Tailoring Tricks: Sport Coat Back Cut

do you cut the back of a sport coat

When you buy a new sport coat, there are a few things you need to do to prepare it to be worn. Firstly, it's important to remove the white stitching on the jacket's shoulders, which is a tradition that shows the jacket has been crafted with care. You should also remove the X-shaped tacking stitch that holds the vent together, as this is designed to prevent the coat from wrinkling during shipping and storage. Leaving this stitch on can affect the coat's fit and fall. Additionally, make sure to remove the brand tag from the sleeve, as it is not meant to be a design element. Lastly, you may want to unstitch the pockets, although some people prefer to leave them sewn shut to maintain the shape of the jacket.


Removing the tack stitch from the vent

When you buy a new sport coat, you'll likely find an X-shaped tack stitch holding the vent together. This stitch is crucial in preserving the coat's shape and preventing wrinkles during shipping and while the coat sits on the rack in a store. However, once you've purchased the coat, the tack stitch is no longer necessary and can even hinder your comfort and style.

The tack stitch on the vent of your sport coat is designed to be removed, so you can safely cut it without causing any damage. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to remove the tack stitch from the vent of your sport coat:

  • Locate the "X"-shaped tack stitch on the vent of your sport coat. It will be at the back of the coat, above the buttocks.
  • Take a pair of small scissors. You can also use a seam ripper if you have one.
  • Carefully snip the tack stitch close to the fabric of the coat. Be gentle to avoid accidentally cutting the coat's fabric.
  • Once cut, gently pull out the thread. You can use your fingers to slowly tug at the thread, or you may find it easier to use the tip of the scissors to help guide the thread out.
  • Check that all the thread has been removed. Sometimes, a small amount of thread may remain, so be sure to check carefully.
  • Try on your sport coat! With the tack stitch removed, the vent will be open, allowing for a better fit and preserving the intended lines of the garment.

Remember, removing the tack stitch is a simple process, but it makes a significant difference in the overall appearance and comfort of your sport coat. It is one of the final steps in preparing your new coat to be worn and will ensure that it hangs and moves with you just right.


Removing the shoulder stitching

When you buy a new sport coat, there is often white stitching on the jacket's shoulders. This is a form of tradition, showing that the jacket has been completed with care and by hand. Even suits made on a factory production line are finished with this type of stitching. This stitching is purely decorative and needs to be removed before wearing the jacket.

The shoulder stitching is usually made with a white basting stitch, which can be easily removed by tugging and breaking it off. If there are still some threads left in the jacket, find the end of the knot and pull out the rest of the string. Try to only use blunt-ended scissors if needed.

To remove the shoulder stitching without damaging the fabric, slowly cut through the middle of a stitch and then pull the remaining thread away gently with your fingers. Do not rip out the stitches, as this may damage the surrounding fabric.

In addition to the shoulder stitching, there are a few other types of stitching and labels that need to be removed from a new sport coat. These include the "X" shaped stitching on the vent, the brand tag on the sleeve, and the stitching on the pockets.

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Removing the brand tag

Firstly, assess the type of label you are dealing with. Labels are made of diverse materials and sewn into clothing in a variety of ways. The label on your sport coat is likely to be a small tag on the sleeve with the brand name printed on it. It could be held by plastic tags or hand-stitched with cotton threads.

If the label is held by plastic tags, carefully cut the tag as close to the seam as possible. Be cautious not to cut into the seam of your sport coat. A small strip of the label will remain, stitched into the seam. This method is also suitable if you want to remove the tag but it shares a seam with the garment, as cutting the label could cause the whole item to unravel.

If the label is hand-stitched, you can use a seam ripper or small scissors to carefully remove the tag. Start by gently pushing the tip of the seam ripper or small scissors under one stitch at the top right corner of the label. Make sure the tool is resting on top of the label rather than underneath it. Gently pull up, and the thread should cut easily. Continue this process, moving from right to left, until all the stitching is removed. Be very gentle to avoid damaging your sport coat.

Once the label is removed, use tweezers to pull out any remaining loose threads.

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Unstitching the pockets

When you buy a new sport coat, the pockets are often stitched shut. This is done to maintain the coat's shape and to prevent damage during the shipping and sales process. However, it is generally recommended that you unstitch the pockets before wearing the coat.

Before unstitching the pockets, it is important to determine whether they are real or fake. Real pockets are often sewn shut with loose, easy-to-remove stitches, which may be long, loose, and clearly visible, or in a contrasting colour. Manufacturers may also indicate the presence of real pockets by leaving open space at either end of the stitched-up pocket, just enough to slip a finger through. If you are unsure, you can check for the presence of a pocket lining by flipping the coat inside out.

If you have determined that the pockets are real, you can proceed to unstitch them. Here is a step-by-step guide:

  • Gather the necessary tools: a seam ripper or small, pointed scissors, and good lighting to see what you are doing.
  • Gently pull at the pocket area to identify the threads that are holding the two sides together and need to be removed.
  • Locate a thread that can be easily snipped without damaging the fabric. This can be in the middle of the pocket, as long as it is easy to access.
  • Using your seam ripper or pointed scissors, carefully snip the single thread.
  • With your fingers, gently tug the pocket open to loosen more threads. If the threads are long and loose, you may be able to tug the pocket completely open at this point.
  • When you meet resistance, snip another thread and gently tug the pocket open until it is fully open.
  • Clean up any leftover loose and snipped threads by gently pulling them away from the pocket area.
  • Feel around inside the pocket to ensure there are no loose threads, holes, or damage.

Now you can use your newly opened pockets! Just be sure to avoid carrying anything heavy in them, as this can affect the shape of your coat.

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Removing the collar gap

A collar gap can be caused by a few different issues. It could be that the jacket's shoulders are more sloped than your own, or that the chest is too tight. It could also be that your posture is more stooped than the jacket allows. The collar gap could also be caused by the jacket being too small in the chest, or too short in length.

If the collar gap is caused by the jacket's shoulders being more sloped than your own, a tailor may be able to square up the shoulders. However, this is a complicated issue, and there is only so much that can be done before other problems are caused. If the back of the jacket needs to be shifted, the tailor will be limited by how much extra cloth is available at the hem.

If the collar gap is caused by the jacket being too small in the chest, a tailor may be able to suppress the sides.

If the collar gap is caused by the jacket being too short, a tailor can lengthen the coat, and this will likely solve the issue. Even if the sleeves then feel long, this is an easy fix and will improve the collar issue.

If the collar gap is caused by your posture, you may be able to fix it by lifting your shoulders and then pulling the coat tails as you drop your shoulders to "seat" the jacket.

If the collar gap is caused by the jacket's collar being too long, a tailor can shorten the collar. This is a relatively straightforward correction, but it can also be an expensive alteration. The tailor will need to separate the collar from the lapel, shorten the collar, and then reattach it to the lapel.

If you are experiencing a collar gap, it is recommended to try on jackets from different brands, as some brands may be more suited to your body shape than others.

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Frequently asked questions

The "'X'-shaped tacking stitch on the back of a sport coat is used to keep the coat from being pulled out of shape and getting wrinkled during shipping and while sitting on the racks in stores. It is meant to be removed before wearing.

Use a pair of small scissors to carefully cut the thread and then pull out the rest of the string. Be sure to use blunt-ended scissors if needed and avoid ripping out the stitches to prevent damaging the surrounding fabric.

Yes, there is usually white stitching on the jacket's shoulders, the vents are sewn closed, and the pockets are stitched shut. All of these stitches are decorative and need to be removed before wearing.

The tacking stitch on the back of the sport coat helps to preserve the shape of the garment during shipping and storage. However, leaving it on can affect the coat's fit and fall on your body, so it is recommended to remove it before wearing.

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  • Byeon
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