Creating A Custom Tank Top: Pattern-Making Guide

Tank tops are a staple in any wardrobe, and making your own is a fun and rewarding project. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced sewist, creating a custom tank top pattern is an achievable task. You can draft a pattern from an existing tank top or create one from scratch using your own measurements. This involves tracing the outline, adding a seam allowance, and cutting out the pattern pieces. You can then transfer the pattern to your fabric, sew it together, and finish the raw edges. With the right tools and guidance, you can make a unique tank top that fits your style and body perfectly.

Drafting the pattern: Trace an existing tank top or freehand the pattern based on your measurements

To make a custom tank top, you can either trace an existing tank top or freehand the pattern based on your measurements. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to draft the pattern for your custom tank top:

Tracing an Existing Tank Top:

• Find a basic tank top that fits you well. Avoid using tank tops with darts, pleats, or other accents.
• Fold the tank top in half along its vertical center, making sure the front neckline remains visible. Place it on top of a large piece of paper, such as brown drafting paper or blank newsprint.
• Trace around the entire outline of the tank top, then add a seam allowance by drawing a second outline about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) outside the first. If you're using a knit tank as a guide but want to make a woven version, add an extra 1 inch (2.5 cm) to the seam allowance.
• Move the folded tank to another section of the paper. Carefully fold the back neckline between the straps and trace around it, adding the seam allowance. Make sure the rest of the perimeter remains even when you fold the neckline.
• Cut out the pattern pieces, including the seam allowances. Label them as "Back" and "Front" and mark where the fold sits on each piece.

Freehanding the Pattern:

• Take your measurements: bust/chest, armhole depth, neck depth, neck width, and desired length. For a slightly loose tank top, add 1 inch (2.5 cm) to the bust/chest measurement.
• Sketch the front outline: Draw a rectangle with a height matching your desired length and a width of half your bust/chest size.
• Create the neck opening: Measure down from the top left corner of the rectangle by your neck depth and mark this point. Then, measure across from the same corner by half your neck width plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) and mark this point. Draw a curved line between these two points to create the neckline.
• Create the armhole: From the upper end of the neckline, measure 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) along the top for the straps. From the upper right corner of the rectangle, measure down by your armhole depth and mark this point. Draw a curved line between these two points to create the armhole.
• Add a seam allowance: Draw a second outline about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) outside the first.
• Sketch the back outline: Draw another rectangle with the same height and width as the front.
• Create the neck opening: Measure down from the top left corner by 2 to 3 inches (depending on the desired height) and mark this point. Then, measure across from the same corner by half your neck width plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) and mark this point. Draw a curved line between these points to create the back neckline.
• Create the armhole using the same measurements and method as the front.
• Add a seam allowance of 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) around the finished outline.
• Cut out both pattern pieces along the outside perimeter of the seam allowances. Label them as "Front" and "Back" and mark the fold line on each piece.

Choosing fabric: Opt for natural fabrics like cotton or linen for breathability

When making a custom tank top, it is important to consider the type of fabric you will be using. Opting for natural fabrics such as cotton, linen, bamboo, or merino wool ensures breathability, comfort, and excellent air circulation—key factors for a tank top, especially in warm weather.

Cotton, a natural fiber, is an ideal choice due to its softness, breathability, and moisture-wicking properties. It is highly absorbent, drawing moisture away from the body and allowing it to evaporate quickly, keeping you dry and comfortable. Additionally, cotton is sustainable and eco-friendly, grown without synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, making it a healthier and more environmentally conscious option.

Linen, derived from the flax plant, is another excellent choice for tank tops. Linen fibers are large, and linen clothing typically features more open weaves, making it highly breathable and comfortable for summer wear. Linen is also known for its timeless appeal, making it a versatile and sophisticated addition to your wardrobe.

For a beautiful and breathable tank top, natural fabrics are the way to go. They provide the comfort and breathability needed for warm weather, and some, like cotton, offer the added benefit of sustainability and moisture-wicking, ensuring you stay cool and dry.

Cutting the fabric: Cut the pattern pieces from the fabric, ensuring the stretch direction is correct

When you're ready to cut the fabric, make sure you have the pattern pieces ready. You can use an existing tank top as a guide or draft the pattern from scratch using your own measurements. Either way, make sure the pattern pieces include seam allowances.

Now, it's time to cut the fabric. Start by folding your fabric in half, with the right sides facing each other. Place the pattern pieces on the fabric, lining up the "fold" marks with the actual fold of the fabric. Try to keep the pattern pieces and fabric as flat as possible. Use fabric chalk or a fabric pencil to trace the outline of the pattern pieces onto the fabric.

Once you're happy with the placement, carefully cut along the traced lines using fabric scissors, pinking shears, or a rotary cutter. Cut both pieces at the same time, making sure to cut through both layers of fabric. If you're using pinking shears, the cut edges will be automatically finished, and you can skip the next step.

After cutting out the pieces, unfold them and separate them. Now, you'll want to finish the raw edges to prevent fraying. Fold the edges inward twice, creating a neat finish. Press the folds in place with an iron and secure them with pins. You can also stitch along the folds to secure them in place, using a zigzag stitch for more stretch.

Sewing the pieces: Pin and sew the front and back pieces together, then finish the raw edges

To sew the pieces of your tank top together, start by laying the front piece face-up, then place the back piece face-down on top of it. Ensure that the straps, armpit area, and side seams are all aligned and pin the two pieces together. The "right" sides of the fabric should face each other, while the "wrong" sides should face outward. Pin the shoulders and sides in place, but not the remaining edges.

Using a sewing machine, stitch along the upper part of the shoulder straps and along both side edges, using a seam allowance of no more than 1/4 inch (0.6 cm). This will create seams at the shoulders and sides, which are the only seams needed for this garment. A zigzag stitch is preferable to a straight stitch as it gives the fabric more stretch and helps minimise fraying.

Now that the sides and shoulders are sewn together, it's time to hem the remaining raw edges: the open bottom, neckline, and armholes. Machine stitch along these edges, again using a seam allowance of no more than 1/4 inch (0.6 cm). Sew around the entire opening, but do not stitch the front and back pieces together at this stage. Use a standard straight stitch for this step, rather than a zigzag stitch.

Adding details: Consider adding darts for a better fit, pockets, or a button opening at the back

Adding darts, pockets, or a button opening at the back can be a great way to elevate your custom tank top pattern. Here are some detailed instructions to help you with these additions:

Darts for a Better Fit:

Darts are a great way to add shape and contour to your tank top. To add darts, you will need to make adjustments to your pattern before cutting the fabric. Decide where you want the darts to be placed, such as at the bust or waist. Measure the desired length of the dart and mark it on your pattern. Draw a triangle with the desired length and a base that is half the width of the dart. Cut along the side seams of the triangle up to the point, being careful not to cut through the pattern. When you pin your fabric, match the dart lines and sew along the dart lines, tapering the fabric as you go.

Pockets:

Pockets can be a functional and stylish addition to your tank top. There are a few ways to add pockets, but one common method is to add them to the side seams. First, create a pattern for your pocket. Cut out a piece of paper in the shape of your desired pocket, considering the depth and width. Place the pattern on your tank top pattern to ensure it is the right size and adjust as needed. Fold your fabric in half and cut out the pocket pieces, adding a seam allowance. Decide where you want the pocket to be placed and mark the placement with pins. Open the side seam using a seam ripper and place the pocket piece with right sides together, lining up the straight edge with the side seam. Sew the pocket to the skirt using the appropriate seam allowance. Repeat for the other side, ensuring that the pocket pieces line up evenly.

Button Opening at the Back:

Adding a button opening at the back of your tank top can be a stylish detail and make it easier to put on and take off. To do this, you will need to create a slit at the back and add buttons and buttonholes. Decide on the placement of the slit and mark it on your pattern. Cut the slit open and finish the edges to prevent fraying. Create buttonholes on one side of the slit and sew buttons on the other side, aligning them with the buttonholes. You can add a facing or placket to the slit for a more polished look.

Remember to consider the placement of these details and ensure that they align with your desired outcome. Adding darts, pockets, or a button opening can enhance the fit, functionality, and style of your custom tank top.

Frequently asked questions