The Warmth Of Winter: Sourcing Down For Coats

Down jackets are highly sought after for their exceptional warmth and lightweight nature. The down used in these jackets is composed of the soft under-feathers of ducks or geese. However, the process of obtaining down for jackets has raised concerns among animal rights groups, as birds used for their feathers are often slaughtered using inhumane methods. As a result, some companies are now using vegan materials that serve as an alternative to down while being more environmentally friendly.

Down is sourced from duck or goose feathers

Down is nature's most successful insulator, and the global feather trade is thriving. Down jackets are known for their exceptional warmth-to-weight ratio and are often preferred for their compressibility, making them easy to pack. The insulating power of down is measured using a fill power rating, which indicates the volume that one ounce of down occupies in cubic inches. The higher the fill power, the better the insulation. Common fill powers range from 550 to 900.

However, down has its drawbacks. Down performs poorly in wet conditions. Feathers ball and clump when wet, leaving no room for warm air in between. Birds keep their feathers oiled to repel water, but down jackets rely on a waterproof and breathable shell to prevent them from getting wet. They also typically require a mechanical dryer to restore loft after soaking. Some manufacturers treat feathers with a water-repellent chemical, but this is not always 100% effective.

The process of sourcing down often involves cruel practices. Birds used for their feathers are sent to the slaughterhouse, where they are hung upside down, stunned, and have their throats slit—often while they are still conscious. As a result, many companies are now using high-tech vegan materials that are better for birds and the environment.

Feathers are an excellent natural insulator

Down feathers are the most effective and durable natural fibre used as insulation in clothing and sleeping bags. They are excellent natural insulators due to their unique structure, which consists of a central shaft or rachis with smaller branches called barbs branching off it. These barbs have tiny hooks or barbules that interlock to form a continuous surface, trapping air within the feathers and creating pockets of air that provide insulation. This structure allows feathers to capture air more efficiently than other materials, making them ideal for regulating temperature.

The density and flexibility of feathers also contribute to their effectiveness as insulators. Denser feathers contain more air pockets, providing better insulation. The flexibility of feathers allows them to conform to the contours of the body, providing warmth where it is needed. Additionally, feathers are highly durable and can last for years, making them a long-term insulation solution.

The water-repellent properties of feathers further enhance their insulating capabilities. Even when soaked with water, feathers retain air pockets, helping to retain heat. This makes feathers ideal for use in wet or damp conditions, as their insulating properties remain intact.

In nature, birds use their down feathers to insulate themselves from the cold. A Canada goose, for example, has between 20,000 and 25,000 feathers, many of which are short and fluffy, designed to trap heat and keep the bird warm. Similarly, humans have utilised the insulating properties of down feathers in clothing, bedding, and outdoor gear for centuries.

Synthetic insulation is made from plastic fibres

The most common synthetic fibres used in the composites industries are Kevlar (aramid), carbon, and glass fibres. Synthetic fibres are more durable than natural fibres and can be dyed more easily. They also offer consumer-friendly functions such as stretching, waterproofing, and stain resistance.

Synthetic insulation for winter coats is made from materials such as polyester, which is known for its durability, wrinkle resistance, and resistance to stretching and shrinking. Polyester is often blended with other fibres to improve its qualities. Other synthetic materials used in insulation include nylon, a strong, lightweight, and elastic synthetic fibre, and polypropylene, a lightweight and moisture-resistant thermoplastic polymer.

Synthetic is better in wet weather

Insulation is a key feature of winter coats, and there are two main types: down and synthetic. Down insulation uses the soft under-feathers of ducks or geese, while synthetic insulation uses man-made fibres such as polyester to mimic the properties of natural down. While down jackets are popular due to their exceptional warmth-to-weight ratio and compressibility, synthetic jackets have several advantages, especially in wet weather.

Synthetic insulation performs better than down when wet. Synthetic insulation retains most of its ability to insulate when exposed to water, while down loses its loft when wet, causing it to clump together and lose its insulating properties. Synthetic insulation dries out quickly, whereas down takes a long time to dry. Synthetic insulation is also cheaper than down and is often hypoallergenic.

The superior performance of synthetic insulation in wet weather makes it a more reliable option for outdoor activities and unpredictable climates. Synthetic jackets are ideal for hiking, cross-country skiing, or other high-exertion activities as they regulate body temperature, preventing the wearer from overheating. Synthetic insulation is also more breathable than down, allowing for better temperature regulation.

In addition to its wet-weather performance, synthetic insulation offers other benefits. Synthetic jackets are generally more durable than down jackets, with burlier and more abrasion-resistant shell fabric. Synthetic insulation is also easier to care for than down, as it does not require special cleaning methods.

While synthetic insulation has made significant advancements, down insulation still has its advantages. Down is extremely lightweight, compressible, and warm, making it ideal for cold, dry conditions. Down is also known for its long lifespan, with proper care, down jackets and sleeping bags can last for decades.

In conclusion, while down insulation has its merits, synthetic insulation is a superior choice for wet weather. Synthetic jackets insulate effectively even when wet, dry quickly, and regulate body temperature during high-exertion activities. Synthetic insulation's breathability, durability, ease of care, and affordability further contribute to its advantages over down. When choosing a winter coat, considering the climate and intended activities is essential to making an informed decision.

Synthetic insulation is not biodegradable

Synthetic insulation is a popular choice for winter coats due to its warmth and lightweight nature. It is made from man-made fibres, such as polyester, that mimic the properties of natural down. While synthetic insulation offers some advantages, such as better performance in wet conditions and hypoallergenic properties, it also has some drawbacks, including being slightly heavier and less compressible than down. One significant disadvantage of synthetic insulation is that it is not biodegradable.

The issue of biodegradability is becoming increasingly important as consumers become more conscious of the environmental impact of their choices. In the context of a rising global temperature, unpredictable weather systems, and the fashion industry's contribution to climate change, consumers are seeking more sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives.

Unlike natural materials such as sheep's wool, cotton, or plant-based insulators like hemp and flax, synthetic insulation does not break down naturally over time. This means that when synthetic winter coats are discarded, they can end up in landfills, contributing to waste accumulation and posing a potential threat to the environment.

The non-biodegradability of synthetic insulation also highlights the importance of proper disposal and recycling methods. Some companies are addressing this issue by using recycled materials in their synthetic insulation. For example, Krimson Klover has committed to using recycled polyester fill in its products starting in 2024, and other companies are exploring innovative materials that are better for the environment.

While synthetic insulation may provide certain benefits in terms of warmth and performance, its lack of biodegradability is a significant drawback. As consumers become more environmentally conscious, there is a growing demand for sustainable alternatives that offer the same level of functionality without compromising the planet's health.

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