Choosing The Right Amount Of Ribbing For T-Shirts

Whether you're making a T-shirt from scratch or revamping an old one, ribbing is an essential component to consider. Ribbing is a type of fabric woven to have a foundation surface with raised lines, usually running vertically, that provide durability and flexibility. It is commonly used for T-shirt necklines and sleeve cuffs, as it stretches easily over the head and arms. When sewing ribbing, it's important to ensure the fabric is stretched evenly to avoid different widths and gathers. Additionally, the amount of ribbing required depends on the stretchiness of the fabric and the desired fit. For a regular crew neck T-shirt, the ribbing should be around 70-75% of the neckline circumference.

The more stretch the rib knit has, the shorter the neckband piece should be

When creating a T-shirt, it is important to consider the type of fabric used for the neckband, as this will impact the overall fit and comfort of the garment. The stretchiness of the rib knit fabric is a key factor in determining the appropriate length for the neckband piece. A general rule of thumb is that the more elastic the rib knit, the shorter the neckband should be. This is because a highly stretchable rib knit can easily be stretched out and will create unwanted gathers around the neckline if it is too long. For a standard crew neck T-shirt, it is recommended that the neckband piece be around 70-75% of the circumference of the neckline.

When working with a highly stretchable rib knit fabric, one may need to go below 70% of the neckline circumference to prevent the fabric from being stretched out too much. It is important to find the right balance, as a neckband that is too short may also cause issues with the fit and comfort of the T-shirt. Additionally, the width of the neckband should be considered; a wider neckband is less likely to lie flat compared to a narrower one. For a classic T-shirt, a good width for the neckband is around 2.5 cm (1") plus seam allowances. It is worth noting that the finished width may be slightly narrower due to the stretch of the fabric.

The type of fabric used for the neckband is also a factor. If using self-fabric (jersey) instead of rib knit, the neckband piece should be longer and narrower than a pattern piece for rib knit, as jersey has less stretch and will not lie as flat when stretched out. For a deep neckline, a narrower neckband is also recommended since a wider one may not lie flat.

To summarise, when creating a T-shirt, it is crucial to consider the stretchiness of the rib knit fabric to determine the appropriate length for the neckband. A good fit can be achieved by following the principle that the more stretch the rib knit has, the shorter the neckband piece should be.

A wider neckband is less likely to lie flat

When it comes to T-shirt necklines, it's important to get the measurements just right. The key to a perfectly flat-lying neckband is to ensure there is just enough stretch, but not so much that it pulls the fabric.

The rule of thumb is to cut your band to measure around 70-85% of the neck measurement. For a regular crew neck T-shirt opening, a good width for a classic T-shirt neckband is around 2.5 cm (1") plus seam allowances. However, if you want a wider band, you'll need to adjust the measurements accordingly.

To determine the ideal width for a wider neckband, you can cut a strip of fabric, fold it to the desired width, and stretch it around the neckline to see if it will work. It's important to remember that the more you stretch the fabric, the narrower it gets. Additionally, if you're working with a deep neckline, a narrower neckband is preferable as a wider one won't lie flat.

When attaching the neckband, it's crucial to stretch it evenly to avoid different widths and gathers along the neckline. Before sewing, you should also mark the corresponding notches on the neckline and neckband to ensure they align properly.

By following these guidelines and making adjustments as needed, you can achieve a flat-lying neckband that complements the style and fit of your T-shirt.

If using self-fabric instead of rib knit, the neckband piece should be longer and more narrow

When using self-fabric instead of rib knit, the neckband piece should be longer and more narrow. This is because self-fabric, such as jersey, has less stretch than rib knit and won't lie as flat when stretched out.

A longer and more narrow neckband compensates for the reduced stretch of the self-fabric. By cutting the neckband piece longer and more narrow, you can ensure that it will stretch enough to fit over the wearer's head and lie flat against the body when sewn onto the neckline.

• Opt for a neckband piece that is around 80% of the length of the neckline circumference and around 0.75 inches in folded width, or slightly less.
• Before cutting the neckband piece, test the stretch of your fabric by cutting a strip with a width twice the desired neckband width plus seam allowances. Pull on the ends of the strip to stretch it, fold it in half lengthwise, and press it into a curve that approximates the shape of the neckline. If it doesn't lie flat, you may need to use a narrower band width or a different fabric.
• When attaching the neckband, stretch it evenly as you sew, making sure any notches you've made align with those on the neckline. Don't stretch the neckline, just the neckband.
• After sewing, press the neckband with a low heat setting to ensure it lies flat and remove any creases.
• For a more professional-looking finish, topstitch the seam allowance using a twin needle, zigzag stitch, or a coverstitch machine. Start stitching a few centimetres away from the shoulder seam at the back of the T-shirt and work your way around.
• If you're using a twin needle, stitch in the opposite direction from how you attached the neckband. For example, if you sewed the neckband in a counter-clockwise direction, do the topstitching in a clockwise direction to prevent draglines.

Using self-fabric for a T-shirt neckband requires some adjustments to the length and width of the neckband piece compared to using rib knit. By following the guidelines above, you can achieve a well-fitting and flat-lying neckband even when using self-fabric.

The neckband needs to be stretched out evenly

To ensure the neckband is stretched out evenly, you need to quarter the garment and the neckband. This involves folding the garment and the neckband in half and marking the centre back (CB) of the neckline with a pin. Then, you need to pin the neckband 1" away from the CB pin, lining up the raw edges with the neckline. Leave 1" of the tail hanging past the CB pin.

Next, you need to stretch and sew the neckband. Slide the garment under the needle and position the needle above the second pin (not at the CB). Put the needle down, pull the neckband slightly, and push it down on the neckline, holding it in place with your fingers. Sew the neckband to the neckline until you reach your finger, then put the needle down again and repeat the stretching until you are 1" from the CB pin. Backstitch to secure the thread.

To ensure the neckband is stretched evenly, it is important to quarter the garment and the neckband accurately and match the pins during the stretching and sewing process.

To avoid a bulky intersection of seams, move the neckband seam towards the back

When sewing a t-shirt, you may encounter a bulky intersection of seams at the shoulder. This can be avoided by moving the neckband seam a couple of centimetres (less than an inch) towards the back. This technique is particularly useful when sewing a knit neckband onto a t-shirt or top. It is one of many methods that can be used to reduce bulk and prevent seam allowances from causing unsightly ridges on the right side of the garment.

Before attaching the neckband, it is important to stretch it out evenly to avoid different widths and/or gathers along the neckline. To ensure the neckband is evenly distributed, it is recommended to use notches. For example, if the distance between the shoulder seam and the mid-back on the neckline is 10 cm, the corresponding distance on the neckband should be 7.5 cm if using a neckband that is 75% of the neckline circumference.

To account for the movement of the neckband seam away from the shoulder, the shoulder notch on the neckband should also be moved away from the seam line. While this makes the process a little trickier, precise measurements are not necessary. It is more important to follow the principles and allow the rest to sort itself out.

In addition to moving the neckband seam, grading your seams can also help to reduce bulk. This involves trimming the raw seam allowances to different widths, staggering the widths to create a smooth transition from the widest seam allowance to the narrowest. For seams that will be pressed open, such as side seams or princess seams, trimming the seams with pinking shears or an overlocker/serger will create a professional finish and prevent the fabric from fraying.

By combining these techniques, such as moving the neckband seam and grading and trimming the seams, you can effectively reduce bulk and create a crisp and professional-looking t-shirt.

Frequently asked questions