durable finish.

If your T-shirt is made from a woven material, such as linen, it's also best to ask a professional. Woven materials are more prone to fraying, so they require a different technique to hem effectively.

It's also worth considering the value of your T-shirts. If they are expensive or have sentimental value, it's probably worth paying a professional to ensure a high-quality finish and avoid accidentally ruining your favourite shirt.

Finally, if you want a more complex hem, such as a curved or asymmetrical hem, it's best to ask a professional. They will have the skills and experience to create a neat, even hem, even on curved or uneven edges.

Frequently asked questions