How To Hem A T-Shirt: A Step-By-Step Guide

Hemming a T-shirt is a simple process that can be done at home. It is a great way to alter the length of your T-shirt to your desired preference. The process involves cutting the T-shirt to the desired length, folding the hem, ironing it flat, and then sewing it in place. There are different ways to hem a T-shirt, depending on the style of the shirt and the type of material. For example, a T-shirt made of stretchy material can be hemmed by cutting the shirt, folding the hem, and sewing with a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch. On the other hand, a button-up shirt made of woven material requires a different approach, as the raw edges need to be concealed to prevent fraying. By following these steps and choosing the appropriate method for your T-shirt, you can easily achieve a neat and professional-looking hem.

Hemming a T-Shirt Using the Original Hem

Step 1: Determine the Desired Length

First, put on the shirt and decide how short you want it to be. Make a mark on the outside of the shirt at the desired length. Keep in mind that the shirt will be slightly longer, depending on the width of the original hem.

Step 2: Mark the New Hem Line

Use a dressmaker's chalk or pen to draw a line around the shirt at an even distance from the bottom edge. Spread the shirt out on a flat surface, right-side-out, and use a ruler to measure up from the bottom edge as you draw the line. This ensures that the shirt will be the same length all around.

Step 3: Fold the Hem

Fold the original hem up until the bottom edge touches the line you drew. Keep folding all the way around the shirt. The shirt should now be a little shorter. You are still working on the outside of the shirt at this point.

Step 4: Sew the Hem

Sew around the shirt as close to the selvage edge as possible. Use a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch on your sewing machine, and make sure the thread colour closely matches the shirt.

Step 5: Fold the Hem Back Down

Fold the hem back down and tuck the excess fabric inside the shirt, away from the bottom of the hem. Keep the shirt right-side-out. You should now see the original hem, the hem's original stitching, and the new seam just above it.

Step 6: Press the Hem

Press the hem with an iron to flatten it and make the bottom of the shirt smoother. You can secure the hem with sewing pins if needed.

Step 7: Topstitch

Topstitch as close to the seam as possible, between 1/8 to 3/16 inch (3.2 to 4.3 millimeters) away. Use a stretch stitch and sew back and forth over the start and end of the sewing a few times to prevent unraveling. Start sewing at one of the side seams to better conceal the start and end of the sewing.

Step 8: Cut the Excess Fabric

Turn the shirt inside out and cut away the excess material as close to the stitching as possible. Discard the excess fabric or save it for another project.

Step 9: Finish

Turn the shirt right-side-out, and you're done! Your shirt is now ready to wear with its original hem intact.

Sewing machine vs. iron-on hem tape

Hemming a T-shirt using a sewing machine and iron-on hem tape are two very different processes, each with its own pros and cons. Here is a detailed comparison of the two methods:

Sewing Machine

Using a sewing machine to hem a T-shirt can give a professional finish, but it requires more time, skill, and equipment than the iron-on hem tape method. When using a sewing machine, it is important to choose the right type of needle and thread. A twin needle is often recommended for a professional-looking finish on T-shirts, but it can be tricky to use and may require some practice beforehand. Alternatively, a standard ballpoint or jersey needle can be used with a stretch stitch, such as a zigzag stitch, for a simpler option. It is also important to note that T-shirt fabric can get wavy when not handled properly, so adjustments to the machine, such as lowering the presser foot pressure, may be necessary. Additionally, using double-sided sticky tape made for sewing can help temporarily hold the hem in place and prevent it from stretching.

Iron-on Hem Tape

Iron-on hem tape, also known as hemming tape or fusible web, is a quick and easy alternative to sewing. It is designed to fuse two layers of fabric together without any stitching involved. This method is perfect for quick repairs or when you don't have access to a sewing machine. The most popular type of hem tape is double-sided, which is placed between the layers of fabric and fused with an iron. However, it is important to note that not all hem tapes are the same, and some are applied to just one side of the fabric. When choosing a hem tape, consider the type of fabric, the weight of the fabric, and the desired permanence of the hem. For example, lightweight fabrics require lightweight or ultra-lightweight tape, while heavyweight fabrics require heavyweight tape. Additionally, some fabrics, such as highly elastic or waterproof materials, may not be suitable for hem tape. It is also important to follow the instructions on the package, as the iron temperature and technique can vary depending on the type of tape and fabric.

In conclusion, both methods have their advantages and disadvantages. The sewing machine method provides a more professional and durable finish but requires more time, skill, and equipment. On the other hand, the iron-on hem tape method is quick, easy, and requires minimal equipment, but may not be suitable for all fabrics and may not be as durable as sewing. Ultimately, the best method depends on the specific project and the user's skills and preferences.

Preparing the T-shirt for hemming

Selecting the Appropriate Length

First, decide how much you want to shorten the T-shirt. Try it on and determine the ideal length based on your preferences and the style of the shirt. Remember that different styles may require varying amounts of fabric to be removed. For example, a casual T-shirt might be shortened differently from a formal dress shirt.

Measuring and Marking the Desired Hemline

Use a measuring tape to carefully measure the distance from the bottom edge of the T-shirt to the desired new hemline. Mark this measurement with fabric chalk or pins on both sides of the shirt. Ensure that the marks are even and straight for a professional result.

Removing Embellishments

Now that the hemline is marked, remove any buttons or embellishments from the area to be hemmed. This will make sewing easier and prevent damage to the shirt.

Finishing Raw Edges

If the fabric is prone to fraying, consider finishing the raw edges to prevent it from unraveling. You can use a serger or a zigzag stitch to secure the fabric and create a neat finish.

Folding and Pressing the Fabric

Fold the fabric up to the marked hemline, creating a small fold on the wrong side of the fabric. Use an iron to press the fold and ensure it stays in place. This step helps create a crisp and smooth appearance for the hem.

Securing the Hem with Pins

Insert pins vertically along the folded edge to secure the hem in place and prevent the fabric from shifting while sewing. This step ensures that the fabric remains stable and helps you achieve a straight stitch line.

By following these steps, you will have your T-shirt ready for hemming, whether you choose to use a sewing machine or hand stitch the hem.

Folding the hem

There are several ways to fold a T-shirt, and the method you choose will depend on how you want to store your T-shirts and whether you want to display any designs on the front. Here is a step-by-step guide to Martha Stewart's favourite method:

• Lay the shirt horizontally and face up in front of you with the neck on the right-hand side.
• Using both hands, pinch the shirt on the side opposite you at two points: with one hand at the shoulder, midway between the sleeve and the neck, and the other halfway down the shirt, parallel to your other hand.
• While holding the two points, cross your right hand over your left, bringing the shoulder down to meet the shirt's bottom hem, and grab the hem.
• Lift the shirt so it hangs in front of you.
• Uncross your arms without letting go of the shirt and pull the fold taut as you do so.
• Place the hanging sleeve on the work surface, and neatly drape the folded portion over to finish.

If you want to fold your T-shirts for packing, you will want to conserve space in your bag. Here is a method that will help you do that:

• Spread the shirt out on a flat surface with the front facing you.
• Tuck the sleeves back behind the shirt.
• Fold the shirt into thirds horizontally.
• Bring the neckline down an inch from the bottom of the shirt.
• Fold the shirt into thirds vertically.

If you want to file fold your T-shirts so you can stack them vertically in drawers, follow these steps:

• Spread the shirt out on a flat surface with the back facing you.
• Fold the right side of the shirt into the middle horizontally.
• Fold the left side of the shirt into the middle horizontally so it meets the other side of the shirt.
• Fold the shirt in half horizontally so the two ends are kissing.
• Fold the shirt into thirds horizontally.

If you want to square fold your T-shirts to create a larger square that allows you to see any logos when you tuck your shirts into drawers, do the following:

• Spread the shirt out on a flat surface with the front facing you.
• Pinch the right and left sides of the shirt, each under the armpits, and fold it in half horizontally.
• Fold the shirt in half again vertically.
• Take the bottom of the shirt and fold it up towards the middle of the shirt.
• Fold a third time up to the top to form a square.

Sewing the hem

• Turn the T-shirt inside out: Before you begin cutting or sewing, make sure to turn the T-shirt inside out. This will ensure that any marks or stitches you make are on the inside of the shirt and not visible from the outside.
• Determine the desired length: Decide how short you want the T-shirt to be. You can put the shirt on and use a dressmaker's chalk, pen, or even a sewing pin to mark the desired length. Take the shirt off and ensure it remains inside out.
• Cut the shirt longer than the desired length: Cut the shirt about 1/2 inch (1.27 centimetres) longer than your desired length. This extra fabric will be used to create the hem. You can use a ruler to measure and draw a line with chalk or a pen to ensure a straight cut.
• Fold the hem: Fold the bottom edge of the shirt upwards by about 1/2 inch (1.27 centimetres). This will create the inside of your hem. After this fold, your shirt should be the exact length you want it to be.
• Press the hem with an iron: Use an iron to press the hem flat. Be sure to use a heat setting that is safe for the fabric of your T-shirt. This step will give your shirt a crisp edge along the bottom.
• Secure the hem with sewing pins: Before you start sewing, secure the hem in place with sewing pins. This will hold the fabric in place and make it easier to sew.
• Sew the hem: Using a sewing machine or sewing by hand, sew the hem in place. Use a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch, and try to sew as close to the raw edge as possible. Remove the pins as you sew, and use a thread colour that matches your T-shirt. For a more professional finish, you can use a double-pointed needle or sew a second line right beneath the first one.
• Finish the hem: After sewing, snip off any excess or loose threads. Your T-shirt is now ready to wear!

Additionally, here are some extra tips for sewing the hem:

• Practice first: If you're using a twin needle or a new stitch, it's a good idea to practice on some old T-shirts first. This will help you get a feel for the technique and ensure that you're comfortable with the process before working on the actual shirt.
• Use double-sided sticky tape: T-shirt fabric can stretch or become wavy if not handled properly. To prevent this, you can use double-sided sticky tape made for sewing. This tape will help temporarily secure the hem and prevent it from stretching out.
• Lower the presser foot pressure: If your sewing machine allows you to adjust the presser foot pressure, consider lowering it. This can help you better handle stretchy T-shirt fabric.
• Use a steam iron: Give each seam a good press with a steam iron to help set the hem in place.
• Start sewing at the side seam: To better conceal the start and end of your sewing, try to begin sewing at one of the side seams of the T-shirt.

Frequently asked questions