Authenticating Vintage T-Shirts: A Guide To Dating Your Tee

how to date a vintage t shirt

Vintage clothing is a great way to add unique, stylish pieces to your wardrobe. But how do you know if a T-shirt is truly vintage? Here are some tips to help you identify and date a vintage T-shirt:

1. Stitching: Single-stitch sleeves are commonly found on vintage T-shirts and mostly fell out of production in the mid-1990s. If your T-shirt has two rows of stitching on the hem of the sleeves (double stitching), it is likely a modern shirt.

2. Clothing Tags: These can be a quick and easy way to identify vintage T-shirts. If the tag is legible and mentions Made in the USA, it likely dates from the 1980s or earlier, as most major manufacturers moved production overseas in the mid-1990s. If the tag is printed directly onto the shirt, it is not vintage.

3. Copyright Year: Look for a copyright year on the label, which can give you an estimate of the production year. For example, a label that says © 1978 likely indicates the garment was made around that time or within a few years.

4. Country of Origin: The absence of a country of origin or the presence of a country that no longer exists can be an indicator of vintage. For example, clothing labelled Made in the British Crown Colonies of Hong Kong predates 1997.

5. Union Tags: The presence of union tags, such as those from the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union (ILGWU), can indicate a vintage piece, typically from the 1920s to 1980s. The design of these tags changed over time, so comparing the tag design can help narrow down the age.

6. Fabric Composition: Vintage T-shirts often feature 100% composition fabrics, while modern T-shirts often use fabric blends. However, this is not a hard rule, as some modern brands also use unblended fabrics.

7. Zippers: Most clothing made after 1965 will have plastic zippers, so a metal zipper can be an indicator of a vintage T-shirt.

8. Handmade Details: If the T-shirt is handmade, with fabric edges cut with pinking shears, it is likely vintage.

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Check for single stitch sleeves

Single stitch sleeves are a common feature of vintage t-shirts. This style of stitching fell out of production in the mid-90s, so if your t-shirt has two rows of stitching on the hem of the sleeves (double stitching), it is likely to be a modern shirt.

Single stitch sleeves are created using a single line of thread, which is worked into the t-shirt to secure the fabric edge. This style of stitching is usually found on the sleeves, cuffs, hems, and shoulders of the t-shirt. It is also known as a blind stitch, as the t-shirt is sewn together inside out, leaving a unique finish where the stitch can hardly be seen.

Single stitch t-shirts were the preferred method of manufacture during the 1980s and 1990s. The style fell out of popularity in the late 90s and early 00s, as the stitch would fully unravel if caught or snapped. However, single stitch t-shirts are still desirable, as they are often made from a softer fabric that does not hold creases, and they have stronger joints with encapsulated raw edges.

If you are checking a tank top or sleeveless shirt, you can use the bottom hem line to check for single stitching instead of the sleeve. It is also important to note that some current brands are manufacturing shirts with single stitch sleeves, so be sure to check using one of the other methods described to ensure your tee is authentic vintage.

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Inspect clothing tags

Inspecting clothing tags is an important step in determining the authenticity and age of vintage t-shirts. Here are some tips to help you inspect clothing tags:

  • Look for a copyright year: The copyright year is usually found on the tag or a small attached tag. It indicates the year the design was copyrighted, which can give you a rough estimate of the t-shirt's production year. However, be cautious as the copyright year may refer to the brand and not the specific design.
  • Check for "Made in USA" or "Made in Mexico": The presence of "Made in USA" or an American flag on the tag suggests the t-shirt is likely from the 1980s or earlier, as domestic textile production declined after the 1970s. On the other hand, "Made in Mexico" or "Hecho en México" indicates the t-shirt is likely from the 1950s, when travel to Mexico became popular.
  • Union tags: Union tags, such as those from the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union (ILGWU), can provide a broad timeframe for your t-shirt. For example, ILGWU tags were used from the 1920s to the 1980s, but you can narrow down the date further by looking for specific union logos or phrases used during certain periods.
  • Half sizes: The presence of half sizes, such as "16 1/2", indicates the t-shirt is likely from the 1940s to the 1970s. Half sizes were introduced to accommodate shorter women and often indicated shorter lengths and narrower measurements.
  • Lot numbers: Lot numbers, such as "Lot 12345", were commonly used in the 1970s to keep track of garments produced in factories. If you see a lot number, it's likely the t-shirt is from the 1970s or earlier.
  • Address without a zip code: If the tag includes an address without a zip code, it suggests the t-shirt is from before 1963, when zip codes were introduced in the US.
  • Woolmark: The presence or absence of a Woolmark logo can help date your t-shirt. No Woolmark and made of wool indicates it's pre-1939. The first Woolmark logo (100% wool) dates it to 1964 or later, while the Woolmark Blend logo (60% wool) dates it to before 1971.
  • Material brand names: Unusual material names or brands can be indicative of the era. For example, Qiana Nylon (1968-1970s), Dacron Polyester (1958-1970), and Orlon (acrylic, 1950s) are some brands to look out for.
  • Countries that no longer exist: If the t-shirt is made in a country that no longer exists, such as "Yugoslavia", it provides a clue about its age. For example, Yugoslavia split into several countries in the early 1990s, so a t-shirt made in Yugoslavia is likely from before 1992.

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Look for country of origin

When it comes to dating vintage clothing, the country of origin is a key indicator of its age. Here are some tips to help you identify the country of manufacture and narrow down the time period of your vintage T-shirt:

  • Look for "Made in USA" or an American flag design: Clothing with "Made in USA" or an American flag design on the label typically indicates that it was produced in the 1970s or 1980s, or possibly earlier. The US was a major clothing producer until the late 20th century when many manufacturers moved their operations overseas to cut costs.
  • Union Tags: Keep an eye out for union tags, such as those from the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union (ILGWU). These tags were commonly found on clothing from the 1920s to the 1980s. The design of the tag can help narrow down the age, as the ILGWU label changed its design several times over the years.
  • RN Numbers: Registered Identification Numbers (RN) are five to six-digit numbers preceded by "RN." These numbers were first issued in 1952, and you can estimate the age of a garment by comparing its RN number to 13670. For example, a label with RN 17272 suggests the garment was made in the mid-1960s.
  • Lot Numbers: Lot numbers were used to track clothing production in factories, especially in the US, until around 1979. If you see a label with a lot number, it's likely that the garment is vintage and dates back to before 1979.
  • Country Names: Be on the lookout for country names that no longer exist, such as "Yugoslavia." Clothing with these labels is likely from before 1999, when the last major change to the world map occurred with the return of Hong Kong to China after 156 years of British rule.

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Examine the fabric

When examining the fabric of a vintage t-shirt, there are several factors to consider. Firstly, the type of fabric used is important. Soft, textured fabrics such as cotton, linen, and chambray are ideal for creating an aged look, while stiff, synthetic fabrics like polyester should be avoided as they detract from the vintage vibe. In addition, the weight and feel of the fabric can also provide clues about the age of the t-shirt. Older t-shirts tend to have a lighter weight and a softer feel compared to modern t-shirts.

Another aspect to consider is the construction of the fabric. Examine the seams of the t-shirt, as different types of seams were used in different eras. For example, French seams, where the raw edges of the fabric are enclosed, were commonly used in the early-to-mid-20th century. Pinked seams, created with pinking shears that leave a zigzag pattern, became popular in the 1950s. Serged seams, which are overlock stitches, started to replace pinked seams in the 1960s when the Serger sewing machine became widely available.

Additionally, the care instructions and content labels can provide valuable information. In 1971, the Federal Trade Commission mandated that all manufacturers include care instructions on an interior tag. If a t-shirt lacks these labels, it is likely to be older than 1971. Also, the Textile Fibre Products Identification Act of 1958 required fabric manufacturers to include accurate fibre content information on the label, so the presence of this label can help date t-shirts from the late 1950s onwards.

Furthermore, the presence of certain fibres can indicate the age of the t-shirt. For instance, rayon, a popular fabric in the 1920s-1940s, was often called artificial silk or rayon silk before being renamed in 1924. Nylon, first commercially used in 1939, was commonly found in t-shirts from the 1950s onwards. Acrylic fabric, created in the 1940s and commercially available in the 1950s, was often used as an alternative to expensive cashmere. Spandex, invented in 1958 and commercially used from 1959 onwards, can also be an indicator of a t-shirt's age.

Lastly, the print type and design of the t-shirt can provide clues about its age. Early ink and screen prints are more valuable than heat transfers, which are less durable and prone to peeling and cracking. The number of colours in the print can also be indicative of age, as single-colour prints became more common in the 1980s when the colour process was widely available.

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Check for a metal zipper

Metal zippers were first used in garments in the 1930s, but they were rare. If your T-shirt has a metal zipper, it is likely to be from 1963 or earlier.

The placement of the zipper can also help you determine the age of the T-shirt. Side zippers are frequently found on garments from the 1930s and 1940s, while back middle zippers are common on garments from the 1950s and 1960s. From the 1970s onwards, middle back zippers were always used.

It is important to note that zippers might have been replaced at a later stage, so it is a good idea to look at other aspects of the T-shirt as well when trying to determine its age.

Frequently asked questions

The simplest definition of vintage is that the item is at least 20 years old. However, some people believe that only pre-1980s clothing is vintage.

Clothing tags are the easiest way to identify the production date of a vintage T-shirt. If the tag is printed directly onto the T-shirt, it is not vintage. If the T-shirt was made in the USA, it is likely vintage as most manufacturers moved production overseas in the mid-1990s.

Some common terms used to describe vintage T-shirts include "DEADSTOCK", "IRON-ON HEAT TRANSFER", "PAPER THIN", "RINGER", "SCREEN PRINTED", and "SINGLE STITCH".

One way to identify the authenticity of a vintage T-shirt is to examine the print on the fabric. Graphics that have been screen-printed will sit on top of the fabric rather than being absorbed into it and are likely to be authentic. Modern printing machines produce ink that is more readily absorbed into the fabric.

Signs of a heavily worn vintage T-shirt include thin fabric, holes, tears, and stains. Natural fading and repairs are often desired in vintage T-shirts.

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