
Whether you want to adjust the height of your t-shirt collar because it's too tight or too loose, there are several methods you can try. If your collar is too tight, you can open the neckband on the seam(s) and thread some light elastic through, being careful not to pull it too tight. If your collar is too loose, you can try removing the ribbing, cutting a bit off the raw edge, and sewing it back on. You can also try taking in the t-shirt at the shoulders, and reattaching the neckband to the shirt on the outside.
What You'll Learn
Remove the neckband and back neck binding
To remove the neckband and back neck binding, you will first need to unpick the collar stand and collar. Shorten the collar stand on the button side, being careful not to disturb the buttonhole. Next, shorten the collar on both sides to maintain symmetry. Then, return the collar to the stand and stitch.
After this, take in the T-shirt at the shoulder seams or by adding darts at the back of the neck, so that the neckline will fit into the shortened stand length. Stitch the stand-and-collar unit to the neckline. There are various orders in which the components can be reattached, so it's worth checking YouTube for guidance on the approach that seems best to you.
This process can also be used to reduce the stand height and/or change the collar shape, which can dramatically alter the appearance of the shirt.
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Take in the T-shirt at the shoulders
To take in a T-shirt at the shoulders, you will need to remove the sleeves, fit the shoulders, and then reattach the sleeves. This process is not recommended for beginners, as it is one of the most difficult parts to adjust when it comes to sleeved garments. The first step is to remove the sleeves by ripping out the seams—do not cut them off. Next, you will need to pin the armhole to see where the new seam should be before cutting. Simply turn the fabric in as if you were making a sleeveless shirt. Baste the new seam and try to reattach the sleeves.
Before cutting any fabric, ensure that you are certain that it is extra—you can trim things down for neatness once you have finished. It is a good idea to practice on a cheap T-shirt first, as your first few attempts may not be perfect.
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Reattach the neckband to the shirt on the outside
To reattach the neckband to the shirt on the outside, you will need to follow these steps:
Firstly, ensure that the neckband is 20% shorter than the circumference of the new neckline. This is crucial to guarantee that the band will lie flat once attached. Stretch the band while pinning it to the neckline at quarter points, ensuring an even stretch. Utilise a zig-zag stitch or serger to attach the band to the shirt, being careful to only stretch the neckband and not the neckline itself.
After securing the neckband, it needs to be flipped to the inside and pressed, using a low heat setting to avoid damaging the fabric. Once pressed, the band should be topstitched on the outside using a zig-zag stitch, twin needle stitch, or cover stitch.
For a professional finish, it is recommended to use a twin-needle, zigzag stitch, or cover stitch machine to topstitch the seam allowance, creating a flat and polished look. Start stitching from the back piece, a few centimetres away from the shoulder seam, and work your way towards the front.
Additionally, consider topstitching the neckband in the opposite direction from how you attached it. For instance, if you sewed the neckband in a counter-clockwise direction, perform the topstitching in a clockwise direction. This technique will prevent draglines and ensure a smooth finish.
Finally, don't forget to reattach the back binding. Practising on a less important t-shirt first is also highly recommended, as perfecting this technique may require some trial and error.
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Ensure the neckband is 20% shorter than the new neckline
When altering the height of a T-shirt collar, it is important to ensure that the neckband is 20% shorter than the new neckline. This is a crucial step to achieve a flat and well-fitting collar. Here are some detailed instructions to help you with this process:
First, measure the new neckline by lining up the edges and measuring the length. Double this measurement to get the total length of the neckline. To ensure the neckband fits snugly, you need to make it 20% shorter than this total length. Calculate this by multiplying the total length by 0.8 or subtracting 20% from the total length. This will give you the ideal length for your neckband.
For example, if your new neckline measures 20 inches, double it to get 40 inches. Multiplying 40 by 0.8 gives you 32 inches, which is the ideal length for your neckband. You can also subtract 20% from 40 to get 32 inches.
Once you have calculated the ideal length, cut your neckband accordingly, adding a seam allowance. Typically, a seam allowance of 0.5 to 1 inch is sufficient. If you want a wider band, you can adjust the width accordingly.
After cutting your neckband to the calculated length, sew the short ends together using a serger or a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. Then, iron the neckband so that the raw edges meet.
Before attaching the neckband, mark both the neckband and the neckline into quarters. For the neckline, bring the shoulder seams together to find the front and back centres and mark them. Then, find the other quarters by bringing these pins together and mark them as well. Repeat this process for the neckband, starting from the back seam.
Now, pin your neckband to the T-shirt, matching the centre backs and the quarter markings. At this stage, you can assess whether any adjustments are needed. If you need to stretch the neckband too much to match the markings, it may be too short, and you might need to cut it a little longer. On the other hand, if it barely stretches from marking to marking, it may be too long, and you should consider cutting it shorter.
Once you are happy with the fit, sew the neckband onto the T-shirt, stretching it to fit as you remove the pins. Press the neckband with steam, if suitable for your fabric, and consider adding a top stitch for a more polished look.
Remember, it is essential to ensure that the neckband is 20% shorter than the new neckline to achieve a flat and secure fit. This rule of thumb will help you create a collar that lies flat and fits comfortably.
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Pin the neckband to the neckline at quarter points
Pinning the neckband to the neckline at quarter points is a crucial step in sewing a collar that fits well. This process, known as the quartering method, involves dividing the neckband into four equal sections and using these points to attach the band to the shirt. This method is commonly used in sewing, particularly when working with knit and woven patterns.
To begin, mark the quarter points on both the neckband and the neckline. On the neckline, the shoulder seams typically serve as quarter points, along with the centre front and centre back. For the neckband, first, fold it with the wrong sides together, and then fold it again to mark the four points. It is important to note that if your shirt has a deep scoop or V-neck, you will need to measure the quarter points of the neckline directly, as the shoulder seams will not align accurately.
Once the quarter points are marked, match them up between the neckband and the neckline, and pin them together. At this stage, you will notice that the neckband is shorter than the neckline, which is intentional. The neckband will be stretched as you sew to match the neckline.
After pinning, you can start sewing the neckband to the neckline using a stretch stitch. Remember to stretch the neckband as you sew to ensure it lies flat and aligns with the neckline. Once sewn, press the neckline to set the seam.
If desired, you can add a topstitch with a stretch stitch just below the neckline seam to help the seam allowances lie flat. This additional step can enhance the overall appearance and durability of the collar.
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Frequently asked questions
You can add a folded band in a complementary or contrasting colour to the inside of the collar. This will make the collar appear more designed and less like an adjustment.
Yes, but it will be a tricky process. You will need to remove the collar and cut it to the right size, then reattach it. You will also need to adjust the shoulder seams of the T-shirt to make the neck smaller.
Yes, you can add collar stays to your collar to increase its height. Collar stays are plastic or metal strips that can be inserted into the opening behind the collar to help hold its shape.