
Sewing a T-shirt can be a daunting task, but it is a great way to upcycle old clothing and create unique pieces. Whether you are an experienced sewer or a beginner, there are many ways to approach this project. In this article, we will explore different techniques for sewing T-shirts, including creating a pattern from a well-fitting shirt, choosing the right fabric and tools, and assembling the T-shirt with or without a sewing machine. We will also discuss common challenges and provide tips for a professional-looking finish. By the end, you should feel empowered to give sewing a T-shirt a try and make your own custom wardrobe favourites.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Sewing a T-shirt | Easy |
Sewing a T-shirt from scratch | Scary or complicated |
Sewing knits | Requires specific tools and tricks |
Sewing stretch knit fabrics | Requires a stretch stitch |
Sewing machines | Do not always have an overlock stitch |
Sewing needles | Ballpoint needles are required for knit fabrics |
Sewing the neckband | Requires a magic formula |
Sewing the hem | Requires a twin needle |
Sewing stretch fabric | Requires a double-stitched seam |
Sewing with a serger | Faster and easier than sewing by hand |
Sewing T-shirts onto jackets | Requires duct tape, leather patches, or iron-on backing |
What You'll Learn
Sewing a T-shirt from scratch
Choose a Pattern or Draft Your Own
Start by deciding on the style of T-shirt you want to create. You can find basic T-shirt patterns online or in fabric stores. If you're feeling adventurous, you can even draft your own pattern by tracing the outline of a well-fitting T-shirt onto paper and adding seam allowances.
Select the Right Fabric
Most T-shirts are made with knit fabric, but you can choose a knit with less stretch to make sewing easier. Pre-wash and dry your fabric to pre-shrink it and set the dye, ensuring more accurate sizing for your final garment.
Cut Out Your Pattern Pieces
Fold your fabric in half, right sides together, and place your pattern pieces on top. Pin the pattern, trace around it, and carefully cut out each piece. Remember to match the fold marks on your pattern to the fold of your fabric.
Prepare the Ribbing for the Collar
Measure your neckline and cut a piece of ribbing knit fabric to that length, subtracting 4 inches (10 cm). Fold the ribbing in half lengthwise and press the fold with an iron. Then, stitch the width ends together with a 1/4-inch (6-mm) seam allowance.
Sew the Shoulders and Attach the Ribbing
Pin the front and back body pieces together at the shoulders, right sides facing inward. Stitch across both shoulder seams. Open up the shirt, lay it flat, and pin the ribbing to the neckline, stretching it gently to fit. Sew the ribbing in place with a zigzag stitch, using a 1/4-inch (6-mm) seam allowance.
Attach the Sleeves and Sew the Sides
Pin the sleeves to the armholes, right sides facing down, matching the rounded portions of the sleeve and armhole. Sew the sleeves in place with a straight stitch. With the shirt still open and right-side up, sew a straight stitch down both sides of the shirt, from the underarm seam to the bottom opening.
Finish with Hemming
Fold and sew hems at the bottom of the shirt and the sleeve openings. Most knit fabrics are fray-resistant, so hemming is optional but creates a neater appearance. Turn your shirt right-side out, press the seams, and your T-shirt is ready to wear!
Tips for Sewing Stretch Knit Fabrics:
- Use the right stitch: Ensure your stitches won't pop when the fabric is stretched. You can use a serger, an overlock stitch, or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt-shaped) on your sewing machine. Alternatively, sew "double-stitched seams" by sewing a straight stitch and then sewing again 1/8" inside the first stitching.
- Use the right sewing machine needle: Ballpoint needles are recommended for knit fabrics to prevent skipped stitches.
- Neckband patterns: Neckband pattern pieces are often too big. Refer to specific guides on creating the perfect neckband.
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Sewing a T-shirt without a sewing machine
Sewing a T-shirt by hand may seem daunting, but it's a straightforward process that doesn't require a lot of skill or time. You can copy a well-fitting T-shirt and recreate it with different fabrics and colours. All you need is a needle, thread, scissors, and some knowledge of sewing techniques.
Step 1: Minimal Materials
You will need two T-shirts: one that fits you well and one that is too big. Lay the larger shirt on a clean surface, ensuring it lies flat and wrinkle-free. Then, place the smaller shirt on top of the larger one.
Step 2: Removing Material
Using the smaller shirt as a pattern, cut along one side, following the seam that joins the arms to the body. Fold the larger shirt over, so the right side of the neckline lays over the left side, creating a symmetrical shape. You can also trim the bottom of the larger shirt to match the length of the smaller one, but this is optional.
Step 3: Trimming the Sleeves
Use the sleeves of the smaller shirt as a guide to cut the excess fabric from the larger shirt's sleeves. Lay out all the shirt pieces to ensure they look correct.
Step 4: Joining the Sleeves
Turn the shirt pieces inside out, so the inside faces up, and spread them out like a butterfly. Sew the centre of the sleeve to the centre of the T-shirt, passing the needle and thread through one or two times, then tie a knot. Sew the armpits of the sleeves to the armpits of the shirt, and create two to three connections between the centre of the sleeve and the armpit to temporarily join the sleeves to the shirt.
Step 5: Joining the Torso
Fold the shirt so that the armpits and hems match up. Sew the bottom hem of the shirt together on each side of the torso, tying a knot after one or two passes. Create five or six connections between the hem and the armpit to temporarily join the two halves of the shirt. Sew one stitch at the hemline of each sleeve, again tying a knot after one or two passes.
Step 6: Trying On and Adjustments
Try on the shirt to check the fit. If there are any issues, now is the time to fix them or make alterations. If the fit is good, move on to the next step.
Step 7: Sewing the Seams
This is the most time-consuming step, so make sure you have something to entertain yourself during the process. With the shirt still inside out, sew the seams, adding a stitch approximately every half centimetre. A blanket stitch is recommended for durability and aesthetics, but other stitches like the catch stitch or herringbone stitch are also good options. Sew each seam from the bottom hem of the torso into the armpit and then to the end of each sleeve. Sew the seam that joins the sleeve to the torso of the shirt.
Now you have a custom-fitted T-shirt made without a sewing machine!
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Sewing an image onto a T-shirt
Step 1: Prepare your materials
You will need an inkjet printer, transfer paper, an iron, and a T-shirt. Choose your transfer paper depending on the colour of your T-shirt. Light transfer paper is used for light or white shirts, while dark transfer paper is used for any shirt that is darker. You will also need a hard, flat surface to work on, such as a table or countertop, and a cotton pillowcase.
Step 2: Prepare your image
Select a high-quality image for your T-shirt design. If you only have a physical copy of the image, scan it and save it to your computer as a JPEG file, or take a photograph and transfer it to your computer. If you plan to sell T-shirts with this image, be sure to use only your original designs or photos.
Step 3: Print your image
Before printing, check the preview to confirm that the image fits onto your paper. If it's too large, select "fit to scale" in the print options or scale it down using an image editing program. When you are ready to print, load the transfer paper into your printer, making sure to print on the blank side. If you are using light transfer paper, you will need to mirror or reverse the image so that it is not a mirrored image when transferred to your shirt.
Step 4: Cut out the image
Cut around the edges of your picture to make sure there is no excess transfer paper left before you iron it onto the fabric. Use a ruler and an Exacto knife for a more accurate cut.
Step 5: Prepare your T-shirt
Place your T-shirt on top of the pillowcase, ensuring it is completely flat. Any wrinkles will show up in the transferred image. Set your iron according to the instructions that came with your transfer paper. If no advice is given, select the "cotton" or high-temperature setting, turn off the steam, and empty all water from the iron.
Step 6: Apply the transfer
Place the image on your T-shirt, making sure it is centred. If using light transfer paper, place the image face down; if using dark transfer paper, place the image face up. Press the iron firmly over the image, pushing down with your whole hand for significant pressure. Iron the image for the amount of time specified in the instructions for your transfer paper.
Step 7: Remove the paper
Let the T-shirt cool for a few minutes, then gently peel off the paper to reveal your custom design!
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Sewing a T-shirt using a pattern
Step 1: Gather Your Materials
You will need a T-shirt that fits you well, pattern paper, a pencil, paper scissors, a seam gauge or ruler, pins, and some space on your table. You will also need a jersey knit fabric (1 ½ yards should be enough, depending on the size of your T-shirt), matching thread, and a double needle.
Step 2: Make the Pattern
A basic T-shirt has four pattern pieces: the sleeves, front body piece, back body piece, and neckband piece. Start by folding your T-shirt in half, matching the shoulder, armpit, and bottom seam, and pinning them together. Lay the folded T-shirt flat on your table, with the fold of the T-shirt along the edge of your paper. Fold the arms under so you only see the body, and fold the body in half. Trace around the back body piece, adding a ½” seam allowance all around (except on the fold).
Repeat this process for the front body piece, making sure to mark the neckline differently from the back piece. For the sleeves, you can trace the first three sides, and then either trace the attached side on top of the T-shirt if you have transparent paper, or fold away the sleeve to draw that line. Add a ½ inch seam allowance on two sides and ¾ inch on the arm opening for the hem.
Step 3: Cut and Prepare the Fabric
Using your pattern pieces, pin and copy them onto your fabric. Make sure to include the stretch direction markings on your fabric, usually indicated by red double arrows. Cut out the pattern pieces, and you should have five pieces in total: two sleeves, a back body piece, a front body piece, and a neckband piece.
Step 4: Sew the Pieces Together
Finish the bottom edges (waist) and the edge of both arm seams. You can leave the rest unfinished if you are using jersey fabric, as it doesn't fray. Pin the front and back body pieces together at the shoulder seams, with right sides facing, and sew them together using a stretch needle and stretch stitch.
Step 5: Attach the Neckband
Fold the neckband piece in half lengthwise, with wrong sides facing, and spray with starch if needed for easier handling. Pin the neckband to the neckline, matching the raw edges on the right side, and stretching the piece slightly to distribute it evenly. Sew the neckband to the neckline using a zigzag stitch, which allows the thread to stretch with the fabric.
Step 6: Attach the Sleeves
With right sides together, pin the middle of the sleeve curve to the middle of the armhole. Continue pinning the sleeve down one side of the armhole to the end, and then do the same for the other side. Sew the sleeve to the armhole with a 3/8 inch seam allowance, and iron out the seams.
Step 7: Sew the Side Seams
With right sides together, fold the front of the shirt over the back, and pin down the sleeves and sides. Start sewing from the end of the sleeve, down to the armpit, and continue down the side seam with a straight stitch.
Step 8: Hem the T-Shirt
To hem the T-shirt, use a single turn and a double needle for both the waist and sleeves. The double needle gives the seam a little stretch and mimics the look of a professional coverstitch hem.
And that's it! You've sewn a T-shirt using a pattern. Feel free to add your own creative touches, such as embroidery, pockets, or stencilled images. Happy sewing!
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Sewing a T-shirt backpatch
Gather Your Supplies:
You will need a T-shirt with a design you want to showcase, fabric scissors, an iron and ironing board, adhesive backing or fusible interfacing, fabric for the backing, sewing pins, a needle and thread, and a sewing machine (optional).
Prepare the T-shirt:
Cut out the design from your T-shirt, leaving some extra fabric around the edges for adjustment. Try to cut as cleanly as possible to avoid frayed ends. If you're worried about the fabric fraying, you can treat the edges with clear nail polish or nail polish that matches the colour of the fabric.
Apply Adhesive Backing:
Get some adhesive backing or fusible interfacing to keep the T-shirt fabric from shifting or wiggling while you sew. Cut a piece of the adhesive backing that is slightly larger than your T-shirt design. Follow the instructions on the packaging, but generally, you will place the adhesive backing rough-side down on the back of your fabric and use a steam iron to press it in place.
Prepare the Backing Fabric:
Cut a piece of fabric for the backing that is slightly larger than your T-shirt design. You can use denim, vinyl leather, or any other sturdy fabric of your choice. If you're using a sewing machine, you may want to use a ballpoint needle to sew through the T-shirt fabric.
Attach the T-shirt Design:
Place the T-shirt design on the backing fabric and use safety pins to anchor it in place. You can also use spray starch to help stiffen the T-shirt fabric and make it easier to work with. Sew the design onto the backing fabric, going over the stitches twice to ensure durability.
Admire Your Work:
Once you've sewn the T-shirt design onto the backing fabric, stand back and admire your handiwork! You now have a unique backpatch that showcases your favourite design. You can sew this patch onto a jacket, bag, or any other item of your choice.
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Frequently asked questions
Most basic T-shirts are made from cotton jerseys. You can also use a cotton-spandex blend or a rayon spandex blend, which drapes more.
You don't need a special machine; a basic sewing machine capable of doing a zig-zag stitch will work.
Unless you're using fabric with high spandex content, a universal 80/10 needle should work. If you're using a slinkier knit, you can also try attaching a walking foot to your machine to feed the fabric through without stretching it.
You'll need to use a sewing technique that ensures your stitches won't pop when you stretch the fabric. Most machines have a stretch stitch that looks like a lightning bolt and is specifically for sewing knit fabrics.
It depends on your size and the width of the fabric, but 1 to 1.5 yards is a good estimate.