Tailoring Tricks: Sports Coat Shoulder Fix

It is possible to alter the shoulders of a sports coat, but it is a complex procedure that will require the expertise of a skilled tailor. The process involves reshaping the jacket's structure, which may include removing the sleeves and lining, recutting the front and back panels, and reconstructing the elaborate details such as the lining, canvas, padding, and pockets. The cost of such alterations can be high, and the results may vary. It is generally recommended to opt for a jacket that fits well in the shoulders rather than attempting to alter them.

Shoulder divots

To avoid shoulder divots, it is important to try on jackets from different brands and find one that fits well on the shoulders. A good tailor can also help by altering the shoulder padding or performing more extensive alterations to the jacket shoulders and armholes. However, this can be challenging and expensive, and it is better to avoid jackets that cause shoulder divots in the first place.

When buying a suit jacket or sport coat, ensure that the shoulders hit at the point where your shoulders and arms meet. This will help to ensure a divot-free look. Trying on multiple jackets and seeking the advice of knowledgeable salespeople or tailors can help you find a suit that fits well and flatters your body type.

Shoulder width

The shoulders of a jacket should highlight your natural silhouette with smooth, uninterrupted lines and a clean drape throughout the upper chest, upper sleeves, sleeve head, and shoulders. The jacket's shoulder width should be slightly wider than your shoulder bones by approximately 0.5 inches (0.25 inches on each side). The shoulder seams should meet the top of the sleeves without any wrinkles, divots, tension, or pulling.

If the shoulder width is too narrow, the fabric will be pulled tight across the upper arms. This tension will cause the sleeve heads to be pulled too close to the body, which will distort the shoulder fit. If the shoulder width is too wide, the shoulders will be exaggerated and sag noticeably. You may see wrinkles running from under the jacket lapel to the shoulder edge and a bulge of excess fabric that creates a dimple at the top of the sleeves.

Adjusting the shoulder width of a jacket is not an easy task and often requires changes to numerous other parts of the garment. However, it is possible to adjust the shoulder width of a jacket, and it has been done successfully in the past. It is considered a complex alteration and can be expensive, so be sure to get a quote from your tailor before proceeding.

Shoulder padding

The shoulders of a sports coat can be altered by a tailor, although this is considered to be a risky procedure. It may be necessary to go up a size to accommodate the shoulders, which can then be taken in at the body to achieve the correct fit.

There are several types of shoulder padding, from heavily padded to light or even non-existent. Heavy shoulder padding can create a strong shoulder line, accommodate wider lapels, and accentuate a slim waist. However, it is not very popular at the moment and is considered quite formal. Light shoulder padding, on the other hand, can create a clean and precise shoulder line without adding bulk. This style is more contemporary and can be worn casually or formally.

Unstructured blazers have a natural sleeve head and no shoulder pads, which creates a timeless and casual sports jacket. This style is ideal for warmer months and outdoor events.

The Neapolitan shoulder style, for example, is characterised by puckering or slight shirring of the sleeve cap's fabric. This construction is designed to drape naturally over the shoulders without altering the shoulder line.

The Continental shoulder is lightly padded and follows a straight line from the collar to the edge of the shoulders, with a medium amount of roping. This style is sufficiently formal for the office but does not overpower the wearer.

The Structured or English shoulder is the most formal, with large padding and significant canvassing, creating an almost martial appearance.

The choice of shoulder padding depends on the desired level of formality and the wearer's physique.

Sleeve pitch

To determine if your sleeves are hanging correctly, put on your jacket and stand sideways in front of a mirror. If there is any gathering of fabric at the front or back of the sleeves, it indicates that the sleeve pitch is incorrect. A low sleeve pitch suits individuals with excellent posture, where the shoulders are dropped in a low, backward position. On the other hand, a high sleeve pitch is suitable for those with a forward-curved posture, where the shoulders curve forward and are positioned slightly higher.

Military personnel, for example, often require a low sleeve pitch due to their erect stance, while older individuals may need a higher pitch to accommodate a stooped posture. Interestingly, tailors have observed that younger people are also exhibiting curved shoulders, possibly due to prolonged hours spent in front of a computer.

Correcting sleeve pitch can be done by a skilled tailor, who can remove and rotate the sleeves to match the wearer's neutral arm position and natural posture. However, it is important to note that sleeve pitch issues are less common than other fit problems, such as a jacket being too baggy or too slim. Nevertheless, paying attention to sleeve pitch can help ensure a well-fitted jacket that hangs smoothly and harmoniously.

Suit jacket structure

Suit jackets are complex garments with many component parts. Each aspect of a suit's design adds something to how it looks on the wearer.

The body of a suit jacket refers to the part that covers the torso. Each jacket is made of singular pieces, and these elements come together to form the suit jacket as a whole. Each section of the suit jacket influences how the entire jacket fits together and sits on the wearer. Therefore, changing even one of these sections can alter the cut and style of the jacket.

The chest area of a suit jacket is called the drape. Slim-cut suits have a smaller drape. The chest of the suit jacket usually has darts, which are seams down the centre of the top front of the jacket. Darts provide shaping to the jacket as well as a tailored appearance. They also take in some of the fabric so the jacket doesn't look boxy.

The suit jacket quarters are the two flaps in the front that meet at the waist button along the bottom half of the jacket. The interior seams can be cut so that the edge is a vertical line straight down, in a style known as closed quarters. They can also have rounded corners, creating a curved, wide opening, in a style called cutaway or flyaway.

Vents are the vertical cup openings on the back of a suit jacket. They help move the bottom of the jacket aside when sitting, keeping it free from creasing. A single vent is relatively informal and not a classy style. A double vent, on the other hand, is located on each side of the suit jacket, just off-centre in the back. This style is more professional and classy.

Suit jackets have a variety of shoulder styles. A structured shoulder is created by adding padding. Unstructured blazers have no padding. An extended shoulder is when the fabric reaches past the wearer's natural shoulder bone. It requires some padding to structure the shoulder so that it doesn't droop. Roping shoulders are created when the sleeve seam is attached further up the shoulder than usual, resulting in a slightly rolled look along the seam. Pagoda shoulders happen when the shoulders of the suit jacket create a slope down from the collar and back up again at the seam.

Suit jackets can also have natural or soft shoulders, with no shaping or padding. It's important that the shoulders fit well. If the sizing of the shoulders is incorrect, the entire jacket will appear either too small or oversized. The same can be said for the armhole. A smaller opening gives the suit jacket a slimmer cut. A wider armhole opening makes the jacket more loose.

The waist drop of a suit jacket refers to the difference between the chest and waist measurements. It defines how narrow the waist of the suit jacket is. A larger drop ensures a slimmer-fitting suit.

Suit jackets have two kinds of pockets: breast pockets and larger pockets. The breast pocket is located on the chest and can have a straight or curved edge. It is usually on the left side but can be on either side. The larger pockets can be patch pockets, flap pockets, or jetted pockets. Patch pockets are sewn onto the outside of the suit and signal a more casual look. Flap pockets have an extra layer of material covering the pocket's opening, giving them a bulky, casual appearance. Jetted pockets are formal and consist of a slit opening in the fabric with no covering flap.

Suit jackets also have lapels, which are flaps of fabric on each side of the suit jacket immediately below the collar and folded back. There are three styles of lapels: notch, peak, and shawl. Notch lapels are standard and casual, peak lapels are formal, and shawl lapels are rounded and typically found on tuxedos. Lapels can be skinny or wide, with wider lapels making the wearer's shoulders seem less wide.

The gorge is where the lapel fabric attaches to the collar. Its shape, width, and placement can vary. The gorge should line up with the wearer's shoulder.

Suit jackets also have sleeve cuffs with buttons. Typically, there are four buttons near the cuff, but summer jackets may have three.

Frequently asked questions