The Ultimate Guide To Drying T-Shirts

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Sewing stretch knit fabrics

Understanding Knit Fabrics

Knit fabrics are made up of interlocking loops of fibres, which give them their stretch and flexibility. They can stretch in different directions, so it's important to know the stretch type and amount before choosing a pattern. Most patterns will specify the required stretch and direction, so ensure you lay out your pattern pieces accordingly.

Needles and Stitches

When sewing stretch knit fabrics, it's best to use a ballpoint or stretch needle. Ballpoint needles have a dull tip that slides between the fibres of the fabric without damaging it. Stretch needles are ideal for very stretchy fabrics, like those used for swimsuits. You can also use a twin needle, which creates a seam that stretches with the fabric and gives a professional finish.

Additionally, it's important to use the right type of stitch. Most sewing machines have a stretch stitch option, which allows the seam to stretch with the fabric. If your machine doesn't have this feature, you can use a narrow zigzag stitch instead.

Working with Your Sewing Machine

When sewing stretch knit fabrics, always let the feed dog guide the fabric under the needle. Avoid pulling or stretching the fabric as you sew, as this can cause wavy or curled seams. Adjust the pressure on the presser foot as needed, and refer to your sewing machine manual for guidance. Basting can also be helpful to hold the fabric in place and prevent twisting.

Stabilising Seams

While the stretch of knit fabrics is a benefit for certain projects, there are times when you want to prevent stretching, such as in shoulder seams. To stabilise these areas, you can use twill tape or lightweight interfacing that extends slightly beyond the seam allowance. Finishing your seams with a seam finish will also help stabilise them and prevent the seam allowance from curling.

With these tips in mind, you'll be well on your way to successfully sewing stretch knit fabrics!

Using the right stitch

When it comes to "daking" a T-shirt, using the right stitch is crucial. Here are some detailed instructions and tips to guide you through the process:

Choosing the Right Stitch

The type of stitch you use will determine how well your T-shirt holds up over time. The goal is to ensure that your stitches don't pop when you stretch the fabric. If you have a serger, that's a great option for sewing knits. However, you can also achieve excellent results without one.

Stretch Stitch

Most sewing machines have a stretch stitch that looks like a lightning bolt. This stitch is specifically designed for sewing knit fabrics. It allows the fabric to retain its stretch when pulled, ensuring that your T-shirt can be worn comfortably without popping stitches.

Double-Stitched Seams

If you don't have access to a serger or a stretch stitch, don't worry. You can create durable seams by using the "double-stitched seams" technique. Simply sew your normal straight stitch, and then sew a second time, 1/8" inside of the first stitching. After that, trim the excess fabric close to the second stitching. This method is straightforward and effective, ensuring that your T-shirt seams lie flat and don't pucker.

Sewing Machine Needle

In addition to choosing the right stitch, selecting the appropriate sewing machine needle is essential. When sewing with knit fabrics, it's best to use ballpoint needles. These needles are designed to prevent skipped stitches, which can be a common issue when working with stretchy materials.

Walking Foot Attachment

If you're working with a slinkier knit fabric, consider attaching a walking foot to your sewing machine. This attachment helps feed the fabric through smoothly, preventing it from stretching out of proportion as you sew.

Using the right sewing machine needle

When it comes to sewing T-shirts, using the right sewing machine needle is crucial. Sewing machine needles come in various types and sizes, each suited for specific fabrics and threads. Here are some guidelines to help you choose the right needle for your T-shirt project:

Needle Types:

• Universal Needles: These are the most commonly used needles and can be used with woven fabrics, synthetics, and some knit fabrics. Finer universal needles are for lightweight fabrics, while larger sizes are meant for medium to heavyweight fabrics. Polyester, cotton, or silk threads work well with universal needles.
• Ball Point Needles: Ball point needles have a rounded tip that pushes fabric fibers apart rather than cutting them. This makes them ideal for rib knits, interlock, cotton knits, fleece, and double knit fabrics. Polyester or polyester/cotton blend threads are best suited for these needles.
• Stretch Needles: Stretch needles have a 'scarf' that allows extra room for the hook to pass by, preventing skipped stitches. They are perfect for Lycra, power net, two-way stretch knits, silk jersey, spandex, and highly elasticated synthetic fabrics. Polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester threads are recommended for stretch needles.
• Sharps Needles: Sharps needles are designed for quilters working with multiple layers of cotton and wadding or densely woven fabrics like silk and microfiber. Their stronger shaft and sharp point help avoid needle bending and breakage while producing smooth buttonholes.
• Jeans/Denim Needles: As the name suggests, these needles are ideal for denim, but they also work for other densely woven fabrics like heavy twill, canvas, and heavy linens. Jeans needles have a sharp point and a sturdy shank to prevent bending or breakage when piercing heavy fabric. Synthetic, polyester blend, or cotton-wrapped polyester threads are recommended.
• Leather Needles: Leather needles, also known as chisel-point needles, have a point that resembles and acts like a chisel. They are meant for use with genuine leather, suede, and challenging projects but should not be used with synthetic leather or suede.
• Metafil/Metallic Needles: These needles have an extra-large eye, making them perfect for sewing or embroidering with metallic or rayon threads on woven or knitted fabrics. The large eye also makes threading easier.
• Embroidery Needles: Embroidery needles feature a wider eye to accommodate threads like rayon, polyester, or cotton machine embroidery threads. This design reduces missed stitches by minimising the movement of the fabric during the fast-moving embroidery stitch.
• Topstitch Needles: Topstitch needles have an extra-sharp point that can pierce all types of fabric easily, and their large eye allows for thick topstitching thread.
• Twin/Triple Needles: Twin and triple needles are used for pin tucking and decorative stitches and must be used at reduced speeds. They are not compatible with all machines, so check your manual before using them.
• Wing Needles: Wing needles create holes in the fabric to replicate drawn thread work. They are meant for natural fibre fabrics like cotton.

Needle Sizes:

Needle sizes are indicated by two numbers, one for European sizing and the other for American sizing. European sizes range from 60 (finest) to 120 (largest), while American sizes range from 8 to 18. For T-shirts, you'll typically use a finer needle for lightweight fabrics and a larger needle for medium to heavyweight fabrics. A good rule of thumb is to replace your needle after every project or every eight hours of use.

Tips for choosing fabrics

When choosing a fabric for your T-shirt, it's important to consider the desired level of comfort, durability, breathability, cost, and intended use. Here are some tips to help you select the best fabric for your needs:

• Natural vs Synthetic Fabrics: Natural fabrics such as cotton, linen, and bamboo offer breathability and comfort, while synthetic materials like polyester and spandex are known for their durability. Consider the benefits of each type of fabric and choose the one that aligns with your priorities.
• Blended Fabrics: Blended fabrics, like cotton-polyester or cotton-spandex, offer the best of both worlds. They combine natural and synthetic fibers to enhance durability, stretch, and comfort. Blended fabrics can be more affordable and provide a healthy balance between breathability and durability.
• Fabric Weight and Texture: Consider the weight of the fabric, which is typically measured in GSM (grams per square meter). Lightweight fabrics (around 100-150 GSM) are ideal for hot climates as they are thinner and more breathable. Heavyweight fabrics (200+ GSM) are thicker and more durable, perfect for workwear. Also, consider the texture and weave of the fabric. For example, cotton can come in a soft twill or sturdy denim.
• Comfort and Feel: Choose a fabric that feels soft and gentle against your skin. Natural fibers like cotton are generally softer and more breathable than synthetic ones. Try different fabrics to determine which ones feel most comfortable to you.
• Durability and Longevity: If you're looking for a T-shirt that will last, opt for high-quality fabrics like combed cotton or blended materials. These fabrics maintain their shape and colour over time, offering better value for money.
• Climate and Intended Use: Consider the climate and how you plan to use the T-shirt. For hot weather, choose lightweight and breathable fabrics like cotton or linen. If you need a T-shirt for athletic activities, look for moisture-wicking fabrics. For casual wear, prioritize comfort and style.
• Print Compatibility: If you plan to print designs on your T-shirt, choose fabrics with a smooth surface, like cotton or polyester blends. These fabrics absorb ink better and maintain print quality over time.
• Cost: Fabric costs vary depending on the type, quality, and brand. Compare prices and consider your budget when making your selection.

Sewing a neckband

Preparation

Before you begin, ensure you have the right tools. You will need a ballpoint or stretch needle for your sewing machine, and set the stitch length to slightly longer than a straight stitch. Stretch thread is highly recommended, but if you don't have any, set your machine to a long, narrow zig-zag stitch and use standard polyester thread.

Measure and Cut the Neckband

Measure around the neckline with a measuring tape. The neckband should be cut to be a bit shorter than this measurement—generally around 70-75% of the neckline circumference for a regular crew neck T-shirt. The neckband should be shorter to ensure it stretches to fit the neck hole neatly. The width of the neckband should be around 2.5 cm (1") plus seam allowances. Remember that the more stretch the rib knit has, the shorter the neckband piece should be. For a super-stretchy rib knit, you may need to cut the neckband to less than 70% of the neckline circumference.

Sew the Neckband

Sew the ends of the neckband together with a 1/4" seam, then press the seam apart. Now, fold the neckband in half along its entire length, so it's double-layered, and press to create a crease down the middle.

Attach the Neckband to the T-shirt

Pin or clip the neckband to the right side (outside) of the T-shirt, around the neck hole. The two raw edges of the neckband should line up with the edge of the neck hole. Stretch the neckband out evenly around the neck hole as you attach it. Remember, the neckband should be shorter than the neck hole, so stretch it evenly as you go.

Finish the Seam

Press the neckband flat, using a low heat setting on your iron. Test the fabric first to ensure it can tolerate the heat. To create a more professional-looking finish, you can topstitch the seam allowance. Use a twin-needle, zig-zag stitch, or a coverstitch machine for this.

Tips

• If your T-shirt has a scoop neck, stretch the neckband more at the curviest places (e.g. the bottom) and less where the curves are less pronounced.
• If using self-fabric (jersey) instead of rib knit, the neckband should be longer and narrower than a pattern piece for rib knit, as jersey has less stretch. Opt for around 80% length and around 2 cm (3/4") folded width.
• If you want the inside of your neckband to look neat, you can cover the seam with a decorative band.

Frequently asked questions