Fixing Unbalanced Hems: A T-Shirt Revamp Guide

T-shirts are a staple in many people's wardrobes, but sometimes they need altering to fit just right. Whether it's a twisted seam, uneven stitching, or a poor fit, there are several ways to alter a T-shirt without needing to buy a new one. This can be done by cutting, sewing, or even with no sewing at all!

How to cut and resize a t-shirt

There are many ways to cut and resize a T-shirt. Here is a guide on how to do it, along with some creative ideas for customising your T-shirt.

Preparation

Before you start cutting and resizing your T-shirt, there are a few things you should do to prepare. Firstly, if you are sewing a new T-shirt, you should wash and dry the fabric. This will pre-shrink it and set the dye, ensuring that the pattern pieces you cut out and sew together are more accurately sized. Secondly, if you are resizing an old T-shirt, you should measure how fitted you want the T-shirt to be. While wearing the T-shirt, measure three spots: the bust, waist, and hips. You can mark these spots with pins and add an extra inch to the measurements to ensure the T-shirt doesn't become too tight.

Cutting

When cutting your T-shirt, make sure you are using sharp fabric scissors. You can also use a ruler to guide a straight line when cutting. If you want to create a racerback tank, cut the sleeves off your T-shirt, starting at least one inch below the armpit. You can also cut the collar off at the stitching, and cut the front of the collar lower for a more feminine touch. If you want to create a shirt with knotted sides, cut off the collar and the bottom hem. Then, cut the sides of the shirt from shoulder to hem, curving the line inward so that it touches your waist measurement marks. You can also cut evenly-spaced slits into the side of the shirt from the hem to the armpit to create ties.

Sewing

If you are sewing a new T-shirt, you should follow a step-by-step guide for sewing. However, if you are resizing an old T-shirt, you will need to sew the sides back together after cutting. For this, you will need a sewing machine that can do a zig-zag stitch or other stretch stitch. Fold the T-shirt in half, making sure to centre any graphics, and check that the side seams are now even. Then, fold the shirt with the right sides together and re-sew the sides and underarm seams.

Creative Ideas

There are many ways to creatively cut and resize a T-shirt. Here are some ideas:

• Cut the collar and sleeves off at the seam for a cut-off look.
• Cut the sleeves off at an angle to create a cap-sleeve look.
• Cut the sleeves off at the seam for a sleeveless look.
• Cut the collar lower to create a scoop neck.
• Cut the collar towards one shoulder to create an off-the-shoulder look.
• Cut the bottom hem off to create a crop top.
• Cut the front of the shirt shorter than the back to create a high-low look.
• Cut the hem shorter along the side seams for a scooped look.
• Cut a V-neck by cutting the front collar lower.

How to sew a t-shirt with a sewing machine

Sewing a T-shirt with a sewing machine is a straightforward process, but it does require some preparation and attention to detail. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you get started:

Step 1: Draft Your Pattern

Find a T-shirt that fits you well and use it as a template. Fold the shirt in half vertically, keeping the front sides out, and lay it on a large piece of paper. Pin along the perimeter, paying close attention to the back neckline and sleeve seams. Then, use a pencil to trace the outline of the shirt. Repeat this process for the front outline, ensuring the front neckline is deeper than the back. Finally, unfold the shirt and flatten out one sleeve, pinning and tracing it separately.

Step 2: Add Seam Allowances and Cut Your Fabric

Use a flexible ruler to add seam allowances to each piece. Typically, a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance is recommended. Label each piece (back body, front body, and sleeve) and mark the fold lines. Carefully cut out each pattern piece.

Step 3: Choose and Prepare Your Fabric

Select a knit fabric for your T-shirt, preferably with a low amount of stretch to make sewing easier. Pre-wash and dry the fabric to pre-shrink it and set the dye. Fold the fabric in half, right-sides facing in, and place your pattern pieces on top. Pin the pattern, trace around it, and cut out the fabric pieces.

Step 4: Prepare the Ribbing

Measure the neckline of your shirt and cut a piece of ribbing knit fabric to that length, subtracting 4 inches (10 cm). Fold the ribbing in half lengthwise and press the fold with an iron. Then, stitch the width ends together using a 1/4-inch (6-mm) seam allowance.

Step 5: Sew the Shoulders and Attach the Ribbing

Place the front and back body pieces together, right-sides facing inward, and pin around the shoulders. Stitch straight across both shoulder seams. Open up the shirt and lay it flat, then pin the ribbing to the neckline, stretching it gently to fit. Sew the ribbing in place using a zigzag stitch and a 1/4-inch seam allowance.

Step 6: Attach the Sleeves

Keep the shirt open and flat, with the right-side facing up. Position the sleeves right-side down, matching the rounded portions of the sleeve and armhole. Pin the middle of both curves together, then work outwards, pinning the rest of the sleeve curve to the armhole. Stitch the sleeves in place using a straight stitch and a 1/2-inch seam allowance.

Step 7: Sew the Sides and Add Hem

Fold the shirt with its right-sides facing and sew down the entire right side, from the underarm to the bottom opening. Repeat on the left side. With the right-sides still facing, fold and pin the bottom edge according to your seam allowance, then stitch around the opening. You can also add sleeve hems if desired, or leave them unfinished if your fabric is fray-resistant.

Step 8: Finish and Press

Turn the shirt right-side out and use an iron to flatten all the seams. Try on your newly sewn T-shirt!

How to fix a twisted seam

Fixing a twisted seam on a t-shirt can be done by cutting the shirt off-grain to remove the twist. This is a simple solution to an annoying problem.

Twisted seams are caused when the side seams of a t-shirt are not cut in line with the vertical columns of the knit fabric. This is not limited to cheap t-shirts, and it can happen with expensive brands as well.

Materials Needed

• Sharp fabric scissors
• A sewing machine that can do a zig-zag stitch or other stretch stitch
• Basic sewing notions – sewing needles, thread, pins, etc.

Step-by-Step Instructions

• Lay the t-shirt out flat, matching the shoulder seams, with the side seam twist evident.
• Cut up the side seam through the sleeve on the shorter side of the seam. Cut to the side of the seam that you can see. Do not cut the side that wraps around to the opposite side of the t-shirt.
• Flip the t-shirt over, keeping it flat, and cut off the excess fabric so that the raw edges of the t-shirt at the side seam are now even. Repeat this process on the other side of the t-shirt.
• Fold the t-shirt in half, making sure to center any graphics. Check that the side seams are now even, and trim if necessary.
• Fold the shirt right sides together and re-sew the sides of the shirt and underarm seams using a stretch stitch.

And that's it! You now have an untwisted shirt.

How to hand-sew a t-shirt

Sewing a T-shirt by hand is a daunting but rewarding task. It is a great way to get into sewing without needing a sewing machine, which can be expensive and inaccessible to some. You can also fix a T-shirt with twisted seams by hand. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to hand-sew a T-shirt.

Step 1: Gather Materials and Cut the Pattern

First, you will need some materials: two T-shirts (one that fits well and one that is too big), sharp fabric scissors, needles, and thread. Then, you can start by laying the bigger shirt flat and placing the smaller shirt on top. Cut the bigger shirt along one side of the smaller shirt, following the seam that joins the arms to the body. Repeat this process on the other side, so you have two symmetrical pieces. You can also trim the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt to your desired length.

Step 2: Join the Sleeves and Torso

Now, lay out the shirt pieces with the inside facing up and the sleeves splayed out, resembling a butterfly with open wings. Sew the centre of the sleeve to the centre of the T-shirt, passing the needle and thread through one or two times and tying a knot. Sew the armpits of the sleeves to the armpits of the shirt, and then sew two or three more connections between the centre of the sleeve and the armpit to temporarily join the sleeves to the shirt.

Next, fold the shirt so that the armpits and hem match up. Sew the bottom hem of the shirt on each side of the torso, and then sew five or six connections between the hem and the armpit to temporarily join the two halves of the shirt. Sew one stitch at the hemline of each sleeve as well.

Step 3: Sew the Seams

Now comes the longest part of the process. You will need to sew the seams, adding a stitch at about every half centimetre. A blanket stitch is a good option for durability and aesthetics. Sew each seam running from the bottom hem of the torso into the armpit and then to the end of each sleeve. Sew the seam that joins the sleeve to the torso of the shirt as well.

Step 4: Try It On and Adjust

Now, you should have a fitted T-shirt! Try it on and see if you are happy with the fit. If there are any problems, now is the time to fix them or make alterations.

Tips for Hand-Sewing a T-Shirt:

• Hand-sewing a T-shirt can be done while doing something else that doesn't require your full attention, like watching a movie or listening to a podcast.
• Use a running backstitch for speed and strength when attaching the interfacing to the facing pieces.
• Flat fell the seams by hand for a clean finish on the inside and an invisible finish on the outside.
• Hem the sleeves and bottom of the shirt using a blind hemming stitch for a seamless finish.
• Use a combination of hand-sewing stitches to make durable garments. For example, combine the running backstitch with the whip stitch.
• Wash and dry the fabric before cutting and sewing to pre-shrink it and set the dye.

How to create a t-shirt pattern

To create a T-shirt pattern, you will need a large piece of paper, a pencil, a ruler, a good-fitting T-shirt, and some scissors. You may also want to use tailor's chalk or an air erasable marker, and some weights or books to hold the pattern in place.

First, fold your T-shirt in half, and lay it flat on top of the paper. Trace around the T-shirt, following the sides, shoulders, back neckline, and bottom hem. Do not trace the arms; instead, fold them up and draw along the line of stitching that connects the arm to the body. Cut out the body piece, and use it as a template to cut an identical piece for the front pattern, cutting the neckline a little lower.

Next, draw around one of the sleeves, following all three edges of the flat sleeve, and the curved seam line. To complete the sleeve pattern, draw a mirror image of the sleeve shape to extend it outwards. Cut out the full sleeve pattern piece.

Now you have your pattern pieces, you need to cut out the fabric for your T-shirt. Place the pattern pieces on top of the fabric, ensuring that the stretch of the jersey fabric is across the width of the T-shirt. Draw around the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk, then cut out the fabric with sharp scissors. You should now have a front piece, a back piece, and two arms.

Now it's time to sew your T-shirt together! Place the two body pieces back-to-back, so the wrong sides are facing out, and pin them together along the shoulders. Sew along the pinned edges, then open out the two pieces and pin, then sew, the arms to the armholes. Finally, sew the side seams and the bottom seam of the arm.

The final step is to add the neckline. Cut a strip of fabric that is 4cm wide and approximately 45cm long, ensuring that it will stretch lengthwise. Press the fabric strip in half with an iron, then pin it to the neckline of the T-shirt, starting at the midpoint of the neck binding with the raw edges of the binding strip and neck hole aligned. Mark a point on the binding strip 10cm to one side of the midpoint, and pin this to the shoulder seam of the neck hole. Repeat this process for the other side of the neckline, then carefully add pins along the neckline, gently stretching the neck binding as you go. Sew along the neck binding, then try on the T-shirt to check that the neckline can stretch over your head.

Frequently asked questions