
Tank tops are sleeveless tops usually made from stretchy knit fabric and can be tight or relaxed-fitting. They are a great DIY project for both sewing beginners and experts as they allow for creativity in fabric choice and design. You can make a tank top with a deep O-neck by following these simple steps. First, create a pattern by tracing around a tank top you already own that fits well. The front and back pieces of your tank will be the same size and shape, with the only difference being that the front neckline will plunge quite a bit lower than the back. Next, cut out your pattern pieces from your chosen fabric—you will need two tank fronts and two tank backs. Then, with right sides together, sew the front and back pieces together at the neckline and armholes, leaving the shoulder, side, and bottom seams unstitched. After that, trim the seam allowances, make notches to release tension, and press the seams open. Finally, turn the back piece right sides out and insert it into the front piece, then pin and sew the shoulders together. Give your finished tank a good press, and you're done!
What You'll Learn
Choosing the right fabric
Stretch and Recovery:
Tank tops are typically made from light to medium-weight knit fabrics with good stretch and recovery properties. Stretch is important for ease of movement and a comfortable fit, while recovery ensures that the fabric returns to its original shape after stretching. Look for fabrics with a four-way stretch and at least 50% stretchability.
Fabric Content:
The most common fabric types for tank tops include cotton, cotton blends, spandex, lycra, and bamboo blends. Cotton and cotton blends, such as cotton-spandex or cotton-viscose/poly jerseys, provide breathability and comfort. Spandex and lycra offer excellent stretch and recovery. Bamboo blends are ideal if you want a draping effect for your tank top.
Fabric Weight:
Light to medium-weight fabrics are best suited for tank tops. Heavier fabrics may cause discomfort and trap too much heat. Lighter fabrics will help keep you cool during warm weather.
Drape:
If you're looking for a flowy and elegant look, consider choosing a fabric with good drape. Fabrics like viscose, rayon, challis, crepe, or viscose/linen blends will create a beautiful drape for your tank top.
Opacity:
For a deep O-neck tank top, it is essential to consider the opacity of the fabric. Choose a fabric that is not too sheer to avoid revealing too much. A fabric with a slight sheen can also enhance the look of the deep neckline.
Colour and Pattern:
The colour and pattern of the fabric will depend on your personal preference and style. Solid colours are versatile and can be easily paired with other garments. Patterns like stripes or florals can add a unique touch to your tank top.
Care Instructions:
Consider the care instructions of the fabric to ensure easy maintenance. Look for fabrics that are machine washable and dryable, or choose fabrics that can be hand washed and air-dried if you prefer a more delicate approach.
Sewing Experience:
If you are a beginner sewer, opt for more forgiving fabrics that are simple to work with. Stable knit fabrics, such as cotton blends, are usually easier to handle and sew. As you gain more experience, you can explore fabrics with more stretch or those that require more precise techniques.
Remember to purchase enough fabric to account for the length and width of your desired tank top, as well as any pattern matching or cutting adjustments you may need to make. Happy sewing!
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Creating a pattern
To create a pattern for a deep O-neck sleeveless tank top, follow these steps:
Step 1: Draft the pattern
Trace around a tank top you already own that fits well. The front and back pieces of the tank will be almost identical in size and shape, with the only difference being that the front neckline will plunge lower than the back. If you want to add an opening with a button loop and button at the back, you can do so, but it's not necessary as the tank can easily be worn without it.
Step 2: Create a master pattern copy
Cut out your first draft on inexpensive fabric or an old sheet to check the shape before cutting more expensive fabric. Copy the pattern pieces you've made onto another piece of inexpensive fabric. This way, if your first draft needs adjustments, you can make them on the copy and keep the original as a master pattern for future use.
Step 3: Add darts (optional)
Darts are folds in the fabric that give a little more shape around curvy areas, such as the bust. To make them, go down about two inches from the armpit on one side of the front pattern piece and create a 3/4" fold that tapers in and ends about 4" in from the side seam. Press it in place and sew it. Trim the excess fabric from the dart so that you have nice straight lines.
Step 4: Finalize the pattern
Once you're happy with your pattern, cut out the pieces from your chosen fabric and get ready to start sewing your tank top!
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Cutting the fabric
The first step to making a deep O-neck sleeveless tank top is to cut the fabric according to the pattern and desired style. It is important to choose a suitable fabric, such as lightweight knit fabrics with good recovery for a stretchy and form-fitting tank top. The amount of fabric needed will depend on the desired length and style of the tank top, but typically around 1.5 yards of fabric is sufficient.
To create the pattern, trace around a well-fitting tank top to use as a guide. The front and back pieces of the pattern should be similar in size and shape, with the front neckline plunging lower than the back. It is recommended to create a master pattern copy by cutting the first draft out of a piece of inexpensive fabric to ensure the shape is correct before cutting the final pieces from more expensive fabric. This master pattern can be used to make multiple tank tops in the future.
The next step is to cut out the fabric pieces for the tank top, including the front, back, and any additional pieces such as straps or ruffles. It is important to allow for seam allowances when cutting the fabric, typically around 3/8" to 1/4" is sufficient. Additionally, notches or clips can be made at the curves of the fabric, such as the armholes, to release tension and create a smoother finish.
Before assembling the fabric pieces, it is a good idea to finish the raw edges of the fabric to prevent fraying and create a neat appearance. This can be done by folding and pressing the edges, and then sewing them in place.
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Sewing the pieces together
Now that you have your fabric cut out and ready to go, it's time to start sewing the pieces together.
Start by assembling the front pieces together. Pin the outer fabric and the lining right sides together, focusing on the neckline edges and the armholes. Sew the neckline and the armholes with a 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance. The shoulder, side, and bottom seams are left unstitched. When you reach the V-neckline, stop with the needle still in the fabric and sew one or two stitches straight and turn the fabric to sew the rest of the V. Repeat this process for the two back pieces: pin the neckline and the armholes right sides together and stitch 3/8" (1 cm) from the edge.
Trim the seam allowances to 1/4" (6 mm) and make a few notches to release the tension: clip to but not through the stitch line at the V-point and around the armhole curves. Press the seams open.
Turn your back piece right sides out and insert it into the front piece (wrong side out). The right sides should be touching. Pin the shoulders together (all four layers of fabric). Stitch the shoulders together at 3/8" (1 cm) and trim the seam allowance to 1/4" (6 mm). Turn the front piece right side out and admire your neat shoulder seams with no raw edges exposed as they are enclosed between the outer fabric and the lining.
Now, turn your top wrong sides facing out and pin the side seams right sides together: lining to lining and main fabric to main fabric. Make a 5" mark from the bottom hem – this will be the size of your side slit. You can adjust this measurement if you want a smaller or larger slit. Stitch the side seams together (but not the slits) with the usual 3/8" seam allowance, then trim and press the seams open.
Turn your top wrong sides out and pin the slit+hem edges right sides together: front outer fabric to front lining and back outer fabric to back lining. Check that everything is pinned correctly, then stitch along the edge at a 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance but leave a 4" opening at one of the slits. We'll use this opening to pull the top right side out. Trim and press the seam allowances open.
Pull the right side of the top out through the opening and press all the edges flat. Tuck in and press the seam allowance of the opening. Pin and topstitch around all edges (neckline, armholes, slits, and bottom hem) to stabilize and keep them in place. When you reach the opening, tuck in the raw edges inside and topstitch the gap.
Give your finished tank a good press and you're done!
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Finishing the edges
There are several ways to finish the edges of your deep O-neck sleeveless tank top. Here are four common methods to clean-finish the seams:
- Serging or Zig-Zag Stitch: This is the most common method, which can be done on a home sewing machine. First, sew your seam together. Then, run a serging or zig-zag stitch along the edge of the raw fabric. Finally, iron the excess seam allowance towards the back of the garment. This method works well for delicate fabrics like silk and chiffon, and it creates a dainty, durable finish.
- French Seam: The French seam is ideal for lightweight fabrics. First, sew the fabric with wrong sides together at a 3/8" seam allowance. Then, trim both sides of the seam allowance to 1/4". Press the seam as sewn. Fold the fabric back on itself, enclosing the raw edges, and sew a second seam at 1/4" wide. Press the seam allowance to one side and iron the fold towards the back of the garment.
- Turn Under and Stitch: This method is suitable for light and medium-weight fabrics. Stitch the seam and press it open. Press under the raw edge of one side of the seam allowance by 1/8", then edge stitch the fold. Repeat this step for the other side.
- Using Binding: This finish is commonly used for outerwear like jackets, trench coats, and heavier cardigans. You can make your own binding by cutting a strip of fabric on the bias and triple-folding it, or buy pre-cut, pre-folded binding. Stitch the seam with the face of the fabric touching. Unfold the binding and align one edge with the raw edge of the fabric, then stitch on top of the binding's fold line. Close the binding's fold, enclosing the raw edges, and sew a straight stitch on the open side, close to the fold line. Iron the seam allowance towards the back of the garment.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need 1.5 yards of fabric, a matching thread, a sewing machine, and a pattern.
You can create a pattern by tracing around a tank top that fits you well. The front and back pieces of the tank will be the same size and shape, but the front neckline will plunge lower than the back.
Light to medium-weight knit fabrics with good recovery are commonly used for tank tops. Fabrics with lycra or elastane will give a good amount of stretch and recovery. Some examples include cotton-blend jersey, rib knit, lycra, and spandex.
A simple tank top with a scoop neckline and wide straps is a good beginner project. This style is easy to sew and does not require any complex techniques.