Easy Guide: Adding Zippers To T-Shirts

Exposed zippers are a fun and quirky way to add a unique twist to a simple T-shirt. Whether you're looking to upcycle an old T-shirt or add a statement piece to your wardrobe, an exposed zipper can be a great way to achieve a trendy look. In this article, we will discuss the steps to achieve this look and offer some tips and tricks to ensure your zipper is securely attached.

Choosing the right zipper

Type of Zipper

Decide on the type of zipper you want to use. For a T-shirt, you will likely want to use a separating zipper, which opens at the bottom, similar to a jacket zipper. This will allow you to use the zipper to layer your T-shirt over other shirts.

Zipper Length

Ensure that the zipper is at least as long as the front of the T-shirt or longer. If you are adding the zipper to the centre front, measure the length from the hem of the T-shirt to the point where you want the zipper to end. If you are adding it to the side seam, measure the length of the side seam. It is better to have a zipper that is slightly longer than what you need; you can always shorten it if needed.

Zipper Colour and Style

Consider the colour and style of the zipper to complement your T-shirt. You can match the zipper colour to the T-shirt colour for a subtle look, or choose a contrasting colour to make a statement. You can also use a colourful zipper as an accessory to add a fun detail to your outfit.

Zipper Foot

When sewing the zipper to the T-shirt, you will likely need a zipper foot for your sewing machine. A zipper foot is a narrow attachment that allows you to sew close to the zipper teeth. It has a notch on the left for the needle and another on the right, enabling you to create a seam close to the zipper.

Zipper Tape

Check the width of the zipper tape, which is the fabric part of the zipper on either side of the teeth. You will need to ensure that the zipper tape is not too wide for your T-shirt fabric. If the zipper tape is wider than your seam allowance, you may need to adjust your pattern or use a different zipper.

Zipper Teeth

Consider the width and style of the zipper teeth. Choose a zipper with teeth that are an appropriate size for your T-shirt fabric. Smaller teeth will be less visible, while larger teeth can make a bolder statement. You can also choose a concealed or invisible zipper for a more subtle look.

Positioning the zipper

Step 1: Decide on the Zipper Placement

Determine where you want the zipper to be installed on your t-shirt. A popular option is to place it in the front center, but you can also choose a side seam or any other creative placement that suits your style. Mark a straight line on the shirt with garment chalk to indicate the zipper's path. This line will serve as a guide for the next steps.

Step 2: Finish the Edges

Before attaching the zipper, it's essential to prepare the edges of the t-shirt. Fold and pin the cut edges of the shirt under, typically by 1/2". This step gives a polished look to your final product and makes it easier to sew the zipper in place. Use your sewing machine or hand sew these edges securely.

Step 3: Pin the Zipper in Place

Place the zipper face down on the finished edge, aligning the center of the zipper teeth with the center of the open seam. You can use small pieces of tape or pins to hold the zipper in place. If you prefer a more subtle zipper, you can choose to let a little bit of the zipper fabric stick out, or you can align it precisely with the edge of the shirt. Ensure that the zipper is positioned symmetrically and securely before moving on to the next step.

Step 4: Sew the Zipper

Now it's time to sew the zipper in place. Start at the bottom of the zipper and work your way up. Adjust your needle position to the left to avoid breaking it and sew along the right side of the seam. Keep a consistent distance from the zipper teeth as you sew, and don't forget to backstitch at the beginning and end for added strength. Repeat this process for the left side of the zipper, ensuring that your stitches are symmetrical and neat.

Step 5: Unzip and Secure the Zipper

Once you've sewn both sides of the zipper, carefully unzip it and secure the top. You can do this by sewing little stops at the top of the zipper, creating a bump of thread between two teeth to prevent the pull from going past. You can use a zig-zag stitch with a zero stitch length to create these stops.

Now you have successfully positioned and attached the zipper to your t-shirt! You can further enhance the look by folding and sewing the raw edges of the fabric, adding a band to cover any raw edges, or following any creative directions of your choice.

Sewing the zipper

Now that you have prepared your T-shirt and zipper, it's time to start sewing. Here is a step-by-step guide to sewing the zipper into your T-shirt:

Step 1: Pin the Zipper in Place

Place the zipper face-down onto the fabric, aligning the right edge of the zipper with the fabric's edge. Use pins to secure the zipper to the fabric, placing them through both the zipper and fabric every few inches to hold it in place. If your zipper is longer than the fabric's edge, that's okay—you can cut off any excess zipper length later.

Step 2: Prepare Your Sewing Machine

Before you start sewing, move the zipper pull halfway down the teeth to keep it out of the way of your needle. Disconnect the presser foot from your sewing machine and attach the zipper foot. This special foot will allow you to stitch closer to the zipper teeth without any issues.

Step 3: Stitch the Zipper in Place

Starting at the top of the zipper fabric, position your needle about 5/8 inch (1.6 cm) from the edge. Begin stitching by pressing the pedal of your sewing machine, adding a few basic straight stitches. Backstitch to the starting point to secure the thread, and then slowly work your way down the length of the zipper. Remember to remove the pins before the foot crosses over them as you sew.

Step 4: Stitch the Other Side of the Zipper

Lay the second piece of fabric (the T-shirt fabric) face-up on a flat surface. Place the unsewn side of the zipper face-down along the edge of the fabric, just as you did with the first piece. Secure the zipper with pins again. Start stitching from the bottom of the zipper, using a basic straight stitch, and sew up to the top. Don't forget to backstitch at the beginning to secure the thread.

Step 5: Topstitch the Zipper (Optional)

Turn the zipper and fabric over so they are face-up. Topstitching is optional but will give your garment a more finished look. Add a line of topstitching about 1/4–1/2 inch (0.64–1.27 cm) away from each side of the zipper. You can use a complementary or accent colour thread for extra embellishment.

Step 6: Finishing Touches

If you need to shorten your zipper, be sure to do so after sewing. Cut off any excess zipper length, being careful not to cut too close to the stitches. If you're using an open-ended zipper, remember to fold and tuck the extra zipper tape inside the T-shirt before securing it with pins and stitching over it to prevent the slider from falling off.

Finishing the edges

To finish the edges of your T-shirt before adding a zipper, you will need to cut along the line where you want the zipper to be installed. This line should be straight, especially if it is down the centre of the T-shirt.

Next, fold and pin the cut edges of the shirt 1/2" under the shirt. Do this for both edges to make it easier to sew the zipper to the shirt. It will also give it a more polished look. Using your sewing machine, sew the edges down.

If your T-shirt is made from a lightweight fabric, such as knit fabric, you may want to put lightweight strips of interfacing on each side of the fabric after cutting. Interfacing is a type of thin fabric that makes lightweight fabrics stronger and stiffer so they can handle the zipper being opened and closed repeatedly.

Topstitching

When adding a zipper to a T-shirt, topstitching is used to finish sewing the zipper. The stitches holding the zipper in place are not visible from the front, and topstitching gives your garment a more finished look.

To topstitch a zipper, turn the zipper and fabric over so they are face-up. Topstitch a line of thread about 1/4–1/2 inch (0.64–1.27 cm) away from each side of the zipper to add the finishing touches. You can use a thread that is a complementary or accent colour for extra embellishment.

Frequently asked questions