Drafting Tank Top Patterns: A Step-By-Step Guide

Tank tops are a versatile garment and a great beginner sewing project. In this article, we will teach you how to draft a tank top pattern, which is the first step in creating your own custom tank top. You can draft the pattern from an existing tank top or create it from scratch using your own measurements. By following these simple steps, you will be well on your way to designing and sewing your own unique tank tops.

Find an existing tank top

To draft a tank top pattern, you'll first need to find an existing tank top that fits you well. This will be your guide as you draft your pattern. It's important to keep it simple—use a basic tank top without any darts, pleats, or other accents. Drafting the pattern will be easier if you work from a woven tank top, but you can use a stretchy knit if that's all you have.

Once you've selected your tank top, fold it in half along its vertical center. Place it on top of a large sheet of paper, such as brown drafting paper or blank newsprint. Make sure to fold the tank top along its back, so that the front neckline remains visible. This will be important when you draft the front pattern piece.

Next, you'll need to add a seam allowance to the outline of the tank top. Trace around the entire outline, and then draw a second outline about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) outside of the first. This extra 1/2 inch will be your seam allowance. If you're drafting the pattern from a knit tank but plan to make a woven version, add an additional 1 inch (2.5 cm) around the perimeter and inside of the seam allowance.

Now, carefully fold the back neckline between the straps and repeat the tracing process, adding another 1/2 inch seam allowance. The back neckline is typically higher than the front, which is why you'll need two separate pieces. Make sure that the rest of the perimeter remains even after you fold in the neckline. If folding the neckline distorts the outline, simply unfold it while tracing.

Finally, cut out both pattern pieces, including the seam allowances. Label the pieces "Back" and "Front" accordingly, and mark where the fold sits on each pattern piece.

Keep it simple

To keep it simple, find an existing tank top that fits you well and use that as a guide to draft your pattern. Choose a basic tank top, avoiding any with darts, pleats, draping folds, or other accents. It's easier to draft the pattern from a woven tank top, but you can use a stretchy knit if you prefer.

Fold the tank top in half along its vertical center and place it on top of a large sheet of paper, such as brown drafting paper or blank newsprint. Make sure to fold the tank top along its back so that the front neckline remains visible. Trace around the entire outline of the tank top, then draw a second outline 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) outside of the first. This extra 1/2 inch will be your seam allowance. If you're drafting the pattern from a knit tank but plan to make a woven version, add an extra 1 inch (2.5 cm) around the perimeter and inside the seam allowance.

Next, carefully fold the back neckline between the straps and repeat the tracing process, adding the seam allowance. Cut out the pattern pieces and label them "Back" and "Front". You may also want to mark where the fold sits on each pattern piece.

Now you're ready to start cutting and sewing your fabric!

Fold the tank in half

Folding your tank top is a crucial step in drafting its pattern. Here is a detailed, step-by-step guide on how to fold your tank top perfectly to create a symmetrical pattern:

Firstly, lay your tank top on a flat surface, preferably with the back side facing up. This initial placement is important as it ensures that the front neckline remains visible when you fold the tank top. Imagine a vertical line running from the top to the bottom of the tank top, and proceed to fold it in half along this imaginary centre line. This step helps you create a symmetrical pattern, so ensure that the two halves align perfectly along this centre line.

Now, you will need a large sheet of paper. Brown drafting paper or blank newsprint works well for this purpose. Place the folded tank top on top of the paper, ensuring that the front neckline is still visible. At this stage, you should only be focusing on creating the back pattern piece, which is why the visibility of the front neckline is important.

Once you have the tank top perfectly folded and aligned on the paper, you can begin tracing the outline. This outline will serve as the basis for your pattern. Carefully trace around the entire perimeter of the folded tank top. After you have the initial outline, it's time to add the seam allowance. Simply draw a second outline, positioned approximately 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) outside the first one. This additional allowance is crucial for ensuring a well-fitted tank top.

If you're working with a stretchy knit fabric and want to create a woven version, don't forget to add that extra inch. After you've finished tracing and adding the necessary allowances, carefully cut out your back pattern piece. Now, you can move on to creating the front pattern piece by repeating similar steps and paying close attention to the neckline and strap placement.

In summary, folding the tank top in half is a fundamental step in creating a symmetrical pattern. By following these steps, you will be well on your way to drafting a precise pattern for your tank top, ensuring a well-fitted and stylish final product.

Add a seam allowance

Adding a seam allowance is an important step in drafting a tank top pattern, as it provides the extra space needed to sew the fabric pieces together. Here is a detailed guide on how to add a seam allowance:

• Tools: You will need a ruler and a pencil. A transparent ruler is ideal, but any ruler will work. If using a non-transparent ruler, mark the seam allowance width at intervals along the seam and then connect the points to create a straight line.
• Measurement: Decide on the seam allowance measurement you want to use. Standard seam allowances vary depending on the fabric and style of the garment. For delicate fabrics like silk chiffon, use a narrower seam allowance to avoid bulkiness. For stronger garments like trousers or coats, a wider seam allowance is recommended for added strength.
• Placement: Lay the ruler along the edge of your pattern, aligning the line indicating your desired seam allowance width with the edge. If your ruler is the same width as the seam allowance, simply place one long edge along the pattern's edge.
• Marking: Using your pencil, mark the seam allowance by drawing along the outer edge of the ruler. If your pattern has straight lines, you can mark one continuous line. For curved lines, mark short lines and adjust your ruler as you move along the curve.
• Notches: Don't forget to transfer any notches on the pattern to your seam allowance. Notches are important for aligning fabric pieces during sewing. You can also add additional notches to indicate the beginning of the seam allowance or any other helpful reference points.
• Cutting: After marking the seam allowance, cut along the outer line you have drawn. Remember, if a pattern piece is cut on the fold, no seam allowance is needed for that particular edge.
• Consistency: Ensure that you add the same amount of seam allowance to all corresponding pattern pieces. For example, if you add a 1/2-inch seam allowance to the front piece, make sure to add the same allowance to the back piece.

By following these steps, you will accurately add seam allowances to your tank top pattern, ensuring a professional finish to your garment.

Cut out the pattern pieces

Cutting out the pattern pieces is a crucial step in creating your tank top. You will need two pattern pieces in total, one for the back and one for the front. The process for cutting out each piece is similar, but there are some key differences to keep in mind.

Start by folding your fabric in half, and placing both pattern pieces onto the same side of the fabric. Ensure that the sides marked "fold" on the pattern pieces are aligned with the actual fold of your fabric. Use pins to secure the pattern pieces in place, and then use a fabric pencil or chalk to carefully trace the outline of each piece onto the fabric. It is important to keep the fabric and pattern pieces as flat as possible during this step.

Once you have traced the outlines, carefully cut along the traced lines using pinking shears, a rotary cutter, or standard scissors. Pinking shears are ideal as they will minimise fraying, but they are not essential. After cutting, unpin and unfold your fabric pieces. You can set aside the pattern pieces for future use if they are still in good condition.

Now you will have two fabric pieces, one for the front and one for the back of your tank top. Before you start assembling your tank top, you will need to fold and press the raw edges of these pieces. Start with the bottom hem, folding it up 1/4 inch (0.6 cm), and then folding it over again by another 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) so that the raw edge is enclosed. Secure this fold with pins and press it in place with an iron. Repeat this process for the armhole openings and neckline on both the front and back pieces. For the sides and shoulder edges, simply fold the edge in by 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) without performing a double fold. Pin and press these folds in place as well.

Now that you have carefully cut out and prepared your pattern pieces, you are ready to move on to the next step of assembling your tank top.

Frequently asked questions