Creating T-Shirt Collars: A Step-By-Step Guide To Success

Sewing a T-shirt collar can be a challenging task, but with the right tools and techniques, it can be a rewarding experience. The process involves several steps, from choosing the right fabric and pattern to cutting, stitching, and attaching the collar to the shirt. One crucial aspect is to select a collar style that complements your face shape. Additionally, precise cutting and transferring pattern markings are essential for a well-fitted collar. Interfacing plays a vital role in achieving the desired collar stiffness, ranging from soft to crisp. When sewing, it's important to use the right stitches, such as straight or zigzag stitches, and to pay attention to details like notches and seam allowances. With careful measurements, trimming, and pressing, you can create a collar that sits comfortably around your neck.

Cutting out the collar pieces

Collars come in different shapes and sizes, and they are usually integrated into the design of a shirt or dress rather than added on later. To get the best results, work from a sewing pattern that includes a collar in the design and follow the pattern’s instructions for how to cut, sew, and attach the collar. For example, you could go with a collar that has long, pointed lapels, or opt for a curved collar for something more delicate.

If you are new to sewing collars, choose a pattern labelled “easy” or “beginner”. Avoid "intermediate" and "advanced" patterns since these will be much more complicated.

Your sewing pattern should indicate what type of fabric you will need for the collar and specify if a special type of fabric is recommended. However, you can choose the colour of the fabric that you want to make your collar. Use the same colour fabric as the rest of the shirt if you want the collar to blend in, or opt for a contrasting colour for a collar that will stand out.

Make sure to pre-wash and dry your fabric for the collar. Otherwise, the fabric might shrink after you wash the shirt for the first time, and this could cause your shirt to become misshapen.

Use the paper pattern included with your pattern to cut out the collar pieces. Cut out the paper pattern pieces that you will need to make your collar. Then, fold your fabric in half and smooth it out. Lay the paper pieces on your fabric and pin them in place. Cut the fabric along the edges of the paper pattern pieces using a pair of sharp fabric scissors. Then, place the paper pattern on your interfacing and cut out one piece of interfacing for the collar.

Be sure to cut around any notches that are included in the pattern pieces. These will help you line up the collar with the neckline later on. Go slowly and make sure not to create any jagged edges in the fabric.

Interfacing

After you finish cutting out the fabric pattern pieces, place one of the collar pieces wrong-side up on a flat surface, such as an ironing board or a towel on a countertop. Then, place the interfacing on top of the fabric piece. Lay the interfacing so that the adhesive side is facing down. Place a towel or t-shirt over the interfacing and iron over the interfacing and fabric to connect them.

Check the instructions included with the interfacing to determine if you need to do anything special. For example, you might need to press on the interfacing and fabric for 5 seconds to ensure that they are connected.

Collar Stand

One thing that’s different about this method is that we make the collar first, before sewing the collar stand. We don’t make a collar+stand unit and attach that to the neckline either. Instead, we make the collar, then attach the stand to the shirt, then insert the collar into the stand.

So that’s what we’re doing: preparing the collar only. Start with your collar piece in the main fabric, and one shirt collar piece cut from interfacing. Then draw in the seam allowances along the short edges and long, top edge. (Basically, the three edges that are not the neck edge.) Then trim off the seam allowances from the interfacing piece only.

Lay the interfacing on top of one collar piece, with the interfacing against the wrong side of the collar. Now is a good time to check the edges of your interfacing, and make sure it’s exactly 5/8″ (1.5 cm) smaller than the collar piece. I trimmed parts of mine where it extended too far into the seam allowance.

Gluing and Sewing

Now it’s time to glue-baste! Glue the interfacing to the collar piece. I started at one end and worked my way across to the other side.

Now take the other collar piece cut from fabric. This is where things get interesting, we’ll trim 1/4″ (6 mm) from each side of the uninterfaced collar. You can only see one side in this photo but make sure you do it to both ends.

Line up the collar and undercollar, right sides together, starting by matching the points in the middle. You can see that the ends won’t line up, since we’ve trimmed one of the pieces.

Now! What we’ll do is edgestitch around the edges of the interfacing. As we do this, we’ll pull the uninterfaced collar, stretching it to fit the top layer. Sew with the interfaced side on top. Start in the middle, and work your way to the edge. Then start again in the middle, sewing towards the other corner.

I’m using the edgestitching foot and lining it up along the edge of the white interfacing, with the needle shifted ever so slightly to the inside of the interfacing for a very close edgestitch.

It’s hard to see the white-on-white stitching but here is how it will look at the point of the collar.

Once you’ve sewn one side, it will be a little bubbly and puffed up on the interfaced side. You can see in the photo below that the top layer is not completely flat. This is intentional, so that the collar will curve around the neck. It will all come together soon!

Flip the collar around and sew from the middle to the other point. You’ll want to use two hands when you sew, to pull that under layer tight as you sew. I’ve tried to demo it with just one hand (and the other on the camera!)

Now fold each corner in, and press. This will make the seam allowances naturally want to go into the right place when we turn the collar right side out.

Turn your collar right side out, and press. Use a point turner to poke out the collar points.

Press your collar. It won’t lie flat if you have stretched your undercollar nicely, it will look a bit like this!

Ok! Only a few steps left. We’ll topstitch the collar next.

This photo is meant to demonstrate that you have to stretch the undercollar as you topstitch, or you’ll end up with it all bunched down at the other end.

One final step. If we sew our collar in as it is, it won’t bend nicely

Sewing the collar together

Pin the Collar Pieces

Place the collar piece with the interfacing attached, right side up. Position the other collar piece on top, also with the right side up, and line up the edges so they are even. Pin the pieces together along the short edges and one of the long edges. If one of the long edges has notches, leave this edge unpinned as you will need to line it up with the neckline. Insert pins perpendicular to the fabric edges to make them easier to remove as you sew.

Sew the Collar

Take the pinned collar pieces to your sewing machine and sew a straight stitch along the first short edge, all the way around the collar, until you reach the other pinned edge. Remember to pull out the pins one at a time before you sew over the area. Do not sew over the pins as this could damage your machine. Remove the collar from the machine and cut off any excess threads. You can also use a zigzag stitch for extra security.

Trim the Fabric

Use fabric scissors to trim the excess fabric around the outside of the stitches. Cut away the corners of the collar and make small notches into the fabric along the long edges to make it easier to press out the fabric. Be careful not to cut into the stitches. Cut the fabric about 0.25 inches from the stitches.

Invert the Collar

Use your finger to turn the collar right side out. Reach into the collar and press the edges with your fingers. You can also use the end of a pencil to carefully press out the fabric in the corners. Be gentle so as not to rip the seam.

Press the Collar

Lay the collar flat on an ironing board or a towel on a countertop. Iron the collar on its lowest setting until it is flat and neat. If the fabric is delicate, place a t-shirt or towel over it before ironing.

Add an Edge Stitch (Optional)

Edge stitching the collar is optional but will give it a more finished look and help it hold its shape. Sew a straight stitch about 0.25 inches from the secured edges, but do not sew along the side you left open.

Attaching the collar to a shirt

• Pin the collar to the shirt's neckline: Line up the edges of the collar and the shirt's neckline, ensuring that the right sides of both pieces are together. Match any notches on the collar and neckline to ensure the collar is centred. Insert a pin every 2 to 3 inches along the collar.
• Sew a straight stitch along the raw edges of the collar and neckline: Sew a straight stitch about 0.5 inches from the raw edges. You may want to sew across the neckline twice for extra security. Cut off any loose threads after sewing.
• Fold and press the collar: After sewing the collar, you may want to press it along the desired fold to ensure it lays as intended when worn. Usually, this is around the middle or near the seam. Place a t-shirt or towel over the collar if the fabric is delicate. For an extra stiff collar, spray it with starch.
• Topstitch the collar (optional): Edge stitching the collar is optional but can enhance the collar's appearance and help it hold its shape. Sew a straight stitch about 0.25 inches from the secured edges of the collar, avoiding the side left open.

Additionally, here are some general tips for sewing a shirt collar:

• Choose a pattern: Collars come in various shapes and sizes, and they are typically integrated into the shirt's design. Select a pattern that includes a collar and follow the instructions carefully.
• Select the fabric: Your pattern should specify the type of fabric needed for the collar. Choose the colour based on whether you want the collar to blend in or stand out. Pre-wash and dry the fabric to prevent shrinkage after the first wash.
• Cut the fabric: Use the paper pattern to cut out the collar pieces. Cut the fabric with sharp fabric scissors, ensuring precise edges.
• Prepare the interfacing: Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of one collar piece. This adds structure and body to the collar.
• Sew the collar pieces: Pin the collar pieces with the right sides facing each other. Sew a straight or zigzag stitch along the edges, removing pins as you sew. Trim the fabric around the stitches and invert the collar. Press the collar flat with an iron.

Using the right tools

Making a T-shirt collar requires a lot of precision and the right tools. Here are the tools you will need to make a T-shirt collar:

• Sewing machine
• Fabric scissors
• Iron
• Pins
• Needle
• Thread
• Collar pattern
• Fabric
• Interfacing
• Tape measure
• Cardboard

Once you have your tools ready, you can start by cutting out the collar pieces using your collar pattern and fabric. You will need two collar pieces, one for the top collar and one for the under collar. The top collar is the outside part of the collar that is visible when worn, and the under collar is the inside part that is folded under. Cut your fabric with precision, following the pattern carefully.

After cutting out the collar pieces, it's time to interface the fabric. Interfacing adds structure and body to the collar, giving it a crisp and snappy look. Follow the instructions on your interfacing, and test it on scraps of fabric before applying it to your collar pieces. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric and attach it using an iron.

With your collar pieces interfaced, it's now time to sew them together. Pin the pieces together, right sides facing each other, and sew along the short edges and one long edge. Remember to leave the long edge with notches unpinned, as this will be lined up with the neckline. Sew with a straight stitch, and then trim the fabric around the stitches.

Invert the collar and push out the fabric at the corners, being careful not to press too hard and rip the seam. Press the collar with an iron to make it flat and crisp. At this point, you can add an edge stitch to the outside of the collar for a more finished look.

Now it's time to attach the collar to the shirt. Line up the edges of the collar and the neckline, matching any notches, and pin them together. Sew a straight stitch along the raw edges of the collar and neckline, and then press the collar along the desired fold. And there you have it—your very own T-shirt collar, made with the right tools and techniques!

Pressing the collar

Firstly, lay the collar on a flat surface, such as an ironing board or a towel on a countertop. Then, use an iron on its lowest setting and run it back and forth across the collar until it is flat and neat. If the fabric is delicate, place a t-shirt or towel over the collar before ironing.

For an extra stiff collar, spray it with starch, which can be found in the laundry aisle at your local grocery store.

If you are making a collar with a collar stand, such as a classic shirt collar, you will need to press the collar before attaching it to the stand. This will give you a crisper edge.

Once the collar is attached to the stand, you will need to press it again. Turn the collar and stand right side out and press the round sides, working the seam to the edge to get a crisp finish. Then, press the rest of the collar.

If you are making a collar without a stand, such as a t-shirt collar, you will only need to press it once. However, you can add an edge stitch to the outside of the collar for a more finished look and to help it hold its shape. Sew a straight stitch about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) from the secured edges of the collar.

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