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T-shirts are typically made from cotton, polyester, or a blend of the two. Cotton is the most common fabric used for t-shirts, but there are several different types, including combed cotton, organic cotton, and Pima cotton. The fabric used for t-shirts can be sourced from cotton fields, usually found in the US or India, and then goes through several processes, including carding, combing, and blending. The fabric is then treated with heat and chemicals, including bleaching, printing, and dyeing, before being sewn together.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fabric | Cotton, polyester, rayon, linen, spandex, etc. |
| Fabric blends | Triblend (cotton, polyester, rayon), Poly-viscose (polyester, viscose/rayon) |
| Fabric weight | Fabric weight is measured in ounces per square yard or grams per square meter. |
| Yarn count | Number of 840-yard lengths that make up 1 pound of yarn |
| Manufacturing process | Carding, combing, blending, knitting/weaving, treating with heat/chemicals, sewing, printing, etc. |
| Cost | Varies depending on fabric type, quality, manufacturing process, brand, etc. |
Cotton vs Polyester
Cotton and polyester are two of the most common fabrics used for T-shirts. While cotton is a natural, vegetable-based fabric, polyester is synthetic, made from plastic fibres. Both fabrics have their pros and cons and are suited to different purposes.
Cotton
Cotton is a natural, hypoallergenic fabric that is soft, comfortable, and gentle on the skin. It is breathable, helping to regulate body temperature, and is good for year-round wear. It is also biodegradable, making it a more environmentally friendly option than polyester. However, it is prone to shrinking and can stain easily. It also tends to absorb and hold moisture rather than allowing it to evaporate quickly. Cotton is ideal for screen printing as the ink adheres well to the fabric.
Polyester
Polyester is a durable, synthetic fabric that is wrinkle-resistant and quick-drying. It is hydrophobic, meaning it does not absorb water, and moisture-wicking, making it a good choice for athletic wear. Polyester is also resistant to fading and holds up well to repeated washing and wearing. However, it is less breathable than cotton and can be irritating to the skin. It is also restricted in terms of printing methods.
When deciding between cotton and polyester, consider the purpose of the T-shirt. If it is for everyday wear, cotton is a good option as it is soft and comfortable. For athletic wear or work uniforms, polyester may be preferable due to its moisture-wicking properties and durability. If you are looking for a more environmentally friendly option, cotton is the better choice as it is natural and biodegradable, although cotton producers do tend to use a lot of pesticides. In terms of cost, cotton is currently less expensive than polyester, but this could change due to market fluctuations.
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Blended Fabrics
The most common blends for T-shirts are cotton-polyester blends, also known as "cotton-poly". These blends are typically made from 50% cotton and 50% polyester, or 65% polyester and 35% cotton. The former is less prone to shrinking than pure cotton, while the latter offers more resistance to shrinking than the higher-cotton blend, due to the higher polyester content. This makes cotton-poly blends ideal for sports and exercise.
Cotton-poly blends are also popular because they are cheaper than pure polyester, while still offering the benefits of that fabric. However, like polyester, cotton-poly blends can irritate the skin and are prone to clinging. They also have a more limited range of printing options than cotton.
Another popular blend is a tri-blend, which is made from cotton, polyester, and rayon. Rayon is a semi-synthetic fibre made from wood pulp, which gives T-shirts a smooth and silky feel. Tri-blends are extremely soft and drape nicely on the body. However, they may irritate the skin and are usually more expensive than other blends.
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Combed Cotton
To create combed cotton, the fibres are first separated and roughly lined up so they are all facing the same direction. These aligned fibres are then divided into slivers, which are spun into thread or yarn. Fine brushes are then used to pull out any remaining impurities and short cotton fibres, with around 15% of the original volume being removed. This leaves only long, straight strands that have been evened out and aligned, which are then spun into thread or yarn.
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Organic Cotton
- Growing Cotton
- Ginning
The cotton ginning process involves turning cotton bolls into fibres. The cotton bolls are picked and delivered to a ginning factory, where the cotton is fed into a ginning machine. This machine separates the cotton fibres from the seedpods, removing any dirt, stems, leaves, and linters. The seeds are then refined to create cottonseed oil, while the linters are used in paper and plastic manufacturing. At this stage, the cotton is referred to as lint cotton.
Cotton Spinning
Cotton spinning is the process of transforming fibres into yarn. The fibres pass through a carding machine, which separates them so they can be woven or knitted. The fibres are thoroughly cleaned, combed by machinery, and finally spun to form a soft-textured yarn. Once the cotton has been transformed into a knitted cotton fabric, it is transported to dyeing factories.
Dyeing the Cotton Fabric
In organic-certified factories, only natural dyes are used. This means that the colours used in the dyes come from natural elements such as indigo, onion shells, and turmeric. Natural dyes require land to grow the ingredients. The conventional dyeing process is highly toxic and requires a lot of water, resulting in water waste that is contaminated with toxic heavy metals and pollutants.
Construction of the Garment
Once the cotton has been prepped and dyed, it is ready for the final stage: constructing the garment. The design team discusses sizes, cuts, and colours with the workers. The workers then cut the finished cotton cloth according to the required designs and piece everything together through stitching on industrial sewing machines. Once the garments are completed, they are collected, cleaned, pressed, packaged, and stored in a warehouse.
Distribution
The final step is distributing the garments from the warehouse to storefronts worldwide, where customers can purchase them.
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Knit Fabrics
Rib knits are often used when a snugger fit is desired. Many higher-quality t-shirts are made of durable interlock rib knits, which consist of two ribbed fabrics that are joined together.
Jersey is a knit fabric with a distinct front and back. If you look closely, you will see fine ribs running lengthwise on the front and semicircle loops on the back. It is the most common knit used in t-shirt fabric because of the natural stretch it provides.
Another type of knit fabric used for t-shirts is fleece, which is typically made from polyester. It is woven and then brushed with a process called napping that teases out the knitted loops to create a thicker, soft, fuzzy side. It is used to make hoodies, sweatshirts, and sweatpants.
French terry is similar to jersey knit but with larger, fluffier loops on the inside face. It is usually a mid-weight fabric that is thicker and warmer than a t-shirt but thinner than cold-weather sweatshirts.
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Frequently asked questions
T-shirts are typically made from cotton, polyester, or a blend of the two. Other materials include linen, rayon, and lycra/spandex.
Cotton is a natural, renewable resource that is great for sensitive skin and doesn't require chemicals. However, it is more expensive to produce and needs more water and land than other materials.
Polyester is a synthetic fabric that is durable, dries quickly, and maintains its shape. It is also flexible, cost-effective, and can be recycled. However, it is not very breathable and can cause water pollution.
Cotton T-shirts are generally more expensive but are softer and more comfortable. Polyester T-shirts are cheaper and better for athletic wear, but they can be less breathable and not as pleasant to wear.
The manufacturing process for T-shirts involves several steps, including designing the style, cutting the fabric, assembling the pieces, stitching the seams, finishing the hems and necklines, and adding any decorative elements like trim or screen prints.
There are several types of cotton used in T-shirt fabrication, including combed cotton, organic cotton, Pima cotton, and slub cotton. Combed cotton has shorter strands removed and is then brushed to straighten the fibers, making it softer, smoother, and stronger. Organic cotton is grown with fewer fertilizers and pesticides and is generally softer and more expensive. Pima cotton has extra-long fibers that make it the highest-quality and most durable option. Slub cotton has a textured look with slight lumps created by twisting the cotton before weaving.
