Mastering Heavy Embroidery On T-Shirts: A Step-By-Step Guide

Embroidering a heavy design on a T-shirt can be challenging due to the risk of fabric puckering or poor draping. To achieve the best results, it is recommended to use thicker T-shirts made from heavier cotton blends, as they stitch better and are less prone to puckering. Before embroidering, it is crucial to wash and dry the shirt to prevent shrinkage later. Choosing a suitable stabilizer is essential to ensure the fabric doesn't stretch or distort. While most stabilizers are designed for the back of the embroidery, some can be placed on the front or back of the shirt. Using a removable stabilizer is preferable to maintain a soft and non-scratchy feel on the skin. The stabilizer should be larger than the embroidery design and hoop to prevent the fabric from stretching.

Choosing the right needle and thread

Needle Type and Size:

• The type of needle you choose depends on the fabric you are working with. For T-shirts, which are typically made of stretchy knit fabric, a ballpoint or round-end needle is recommended to avoid pulling and snagging.
• The weight of the fabric also determines the needle size. For T-shirts, a medium-weight fabric, you would generally use a smaller needle compared to heavier fabrics like canvas. A 75/11 embroidery needle is commonly used for T-shirt embroidery.
• If you are working with a very fine stabilizer, such as water-soluble plastic film, you will need a sharp-point needle to easily penetrate the stabilizer without ripping it.
• Consider the technique or type of embroidery stitch you are using. Different embroidery techniques may require specific types of needles, such as freestyle embroidery, counted cross-stitch, or sashiko.

Thread Type and Weight:

• The type of thread you choose depends on the fabric and the embroidery technique. Common thread types include cotton, silk, wool, linen, and synthetic fibers.
• The weight or size of the thread will determine the needle size. A lower needle size number indicates a larger eye, suitable for larger threads. Conversely, a higher needle size number means a smaller eye, better suited for finer threads.
• Ensure that the thread fits comfortably through the eye of the needle. If the thread is forced through a small eye, it may fray and break, while a thread that is too small for the eye may slip out or be difficult to work with.

It is always a good idea to have a variety of needle and thread options on hand to experiment and find the best combination for your specific project.

Preparing the t-shirt

Firstly, select a suitable T-shirt. It is recommended to choose a T-shirt made from thicker fabric, preferably a heavier cotton blend. Heavier fabrics stitch better and are less prone to puckering than lightweight shirts. Using an old T-shirt is also a great option, as you can give new life to a garment that might not be worn frequently.

Before starting the embroidery process, it is essential to wash and dry the T-shirt. This step helps remove any potential shrinkage that could occur later. Even the best no-shrink cotton clothing can sometimes shrink, and you want to avoid any puckering or distortion of your embroidery design due to fabric shrinkage.

Now, you need to decide on the placement of your design. Consider whether you want the embroidery on the front, back, sleeve, or near the neckline. Use a template or printout of your design to arrange the placement and find the spot that appeals to you. Traditional placement has the top of the design about 3" down from the neck, centred between the sides. However, this measurement may vary depending on the size of the shirt.

Once you've decided on the placement, mark the centre point and the vertical and horizontal axis lines. These marks will guide you in hooping the shirt straight later. Use an air-erase pen or a washable marker for light-coloured T-shirts, and fabric chalk for darker fabrics.

The next step is to stabilise the fabric. Stabiliser is crucial when embroidering on stretchy T-shirt fabric to prevent the design from becoming distorted. There are two main types of stabilisers: removable and permanent. Removable stabilisers are generally preferred for knit fabrics to keep the back of the stitching soft and non-scratchy. Some common types of stabilisers include wash-away, tear-away, stick and stitch, and iron-on. Choose a stabiliser that works best for your project and follow the instructions for applying it.

After stabilising the fabric, it's time to hoop your T-shirt. Turn the shirt inside out and slide the inner hoop inside the shirt under the area you'll be stitching. Then, press the outer hoop over the fabric and inner hoop, ensuring even pressure without stretching the fabric. Adjust if necessary to avoid any misshapen areas.

By following these steps, you will have successfully prepared your T-shirt for embroidery. Now, you can move on to the actual embroidery process, knowing that your T-shirt is ready for your desired design.

Using a template

Once you have your design, cut out the template, removing any excess paper around it. Get as close to the design as possible, as this will make it easier to transfer onto your T-shirt. If you're unsure about the placement of the design, you can embroider the template onto two layers of cutaway stabilizer, trim around the design, and lay it into position. This will help you confirm the size, location, and even thread colour selection.

After you're happy with the design and its placement, it's time to transfer the template onto your T-shirt. To do this, stick a removable stabilizer that sticks to fabric onto the T-shirt where you want the design to go. Then, lay a piece of carbon paper over the stabilizer and set your paper template on top. Gently retrace your design, using an erasable fabric marker if needed. You can also use straight pins to mark horizontal and vertical lines to ensure the placement is correct. Try on the T-shirt and double-check in a mirror to confirm the lines are balanced.

Now that you have your template in place, you can begin embroidering your design. Use an embroidery hoop to keep your stitches flush with the fabric, or use straight pins to secure the template in place if you don't have a hoop. Thread your needle with embroidery floss, making sure to use more floss than you think you'll need. Start with a piece of thread the same length as your arm, folding it in half and slipping the ends through the needle. Tie one end with a triple knot.

Stabilising the fabric

To stabilise the fabric, you'll need to use a stabiliser. There are several kinds of stabilisers designed for embroidering on stretchy fabrics. Some are temporary, like removable or wash-away stabilisers, while others are permanent. Many tear away, and a handful dissolve in water. There is even a stabiliser that attaches to the T-shirt with large basting stitches and one that adheres directly to the fabric. Generally, any stabiliser will work, so you can use what's easy to find and is best for you.

If you wear it, don’t tear it—that is, use cut-away stabiliser, preferably a fusible no-show mesh. They keep knits from stretching out of shape and keep embroidery where it belongs. Turn the shirt inside out and fuse a piece of no-show mesh significantly larger than the hoop size. Turn the shirt right side out, find your centre point, and hoop the stabilised shirt. It needs to be snug in the hoop, but not pulled.

If you're using a removable stabiliser, trace or transfer your pattern onto the T-shirt before you add the stabiliser. If you're using a stabiliser that adheres directly to the fabric, trace your pattern onto the stabiliser. Place the stabiliser in the area you'll be stitching, then take large basting stitches with a needle and thread to secure the stabiliser to the T-shirt. It's important to keep the fabric and stabiliser as smooth as possible.

If you're using a stabiliser that sticks, peel the paper backing off the stabiliser to reveal the adhesive. Stick the stabiliser onto the front of your T-shirt, where you would like the pattern to be. Without stretching the fabric, put the top layer of your T-shirt into an embroidery hoop and tighten the screw.

Removing excess stabiliser

Firstly, it is important to understand the different types of stabilisers and their removal processes. The three main types of stabilisers are tear-away, wash-away, and cut-away. Tear-away and wash-away stabilisers are temporary and can be removed by tearing or washing them away, respectively. Cut-away stabilisers, on the other hand, are permanent and will remain with the fabric to provide continued support.

When removing excess tear-away stabiliser, carefully tear away the material from around the edges of the embroidery. Then, gently tear and remove the pieces inside the design, being cautious not to disturb the stitches. For wash-away stabiliser, start by cutting away the excess stabiliser from the edges. Then, soak the embroidered area in warm water, gently rubbing the stabiliser to help it dissolve. Alternatively, you can rinse the project under running water at an angle, again rubbing any remaining stabiliser.

If you are using a cut-away stabiliser, trim the excess stabiliser as close to the stitches as possible without cutting the stitches themselves. Leave about half an inch of stabiliser around the design. A good-quality cut-away stabiliser will soften after a wash or two, reducing any roughness against the skin.

If you are concerned about the roughness of the stabiliser or the thread against the skin, you can use an interfacing, such as Cloud Cover Stitch, on the back of the embroidery. This will help create a softer finish.

Additionally, if you are using a water-soluble stabiliser, be mindful that it should not be used on fabrics that are slightly see-through, as the shadow of the stabiliser may show through to the front. In this case, ensure that all the stabiliser is removed by gently rubbing and rinsing it away.

Frequently asked questions