Crafting Custom T-Shirts: A Step-By-Step Guide

Making your own T-shirts can be a fun and rewarding experience. It gives you complete control over the look and fit of your clothing. There are several ways to make a T-shirt, from sewing one from scratch to using screen printing or heat transfer methods. If you want to sew your own T-shirt, you'll need a sewing machine, fabric, a pattern, and some basic sewing supplies. You can create your own pattern by tracing an existing T-shirt, or you can find free patterns online. Choose a knit fabric, such as jersey cotton, for a soft and breathable T-shirt. Cut out your pattern pieces and fabric, then sew the pieces together, following the steps in your pattern instructions. If you're screen printing or using heat transfer, you'll need different supplies, such as a simple frame and mesh for screen printing or a heat press and transfer paper for iron-on designs. These methods are great for adding custom designs to pre-made T-shirts.

Sewing a T-shirt

Drafting the T-shirt Pattern

First, you need to draft the pattern for your T-shirt. You can do this by copying the shape of an existing T-shirt that fits you well. Fold the T-shirt in half vertically, keeping the front sides out, and lay it over a large sheet of paper. Pin along the perimeter of the shirt, especially around the back neckline and sleeve seams. Then, trace the outline of the shirt, including the shoulder, sides, and bottom. Next, move the folded shirt over to a fresh piece of paper and pin along the front outline, paying special attention to the front neckline, which is usually deeper than the back. Trace the front outline, then unfold the shirt and flatten out one sleeve. Pin and trace around the sleeve, and repeat for the other sleeve. Finally, add seam allowances to each piece and cut out the pattern pieces.

Choosing and Preparing the Material

Most T-shirts are made with knit fabric, but you may want to choose a fabric with minimal stretch to make sewing easier. Wash and dry the fabric before cutting out the pattern pieces. Fold the fabric in half with the right sides facing in, and place your pattern pieces on top. Pin the pattern down, trace around it, and cut out the pieces.

Sewing the T-shirt

Now it's time to start sewing! Place the front and back body pieces together, right sides facing inward, and pin around the shoulders. Stitch straight across both shoulder seams. Open up the shirt and lay it flat, then place the ribbed collar over the neckline opening and pin it in place. Sew along the raw edge of the collar using a zigzag stitch. Flip the shirt over and position the sleeves right-side down, pinning the rounded portion of the sleeve to the rounded portion of the armhole. Sew the sleeves to the armholes with a straight stitch. Fold the shirt with its right sides facing and sew down both sides, starting from the underarm seam to the bottom opening. Finally, fold and sew hems at the bottom and sleeves of the shirt.

Choosing the right fabric

Fabric Type

The type of fabric you choose will depend on the desired characteristics of your T-shirt. The most common fabric options are cotton, polyester, or a blend of the two. Cotton is a natural, comfortable, and soft fabric that stays cool in the summer. However, it may have little-to-no wrinkle resistance. Polyester, on the other hand, is a synthetic fabric known for its durability and wrinkle resistance. It is also quick-drying and holds printed designs well. If you want the best of both worlds, a cotton-polyester blend offers enhanced durability, stretch, and comfort.

Fabric Weight and Texture

The weight of the fabric, typically measured in grams per square meter (GSM), will determine the thickness and breathability of your T-shirt. Lightweight fabrics (around 100-150 GSM) are thinner and more breathable, while heavyweight fabrics (200+ GSM) are thicker and more durable. The texture of the fabric is also important, as softer and smoother fabrics generally provide a more comfortable feel.

Intended Use and Climate Conditions

Consider the purpose and climate for which the T-shirt will be worn. For athletic wear, moisture-wicking and stretchable fabrics are ideal. In hot climates, breathable and lightweight fabrics such as cotton or linen are perfect. For casual wear, a blend of comfort and durability is key. If you're creating T-shirts for winter, ensure the fabric provides warmth and breathability.

Durability and Longevity

If you're looking for a T-shirt that will last, consider fabrics known for their durability, such as combed cotton or blended materials. Polyester is also renowned for its durability and resistance to shrinking and stretching. Check the stitching quality and read reviews to gauge the fabric's performance over time.

Comfort and Maintenance

The fabric should appeal to the wearer in terms of comfort and maintenance. Cotton is highly breathable and comfortable, while polyester is easy to care for and resistant to wrinkles. Linen is another excellent choice for warm climates as it is breathable, lightweight, and durable. However, it requires more upkeep due to its tendency to wrinkle.

Print Compatibility

If you plan to print designs on your T-shirts, consider the fabric's print compatibility. Cotton is typically the best material for vibrant and long-lasting prints, but polyester is also a good choice for certain dye sublimation techniques that can achieve vivid colours and designs.

Environmental Impact

If sustainability is important to you, opt for eco-friendly fabrics with minimal environmental impact. Organic cotton and recycled polyester are great choices, as they utilise sustainable production methods and support a healthier ecosystem.

Cost

Finally, consider the financial and environmental costs of the fabric. Higher-quality fabrics like organic cotton tend to be more expensive, while polyester blends can offer a balance between quality and cost-effectiveness, especially in bulk orders.

Remember, there is no one-size-fits-all fabric for T-shirts. The best fabric depends on your specific requirements, so choose wisely!

Cutting the fabric

Before you cut your fabric, it's important to prepare it. Wash and dry your fabric, then press it with an iron to ensure it's as smooth as possible. This will ensure your fabric is ready for cutting and any creases won't affect your measurements.

When you're ready to cut, lay out your fabric on a table, giving yourself plenty of room to work. Try to keep the fabric as smooth as possible as you lay it out, and fold it in half, making sure the selvages (the woven edges) are together. Keep the right sides of the fabric facing each other.

Now you're ready to arrange your pattern on the fabric. Take the pieces of your pattern and arrange them according to your cutting instructions. Some pattern pieces will say "cut one on the fold," or "cut two on the fold." Line these pieces up along the fold of your fabric.

Use straight pins to pin your pattern pieces to your fabric before cutting. Start by pinning the corners of your pattern, then pin along the edges. Alternatively, you can weigh the fabric and use chalk to draw an outline on your fabric.

Finally, cut your fabric. Hold the fabric down with one hand and cut with the other, taking your time and using long strokes. Keep the scissors at a 90-degree angle to your cutting surface.

Sewing the shoulders

To begin, place the front and back pieces of your T-shirt fabric right sides together. This means that the sides of the fabric that will be visible when the T-shirt is worn should be facing each other. Pin the pieces together along the shoulder seam to ensure they do not shift during sewing.

Next, select an appropriate stitch for your sewing machine. A zig-zag stitch is a good option for T-shirt fabric, as it allows for stretch and movement. If your sewing machine has a stretch stitch option, this is also suitable. Sew along the pinned shoulder seam, backstitching at the beginning and end to secure the stitching.

Once the shoulder seams are sewn, open the T-shirt flat and attach the sleeves. Place the sleeves right sides together, lining up the top centre of the sleeve with the shoulder seam. Pin the ends of the sleeve to the end of the armhole, and then ease the rest of the sleeve into place. Stitch the sleeves in place, again using a suitable stretch stitch.

Repeat this process for the other sleeve, and then press the seams open with an iron to create a neat finish.

At this point, you can continue with the construction of your T-shirt, following the steps for attaching the neckband, sewing the side seams, and hemming the sleeves and bottom edge.

Making the neckband

Firstly, turn your shirt inside out and match up the shoulders. This ensures that the neckband will be aligned correctly. Next, pin the four corners of the neckband to keep it in place. It is also helpful to place some pins in the centre for added security. Utilise a ruler to create a rectangle shape for the neckband pattern. Remember that the neckband is folded in half, so double its width in your pattern. For a comfortable fit, subtract about an inch from the length of the pattern. Label the pattern piece accordingly, and make a note to cut one on the fold.

Now, take the fabric piece you cut for the neckband and sew the two short ends together using a straight stitch. Your neckband should now be a loop. Fold the neckband piece in half lengthwise, ensuring that the wrong sides are together. This means the exterior of the fabric will be facing outwards. Secure the edges with pins and sew them together using a narrow zig-zag stitch.

The next step is to attach the neckband to the shirt. Lay the shirt open and flatten the shoulders. Place the neckband onto the neckline, pinning it to the right side of the fabric. Start by pinning the neckband at the shoulders, then the centre, and finally the back. After these four points are pinned, add one more pin between each pinned point. You may need to stretch the neckband slightly to fit it onto the neckline. This is intentional, as you want the neckband to be slightly smaller than the neckline for a snug fit.

Finally, sew the neckband to the shirt. Use either a straight stretch stitch or a zig-zag stitch, depending on the fabric type and your preference. Sew one section at a time, stretching the fabric of the neckband as you go. After completing a section, remove the pins and check that the shirt fabric is not pleating beneath the neckband. Once the entire neckband is sewn, go over it with an iron to press the seams and create a neat finish.

Frequently asked questions