Hand-Finishing Raw T-Shirt Edges: A Step-By-Step Guide

There are many ways to hand-finish a raw t-shirt edge, depending on the aesthetic you're aiming for and the type of fabric used. If you're using a stretchy fabric, you can leave the edge on the bottom raw as knit fabrics don't fray when cut. You can also fold the fabric under itself and topstitch it in place or use a strip of bias-cut fabric, folded over the raw edges, for a sportier look. For a more polished finish, you could try using a lightweight facing tape, a finely rolled hem, or fold and press the edge. If you want to get creative, consider adding a cute lace or pom-pom trim, or even leaving the edges raw for a trendy, natural look.

Use a strip of bias-cut fabric for the neck, cut on the diagonal, folded over the raw edges

To hand finish a raw t-shirt edge, you can use a strip of bias-cut fabric for the neck, cut on the diagonal, and folded over the raw edges. This method is ideal for stretchy fabrics like knits, which are commonly used for t-shirts. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to do it:

Step 1: Cut the Fabric on the Bias

Start by cutting your fabric on the bias, which means cutting it diagonally at a 45-degree angle to the selvedge. This will give your fabric stretch and flexibility, making it easier to work with curved edges like the neckline. You can use the same fabric as the t-shirt or choose a contrasting colour for a unique aesthetic. Just make sure that the fabric you choose has similar or greater stretchability to avoid seams ripping when the t-shirt is worn.

Step 2: Prepare the Fabric Strip

Cut a strip of the bias-cut fabric that is long enough to go around the neckline. Fold this strip in half lengthwise, with the wrong sides of the fabric facing each other. Press the fold with an iron to create a neat, sharp edge. This strip will be used to finish the raw edge of the neckline.

Step 3: Stitch the Fabric Strip to the Neckline

Place the folded fabric strip along the raw edge of the neckline, aligning the raw edges of the strip with the raw edge of the t-shirt. Stitch the strip in place, close to the edge. You can use a zig-zag stitch or a twin needle for this step. Make sure to use a ballpoint needle to avoid creating small tears in the fabric.

Step 4: Fold and Stitch Again

After stitching the fabric strip in place, fold it over the raw edge of the neckline, enclosing the raw edge within the fold. Stitch along the folded edge of the fabric strip to secure it in place. This will create a neat, finished edge around the neckline.

Tips and Tricks

• When cutting the fabric on the bias, use a rotary cutter, cutting mat, and quilting ruler for more precise and easier cutting.
• If you're working with a knit fabric, you may need to press the strip with an iron to make it stay folded, as knits can be tricky to work with.
• If you have any difficulties cutting or stitching the fabric strip, practice on some scrap fabric first to get a feel for the process.

Cut a strip of fabric, fold it in two, and sew onto the neckline like a low collar

When finishing a raw T-shirt edge by hand, one method you can use is to create a fabric strip and attach it to the neckline. This technique adds a unique, decorative touch to your garment while also securing the raw edge, preventing fraying, and providing a neat finish. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to do it:

Cut a Strip of Fabric:

Begin by cutting a strip of fabric that coordinates or contrasts with your T-shirt, depending on the look you want to achieve. Consider the width of the strip; it should be wide enough to fold in half lengthwise and still cover the raw edge of the neckline. The length of the strip should also be slightly longer than the neckline, giving you enough fabric to work with and ensuring a comfortable fit.

Fold and Press the Strip:

Take your strip of fabric and fold it in half lengthwise. Use an iron to press the fold, creating a neat, crisp edge. This step is important as it sets the foundation for a clean finish. Make sure the folded strip is slightly narrower than your desired finished collar width.

Pin and Sew the Strip:

Now, pin the folded fabric strip to the neckline of your T-shirt, aligning the raw edges. Start at the centre back of the neckline and work your way around to the front, ensuring that the strip is securely pinned in place. Using a needle and thread, sew along the folded edge of the strip, attaching it to the neckline. Use small, even stitches, and try to keep your sewing tension consistent for a neat appearance.

Finish the Ends of the Strip:

When you reach the end of the neckline, carefully finish the ends of the fabric strip. You can do this by folding and pressing the ends before sewing them down, or by adding decorative elements like buttons or fabric flowers to conceal the raw edges. Ensure that the ends of the strip are securely sewn in place.

Press and Admire Your Work:

Once you've finished sewing on the fabric strip, give your new collar a final press with an iron to set the stitches and create a crisp, polished look. Stand back and admire your handiwork! You've now added a unique, handmade touch to your T-shirt, transforming a raw edge into a stylish design element.

This technique of hand-finishing a raw T-shirt edge is a great way to upcycle plain or old T-shirts, giving them a new lease of life. It's a simple process that can be completed by sewing enthusiasts of all skill levels, and the result is a one-of-a-kind garment that reflects your personal style and craftsmanship.

Fold the fabric under itself and topstitch in place

To hand finish a raw t-shirt edge, one method is to fold the fabric under itself and topstitch it in place. This technique can be used for the hem of the body and the sleeves of the t-shirt. It is important to note that this method may be tricky when working with stretchy fabric, as it tends to roll up when cut. To overcome this challenge, you can try pressing the fabric with heat to make it stay folded. Alternatively, you can cut a few mock pieces and practice finishing the edges before working on the actual garment.

When folding the fabric under itself, ensure that you create a clean and precise fold. Use a ruler or a measuring tape to measure and mark the fold lines evenly. This will help you achieve a straight and consistent fold along the edge of the t-shirt. It is also crucial to use the right type of needle when sewing knit fabrics. A ballpoint needle is recommended to avoid creating small tears in the fabric, which can lead to the garment falling apart over time.

After folding the fabric under itself, you will need to topstitch it in place. You can use a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch for this step. If you have a twin needle, you can use it to mimic the coverlock stitching often seen on ready-to-wear t-shirts. Adjust your sewing machine settings to achieve the desired stitch type and length. Before starting, test the stitch on a scrap piece of fabric to ensure it works well with the knit fabric of your t-shirt.

Additionally, consider using a stabiliser or tape to hold the fold in place while stitching. This will help prevent the fabric from stretching or waving during the sewing process. There are products available specifically for this purpose, such as Wonder Tape, which can be placed along the fold line before stitching. The tape will wash away when you launder the t-shirt, leaving a professional-looking finish.

Use Stitch Witchery tape to create a no-sew hem

Stitch Witchery is a double-sided fusible adhesive that can be used to join two pieces of fabric together. It is a quick and easy no-sew solution for hemming a T-shirt that will give you professional-looking results. It is available in different widths, lengths, weights, and colours, so choose the type that best suits your needs. Dritz is the most popular brand of stitch witchery, and their bonding web is available in different weights and widths to suit a variety of fabrics, from lightweight silk to heavyweight denim.

• Prepare your fabric: Ensure that the fabric is clean and free of wrinkles. Use a correct heat setting on your iron, checking the care label beforehand. If you are using new fabric, pre-wash and pre-shrink it.
• Prepare the hem and cut the Stitch Witchery: Determine the width of the hem, fold the fabric to the desired width, and press the hem with a hot iron. Measure your hem length and cut the Stitch Witchery tape to the same length or slightly more (1/2") as the hem.
• Insert the bonding web into the hem area: Place the Stitch Witchery tape between the layers of fabric, ensuring it doesn't poke out from the top of the hem and is completely covered. Avoid direct contact with your iron to prevent the tape from melting and making your iron dirty.
• Press the hem with a hot iron: Follow the instructions on the package for temperature and pressing time. Generally, you will need to press firmly for 10-12 seconds, increasing the time for heavier fabrics. Do not glide the iron back and forth, just press. You may need to turn the fabric over and repeat on the other side for a smooth, secure bond.
• Allow the fabric to cool: Let the fabric cool completely before checking the seal. The stitch witchery tape will fuse as it cools, so give it time to set and achieve maximum strength.

Stitch Witchery is a permanent adhesive, but if you make a mistake, you can remove it by steam pressing the fused area for 10 seconds and peeling the layers apart while still hot.

When choosing a weight for your Stitch Witchery, be sure to base your selection on the weight of the fabric you are working with. For delicate fabrics like silk and rayon, use an ultra-lightweight tape. For heavier fabrics like upholstery, denim, or wool, opt for a heavyweight bonding web.

Stitch Witchery is available in various widths, so choose a size smaller than your hem size to keep it discreet. You can find tapes in widths ranging from 1/4" to 2".

Stitch Witchery is perfect for creating a no-sew hem on your T-shirt, providing a strong and durable bond that will last through multiple washes.

Use a serger to create a rolled hem

Using a serger to create a rolled hem is a great way to achieve a professional finish on your T-shirt. Sergers are versatile machines that can cut and sew simultaneously, making them ideal for creating flawless rolled hems quickly and efficiently. Here are some detailed instructions to guide you through the process:

Gathering the Right Tools and Materials

Before you begin, ensure you have the necessary tools and materials for creating a rolled hem with a serger. Choose a serger or overlocker that offers a rolled hem feature and allows easy adjustments to stitch length, width, and tension. Select a lightweight thread, such as a 60-weight serger thread, to avoid adding bulk to the finished edge. You can also opt for a high-quality polyester serger thread or decorative threads like woolly nylon or rayon for a unique touch.

Setting Up the Serger

Properly setting up your serger is crucial for achieving a successful rolled hem. Install the right needle to create a narrow hem, and use a regular serger foot. Adjust the differential feed to normal ("N") to prevent puckering or stretching of the fabric. Set the shortest stitch length to ensure that the stitches are close together, and adjust the stitch width to the narrowest setting. Finally, use a lightweight needle, typically a size 75/11 or 80/12. Refer to your serger's manual for specific settings and test the stitch on a scrap piece of fabric before starting on your T-shirt.

Sewing the Rolled Hem

Prepare your fabric by trimming any frayed edges and cutting it to the desired size. Place the fabric under the presser foot with the right side facing up, and line up the edge of the fabric with the presser foot. Start sewing slowly, using your left hand to guide the fabric and ensure it remains aligned with the presser foot. Continue sewing until you reach the end of the fabric, and the serger will create a rolled hem as you go.

Troubleshooting Tips

When sewing a rolled hem with a serger, you may encounter some common issues. If tiny threads are visible at the edge, try widening the stitch or using a slightly thicker thread, such as woolly nylon, to fill in the spaces between stitches. If stitches pull off the edge, increase the stitch length, adjust the stitch width, or change the thread type to prevent breakage. For uneven stitches, adjust the tension settings and consider using woolly nylon thread in both loopers for better coverage. Finally, to address fabric puckering, ensure the fabric is fed smoothly and adjust the needle tension and differential feed settings as needed.

Frequently asked questions