Finding The Perfect Fit: Navigating The Wool Coat's Snug Embrace

A wool coat should be tight enough to keep you warm, but not so tight that you can't move freely. It should allow you to wear two layers underneath, such as a shirt and a jumper, and still be able to do up the buttons. The shoulders should fit well, and the sleeves should be long enough to cover the tops of your gloves. It's worth noting that wool coats can be tailored, so if you find one that's almost perfect, a tailor may be able to adjust it to fit you exactly.

Shoulders and arms

When it comes to the shoulders and arms of a wool coat, a correctly-fitting coat is key to warmth and style. Here are some tips to ensure a wool coat fits well in these areas:

Shoulders

The shoulders are one of the most important areas to consider when assessing the fit of a wool coat. A well-fitting coat should have shoulders that sit flat against your own shoulders, with the shoulder seam ending at the edge of your shoulder. If the coat's shoulder seam extends beyond your shoulder, it is too big, and if it doesn't reach the edge, it is too small. It is crucial to get the right fit in the shoulders, as this area is challenging to alter. A coat with shoulders that are too tight will restrict your movement and may cause discomfort, especially when layering with thicker garments underneath.

Arms

The sleeves of your wool coat should allow for a full range of motion without feeling too tight or constricting. You should be able to comfortably raise and lower your arms, roll your shoulders, and cross your arms in front of your chest without feeling that you will rip the seams. The sleeve hemline should ideally reach the base of your thumb when you connect your index finger and thumb. Sleeves that are too short can be uncomfortable and let in the cold, while sleeves that are too long can be easily adjusted by a tailor.

When trying on a wool coat, pay close attention to the fit of the shoulders and arms to ensure ease of movement and adequate warmth. A coat that is too tight in these areas will not only be uncomfortable but may also restrict your daily activities. It is worth noting that layering is an important consideration, especially during colder months, so ensure your coat accommodates the layers you intend to wear underneath.

Closing the coat

When it comes to closing your wool coat, there are a few things to keep in mind to ensure a perfect fit. Firstly, you should be able to close your coat comfortably, ensuring that the zipper or buttons do not strain or gap. This is especially important if you plan on layering with chunky knits and multiple layers underneath. It is worth noting that you should size up if needed to achieve this, as a coat that cannot be closed will not provide adequate warmth.

The fit of the coat's shoulders is crucial to achieving a well-fitting coat when closed. The shoulder seams should sit perfectly at the bony tops of your shoulders. If the shoulders are too narrow, it will restrict your movement and cause discomfort. On the other hand, if they are too wide, the coat will hang awkwardly and look ill-fitting.

The length of the coat sleeves is another important consideration. When closed, the sleeves should allow for comfortable movement and not restrict your arms. Ideally, the sleeve hemline should reach the point where your index finger and thumb connect, ensuring your hands remain warm. If the sleeves are too long, they can be easily hemmed by a tailor to achieve the perfect length.

Additionally, when closing your wool coat, ensure that it fits well around your neck. A coat that is too tight in the neck can be uncomfortable and restrictive, while one that is too loose may let in cold air. Finding a coat with a collar that fits well and provides adequate coverage is essential.

It is worth noting that you may need to try on multiple coats to find the perfect fit, as coat fittings can be challenging. Do not settle for a coat that does not fit well just because of its style or trendiness. A well-fitting coat that can be comfortably closed will not only keep you warm but also flatter your figure and enhance your style.

Length

The length of a coat is an important factor in determining its suitability for the wearer. The ideal length can vary depending on factors such as height, body proportions, and personal style preferences. Here are some guidelines to consider when choosing the length of a wool coat:

• For petites, coats that fall at the knee or shorter are generally the most flattering. This length works well with dresses, skirts, and pants, creating a well-proportioned silhouette.
• Taller individuals have more flexibility with coat lengths and can experiment with different options. However, it is essential to ensure that the coat is not too long, as it may restrict movement and appear overwhelming.
• The style of the coat should also be considered when determining its length. For example, trenches are typically long, while parkas are designed to be shorter.
• When trying on coats, pay attention to the sleeve length. The sleeves should be long enough to clear the top part of your gloves, providing adequate coverage and warmth.
• If you plan to layer clothing underneath your coat, consider sizing up or choosing a style with a more generous fit. This will ensure that you can move freely and maintain a comfortable range of motion.
• The length of the coat can also be altered by a tailor if needed. However, significant adjustments may affect the placement of pockets and buttonholes, so it is important to consult with a professional before making any changes.
• Ultimately, the length of your wool coat should be guided by your personal preferences and comfort. Choose a length that makes you feel confident and allows you to move with ease.

Sleeve length

The sleeve length of a coat is an important aspect to consider when determining the fit. Here are some tips specifically for sleeve length:

• Sleeves should be long enough to clear the top part of your gloves.
• Long sleeves that finish on the wrist are too short.
• Bracelet-length sleeves finish just above the wrist, while three-quarter-length sleeves should end halfway between the wrist and elbow.
• Overcoat sleeves should be longer than suit jacket sleeves. They should cover the suit jacket sleeves when you move your arms around.
• Overcoat sleeves should be at least 1-2 inches longer than shirt sleeves to ensure protection from the cold and to avoid looking like you borrowed someone else's coat.
• When trying on an overcoat, wear gloves to ensure the sleeves are long enough to overlap the gloves and prevent gaps that let in cold air.
• For a more relaxed silhouette, consider a coat with a 'raglan sleeve', which minimises seams and retains warmth.

Tailoring

Wool coats are a timeless garment, offering both warmth and style. However, an ill-fitting wool coat will not only look unflattering but also fail to protect you from the cold. Therefore, it is essential to ensure your wool coat fits you perfectly, and this is where tailoring comes in.

When it comes to tailoring a wool coat, there are several factors to consider. Firstly, you need to ensure you can move freely in your coat. It should allow you to drive, reach out, and lift your arms without feeling restricted. While a bigger coat can provide more room to move, it may sacrifice the shoulder line and skimming fit. The key is to find a balance between tailoring and comfort.

The length of your wool coat is also crucial. The ideal length depends on your height. For petites, coats that fall at the knee or shorter are most flattering, while taller individuals can pull off various lengths. A coat that ends at the knee is a versatile option as it pairs well with dresses, skirts, and pants.

Sleeve length is another important consideration. The sleeves of your wool coat should be long enough to clear the top part of your gloves. If they end at your wrist, they are too short. Bracelet-length sleeves should finish just above the wrist, while three-quarter-length sleeves should fall halfway between the wrist and elbow.

When tailoring a wool coat, it is essential to work with an experienced tailor who understands the complexities of coat alterations. Coats have multiple structural elements, including a lining, padding, seams, stiffening, and a collar. While shortening the length of the coat, sleeves, or collar is relatively simple, major adjustments like altering the size may be challenging. Significant alterations may require taking apart the coat and sewing it back together, which can impact the pockets and buttonholes.

If your wool coat feels too tight, a tailor can open the coat's lining in the side seams or the bottom, turn it inside out, and pin it to your measurements. They will then sew new seams to fit your figure perfectly and stitch back the lining. On the other hand, making a wool coat bigger is a tricky process as it involves undoing the stitching. Typically, there is only about one centimetre of fabric allowance on each side, allowing for a maximum width increase of around 2.5 centimetres.

In addition to these adjustments, a skilled tailor can also help with specific areas of your wool coat, such as the shoulders, collar, or length, to ensure a perfect fit.

Remember, a well-tailored wool coat will not only make you look stylish but also keep you warm and comfortable during the cold winter months.

Frequently asked questions