Fuchsia
Coating bare metal is an important process to prevent rusting and corrosion. While the industrial look of unpainted steel is popular, steel will rust over time, so sealing off the metal is crucial. Even if you want a rusty look, unsealed steel will turn brown-orange and make a mess. There are various ways to coat bare metal, including clear coating, galvanizing, painting, and using a penetrating oil like Penetrol.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Reason for coating bare metal | To prevent rusting and to maintain the bare metal look |
| Coating methods | Clear coat, galvanizing, electroplating, waxing, lubricating, polishing, painting, burning oil or beeswax finish |
| Products | Penetrol, Krylon, Copy Cad, Everbrite, Evaporust, Renaissance Wax, Blue Magic polish, Ceracote sprays, Rub'n Buff, Johnson Paste Wax, Permalac, Sculpt Nouveau's Everclear, Owatrol Oil, Endura, Sculpt Nouveau's Everclear, Dupli-Color Clear Coat Matte Enamel, Acrylic and 2pac clear coats, Boiled linseed oil, Lacquer clear coat |
What You'll Learn
Clear coat
Preparation:
Before applying any clear coat, it is crucial to properly prepare the metal surface. This includes thoroughly cleaning and degreasing the metal to remove any dirt, oil, or residue. Using a wire brush or sandblasting can help achieve a smooth and clean surface. Additionally, ensuring the metal is completely dry by heating it up and allowing it to cool before coating can help prevent moisture-related issues.
Choosing the Right Clear Coat:
The choice of clear coat depends on the desired finish and the intended application. For a natural, brushed steel look, clear enamel or satin clear coats are recommended. Automotive clear coats designed for hot rods can also provide a clear finish without adding colour. If the item will be exposed to sunlight, choosing a product with UV protection is essential to prevent yellowing and degradation. Marine-grade clear coats or those with UV blockers can be ideal for outdoor use.
Application:
When applying the clear coat, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Multiple light coats are generally recommended to avoid running and ensure an even finish. Clear coats can be applied using spray cans, brushes, or rollers, depending on the product and the size of the project. For larger projects or more durable results, powder coating or two-part epoxy coatings applied with a spray gun may be necessary.
Maintenance:
Alternative Methods:
If clear coating is not suitable or desired, there are alternative methods to protect bare metal. These include using bee wax, carnuba wax, or car wax, as well as specialised rust-prevention products such as INOX or Boeshield. For a more natural look, wire brushing or wire wheeling can be used to polish the metal to its original finish, though this method may be tedious.
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Lacquer or polyurethane
Lacquer and polyurethane are both suitable for coating metal, but polyurethane is the better option.
Lacquer
Lacquer is a resin-based sealant that dries faster than polyurethane. However, it is not as durable and can be susceptible to scratches. Lacquer is often recommended for wooden surfaces, but it can also be used on metal.
Polyurethane
Polyurethane is a reliable plastic material used as a coating ingredient. It is a perfect sealant to protect metal from corrosion and moisture. It has hard and non-toxic ingredients, making it a strong adhesive that can withstand impact, moisture, and the elements. Polyurethane is also resistant to alcohol and chemical formulations.
When it comes to application, both lacquer and polyurethane can be applied in different ways, such as brush-on, spray-on, or wipe-on methods. However, spray paint is generally faster and requires fewer coats than a paintbrush.
Oil-based vs Water-based Polyurethane
Both types of polyurethane can be used on metal surfaces, but they have different characteristics. Oil-based poly takes longer to dry but results in a smoother and more refined finish. It is also more durable and lasts longer on metal than water-based poly.
On the other hand, water-based poly is more eco-friendly due to its lower VOCs. It dries faster, usually within 2 to 3 hours, compared to 8 to 12 hours for oil-based poly.
Tips for Applying Polyurethane on Metal
- Prepare the work area by clearing dust and ventilating the area to avoid inhaling toxic fumes.
- Clean the metal surface by removing any old lacquer, shellac, wax, varnish, or paint.
- Apply a primer as polyurethane does not adhere well to smooth metal surfaces directly.
- Sand the surface with fine sandpaper (180- or 320-grit) to level it and create a smooth finish.
- Wipe off the surface with a lint-free cloth soaked in mineral spirits for oil-based poly or denatured ethanol for water-based poly.
- Stir the poly paint can vigorously before use and apply it to the metal surface using the desired method (brush, spray, or wipe-on).
- Allow the coat to dry, with water-based poly taking 8 to 10 hours and oil-based poly taking 24 to 48 hours.
- Sand the surface again with coarser sandpaper (320- or 400-grit) to remove scratches, brushstrokes, bubbles, runs, and dips.
- Apply a second coat of poly and repeat the drying and sanding process.
Best Polyurethane Products for Metal
- TotalBoat Wet Edge Marine Polyurethane: This product provides maximum protection against UV, scratch, water, chemicals, and elements. It is marine-grade and has excellent abrasion resistance, making it ideal for high-wear metal surfaces.
- Rust-Oleum Ultimate Oil-Based Spar Urethane: Formulated to resist UV light and sun rays, this poly product is perfect for outdoor metal furniture. It is moisture-resistant, waterproof, and protected against eco factors.
- Minwax Polyurethane: This poly is designed not to have a hard-drying surface, making it ideal for metal surfaces as scratches won't be easily noticeable.
In conclusion, while lacquer can be used to coat metal, polyurethane is a superior option due to its durability, resistance to scratches, and protective qualities.
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Penetrol
For best results, Penetrol should be applied liberally and steel wooled smooth, repeating up to five times. After priming with Penetrol, a top coat is still necessary. However, for optimal results, some Penetrol can be added to the top coat.
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Wax
There are two types of waxes: those that come diluted with a carrier and are in liquid or paste form, and those that are basic blocks of wax. The first type is applied much like shoe polish: rub on the metal, let it harden, and then polish to remove the excess. The second type is applied using heat.
- Clean and dry the metal surface to remove any grease or oil. This can be done using mineral spirits or wire brushes.
- Drive out any moisture from the metal surface. This can be done using a Mapp gas torch or a heat gun on a low setting.
- Apply the wax. For diluted waxes, simply rub them onto the metal surface. For block waxes, heat the metal above the melting point of the wax using a hairdryer or heat gun, and then rub the wax onto the warmed metal.
- Remove any excess wax using a rag.
- Allow the wax to cool and harden.
- Buff the waxed surface using a clean cloth to achieve the desired shine.
- Reapply wax as needed to maintain the finish.
Some popular wax products for coating bare metal include Renaissance Wax, Johnson's Paste Wax, Butcher's Wax, and Briwax. It is important to note that wax does not bind with the metal, so it must be periodically reapplied to maintain protection.
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Galvanization
To begin the galvanization process, the surface of the metal must be prepared. This includes removing dirt, grease, and other contaminants through degreasing in a hot alkali solution or acidic baths. The steel is then pickled in a diluted acidic solution to remove any mill scales and rust buildup. Some companies may also use abrasive cleaning methods, such as air blasting sand or metallic shot. The final step in surface preparation is fluxing, which eliminates oxides and creates a protective coating to prevent the formation of additional oxides.
Once the surface is prepared, the metal is submerged in a bath of molten zinc at approximately 830° F. A metallurgical reaction occurs between the iron in the steel and the molten zinc, forming a protective layer. The metal is then removed from the bath, drained, and cooled. This process can take up to 10 minutes, depending on the size and thickness of the material.
After galvanization, a post-treatment coating may be applied through a process called quenching, where the steel is dipped in water and chemicals to create an additional protective layer. Finishing steps may include grinding off zinc drips to achieve a smooth finish. The coating thickness, weight, and appearance are then meticulously analyzed to ensure they meet the proper standards.
Galvanized steel can last for many decades, especially when supplemented with paint coatings and additional sacrificial anodes. It is commonly used in construction for street furniture, building frameworks, balconies, staircases, and more.
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Frequently asked questions
There are several ways to coat bare metal. You can use a clear coat, wax, or a lubricant like WD-40. You can also use a penetrating oil like Gibbs Brand, which prevents oxidation and removes rust.
It depends on the type of metal and the desired finish. For a durable finish, clear powder coating is recommended. However, it can be expensive and may turn yellow. Other options include lacquer, polyurethane, or clear rustoleum.
Yes, but it is important to properly prepare the metal surface by sanding and removing any rust or old paint. You can use a clear coat over the paint for additional protection.
You can use a burned oil or beeswax finish, which can give a similar look to a seasoned cast-iron pan. You can also try electroplating or galvanizing the metal.
Rust forms when metal comes into contact with oxygen and water. To prevent rust, you can use a coating that creates a barrier, such as clear coat, lacquer, or penetrating oil. Regular maintenance and reapplication of the coating may be necessary to prevent rust over time.
