Hemming Stretchy T-Shirts: A Step-By-Step Guide To Success

how to hem a stretchy t shirt

Hemming a t-shirt is a simple process that can be done by hand or with a sewing machine. It is important to use a stretch, ballpoint needle designed for sewing on knits to prevent fabric needle punctures and skipped stitches. The process involves turning the shirt inside out, cutting it to the desired length, folding the hem, pressing it flat with an iron, and then sewing it in place. For a more professional finish, a twin needle or a stretch stitch can be used.

Characteristics Values
Sewing machine settings Stretch-stitch, zigzag stitch, straight-stitch, 10-12 stitches per inch (2.5mm setting), 3.5 mm wide, 1.4 mm long zigzag-stitch, 2.5mm long stretch-stitch
Sewing needle type Twin needle, standard needle, stretch needle, ballpoint needle, jersey needle
Sewing technique Double stitching, stitching on the right side of the T-shirt, stitching 1/4" from hem allowance edge, stretching fabric while sewing, stitching 1/8" to 1/4" from the first row
Sewing preparation Turn the shirt inside out, cut the shirt to the desired length, fold the hem, press the hem with an iron, secure the hem with sewing pins, use sewing tape
Sewing tools Sewing pins, sewing machine, iron, iron-on hem tape, ruler, dressmaker's chalk, dressmaker's pen

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Using a twin needle

Hemming a stretchy T-shirt using a twin needle can be tricky, but the right techniques and tools can help you achieve a neat and professional-looking hem. Here are some detailed instructions on how to use a twin needle to hem your stretchy T-shirt:

Choosing the Right Twin Needle:

  • The twin needle has two parallel needles that create two rows of straight stitches on the upper side and a zigzag pattern underneath, allowing the stitch to stretch.
  • For stretchy T-shirts, select a stretch twin needle or a ballpoint needle designed specifically for sewing knit fabrics. This type of needle prevents skipped stitches and pierces the fabric without breaking it.
  • The standard width for stretch twin needles is 4.0 mm, but you can also find narrower options, such as 2.5 mm. Choose the width that works best for your fabric.
  • The space between the needles can vary from 1.6 mm to 6 mm. Smaller distances are suitable for decorative tucks, while 4 mm and wider needles are ideal for hemming.

Preparing Your Sewing Machine:

  • Consult your sewing machine's manual to ensure it can accommodate a twin needle. Some machines have specific settings or buttons for twin needles.
  • If your machine has two pins, place one thread spool or wound bobbin on each. If it only has one pin, wind two bobbins and stack them on top of each other.
  • Always raise the presser foot when threading the machine to release the tension disks.
  • Thread the machine as you normally would, being careful not to tangle the threads. Ensure both threads pass through the tension disks.
  • If your machine has two separate thread guides above the needles, use them to prevent thread tangling.

Sewing with the Twin Needle:

  • Set up your machine for a regular straight stitch unless your machine has a special twin-needle setting.
  • A good starting point for stitch length is between 2.5 to 3 mm. Remember, the zigzag pattern underneath adds stretch, so a longer stitch length reduces stretch.
  • A slightly lower tension setting usually looks better and helps prevent puckering and tunneling.
  • If you experience tunneling, reduce the needle tension to make the fabric lie flatter, but be aware that this may cause uneven tension on the reverse side.
  • While it is generally advised not to backstitch when using a twin needle, you can do so over tricky areas if needed. Just ensure that the threads don't tangle.

Troubleshooting Common Problems:

  • To prevent stretched-out fabric, use double-sided washable tape or a stabiliser, or try feeding the upper layer with an awl or a walking foot to control the fabric feeding.
  • If you encounter tunnelling (ridges between the two rows of stitches), reduce needle tension, stitch over the same amount of fabric layers, use fusible stretch interfacing on the folded hem, or experiment with the bobbin tension as a last resort.
  • To avoid skipped stitches, use a stretch knit ballpoint twin needle, flatten uneven surfaces, clip the seam allowance, hammer down the seam, or use a height compensation tool.
  • If your threads get twisted and knotted, rethread the needles, use high-quality threads, and ensure the threads are unwinding in opposite directions.

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Using a standard needle and stretch stitch

Hemming a stretchy T-shirt with a standard needle and stretch stitch is a simple process, but it does require some preparation. Firstly, you will need to gather the right tools and materials, including a sewing machine, polyester thread, a standard needle, and the T-shirt you want to hem. It is important to use polyester thread as it is strong and less likely to break when sewing stretchy fabric.

Once you have your materials, start by turning the T-shirt inside out and trying it on. Use chalk or a washable fabric marker to mark the desired length on the inside of the shirt. Take the shirt off and lay it flat, then measure and cut the bottom of the shirt ½” longer than your previous mark. This will give you enough fabric to fold under and create a neat hem.

Next, fold the bottom edge of the shirt up by ½”, creating a single fold around the bottom edge. Use an iron to gently press this fold and secure it with sewing pins or quilting clips. Now, you are ready to start sewing. Set your sewing machine to a stretch stitch and thread it with cotton or polyester thread that matches the main colour of the shirt.

Begin sewing at the side seam of the shirt, stretching the fabric slightly as you sew. Continue sewing around the bottom edge of the shirt, holding the new folded hem in place as you go. When you have finished, remove the pins and give the hem a final press to flatten the stitches, giving it a professional finish.

If you want to practise your technique before hemming your T-shirt, it is a good idea to test the stitch on a scrap of the T-shirt fabric first. This will allow you to adjust the settings and ensure that the hem is flat and smooth before you start sewing the actual garment.

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Using a zigzag stitch

Hemming a stretchy T-shirt can be a challenge, but using a zigzag stitch is a great way to do it. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to hem a stretchy T-shirt using a zigzag stitch:

Prepare the T-shirt:

  • Turn the T-shirt inside out and try it on.
  • Use chalk or a washable fabric marker to mark the desired length on the inside of the shirt.
  • Take the shirt off and lay it flat. Measure and mark a line that is exactly 1/2" longer than your previous mark. This extra 1/2" will be used to create the new hem.
  • With the shirt still inside out, cut off the bottom of the shirt along the marking.
  • Fold the bottom edge of the shirt up by 1/2" to create a neat, single fold around the bottom edge.
  • Gently press this fold with an iron to create a crisp edge for your hem.
  • Use sewing pins or quilting clips to hold the fold firmly in place.

Sewing the Hem:

  • Set up your sewing machine: Thread your machine with cotton or polyester thread that matches the main colour of the shirt. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle in your machine, designed specifically for sewing on knits.
  • Set your machine to a zigzag stitch: Choose an almost-flat zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch if your machine has that option. A narrow zigzag stitch will be less noticeable. Set the stitch width and length as needed (e.g. 3.5mm wide and 1.4mm long).
  • Start sewing: Begin sewing at the side seam of the shirt and work your way around the bottom edge, holding the new folded hem in place as you sew. Do not stretch the fabric as you sew, as this can cause ripples. Allow the fabric to feed naturally under the needle. The zigzag stitch has built-in stretch, so there is no need to manually stretch the fabric.
  • Finish the hem: Once you've sewn around the entire bottom edge, finish off the thread securely and cut off any excess.

Tips for Success:

  • Test your hemming technique: Before starting, it's a good idea to test your chosen hemming method on a scrap of the T-shirt fabric. This will allow you to adjust any settings and ensure that your final hem lies flat and smooth.
  • Stabilise the fabric: If your fabric is lightweight or prone to curling, consider using a stabiliser such as fusible elastic interfacing, fabric spray starch, or wash-away stabilisers. This will help prevent puckering and curling, resulting in a more professional-looking hem.
  • Needle selection: Always use a ballpoint or stretch needle when sewing knits. These needles are designed to glide through the fabric without piercing and breaking the fibres.
  • Presser foot pressure: If your presser foot is pushing the fabric ahead, you may need to reduce the presser foot pressure. Refer to your machine manual for instructions on adjusting the pressure.

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Using a multistep zigzag stitch

Hemming a stretchy T-shirt can be tricky, but using a multistep zigzag stitch is a great way to get a professional-looking result. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you achieve a neat and stretchy hem:

Prepare the T-shirt:

First, try on the T-shirt inside out and mark the desired length with chalk or a washable fabric marker. Take the shirt off and lay it flat. Measure and mark a line that is exactly 1/2" longer than your previous mark, as this will be the new hem allowance. With the markings facing up, cut off the bottom of the shirt along this line. Now, fold the bottom edge up by 1/2" towards the wrong side of the fabric to create a neat hem. Gently press this fold with an iron and secure it with sewing pins or quilting clips.

Set up your sewing machine:

Thread your sewing machine with cotton or polyester thread that matches the main colour of the T-shirt. For stretchy fabrics, it is recommended to use a ballpoint or stretch needle in your machine, which is designed to glide through the fabric without piercing and breaking the fibres. Set your machine to a multistep zigzag stitch with a width of 3.5 mm and a length of 1.4 mm. This type of stitch has built-in stretch, making it ideal for sewing knits and elastic.

Sew the hem:

Start sewing at the side seam of the T-shirt, stitching along the hem allowance edge. Do not stretch the fabric as you sew, but allow it to feed gently through the machine. The zigzag stitch will provide the necessary stretch. Remove the pins before the needle reaches them to avoid any accidents. Continue sewing around the bottom edge of the shirt, holding the new folded hem in place as you go.

Finishing touches:

Once you've sewn the hem, give it a final press with the iron to ensure a smooth and flat finish. If you find any ripples or puckering, you can use hemming tape to stabilise the fabric and improve the result. Simply place the tape on the wrong side of the fabric, along the hem, and press it with the iron to activate its adhesive properties.

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Using a stretch-stitch

Hemming a stretchy T-shirt using a stretch stitch is a great way to get a professional-looking finish. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you achieve that polished look:

Prepare Your T-Shirt:

  • Place your T-shirt on a flat surface with the wrong side facing up.
  • Fold the edge of the fabric to achieve the desired finished length. Ensure that both sides are of equal length, especially if you're hemming sleeves.
  • Use an iron to press the fold and create a crisp edge.

Stitching Tips:

  • Select a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. The stretch stitch is designed to provide strength and flexibility to your hem.
  • Use a ballpoint or stretch needle in your machine. This type of needle glides through the fabric without piercing and breaking the fibres.
  • If available, use a walking foot on your machine. This helps feed the two layers of fabric evenly, resulting in a flat hem.
  • Always use polyester thread when sewing stretchy fabric. Polyester thread is strong and less likely to break compared to cheaper alternatives.
  • Match the thread colour to your T-shirt for a seamless finish.

Sewing the Hem:

  • Start sewing at the side seam of the T-shirt.
  • Gently stretch the fabric slightly as you sew, especially when using a straight stitch. This helps prevent popped stitches when the garment is stretched.
  • For a zigzag stitch, do not stretch the fabric. Allow it to feed naturally under the needle to avoid ripples in the hem.
  • Sew along the edge of the fold, maintaining a consistent stitch length.
  • Trim any excess fabric, leaving about 1/4 inch beyond the stitching.
  • Turn the T-shirt inside out and press the hem again, using an iron and a pressing cloth to protect the fabric from the heat.
  • If desired, sew along the edge of the fold a second time for added durability.

Remember to test your stitch and tension settings on a scrap of fabric before starting your project. Happy sewing!

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Frequently asked questions

You will need a stretch or ballpoint needle, also known as a jersey needle. This type of needle is designed for sewing on knits and will prevent skipped stitches and fabric punctures.

To prevent waviness, reduce the presser foot pressure on your sewing machine. If your machine does not allow you to do this, consider using double-sided sticky tape made for sewing to temporarily secure the hem.

No, you do not need to finish the raw edge because T-shirt fabric does not fray. However, you can serge the raw edge if you want a neater finish on the inside.

You can use a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch. The stretch stitch is ideal for sewing on knits as it builds stretch into the stitching.

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