Sport Coat Length: Finding The Right Fit

When it comes to determining the length of a men's sport coat, there are several key factors to consider. Firstly, it is important to measure the coat while it is laid out on a flat, hard surface to ensure accuracy. This involves measuring from one side of the jacket, where the shoulder seam meets the sleeve, straight across to the corresponding point on the other side. Additionally, the sleeve length is crucial, and it is recommended to have a slight extension of the shirt cuff beyond the jacket sleeve. To achieve this, one can measure their dress shirt sleeve length and subtract 1 centimetre. For taller men, i.e. those over 6 feet, the ideal sport coat length falls just below the crotch, while for those under 6 feet, a slightly shorter jacket that ends at the halfway point of the crotch is more suitable.

Shoulder width

When determining the ideal shoulder width for a sports coat, it's important to consider both the natural silhouette of your body and the specific style of the jacket. The shoulders of a sports coat should ideally highlight your natural silhouette with smooth, uninterrupted lines and a clean drape throughout the upper chest, upper sleeves, sleeve head, and shoulders. Whether you prefer a modern slim-fit or a traditional fit, the shoulder seams of the jacket should end slightly past your shoulder bones without pushing past the top of your arm.

To measure your shoulder width, you can use a measuring tape. Stand in front of a mirror so you can see yourself from all angles, wearing the clothes you would typically wear under your sports coat. Place the measuring tape at the tip of your shoulder and wrap it around your shoulders at their widest point. Note this number and then double it, as this is how broad your shoulders are across. You can then compare this measurement to the size chart of the sports coat you're interested in.

When measuring a sports coat itself, the process is a little different. First, button the jacket up fully and lay it face down on a flat, hard surface. Smooth and flatten out the body of the jacket, then measure from where the shoulder seam meets the sleeve on one side, straight across to where the shoulder seam and sleeve meet on the other side.

It's important to get the right shoulder width in a sports coat, as this can greatly affect the overall fit and appearance. If the shoulder width is too narrow, you'll see the fabric pulled tight across the upper arms, and the sleeve heads will be pulled too close to the body, creating tension and distorting the fit. On the other hand, if the shoulder width is too wide, the shoulders will be exaggerated and sag noticeably, with wrinkles running from under the jacket lapel to the shoulder edge, and a bulge of excess fabric at the top of the sleeves.

Chest circumference

To determine the chest circumference for a men's sport coat, you will need a measuring tape and a mirror. Stand up straight in front of the mirror, wearing the clothes you would typically wear under a sports coat. Wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of your chest, usually right under your armpits. Ensure that the tape is snug but not too tight. Note this number down and compare it to a size chart.

If you are buying a men's suit or sport coat from a US retailer, your suit jacket size should roughly correspond to your chest circumference in inches. For a slimmer fit, choose a jacket size that is about 1" smaller than your chest circumference. For a more relaxed, classic fit, choose the jacket size closest to your actual chest circumference.

For example, if you measure 40 inches around your chest, then your chest size is 40 inches and your suit jacket size is also 40. If you prefer a slimmer fit, you may opt for a size 39 jacket.

It is important to note that the chest circumference measurement for a jacket is typically 2-4 inches larger than the actual chest measurement. This allows for freedom of movement and ensures the jacket is not too tight. A 2" differential will result in a slim, close fit, while a 4" differential will provide a looser, more classic fit.

Waist circumference

To determine the waist circumference of a sports coat, you will need to measure your own waist circumference. This is done by pinpointing the natural crease of your waist by bending to one side. This crease will be higher than where you normally wear your pants — above your belly button, but typically just below your ribcage. Keep the tape measure parallel to the floor and measure all the way around your torso where this crease formed. This is a crucial measurement as if you are buying a jacket with buttons, it should button neatly and comfortably over your natural waist.

To measure the waist of the jacket, lay the jacket on its back and fully button it. Use your hands to extend and flatten out the torso completely. Measure straight across from one edge of the jacket waist to the other edge. On a two-button jacket, position the measuring tape straight along the top button. On a three-button jacket, the measuring tape should pass right through the middle button.

If you are measuring your own waist, it is best to ask a friend to help you to ensure the tape measure is level and that you are getting an accurate measurement.

Sleeve length

When determining the sleeve length of a sports coat, it is important to consider the length of the shirt sleeve underneath. Ideally, the sleeve length of a sports coat should be the same as a properly fitted suit jacket. The shirt sleeve should end at the narrowest point of the wrist, with the suit sleeve ending a quarter to half an inch above that, allowing a sliver of the shirt cuff to be visible. This ensures a consistent look, as shirts vary in sleeve length.

To measure your sleeve length, you can follow these steps:

• Measure from the nape of your neck (the centre of the back of your neck) down to where your shoulder blades meet the top of your arm.
• Measure from that shoulder point down to your wrist bone, where the end of the cuff should hit. Keep your elbow slightly bent when taking this measurement to allow for a natural range of motion.
• Add the two measurements together to find your total sleeve length.

It is worth noting that sleeve length is not always based on arm length, as each person has different shoulder widths and armhole shapes. Therefore, clothing designers often measure from the centre back of the neck, over the top of the shoulder, and down to the wrist.

Body length

Sizing the body of a sport coat is one of the simplest elements of getting the perfect fit. You need to take two important measurements: your chest and your shoulders.

To get the perfect chest measurement, wrap a tape measure around the fullest, widest part of your chest. This is much easier if you have someone to help you. The tape measure should cover your shoulder blades, too, for an accurate measurement. Say you find your chest is 38″ – that is the jacket size you should go with. Most garments are available in inch sizing to help you get as close a fit as possible – avoid garments labelled as either small, medium, or large. These accommodate a wider range of sizes – meaning they are less likely to fit your body perfectly.

Next, you need to size your shoulders. This is perhaps the trickiest element of perfect sizing. And, unfortunately, it’s also one of the most important sizing elements to nail down. Making alterations after the fact is difficult and expensive. So, pay close attention:

Get started by standing in front of the mirror. With somebody’s help, get the size from your neckline (where your collar will start) to the end of your shoulder – where your arm begins to go down. Your goal is for your jacket to perfectly follow your shoulders, with the seam ending right where your shoulder ends. If you oversize this measurement, you’ll end up with bunching fabric and shoulder divots. If you undersize this measurement, you’ll end up with fabric pulling. Neither of these is ideal. When in doubt, consult a tailor.

The length of your sports jacket also depends on your height and proportions. If you’re over 6 ft, the jacket should end on your lower crotch area, around the bottom of the fly area of your pants. If you’re under 5’9”, the sports jacket should end around your mid-crotch, which is halfway down your fly or about in line with where you wear your watch when your arms are by your side.

Frequently asked questions