Crafting A Fur Coat: Using Pelts To Create Warmth

Making a fur coat from pelts is a complex process that requires a lot of time, effort, and craftsmanship. It involves several steps, from sourcing the pelts to cutting, sewing, and assembling them into a finished garment. The process begins with selecting and arranging the pelts, considering their size, shape, colour, and type of animal fur. The pelts are then cut and sewn together, either by hand or using a specialised fur sewing machine, to create a flat blanket. This step is tedious and time-consuming, requiring careful attention to match the grain, hair colour, and pattern of the fur. After the blanket is created, coat patterns are cut out and sewn together, and the coat is lined with satin, silk, or cloth. The process requires specific tools and materials, such as sharp knives, strong thread, leather or furrier's needles, and sewing machines with leather needles.

Sourcing pelts

It is important to consider the treatment of the fur to ensure its durability, softness, and lightness. Manufacturers from Italy are known for their advanced treatment processes, making the country a main source of fur for the fashion industry. The process of treating fur involves "dressing" the pelt, which means tanning the leather side to keep it soft and pliable. This is done using gentle chemicals such as table salt, water, alum salts, and natural oils.

When sourcing pelts, it is essential to keep in mind the number and size of pelts required for your fur coat. For example, a small throw or lap blanket made from rabbit fur may require up to 50 pelts, while a larger throw for a double bed can take up to 100 pelts.

Tools and materials

Making a fur coat from pelts requires a variety of tools and materials, including:

• Sharp knife: A sharp knife, such as an X-acto knife, box cutter, or razor blade, is necessary for cutting the pelts without damaging the fur.
• Rotary cutter or utility knife: These tools are useful for creating straight and accurate cuts through the skin side of the pelts.
• Ruler: A ruler helps in making straight cuts and measuring the pelt skins before cutting.
• Binder or quilting clips: These clips are used to hold the pelt edges together, ensuring they do not slip or overlap during sewing.
• Needles: Special needles are required for sewing fur. A triangular leather needle is ideal for hand sewing, while a leather needle should be used with a sewing machine.
• Thread: Waxed linen or silk buttonhole thread is recommended for hand sewing, while all-purpose or heavy-duty thread can be used with a sewing machine.
• Satin, silk, or cloth lining: After sewing the pelt pieces together, the coat needs to be lined for a comfortable and finished look.
• Fastenings: Depending on the coat design, you may need zippers, buttons, or other fasteners.
• Patterns: Creating a pattern for the coat ensures a better fit and helps in cutting the pelts accordingly.
• Awl: An awl can be used to pre-punch holes in thicker hides before sewing by hand.
• Ribbon: When using a traditional sewing machine, placing a ribbon on top of the fur can help prevent damage to the fur.
• Scissors: While not recommended for cutting pelts, scissors are useful for cutting fabric lining and other materials.
• Thimble: A thimble can be useful when hand sewing, especially when working with thicker hides.

It is important to note that some specialized tools, such as a fur sewing machine, may also be required for more complex projects or larger coats.

Cutting pelts

Firstly, it is important to arrange the pelts and determine how you want them to be sewn together. This involves positioning the pelts with the fur sides facing up and figuring out how they will fit together. Keep in mind that pelts come in various shapes and sizes depending on the animal. For instance, beaver pelts are typically oval, while coyote pelts have distinct leg and tail sections.

Once you are satisfied with the arrangement, turn the pelts over so that the skin sides are facing up. This is when you can start cutting the pelts with a sharp knife, such as an X-acto knife, box cutter, or razor blade. A rotary cutter or utility knife can also be used to create flat edges, making it easier to line up the edges of the skins. It is important to apply light to medium pressure and hold the pelts steady while cutting. You may also want to measure and draw lines on the back of the pelts to ensure accurate cuts.

When cutting the pelts, always cut with the fur to avoid damaging it. Cutting through the fur will not only make your blades dull faster but will also affect the appearance of your seams. If you need to cut through both the fur and the skin, it is recommended to use a knife instead of scissors to minimise damage to the fur.

After cutting, use binder or quilting clips to hold the pelts together. Small or large binder clips can be used to connect the edges of the fur skins, ensuring that only the skin sides are pressed together. Binder clips are ideal as they do not leave holes in the skins.

In summary, the cutting process involves arranging the pelts, turning them skin-side up, cutting with sharp knives, creating flat edges if needed, and using clips to hold the pelts together. Remember to always cut with the fur to avoid damage and ensure a neat finish.

Joining pelts

Arranging and Cutting the Pelts:

Firstly, you need to arrange the pelts in the desired pattern, keeping in mind their shape and size. For instance, beaver pelts are typically oval, while coyote pelts have leg and tail sections protruding from the body. If you are using small pelts like rabbit fur, you may need a larger number to create a blanket or coat. Ensure you have a spacious work area to lay out the pelts.

Preparing the Pelts for Sewing:

Once you are satisfied with the arrangement, turn the pelts so that the skin sides are facing up. Align the edges of the skins carefully. If needed, use a rotary cutter or utility knife to create straight edges, being cautious not to cut the fur. Hold the pelts together with binder or quilting clips, placing them about 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) apart, ensuring no overlap.

Sewing the Pelts Together:

You can sew the pelts by hand or using a sewing machine, but it is crucial to use the right tools and techniques to avoid damaging the fur. If sewing by hand, use a leather or furrier's needle, and select an appropriate thread such as waxed nylon, linen, or carpet-weight thread. A heavier thread is generally better for sewing pelts. For the sewing machine, install a leather needle and use all-purpose or heavy-duty thread. Set the machine to a wide straight stitch setting to avoid damaging the fur.

Stitching Technique:

The whipstitch is recommended for both hand and machine sewing. Start by inserting the needle through one side of the skin, then pull the thread through to the other side. Bring the needle around the edges and insert it through the skins on the same side. Maintain a distance of about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) to 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) between each stitch. Continue this process until you reach the end of the pelts, rethreading the needle as needed and tying off the thread securely at the beginning and end.

Finishing the coat

Now that you have sewn your pelt "blanket" together, you are ready to finish your coat.

After sewing the pelts together, you will be left with a large pelt "blanket". The next step is to cut out the pieces for your coat. Using a coat pattern, carefully cut out the pieces you need, ensuring that the grain and hair colour and pattern continue to match up. You will need to cut out pieces for the front and back of the coat, as well as the sleeves. It is important to cut with the fur and work your scissors down to the hide itself, as cutting through the fur will make your blades dull and mess up the look of your seams.

Once you have your pieces, it is time to start assembling your coat. Sew the pieces together using the same method you used to sew the pelts together. Remember to use a leather or furrier's needle and a heavy-duty thread, such as waxed nylon, carpet-weight, or linen thread. Start by sewing the shoulder seams, and then attach the sleeves. Next, sew up the sides of the coat, and finish by sewing the sleeves and hem if needed.

To finish the coat, you will need to add a lining. The lining can be made of satin, silk, or another type of cloth. This will help to cover the seams and give the coat a neat finish. You will also need to add any final touches, such as pockets, zippers, buttons, or trim.

Finally, give your coat a good brush to ensure all the fur is laying in the same direction, and your coat is complete!

Frequently asked questions