Choosing A Sport Coat: Fit, Fabric, Style

Choosing a sports coat can be a complicated fashion exercise, but it's a staple of the masculine wardrobe and worth investing in. The first step is to measure yourself – you'll need to know your neck size, shoulder width, chest circumference, and sleeve length. Next, you'll want to identify the kind of jacket you want. There are three main types: blazers, which are structured and usually solid-coloured; sport jackets, which are looser and unstructured; and suit jackets, which are sleek and designed to be worn with matching trousers.

You'll also need to select a colour, pattern, fabric, lapel style, pocket style, and button style. For example, a brown corduroy sports jacket with notch lapels, leather buttons, and flap pockets. Once you've narrowed down these details, you can start shopping. You'll need to decide on the type of tailoring and construction you want and the type of store you want to buy from. Then, it's just a matter of trying things on and finding the jacket that suits you best.

Choosing the right fabric

When choosing the right fabric for a sports coat, it's important to consider the season and the level of formality of the occasion. Sports coats are available in a variety of fabrics, from lightweight options like cotton and linen to heavier fabrics such as suede, denim, leather, tweed, and corduroy. Here are some tips to help you choose the right fabric:

• Seasonal Fabric Choices: Opt for a lightweight fabric such as cotton or linen during the spring and summer months. For autumn and winter, choose a heavier fabric like tweed or corduroy to keep you warm.
• Fabric Texture: Consider the texture of the fabric. A casual sport coat typically features a thicker, coarser texture, while a more refined and dressy sport coat has a smoother, finer finish.
• Colour and Pattern: While sports coats come in various colours and patterns, it's advisable to go with neutral colours such as charcoal grey, taupe, or beige. These colours offer a timeless and classic look that complements various styles and occasions.
• Fabric and Fit: The fabric and fit of your sport coat should align with the formality of the occasion. For a casual occasion, a thicker, textured fabric with a looser fit is suitable. In contrast, a more refined or dressy event calls for a smoother, finer fabric with a structured fit.
• Fabric and Trouser Combination: When pairing your sport coat with trousers, consider the weight and colour of the fabric. A lightweight sport coat pairs well with lighter-coloured trousers, while a heavier sport coat complements thicker, chunkier trousers. Ensure that the colours of the sport coat and trousers complement each other without being too matchy.
• Fabric and Layering: If you plan to layer your sport coat with a sweater or an overcoat, opt for a thicker, textured fabric that can withstand the additional layers without looking out of place.

Selecting the right colour

First, consider the colour temperature of the coat. This refers to whether a colour feels warm or cold, and it's important for pairing your sport coat with trousers. For example, a cold-coloured brown sport coat, such as taupe, would pair well with stone or cream-coloured trousers. On the other hand, a warm-coloured brown sport coat, such as terracotta, would pair better with yellowish trousers.

Another factor to consider is the intensity or brightness of the colour. A bright blue sport coat, for instance, would go well with trousers in a similar colour family but with a slightly warmer, yellowish tone.

If you're looking for a versatile option that will pair well with a variety of trousers, consider a navy blazer. Navy blazers are sharp, masculine, and can be worn year-round with just about anything, from jeans to wool trousers. They are considered slightly more formal than other sport coats, so if you're looking for something more casual, you might want to choose a different colour or style.

For a more laid-back option, consider a hopsack sport coat in brown or grey. The basket weave of this wool coat gives it a coarser texture and a sporty feel that pairs well with jeans. It's also lightweight and breathable, making it suitable for multiple seasons.

If you live in a colder climate, invest in a thick, textured winter sport coat made from fabrics like tweed or corduroy. These coats come in various patterns and colours, but a solid colour or a very subtle pattern like herringbone is recommended for versatility. Brown or grey are good colour choices that will go with most things in your wardrobe.

For warmer climates, opt for a lightweight, open-weave cotton or cotton-blend sport coat in bright, bold colours and patterns. Blue and white is a classic summer colour combination, and you can add interest with patterns like gingham check.

Remember, these are just guidelines, and you can always trust your eye and choose the colours that appeal to you.

Getting the right fit

Shoulder Fit

The shoulders of the jacket should align with your own, with a well-defined angle and no creasing or excess fabric. This is one of the most important factors in determining the fit of a sports coat.

Body Fit

The blazer should have a smooth outline that follows the curve of your hip bones. There should be minimal creasing on the back and collar. A good test is to ensure you can fit a fist between the centre of the jacket and your body.

Length

When standing with relaxed arms, the ideal length of the sports coat should reach the middle of your hand. The sleeves should show approximately 1 cm of the shirt cuff when your arms are straight and 2-3 cm when bent for a handshake.

Fabric and Lining

The weight and lining of the fabric will depend on the season. For fall or winter, opt for thicker, textured fabrics like tweed or corduroy, which offer warmth and style. In contrast, summer calls for lightweight, breathable fabrics such as cotton, linen, or seersucker.

Construction and Fit

The construction of the sports coat can vary depending on the desired weight and breathability. For a lighter coat, consider an unstructured or half-lined design. If you prioritise drape and structure, opt for a full canvas construction and full lining. Additionally, consider what you'll wear underneath, as thicker layers may require a slightly roomier fit.

Picking the right buttons

When it comes to choosing the right buttons for your sport coat, there are a few things to consider. Firstly, it's important to understand the different types of buttons and the impact they can have on the overall look and feel of the jacket. Here are some guidelines to help you pick the perfect buttons for your sport coat:

Button Material

The material of the buttons can significantly impact the overall aesthetic of the sport coat. Common materials for buttons include plastic, mother-of-pearl, and metal. Plastic buttons can be a good choice if you want them to blend in with the fabric, as they can be matched to the colour of the coat. Mother-of-pearl buttons add a touch of elegance and sophistication, making them a popular choice for more formal occasions. Metal buttons, on the other hand, can dial up the formality even further and are ideal if you want to designate your sport coat as a "classy" jacket.

Button Size

The size of the buttons should be proportional to the lapels and overall size of the sport coat. As a general rule, larger buttons work well with wider lapels, while smaller buttons complement narrower lapels. Additionally, the size of the buttons can affect the visual weight of the jacket. For example, larger buttons can make a bold statement and draw attention to the coat, while smaller buttons might create a more subtle and understated look.

Button Colour

When choosing the colour of your buttons, consider whether you want them to blend in or stand out. Matching the button colour to the fabric can create a cohesive and understated look. On the other hand, opting for a contrasting colour can add a pop of interest and make the buttons a focal point. If you're going for a more versatile sport coat, muted button colours can give it a more casual appearance.

Button Style

Buttons come in various styles, such as the standard round or spherical shape, as well as more unique shapes like square, rectangular, or barrel-shaped. The style you choose can be based on your personal preference and the overall look you want to achieve. For example, traditional round buttons are classic and versatile, while square or rectangular buttons can add a modern or edgy twist to your sport coat.

Button Placement

The placement of the buttons is crucial and can affect the overall silhouette of the sport coat. For single-breasted jackets, the standard placement is one, two, or three buttons. The number of buttons can influence the length of the jacket and the way it fits around the hips. Double-breasted jackets, on the other hand, typically have more buttons and create a different silhouette. Understanding the rules for buttoning each style is essential for achieving a polished look.

Knowing when to wear one

Knowing when to wear a sport coat is essential to pulling off a stylish look. Here are some tips on when to wear one:

Business Casual Attire

Sport coats are perfect for business casual attire. They enhance your appearance and give you a sharper look. For example, a sport coat with a grey or brown pattern can be matched with various other garments and is therefore very versatile. In a business casual setting, a sport coat won't make you look overdressed or overly formal.

Informal Social Events Attire

When invited to social events with vague or unspecified dress codes, a sport coat is a safe choice. It shows respect for your host and always makes a good impression. While you may be the only one wearing a jacket, it demonstrates that you care enough to dress up. However, if you feel out of place, you can always take it off.

Semi-formal Occasions

Sport coats are versatile for everyday wear, but they can also be dressed up for semi-formal occasions. Depending on your workplace, a sport coat may be acceptable for work and social events afterward. Good colours for social events include beige, brown, cream, khaki, tan, and white, as the lighter colours are less formal.

When Not to Wear a Sport Coat

For formal events, a sport coat may be less suitable, and a suit jacket or blazer is preferable. Sport coats are also not designed for business wear, so they may not be appropriate for important meetings or presentations.

In summary, sport coats are ideal for business casual and informal social events. They can also be dressed up for semi-formal occasions but may not be the best choice for formal events or business meetings.

Frequently asked questions