Attaching Collars To T-Shirts: A Step-By-Step Guide

Sewing a collar onto a T-shirt can be a daunting task, but with the right tools and a good step-by-step guide, it can become a lot easier. The process involves several steps, from cutting out the collar pieces to sewing them together and finally attaching them to the shirt. The first step is to choose a pattern and fabric for the collar, keeping in mind the desired style and colour. The fabric is then cut and prepared by adding interfacing to one of the collar pieces for structure. Next, the collar pieces are sewn together, and the fabric is trimmed to reduce bulk. The collar is then inverted and pressed to create a neat, crisp edge. Finally, the collar is attached to the shirt by lining up the edges and notches and sewing it in place. With careful preparation and attention to detail, anyone can achieve a professional-looking collar on their T-shirt.

Cut out the collar pieces

To cut out the collar pieces, you will need to start by choosing a pattern in the desired style. Collars come in different shapes and sizes, so it is important to select a pattern that includes a collar and follow the instructions carefully. Cut out the paper pattern pieces provided and choose your fabric. Select the fabric you want to use, ensuring you have pre-washed and dried it to avoid misshapen results after the first wash.

Now it's time to cut the fabric. Fold your chosen fabric in half and smooth it out, then lay the paper pattern pieces on top, pinning them in place. Carefully cut the fabric along the edges of the paper pattern. Be sure to cut around any notches included in the pattern, as these will be important for lining up the collar with the neckline later on. Go slowly and carefully to avoid any jagged edges.

At this point, you should also cut out a piece of interfacing for the collar. Interfacing will provide structure and body to your collar. Place the paper pattern on the interfacing and cut out one piece.

Once you have all your pieces cut out, it's time to attach the interfacing to the fabric. Take one of your fabric collar pieces and place it with the wrong side facing up. Place the interfacing on top, with the adhesive side facing down, and cover with a towel or t-shirt. Iron over the interfacing and fabric to connect them, following any instructions provided with the interfacing.

Sew the collar together

Sewing the collar together is a crucial step in the process of attaching a collar to a T-shirt. Here is a detailed, step-by-step guide on how to sew the collar together:

Pin the Collar Pieces: Start by placing one collar piece with the interfacing attached, right-side up. Then, position the other collar piece on top, also with the right side facing up. Line up the edges of the two pieces carefully and pin them together along the short edges and one of the long edges. If one of the long edges has notches, leave this edge unpinned as it will be used to line up with the neckline. Remember to insert pins perpendicular to the fabric edges for easier removal during sewing.

Sew a Straight Stitch: Take the pinned collar pieces to your sewing machine. Begin sewing along one short edge, continuing around the collar until you reach the other pinned edge. Remove the collar from the machine and carefully cut the excess threads. Remove the pins one by one before sewing over each pinned area to avoid damaging your machine. You can use a zigzag stitch instead of a straight stitch for added security.

Trim the Fabric: After sewing the two collar pieces together, use fabric scissors to trim the excess fabric around the outside of the stitches. Cut away the corners of the collar and create a few notches along the long edges to facilitate pressing and shaping the collar. Be cautious not to cut too close to the stitches to avoid accidentally ruining the collar.

Invert the Collar: Use your finger or the eraser end of a pencil to gently turn the collar right-side out. Reach inside the collar and carefully press the fabric around the edges to smooth it out. Be gentle to avoid putting too much pressure and accidentally ripping the seam.

Press the Collar: Place the collar on a flat surface, such as an ironing board or a towel-covered countertop. Use an iron on its lowest setting to press the collar until it is flat and crisp. If the fabric is delicate, place a T-shirt or a thin towel over the collar before ironing to protect it from direct heat.

Optional Edge Stitch: For a more polished look and to help the collar hold its shape, you can add an edge stitch about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) from the secured edges. Sew a straight stitch along the outside of the collar, but be sure to avoid stitching along the side that will be left open.

By following these steps, you will have a well-sewn collar that is ready to be attached to your T-shirt!

Staystitch the neckline

Staystitching is a crucial step in sewing a t-shirt collar as it helps the neckline keep its shape and prevents stretching and distortion. Here is a detailed guide on how to staystitch the neckline:

Firstly, sew the shoulder seams of your t-shirt, joining the front to the back. You can then apply any button bands or finish the front closure edges as instructed by your chosen pattern. Before you attach the collar, you must staystitch the neck edge. This is because the curve of the neckline cuts across the bias, the stretchiest part of the fabric. Staystitching will prevent the fabric from stretching out of shape.

Thread your sewing machine according to the manual's instructions. Set your stitch length to 1.5 as smaller stitches create a stronger hold. Refer to your pattern instructions to determine the seam allowance at the areas you plan to staystitch. The standard is to sew 1/8" away from the sewing line, so if your seam allowance is 5/8", stitch 1/2" away from the raw edge.

For curved areas like necklines, it is important to stitch from the outer edge towards the centre. This will ensure that the staystitching is even on both sides of the garment. So, begin at one shoulder and stitch to the centre front. Then, cut the thread and sew from the second shoulder to the centre front.

Staystitching is a simple yet effective technique. It involves sewing a straight stitch through a single layer of fabric, usually immediately after cutting the fabric. It is most often used around necklines, but can be used anywhere there are curves or diagonal seams that may stretch during the construction process. It is also commonly used on shoulders because they are cut at a slight bias.

Staystitching is typically done on each piece of fabric after they have been cut out but before they are attached to each other. It is a good idea to sew in the same direction on either side of the centre to maintain symmetry.

Prepare the collar and collar stand

Firstly, cut out the relevant pieces for the shirt collar, adding a seam allowance of 3/8 inch (1 cm) along all seams. You will need two collar pieces and two collar stand pieces, so the fabric will be folded to double.

Next, apply interfacing to one of each of the pieces to give them structure. The interfacing should be attached to the wrong side of one collar piece and one collar stand piece. The collar stand with the interfacing will be the one on the outside of the neckline.

Now, transfer the pattern markings to the interfaced side of the collar stand. You can use a felt pen, chalk, coloured pencil or tailor's tacks. Mark the stitching line at either end of the collar stand to help ensure accuracy and symmetry.

For the inner collar stand, press the neckline edge upward along the seam allowance. You can trim this seam allowance down to 1/4".

With right sides together, place the collar pieces on top of each other, and use a fabric marker to mark the corner point of the collar to ensure accuracy when sewing. Stitch along the seam allowance, leaving the seam that will join the collar stand open.

On the wrong side of the collar, snip the corner and trim any excess fabric close to the stitching line. This will reduce bulk when you turn the collar inside out. Turn the collar to its right side and use a bone folder/point turner to push out the collar tip. Mark the corners of the collar with a fabric marker to ensure accuracy when topstitching. This mark should be 3/8 inch (1 cm) away from the seam.

Sew the collar stand edges

To sew the collar stand edges, you will need to stack your two collar stands and collar so that the collar is sandwiched between the stands. The stand should be wrong side up. Align the upper edge of the three pieces.

Sew the upper edge of the two collar stands together. Stitch on the interfaced side so you can follow the guideline you made in the previous step.

Now that the two collar stands and the collar are sewn together, trim the seam allowance to leave 1/8" along the stitching. This way, you won't need to add any notches. Make sure that the two ends match, with a similar curve.

Turn the collar stands right side out and press. The collar will now start to resemble a shirt collar.

You can now attach the collar stand to the shirt neck edge, matching dots and notches. You may need to clip the seam allowance on the shirt. Ensure that you match the endpoints so that the end of the collar stand lines up with the edge of the shirt front.

Sew the collar stand to the shirt. Be careful not to catch the inner collar stand in this stitching, as this will be completed in the next step.

Frequently asked questions