Hemming T-Shirts: A Guide To Sewing Machine Techniques

T-shirts are a staple in most wardrobes, but the standard sizing doesn't always fit everyone perfectly. If you've found a T-shirt that you like but want to alter the length, you can use a sewing machine to create a new hem. This process involves removing the existing bottom hem, measuring and marking the desired length, cutting the fabric, applying a fabric stabilizer, folding and pinning the new hem, and then sewing it into place. The result is a T-shirt that fits you comfortably and complements your body shape.

Selecting the appropriate length

To select the appropriate length, start by trying on the T-shirt. Assess how much fabric needs to be removed to achieve your desired length. Mark this new length with a fabric marker or chalk. It is important to consider the style of the shirt, as different styles may require varying amounts of fabric to be removed. For example, a casual T-shirt may be shortened differently from a formal dress shirt.

After marking the desired length, lay the T-shirt on a flat surface, right side up, and press it flat to remove any wrinkles. Then, using a measuring tape, measure straight up from the bottom of the fabric to the marker dot. Move the measuring tape around the bottom of the T-shirt, making several additional dots to ensure an even and straight hemline.

Once the desired length is determined and marked, you can proceed to the next steps of the hemming process, which include measuring and marking the desired hemline and preparing the shirt for hemming.

Measuring and marking the desired hemline

First, put on the T-shirt and determine the desired length. Use a fabric marker to mark this new length by making a dot on the T-shirt. Take off the T-shirt and lay it on a flat surface, ensuring it is wrinkle-free. Now, use a measuring tape to measure the distance from the bottom edge of the shirt to the marker dot. This measurement will be your guide for the new hemline.

Move the measuring tape around the bottom of the T-shirt, marking the same measurement on both sides of the shirt with additional dots. Ensure that the marks are even and straight. These marks will serve as a guide for cutting and hemming the T-shirt to the desired length.

At this point, you can also cut around the bottom of the T-shirt, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the dots, to allow for a seam allowance for the new hem. Remember to consider the type of fabric you are working with, as different fabrics may require different seam allowances. After cutting, turn the T-shirt inside out to begin the hemming process.

If you are working with a fabric that is prone to fraying, you may want to finish the raw edges before proceeding. You can do this by using a serger or a zigzag stitch to prevent the fabric from unraveling. Additionally, you can apply a fabric stabilizer to the bottom edge of the shirt to keep it straight and prevent it from rolling up or getting caught in the sewing machine. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for applying the fabric stabilizer, and allow it to dry completely before proceeding to the next step.

Now that you have measured and marked the desired hemline, you can continue with the hemming process, following the guide and techniques that best suit your T-shirt.

Preparing the shirt for hemming

Selecting the Appropriate Length

First, put on the T-shirt and determine the ideal length based on your comfort and style preferences. Different styles may require varying amounts of fabric to be removed. For instance, a casual T-shirt might be shortened differently than a formal dress shirt.

Measuring and Marking the Desired Hemline

Use a measuring tape to carefully measure the distance from the bottom edge of the shirt to the desired new hemline. Mark this measurement with fabric chalk or pins on both sides of the shirt, ensuring the marks are even and straight for a professional result.

Removing the Old Hem

Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the stitches from the existing hem. Take your time to avoid damaging the fabric, and press out any creases or marks left behind with an iron.

Unfolding and Pressing the Bottom

Unfold the creased bottom of the T-shirt and press it flat with an iron. Use the "Cotton" or "Knit" setting to remove the crease, making the material easier to work with.

Cutting the Bottom

Cut around the bottom of the T-shirt, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the marked hemline. This will give you a seam allowance for the new hem. Remove the cut-off bottom part of the shirt.

Turning the Shirt Inside Out

After making the necessary measurements and cuts, turn the T-shirt inside out. This will prepare the shirt for the next steps of hemming and sewing.

Applying Fabric Stabilizer (Optional)

If your fabric is prone to fraying or rolling up, apply a fabric stabilizer to the bottom edge of the shirt. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for application, as they vary depending on the type of stabilizer. Allow the stabilizer to dry completely before proceeding.

Now that the shirt is prepared for hemming, you can continue with the actual hemming process, including folding, pinning, and sewing the new hem.

Sewing techniques for hemming a shirt

Hemming a T-shirt with a sewing machine is a great way to alter the length of a T-shirt to achieve a comfortable fit. Here are some sewing techniques for hemming a shirt:

Preparation

Before beginning the hemming process, it is crucial to prepare the shirt. This includes trying on the shirt to determine the desired length, marking the new hemline with fabric chalk or pins, and removing any buttons or embellishments from the area to be hemmed. If the fabric is prone to fraying, consider finishing the raw edges with a serger or a zigzag stitch.

Folded Hem Method

The folded hem method is commonly used for casual shirts. It involves the following steps:

• Folding and Pressing: Fold the fabric up to the marked hemline, creating a small fold on the wrong side of the fabric. Press the fold with an iron to hold it in place.
• Securing with Pins: Insert pins vertically along the folded edge to secure the hem and prevent the fabric from shifting during sewing.
• Sewing the Hem: Using a straight stitch, sew close to the folded edge of the hem. Remove the pins as you sew, ensuring a smooth and even stitch line. Don't forget to backstitch at the beginning and end for added security.

Blind Hem Method

The blind hem method creates an almost invisible hem, making it ideal for dress shirts or garments where a visible hemline is undesirable. Here are the steps:

• Marking the Fold Line: Measure and mark a specific distance from the bottom edge of the shirt. This determines how much fabric will be folded for the blind hem.
• Folding and Pressing: Fold the fabric along the marked line, tucking the raw edge inside. Press the fold with an iron to create a crisp crease.
• Sewing the Blind Hem: Use a blind hem foot on your sewing machine and select the appropriate stitch setting. Sew along the fold, catching only a few threads from the folded side and occasionally anchoring it with a small stitch.

Rolled Hem Method

The rolled hem method is perfect for lightweight fabrics as it provides a delicate, narrow finish. Here's how to do it:

• Folding and Pressing: First, fold the raw edge of the fabric about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) to the wrong side and press it with an iron. Then, fold the fabric again to encase the raw edge within the hem and press this second fold as well.
• Securing with Pins: Insert pins vertically into the hemmed edge to hold the roll in place and prevent slipping during sewing.
• Sewing the Rolled Hem: Use a straight stitch or a narrow rolled hem stitch on your sewing machine, sewing close to the inner folded edge of the hem. Remove pins as you sew and backstitch at the beginning and end for added durability.

Finishing Touches

After hemming, there are a few final steps to enhance the overall look and durability of your hem:

• Trimming Excess Fabric: Carefully trim any excess fabric close to the stitch line, leaving a small allowance to prevent fraying over time.
• Pressing the Hem: Use an iron to press the hem, setting the iron to the appropriate heat setting for the fabric type. Press along the folded edge to create a crisp and smooth finish, improving the durability of the hem.
• Inspecting and Adjusting: Closely inspect the hem for any unevenness or loose stitches. If necessary, re-stitch or adjust the hem to ensure it is even and secure.

Finishing touches

Once you've sewn the hem, there are a few more steps to ensure a professional finish. Firstly, carefully trim any excess fabric close to the stitch line, being careful not to cut into the main body of the T-shirt. Leave a small allowance to prevent fraying or unravelling. Next, use an iron to press the hem, setting the iron to the appropriate heat for the fabric type. Press the hem along the folded edge to create a crisp, smooth appearance. Pressing will also help the stitches settle and improve the overall durability of the hem.

After pressing, closely inspect the hem for any unevenness or loose stitches. If you notice any imperfections, take the time to fix them by re-stitching or adjusting the hem as needed. It is important to ensure the hem is even and secure before completing the final steps. Finally, launder the T-shirt as usual to remove any remaining stiffness from the fabric stabilizer.

Frequently asked questions