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A sports jacket is a versatile piece that can elevate your wardrobe, but only if it fits well. The first step to finding your size is to measure your chest. You can do this yourself by wrapping a measuring tape around the fullest part of your chest and across your shoulder blades, or you can ask a store attendant to help. Once you know your chest size, you can start trying on jackets. The shoulder fit is the most important factor when it comes to jackets, so make sure the seam where the sleeve meets the shoulder sits flat and neat on your upper arm. If you see any divots or sagging, the jacket is too small. If the shoulders are too big, you'll notice excess fabric when you lift your arms. The length of your sports jacket also matters. As a general rule, the bottom of the jacket should hit your lower crotch if you're over 6 feet tall, and your mid-crotch if you're under 5'9.
What You'll Learn
Shoulder fit
The shoulder fit of a sports jacket is one of the most important elements of perfect sizing. It is also one of the trickiest to get right. It is recommended to get this part of the jacket fitted before making any other alterations, as adjustments to the shoulders by a tailor can be costly.
To get the right shoulder fit, stand in front of a mirror, with your shoulders back, and look at the seam where the sleeve of the jacket joins the shoulder. The shoulder is sitting correctly if it is flat and neat from the top of the shoulder to the upper arm. The seam should meet the shoulder where it starts to curve to the arm, regardless of whether you have broad, narrow, or rounded shoulders.
If the jacket is too big, you will see divots or sagging from the front and side view. You should not be able to pinch the fabric at the shoulder line. If the jacket is too small, the fabric will pull.
If you are seeing divots, size down or try a different brand. If the jacket's shoulders are too wide, try a smaller size or a brand with a more relaxed, less structured shoulder.
Buttoned-Up Style: Sport Coats
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Jacket length
The length of a sports jacket depends on your height and proportions. If you're over 6 feet tall, the jacket should end at your lower crotch area, around the bottom of the fly of your pants. For those under 5'9"", the sports jacket should end around the mid-crotch, or halfway down the fly. Another way to determine the correct length is to check where your watch sits when your arms are by your sides. The jacket should end in line with this point.
If you've found a jacket that fits well in the shoulders but is too long, it can be shortened by an inch, but no more than that, or the proportions will be off. If the jacket is too short, it's best to try a different one, as lengthening it is very difficult.
The length of the jacket is important to get right the first time, as altering it later can be tricky. Adjusting the length after the fact can alter the proportions of the coat, making it look "off".
The jacket should cover your rear and end at the base of your seat for a stylish, universally appropriate look. For a more modern look, a slightly shorter length is acceptable. A more traditional look can be achieved with a slightly longer length, ending just below the seat. The goal is to create balanced proportions between the upper and lower body, and therefore between the jacket and trousers.
The letter after the jacket size is the length of your jacket (both body and sleeve). Your options are short (S), regular (R), long (L), or extra long (XL). Generally, a "short" is suitable for people 5'8" and shorter; a "regular" is good for individuals 5'9" - 6' feet tall; between 6'1" and 6'4" is considered "long," and people 6'5" and taller need "extra long."
Sleeve length
The sleeve length of a sports jacket is one of the most important aspects of its fit. The sleeve should end just above the wrist bone, or the hinge of the wrist. This will allow for a small amount of shirt cuff to be exposed, typically between a quarter and half an inch. This is considered a stylish and universally appropriate look.
Exposing the shirt cuff in this way is an important detail that enhances your overall image. Showing no shirt cuff may make the jacket sleeves appear too long, while showing too much cuff may make the jacket sleeves seem comically short. The relationship between the jacket sleeve and shirt cuff suggests a man who is in control of his appearance and understands the importance of the small details in achieving an excellent aesthetic.
When trying on a sports jacket, there are a couple of tricks to determine the ideal sleeve length. Firstly, you can look for the crease on the inside of your wrist where it meets your hand. With your arms by your side, the sleeve should be pinned to this point, exposing half a centimetre of the shirt cuff. Alternatively, put your arms by your side and turn your palm out towards the floor, as if doing a 'penguin waddle'. Your hand should now be at a 90-degree angle to your body, and the sleeve should just be touching the top of your hand. If the sleeve is not sitting at this point, it needs to be shortened.
It is worth noting that the sleeve length can be adjusted by a tailor, typically by increasing it by up to 0.75 inches or decreasing it by up to 0.5 inches. However, it is important to keep in mind that altering the sleeve length can impact the placement of the sleeve buttons, so consider this when deciding whether to adjust the sleeve length.
Body/button closure
When trying on a sports jacket, you should pay attention to the button closure. Many people wear their sports jackets undone, but you should still ensure that the jacket can do up over your stomach.
If you can't close the jacket, hold it as close together as you can without straining the fabric. If there's less than an inch between the button and the closure, the jacket can be let out. If there's more than an inch, you need to size up to a regular or classic fit.
If you can close the jacket, check for an "X" shape across your stomach. If this shape appears, the jacket is too tight and should be let out. If no "X" shape appears, you're on the right track.
If the jacket is a little roomy in the midsection, you can ask a tailor to add darts and slim the jacket. This will give you a dream fit in the midsection. The jacket should always feel like it's lightly hugging you.
Collar fit
A gap between the jacket collar and shirt collar can be caused by a few factors. It may be that the jacket doesn't fit properly in the chest and/or back, or that the neck of the jacket is too large for your body shape. It could also be due to your posture; if you have forward-leaning or sloping shoulders, and the jacket is designed for someone with a more upright stance, this can cause the collar to gap.
If you notice a collar gap, the solution is to either go for a bespoke or custom jacket, or to try on different jacket models and brands to find one that suits your body shape and posture.
In addition to the collar gap, you should also check for "weird shoulder rumpling". This can occur when the jacket's shoulders are too big for the wearer, or if the jacket is designed for someone with a more upright stance or straight shoulders. Try on jackets from different brands to find one that suits your body shape and natural stance.
Frequently asked questions
The shoulder fit is crucial and should be the first thing you look at when trying on a sport coat. The shoulders should sit flat and neat from the top of your shoulder to your upper arm, regardless of whether you have broad, narrow or rounded shoulders. If the seams are in the wrong place, you may see "shoulder divots" or "shoulder sag", which means the sport coat doesn't fit.
The chest of a sport coat should follow the shape of your chest. If the sport coat is too small, you may see the fabric pull at the fastening point, forming an "X" with wrinkles. This means the jacket is too tight. If the jacket is too big, you may see a "chest gape", which is a gap between the chest and the jacket.
The length of a sport coat depends on your height and proportions. If you are over 6 ft tall, the jacket should end in your lower crotch area. If you are under 5 ft 9 inches tall, the jacket should end around your mid-crotch. As a general rule, the bottom edge of a jacket should end between the two knuckles on your thumb.
The sleeves of a sport coat should not cover your shirt sleeve completely. You should see about half a centimetre of your shirt cuff. You can check this by looking for the crease on the inside of your wrist where it meets your hand.
