Custom-Made Sports Coats: Elevate Your Style

A sports coat is a versatile garment that can be dressed up or down, making it an excellent addition to any wardrobe. Sports coats are typically made from wool, flannel, corduroy, cotton, or linen and can be solid-coloured or patterned. They are often confused with blazers, but sports coats are less structured and more casual, making them perfect for occasions where you want to look good without being too formal.

When having a sports coat made for you, it's important to consider the fit, weight, fabric, and style. You'll want to ensure the coat is tailored to your body for a polished look. As sports coats are typically worn in cooler weather, choosing a lightweight fabric like cotton for the summertime and wool for the winter can help you stay comfortable. You can also choose from various styles, such as the hacking jacket, the Norfolk jacket, or the safari jacket, each with its unique features and formality level.

So, whether you're attending a formal event or just running errands, a well-made sports coat will elevate your look and keep you feeling confident and stylish.

Choosing the right weight for the season

When choosing a sports coat, it's important to select the right weight for the season. Sports coats come in a variety of fabrics, including wool, linen, cotton, suede, denim, leather, and tweed. Lighter fabrics such as cotton and linen are ideal for spring and summer, while heavier fabrics like wool are more suitable for fall and winter.

For example, a cotton sports coat is a good choice for the summertime as it breathes well and helps keep you cool. In contrast, a wool jacket is perfect for winter as it retains heat and often eliminates the need for an overcoat.

Additionally, the lining of a sports coat can affect its warmth. Unlined or half-lined sports coats are suitable for those who tend to overheat, while fully-lined coats provide extra warmth.

When selecting a sports coat, it's also worth considering the vents, which are the open seams in the back or sides of the jacket. Side vents are popular in Europe and offer a modern look, while back vents are more traditional and comfortable.

Selecting the right fabric weave

The weave of a sports coat is extremely important because a tightly woven fabric restricts airflow, whereas an open-weave fabric makes you feel every little breeze. Therefore, take a close look at the weave. Hold the fabric up to the light, and you will see how open or closed it is. You can almost see through a very open-weave fabric, whereas a tightly woven fabric doesn’t allow you to see much.

When selecting a sports coat fabric, you will also want to consider the season. For colder weather, wool or tweed sports coats are perfect. For warmer weather, cotton or linen sports coats are a great option.

If you are selecting a fabric for a summer sports coat, you will want to consider the nature of worsted cloth itself. Fabric comes in two types: worsted and woollen. Combing wool is exactly what it sounds like. Before spinning yarn, a maker will comb out the fleece to set the hairs parallel to each other and remove any shorter fibres that would spoil the regularity characteristic of worsted. After the wool has been combed, it’s spun into yarn and then woven into a fabric. And by combing the hairs first, the resulting material will feel a bit smoother and crisper. On the other hand, woollens aren’t put through this preparation process. Thus, the fabric is spongier and loftier, as the wool fibres point in every possible direction. To give examples, wool gabardine is worsted, while tweed is typically woollen.

Summer fabrics are typically worsted because they don’t have the fuzzy nap that would otherwise trap heat. Worsted yarns can also be used to make lighter-weight materials, helpful for summer. The downside is that worsted patterns tend to be sharper and crisper, sometimes making them not very appealing. When you have a fuzzy fabric, you can hide the sharpness of the lines, sort of like how chalkstripe (typically a woollen) looks softer and more approachable than pinstripe (typically a worsted). This is why a lot of summer tailoring is more often about big, blocky colours, as sharply defined patterns can look dizzying in the muggy heat.

If breathability is a strong concern, make sure your summer sports coat is softly tailored. A lightweight sports coat made with a single layer of canvas inside will be more breathable than one made from multiple layers of haircloth, canvas, felt, and other materials.

If you are selecting a fabric for a winter sports coat, you will want to consider the weight of the fabric. A thin sports coat won’t look right when paired with thicker, chunkier trousers, sweaters, scarves, etc. So, while you can skip this suggestion if you live in a temperate or consistently warm climate, if you live someplace where the temperature gets chilly, it’s a good idea to invest in a thick, textured, wintertime sports coat.

Here I’m talking about jackets made with a fabric like tweed or corduroy. Fabrics with substance, warmth, and texture. You can do some interesting patterns here – checks, stripes, plaid – but as most guys have trouble even figuring out what to wear with a solid-coloured coat, I’d recommend getting just that, or something with a very subtle, minimal pattern (herringbone is a safe way to add visual interest while keeping things simple). Brown or grey in colour. Coats in this kind of straightforward style will go with the most things in your wardrobe and be easiest to wear.

Selecting the right lining

When selecting the right lining for your sports coat, there are a few things to consider. Firstly, the purpose of a lining is to make your garment more wearable, long-lasting, and comfortable. Linings can also add weight and structure to the coat, making it drape better and reducing the possibility of the fabric bunching up. With that in mind, here are some factors to consider when choosing the lining for your sports coat:

• Climate: Consider the climate you will be wearing the sports coat in. If you tend to overheat, an unlined or half-lined coat might be a better option to keep you cool. For colder climates, a full lining will add warmth and make the coat more suitable for winter.
• Fabric: The fabric of the lining is important, as it will affect the breathability, durability, and price of the coat. Natural fibres such as silk, viscose, and rayon are popular choices, with silk being a good option for a lightweight and breathable lining. Synthetic fibres like acetate are also commonly used and are more affordable, with Bemberg being a well-known and dependable material. Cupro, a man-made fibre derived from cotton, is another popular choice as it is static-resistant, affordable, and breathable.
• Colour and Pattern: The colour and pattern of the lining can be chosen to match your personal style and the intended use of the coat. A tone-on-tone lining, where the lining is the same colour as the coat, is a versatile and timeless option. For something bolder, you can choose a contrasting or complementary colour, or a statement pattern such as a bold plaid or gingham. If you want to add a unique touch, you can even go for a fully custom lining with a picture or design of your choice.
• Stretch: Another factor to consider is the stretch of the lining. If the sports coat is made with elastic materials, it is important to choose a stretchy lining as well. This will ensure that the lining moves with the coat and doesn't restrict your movement.

Selecting the right interlining

When selecting the right interlining for a sports coat, there are several factors to consider. Firstly, understand the purpose of interlining, which is to provide structure, support, and shape to the coat. It is a hidden layer between the outer fabric and the lining, enhancing the overall appearance and functionality of the coat. With that in mind, let's delve into the key considerations for choosing the right interlining.

Type of Interlining Material

Interlining materials vary, offering different characteristics. Cotton interlining, for instance, provides breathability, softness, and good moisture absorption, making it suitable for lightweight to medium-weight fabrics. On the other hand, synthetic interlining materials like polyester or nylon offer durability, shape retention, and affordability. They are often used in heavy or structured garments like jackets and coats. Additionally, fusible interlining, also known as iron-on interlining, offers convenience and excellent stability, making it a common choice for areas that require reinforcement.

Fabric Type and Weight

The type and weight of the fabric used for the sports coat will influence the choice of interlining. Lighter fabrics may require a lightweight interlining, while heavier fabrics might need a sturdier option to maintain the desired shape. Consider the drape and weight of the fabric to make an informed decision.

Climate and Season

Consider the climate and season in which the sports coat will be worn. For warmer climates, choose interlinings that allow breathability and have moisture-wicking properties. In contrast, for colder climates, opt for interlinings that provide insulation and warmth, such as flannel or Thinsulate.

Durability and Washing Requirements

Evaluate the durability and washing requirements of the interlining. Choose an interlining that can withstand frequent washing, ironing, and dry cleaning without losing its shape or adhesive properties. Look for options that are shrink-resistant and offer good stability over time.

Expert Recommendations

Don't hesitate to seek advice from experienced tailors or professionals with expertise in interlining selection. They can provide valuable insights and recommendations based on their knowledge and experience, ensuring you make an informed decision.

By considering these factors and evaluating different interlining options, you can select the most suitable interlining for your sports coat, ensuring optimal comfort, functionality, and a polished appearance.

Choosing a bold pattern

If you want to go bolder, a classic option is a blue and brown plaid pattern. This combination of colours is timeless and will never go out of style. It's a safe choice as these are classic menswear colours, and you can pair the jacket with a blue shirt to create a tonal look. This option is also versatile and can be worn to the office, client meetings, dinners, or even weddings.

For something a little more fashion-forward, consider a teal windowpane sport jacket. Teal is just another shade of blue, so it's not too out there, but it will add a pop of colour to your wardrobe. Look for a subtle plaid pattern throughout the jacket to add a bit of interest. This option is perfect for those who want to step out of their comfort zone without going too crazy.

If you're feeling adventurous, a berry-coloured sport coat with a blue plaid pattern is a fun choice. This option is definitely louder, but it's a great way to add some colour and personality to your wardrobe. It's perfect for a night out with friends or a casual Friday at the office. Just avoid wearing it to conservative meetings or court appearances!

When choosing a bold pattern, it's important to keep the rest of your outfit more subtle so that the jacket can be the focal piece. Pair your bold sport coat with a solid or tonal shirt, jeans, or trousers in complementary colours. Remember, life's too short to wear the same old boring blue jacket!

Frequently asked questions