Sports Coat Buttons: One Or Two?

The number of buttons on a sports coat or suit jacket can vary, with one, two, three, or even four buttons being common. The international standard for decades has been the two-button jacket, which is considered flattering for most body types. The three-button jacket is another classic option, though it fell out of fashion in the 1990s. One-button jackets, meanwhile, are considered to be more casual and were particularly popular in the 1960s.

Single-breasted sports coats have one column of buttons

The number of buttons on a single-breasted sports coat can vary, and each style has its own set of buttoning rules. A one-button jacket, for instance, should always be buttoned when standing and unbuttoned when sitting down. On the other hand, a two-button jacket typically involves fastening the top button and leaving the lower one undone, both when standing and sitting. As for a three-button jacket, the top button is optional, the middle button is always fastened, and the bottom button is never buttoned.

The rules for buttoning a sports coat or a suit jacket may seem arbitrary, but they serve a functional purpose. Buttoning the jacket correctly helps the fabric drape properly, creating a cleaner silhouette. It also prevents the suit from creasing and adds comfort when sitting down.

In addition to the number of buttons, the placement of buttons on a sports coat can also vary. For example, the two-button jacket has a deeper V shape due to the lower button placement, which creates longer lapels. This style is particularly flattering for taller individuals as it makes the wearer appear even taller. On the other hand, a three-button jacket has shorter lapels and a shallower V shape. This style is better suited for those with athletic builds or taller and thinner frames.

The rules for buttoning a two-button jacket

Firstly, it is important to note that the top button is the only one that should be fastened. The two-button jacket should never have both buttons fastened. The bottom button should always be left open. This is because the jacket is designed to be worn this way, and buttoning the bottom button will throw off the silhouette, making the jacket look too small and the wearer appear less stylish.

Secondly, the top button should always be buttoned when standing. It is important to unbutton the jacket when sitting down to avoid creases and keep the jacket from stretching and bunching around the midsection. This rule applies to all single-breasted jackets, regardless of the number of buttons.

There are, however, a few exceptions to the rules. For instance, very tall men may need to use the lower button to prevent the jacket from spreading above their waist and exposing their trouser front. Additionally, men who prefer a longer lapel may opt to button the lower button and fold the lapel down.

While these are the general rules for buttoning a two-button jacket, it is worth noting that sports jackets or blazers are more casual and, therefore, the rules are more relaxed.

The rules for buttoning a three-button jacket

You should undo all buttons when seated to avoid creasing or straining the buttons. This rule also applies to jackets with fewer buttons.

The three-button rule is important because it helps to protect your buttons. When all buttons are fastened, tension will build, and buttons may pop off. It also ensures your jacket drapes properly and doesn't bunch up around the midsection, which would throw off your whole look.

The three-button rule also applies to double-breasted jackets. These jackets should always be buttoned, and you should button all the buttons that have working buttonholes.

The number of buttons on a sports coat sleeve

The number of buttons on the sleeve cuff of a sports coat is largely a matter of personal preference. While some sources claim that the number of buttons can range from one to five, most people opt for three or four buttons. Two buttons are best suited for "sacks", a type of jacket with a looser fit, while one button cuffs are considered more casual and are rarely seen outside of vintage clothing.

The number of buttons can also indicate the formality of the jacket, with a greater number of buttons indicating a more formal garment. For example, a tweed jacket, which is less formal, might have only two buttons, or even one in some cases. On the other hand, a suit, which is more formal, will typically have three or four buttons.

In terms of geographical differences, jackets in the US tend to have four buttons, whereas those in the UK tend to have three.

The history of the 'never button the bottom button' rule

The "never button the bottom button" rule has been around for over a hundred years, and it all started with a certain English king's love for food.

King Edward VII of England, who reigned in the early 20th century, was rather rotund and had a famous appetite. Legend has it that he grew too large for his suits and had to stop using the bottom button, and so a trend was born. Courtiers, out of sympathy or a desire to emulate the king, followed suit, and soon the trend of keeping the bottom button undone became standard in England and spread throughout the rest of Great Britain.

Suit manufacturers quickly caught on and changed the way they designed jackets, cutting them in a way that made the bottom button look better left open. Fastening the bottom button on a modern suit can make it look restrictive and ill-fitting, throwing your silhouette out of proportion. The rule has persisted to this day, with modern suits tailored with the expectation that the last button will be left unbuttoned.

While the tradition may have started with King Edward VII, it's worth noting that there are other theories as to why this rule came about. One theory suggests that it was influenced by dandies who wanted to show off multiple layers of clothing. Another idea is that it was related to the comfort of horse riding, as the cutaway design below the waist in modern suits may have originated from the need for unrestricted movement while riding.

So, the next time you don a suit, remember to leave that bottom button unfastened! It's a simple rule to follow but one that can make all the difference in ensuring your suit drapes properly and gives a polished look.

Frequently asked questions