Adding darts to a tank top is a simple alteration that can be done to improve the fit of the garment. Darts are folds in the fabric that help to remove excess fabric and provide a better fit around the body's natural curves. They can be stitched into the tank top to remove bagginess and loose fabric between the shoulder and armpit area. This process can be done by measuring the desired amount of fabric to be removed, marking and cutting the fabric, and then sewing the darts in place. This alteration is especially useful for individuals with larger busts who want a more fitted look to their clothing.
What You'll Learn
Measure the excess fabric between the shoulder and armpit
To add darts to a tank top, you must first measure the excess fabric between the shoulder and armpit. This can be done by pinching up the excess fabric and placing a pin at the outer edge of the tank top, ensuring that the outer edges of the armhole are even. You can then continue to pinch and pin the fabric until you reach the fullest part of the bust, inserting as many pins as needed to achieve the desired fit. It is important to ensure that the fabric is not too tight, as this can cause pulling.
Once you are happy with the fit, the next step is to press the folded edge of the new dart with an iron or a mini iron, being careful not to melt the pinheads. Before removing the pins, it is crucial to measure the distance from the outer edge of the shirt (the armhole) and note how far the pin is placed from the fold of the fabric. This measurement will guide the placement of the dart.
For example, if the measurement from the outer edge to the first pin is 5/8", you would take in 5/8" of fabric at that point. Moving down the shirt, you would repeat this process, measuring the distance from the previous pin to the next, and so on. At 1 3/4" down from the top armhole edge, you would take in 3/8", and at the 3" mark, the dart ends.
After taking the necessary measurements, you can remove the pins and turn the shirt or tank top inside out. This will reveal the pressed line that was created with the iron. With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, you will then pinch the shirt along the fold line, referring to the measurements taken earlier to place the pins for the dart from the inside of the shirt.
In summary, measuring the excess fabric between the shoulder and armpit is a crucial step in adding darts to a tank top. This process involves pinching and pinning the fabric to achieve the desired fit, measuring the placement of the pins, and then using those measurements to guide the dart placement from the inside of the shirt.
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Stitch pie-shaped wedges of fabric to take out the excess fabric
Darts are made by stitching pie-shaped wedges of fabric into a garment to take out the excess fabric and help the garment fit better around the natural curves of the body. They are usually put in during the construction of the garment, but they can also be stitched in afterward.
To add darts to a tank top, first, put the tank top on and pinch the fabric where you want the dart to go. Play around with the placement to find the best spot for you. Then, pin it in place along the line where you'll be sewing. Fold the fabric flat against your body so you can get an idea of how far into the shirt the dart will end. Make a mark at the point where the dart will end. Measure the width of your dart (the distance from the fold to the pin).
Next, take the shirt off and measure the distance from the edge of the shirt to the dart's endpoint. Make a mark along the fold and then remove the pin. Measure the distance from the mark to the new shoulder seam. On the other armhole, start by finding and marking this measurement. Now, fold the shirt at the mark and find the width of the dart, then pin it in place.
Now, while keeping the dart folded, move the pin further away from the dart so that it holds the shirt in place for sewing without being in your way. Sew the dart, starting from the outer edge of the shirt. Make sure the dart's endpoint goes right up against the edge of the fabric. If the seam stops further inward than the edge, you'll end up with a little pocket at the tip of the dart.
Finally, try on the shirt. If it fits well, you can cut off all the excess fabric.
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Position darts horizontally or vertically
When positioning darts horizontally or vertically, it is important to consider the length and position of the darts, as well as the curves of the figure they are being designed for. The number of darts required depends on the number of curves in the figure, and the depth of the darts depends on the size of the person. For example, the bust dart is placed on the side seam of the bodice, with the dart point moving towards the bust point. Usually, the under-arm dart is placed two inches below the armscye and points toward the bust. For a bust size of 30 1/2 to 32 inches, a bust dart of 1/2 inch is recommended; for 32 1/2 -34 inches, a dart size of 3/4 inch is suggested.
Darts can be placed in various positions, including the bust, shoulder, neckline, and waist. The mid-shoulder dart, for instance, begins at a point slightly closer to the neck than halfway along the shoulder seam and ends at the point of the bust. The standard waist dart, on the other hand, starts from the waist and goes up to the bust, creating a fitted bodice that emphasises the bust.
When sewing darts, it is important to press them in certain directions. Horizontal bust darts are generally pressed downwards, while vertical darts, such as those around the waist of skirts or pants, are pressed towards the centre.
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Press the folded edge of the dart with an iron
Now, keeping the pins in place, press the folded edge of the new dart with the tip of an iron or a mini iron. Be careful not to press the heads of the pins as they might melt.
Now, before you take out the pins, measure the distance down from the outer edge of the shirt (the armhole) and write down how far the pin is placed from the fold of the fabric. You don’t want the fabric to be too tight so that it pulls in any direction.
At this stage, you can take out the pins and turn the shirt or dress inside out. You will notice the pressed line you made with the iron. With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, pinch the shirt along the fold line you made with the iron. It will seem odd at first since you are pinching the fold line in the opposite direction that you pressed it in.
Referring to the measurements you took earlier, pin the dart from the inside of the shirt. The fabric should be right sides together at this point. Start by putting a pin in 5/8" away from the folded edge of the new dart. Then, move down the shirt 1 3/4". Put another pin in 3/8" from the folded edge. At the 3" mark, put a pin right on the fold. That tells you where to finish the dart.
Now, just press the dart down toward the hem of the top or dress. If the dart doesn't want to lay flat, you can stitch it down with matching thread.
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Sew the dart, beginning from the outer edge of the shirt
Now, you are ready to sew. Starting from the outer edge of the shirt, sew the dart. Make sure that the dart's endpoint is right against the fabric's edge. If the seam stops further inward than the edge, you will be left with a small pocket at the dart's tip.
You can stitch the dart down with matching thread if it does not lay flat. You will only need to stitch the area between the two pins. When you are finished, the gap will be gone, and the top will fit perfectly.
If you had sleeves on the tank top, it would have been more challenging to make this alteration. This way, your top fits much better in a matter of minutes!
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Frequently asked questions
Darts are folds in the fabric that give a little more shape around curvy parts, such as the bust. They are made by stitching pie-shaped wedges of fabric that take excess fabric out and help the garment fit better around the natural curves of the body.
Most darts are put in during the construction of the garment. However, if you are adding them to a pre-made tank top, you will need to put the tank top on inside out and, while standing in front of a mirror, pinch the fabric where you want the dart to go. Differently sized and shaped breasts will dictate its placement. Play around with the placement to find the best spot for you.
Once you have found the correct placement for your darts, you can mark the fabric with pins. Then, take the tank top off, measure the distance from the edge of the shirt to the dart's endpoint, and mark this with chalk.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, pinch the shirt along the fold line you made with the iron. Pin the dart from the inside of the shirt, using the measurements you took earlier as a guide. Sew the dart, beginning from the outer edge of the shirt, and making sure the dart's endpoint goes right up against the edge of the fabric.
One common mistake is not keeping a "master pattern" of your original garment. This means that if you make a mistake or want to make adjustments, you will have to start from scratch. Another mistake is sewing over pins—you should always take the pins out before sewing over that part of the fabric.