Felting Fundamentals: Transforming Wool Into A Cozy Coat

Felting a wool coat is a great upcycling project. Thrifted wool coats are cheap, and felting them is easy. Wool jackets, wool suits, wool dress pants, wool long johns, wool blankets, wool mattress pads, and anything else sewn from wool fabric can all be felted.

The first step is to check whether your wool piece was treated for washability. If it was, it won't felt. If it wasn't treated, you can felt it in a washing machine or by boiling it on the stove.

If you're using a washing machine, wash the wool on the longest cycle using hot water with a cold-water rinse. Then dry the fabric in a hot dryer.

If you're boiling the wool, sort the wool fabrics you want to felt by colour, and match the size of the pan to the amount of wool. Put your wool pieces in the pot and fill it with enough warm/hot tap water to cover the wool. Place it on the stove and crank up the heat. When the water comes to a rapid boil, reduce the temperature a bit but keep the water boiling. Continue to boil for about 7 minutes, stirring a couple of times. While you're waiting, fill one side of your sink with cold water. After 7 minutes of boiling, remove the wool from the pot and place it in your sink of cold water. Squeeze the cold water out of your wool pieces and dry in the dryer on high heat until completely dry.

Choosing the right wool

When it comes to choosing the right wool for your felting project, the options available can be overwhelming. Here are some tips to help you select the best wool for your project:

• Identify the type of felting you will be doing. Needle felting and wet felting require different types of wool. For needle felting, wool batting is a good choice as the fibres are going in different directions, resulting in a smoother surface. For wet felting, you can choose between wool batts and wool tops, depending on the shape you will be felting.
• Consider the desired outcome of your project. If you want a delicate and soft piece, such as jewellery or a scarf, opt for fine or extra-fine merino wool. If you are felting something that needs to be more rigid and resistant, like slippers or a rug, choose a rougher and thicker wool.
• Choose the right breed of sheep for your project. Different breeds of sheep produce different types of wool. For example, Merino wool is soft and fine, making it suitable for adding finishing touches and colour to your project. Blue-Faced Leicester wool, on the other hand, is a long fine wool with a lustrous finish, making it ideal for creating detailed pieces. Other options include Shetland wool, which is fine with a crimp, Corriedale wool, which is less fine and has a crimp, and Manx Loaghtan wool, which has natural bulk and felts quickly.
• Experiment with different types of wool. There are no hard and fast rules in felting, and personal preference plays a big part. It is recommended to start with a step-by-step kit that includes different types of wool so you can get a feel for the different textures and techniques before experimenting on your own.

Preparing the wool

Washing the Wool:

Start by washing the raw wool to remove any dirt, oils, or impurities. It is recommended to wash the wool outside, as it has a distinct odour. Use large containers for the wash water and rinse water, maintaining specific temperatures for different types of wool. For merino or other fine wools, use water at 160°F (71°C), while for coarser wools, use water at 140°F (60°C). Soak the wool in mesh bags for about 30 minutes, ensuring the water penetrates the bag. Avoid agitation to prevent premature felting. Rinse the wool thoroughly, and you may need to repeat the process for a thorough clean.

Drying the Wool:

After washing, use a washing machine's spin cycle to remove excess water from the wool. Then, spread the wool out on a screen or rack to dry. Ideally, choose a warm, sunny day for quicker drying.

Teasing and Carding the Wool:

Once the wool is dry, it needs to be teased apart into fluffy clouds of fibre before carding. Carding can be done by hand or with a drum carder, which is a faster option. Carders have metal teeth that help untangle and straighten the fibres, preparing them for the next steps in the felting process.

Choosing the Right Wool:

When selecting wool for felting, look for soft fibres with a high crimp. Soft fibres are easier to work with and result in a smoother finish. High-crimp fibres provide more texture and interlock better during felting, creating a sturdier fabric. Merino wool, for example, is a popular choice for felting due to its fine texture and ease of felting.

Preparing the Fleece:

Consider the breed of sheep and the type of wool they produce. Merino sheep, for instance, yield fine and soft wool ideal for garments, while Romney sheep produce coarser wool suitable for rugs or outerwear. Choose a fleece that is clean, with minimal debris, and uniform in colour and texture. Additionally, look for a fleece with a high crimp, as it will felt more easily and produce a denser fabric.

Cutting the wool

When it comes to cutting the wool for your coat, there are a few things to keep in mind. Firstly, it is recommended to cut the wool into pieces before felting, removing all seams. This will make the felting process easier and ensure that the edges don't unravel.

If you are working with a wool coat that you plan to felt, you may want to remove any zippers, buttons, or other attachments. This is because these elements may not be suitable for the felting process and could become damaged.

Additionally, if you are working with a pattern, it is a good idea to create a half-scale version first, especially if you are designing something complex. This will allow you to test the pattern before committing to a full-scale garment and will help you refine your design.

When cutting the wool, use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to ensure clean, precise cuts. Take your time and be careful not to cut yourself or damage the wool fabric. It is also important to work in a well-ventilated area when cutting wool, as the fibres may irritate your eyes, nose, or throat.

Finally, remember that you don't need to finish the edges of the wool fabric after cutting, as felting will take care of that for you. So, there is no need to zigzag stitch or overlock the edges before felting.

Sewing the wool

Sewing with wool is a fun and rewarding process, but it can be tricky. Wool is a delicate fabric that requires careful handling to avoid misshaping or damaging the fibres. Here is a step-by-step guide to sewing a wool coat:

Step 1: Choosing the Right Wool

Firstly, you need to select the right type of wool for your coat. Wool comes in many different forms, including woven, felted, and knitted varieties. For a coat, you will want a thicker, more durable type of wool, such as boiled wool or Melton wool. These types of wool are ideal for sewing coats as they are less likely to tear or pill.

Step 2: Preparing the Wool

Before you start sewing, you need to ensure your wool is clean and free of any residue. If you are using pre-made wool fabric, you can hand-wash or machine-wash it using lukewarm water and a gentle wool detergent. If you are using second-hand wool clothing, you may need to remove buttons, zippers, or other attachments before washing.

Step 3: Cutting the Pattern

Once your wool is clean and dry, it's time to cut out your pattern pieces. Place your pattern pieces on the wool, ensuring that all seams will run horizontally across the coat. Carefully cut out each piece, taking care not to stretch or distort the fabric.

Step 4: Sewing the Coat

When sewing wool, it is essential to use the right type of thread and needle. A double thickness of embroidery thread, for example, can provide extra strength for seams. You will also want to use a ballpoint needle, which is designed to pass through the fabric without damaging the fibres. Start by sewing the vertical seams of the coat, and then attach the side seams of the bodice.

Step 5: Finishing Touches

Finally, you can add any desired embellishments or decorations to your coat. Needle felting is a popular technique for adding unique designs to wool coats. You can also leave the cut edges unfinished for a modern, deconstructed look.

Sewing a wool coat can be a challenging but rewarding project. By choosing the right type of wool, preparing your fabric properly, and using the correct sewing techniques, you can create a beautiful and durable garment to keep you warm all winter long.

Finishing the coat

Once you've completed the felting process, you can move on to finishing your coat. This is where you'll add your own personal touches and ensure that your coat is ready to wear. Here are some detailed instructions to help you with this process:

Cutting and Sewing:

Before you start constructing your coat, it's important to cut your felt pieces carefully. Using a photocopier, create a half-scale version of your pattern by copying it at 50%. This will allow you to test the pattern before committing to a full-scale garment. Cut the felt pieces according to your pattern, making sure to include seam allowances. Remember, wool felt and boiled wool don't require edge finishing, so you can use a cut edge as the finish. Sew the pieces together, following your chosen coat pattern.

Adding Details:

Now, you can add details such as pockets, buttons, or a lining. If you're adding a lining, be sure to choose a complementary fabric that will enhance the look and feel of your coat. You can also add decorative elements like embroidery or needle felting designs onto your coat.

Final Touches:

Once your coat is constructed, it's time for the final touches. Check all seams and finishes, reinforcing any areas that might be subject to stress. Try on your coat to ensure a proper fit, making any necessary alterations. Finally, give your coat a good steam or iron to remove any wrinkles and sharpen its overall appearance.

Your coat is now ready to wear! Enjoy your unique, handmade garment and stay warm in style.

Frequently asked questions