Buttoning Your Sport Coat: The Right Way

Whether you should button a sports coat depends on the situation and your personal preference. While some people believe that wearing a sports coat unbuttoned is the hallmark of a sloppy dresser, others believe that it is a more casual look.

If you want to give off a more formal impression, you should button your sports coat. However, if you are sitting down, you should unbutton your sports coat to avoid creasing or straining the fabric.

Single-breasted jackets are usually unbuttoned when sitting down

The rules for buttoning a single-breasted jacket are more relaxed than for a double-breasted jacket, as the single-breasted style is more casual. However, the way a jacket is cut and made presumes that it will be buttoned, and the jacket will look better when buttoned, with a cleaner silhouette. The button serves as a fulcrum, from which the lapels run upwards towards the shoulders, emphasising width at the top and slimness in the middle. The lapels also frame the shirt, reinforcing the V-shape of the chest, and hide the often puffy shirt, creating an uninterrupted line from the waist down through long, straight legs.

When wearing a single-breasted jacket, the bottom button should never be fastened. This is because modern manufacturers cut suits so that the fabric does not drape properly when the bottom button is buttoned. The top button on a two-button jacket should always be buttoned when standing, and the jacket should be unbuttoned when sitting down. For a three-button jacket, the middle button should always be buttoned when standing, and the top and bottom buttons are optional.

The bottom button of a jacket is often left unbuttoned

While the tradition of leaving the bottom button undone is well-established, it is not always strictly adhered to. Some people may choose to button all the buttons on their jacket for a more formal or polished look. Additionally, there may be exceptions for very tall men or those with longer lapels, who may need to use the lower button to keep the jacket from spreading out above the waist. Ultimately, the decision of whether to button or unbutton the bottom of a jacket can depend on personal preference, comfort, and the specific situation or event.

It is worth noting that the rules for buttoning a jacket may vary depending on the type of jacket and the number of buttons it has. For example, a double-breasted jacket is typically buttoned differently than a single-breasted jacket, and a three-button jacket follows the "sometimes, always, never" rule, where the top button is sometimes buttoned, the middle button is always buttoned, and the bottom button is never buttoned.

Buttoning a jacket can convey a sense of authority

The way a jacket is buttoned is designed to complement the cut and shape of the jacket. The button acts as a fulcrum, from which the fronts flow downwards around the hips, and the lapels run upwards towards the shoulders, emphasising width at the top and slimness in the middle. The lapels also frame the shirt, reinforcing the V-shape of the chest. They hide the often puffy shirt, creating an uninterrupted line from the waist down through long, straight legs.

A buttoned jacket, when standing, cuts a cleaner silhouette. It sends a signal that you pay attention to the details. The vast majority of men who violate these rules do so because they do not wear a suit regularly. These small rules are used by “those in the know” to identify other men “in the know”.

However, there are obvious arguments against buttoning a jacket. When you sit down, you undo a single-breasted jacket. If you are uncomfortably full after a large meal, you undo it. If you are too hot, it is better to unbutton your jacket than faint on the sidewalk. Comfort is key. If buttoning your jacket makes you uncomfortable, it is a good argument to leave it unbuttoned.

Jackets are designed to be worn buttoned, and will drape better when buttoned

Jackets are designed to be buttoned, and will drape better when buttoned. The shape of the jacket is carefully designed to make the wearer look good, on the basis that the waist button is fastened. The button acts as a fulcrum, from which the fronts flow downwards around the hips, and the lapels run upwards towards the shoulders, emphasising width at the top and slimness in the middle. The lapels also frame the shirt, reinforcing the V-shape of the chest, and hide the often puffy shirt, creating an uninterrupted line from the waist down through long, straight legs.

Once the jacket is unbuttoned, a lot of this falls away. The jacket flaps open, and the carefully sculpted shape, particularly in the bottom half, is lost. However, there are times when it is acceptable to leave your jacket unbuttoned. For instance, at social gatherings or informal meetings, you can opt to keep your jacket unbuttoned to convey a relaxed yet refined style.

Sports jackets and blazers can have a different fit, and the rules around these garments are often more relaxed

Sports jackets and blazers can differ in fit and style, and the rules around these garments are often more relaxed.

Sports jackets, blazers, and suit jackets are distinct pieces with unique characteristics. While blazers are versatile and adaptable, suit jackets are more formal and structured. Sports jackets, on the other hand, embrace a relaxed elegance with textured fabrics and diverse patterns.

The rules for wearing these jackets are generally more flexible for sports jackets and blazers compared to suit jackets. Suit jackets are typically designed to be worn with matching trousers and are considered the most formal option. They are closely fitted and not meant for layering, resulting in a polished and refined appearance.

In contrast, blazers offer versatility and can be dressed up or down. They come in bold colours and structured designs, often featuring brass buttons and sharp lapels. Blazers can be paired with various trousers, from dress trousers to jeans, and are suitable for formal events and smart-casual gatherings.

Sports jackets, also known as sports coats, were originally created for gentlemen's sports, resulting in a looser fit that accommodates layering. They feature textured fabrics like tweed, corduroy, or flannel and are commonly seen with patterns such as houndstooth or checks. Sports jackets are ideal for casual outings and events with a relaxed dress code, and they can be styled with different types of trousers and shoes to create a stylish, refined look.

While the rules for sports jackets and blazers are more relaxed, it is important to consider the occasion and dress code when choosing which jacket to wear. Blazers are perfect for formal events, business meetings, or dinners, while sports jackets are excellent for casual outings and relaxed gatherings. Ultimately, the choice depends on personal style and the desired level of formality.

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