Creating A Hot Mess T-Shirt: A Fun, Easy Guide

Whether you're looking to make a statement or simply want a comfortable and trendy addition to your wardrobe, a hot mess T-shirt is a fun option. You can find these shirts readily available on Amazon and Etsy, in a variety of styles, colours, and sizes for men, women, and children. However, if you're feeling creative, you can make your own hot mess T-shirt at home by following a tutorial online. So, whether you buy one or make one, these shirts are a great way to express yourself and add a unique touch to your outfit.

Choosing the right fabric

When making a hot mess T-shirt, it is important to choose the right fabric to ensure comfort, durability, and breathability. Here are some factors to consider when selecting the fabric for your T-shirt:

Fabric Type

The most common T-shirt materials are cotton, polyester, linen, and rayon, each offering unique properties and comfort levels. Cotton is widely used due to its breathability, absorbency, and cost-effectiveness. However, it tends to hold moisture, resulting in longer drying times, and it is prone to wrinkling and shrinking. Polyester, on the other hand, is durable, moisture-wicking, and quick-drying, but it may not be as breathable as cotton and can be irritating to some people's skin. Linen is an excellent choice for warm climates as it is lightweight, breathable, and highly durable. Rayon, also known as artificial silk, is soft, breathable, and drapes nicely on the body, but it may not be as durable as other fabrics.

Fabric Blends

To get the best of both worlds, you can opt for blended fabrics that combine two or more materials. Cotton-polyester blends, for example, offer the breathability of cotton and the wrinkle resistance and durability of polyester. These blends are also quick-drying and less prone to shrinking. Rayon is often blended with other materials to create a fabric with enhanced softness and drape. Triblends, which combine cotton, polyester, and rayon, result in an extremely soft and smooth fabric with a great fit.

Fabric Weight and Yarn Count

The weight of the fabric, measured in grams per square meter (GSM), will determine the thickness and heaviness of your T-shirt. Lightweight fabrics (around 100-150 GSM) are ideal for warm climates as they are thin and breathable, while heavyweight fabrics (200+ GSM) are thicker and more durable. Yarn count refers to the thickness of the yarn used in the fabric, with lower numbers indicating coarser yarn and higher numbers indicating finer yarn. A finer yarn will result in a smoother and softer fabric that prints better.

Intended Use

Consider the purpose of the T-shirt. If it is for athletic wear, moisture-wicking fabrics like polyester or polyester blends are a good choice. For casual wear, a comfortable and durable fabric like cotton or cotton-polyester blends may be preferable. If you're looking for something more formal, linen or silk are good options.

Print Compatibility

If you plan to print designs on your hot mess T-shirt, choose a fabric that holds ink well and maintains print quality. Cotton is typically the best option for vibrant and long-lasting prints, but polyester can also work well with certain printing techniques like dye sublimation.

Climate Sustainability

If you want to minimise the environmental impact of your T-shirt, opt for sustainable fabrics made with eco-friendly processes and renewable resources. Organic cotton and recycled polyester are great choices to reduce your carbon footprint.

Cutting the fabric

For this project, you will need 2 to 2 1/2 yards of jersey knit fabric, depending on your size. Fold the fabric in half, and cut two identical large, slightly tapered rectangles. The length of the rectangles will depend on your desired length for the dress. If you want a maxi dress, use a maxi skirt that you own as a guide, or measure from your waist to the floor and add one or two inches. For a shorter dress, cut the fabric to the desired length.

Make the waist wide enough to allow plenty of gathering. For example, if your waist measurement is 25 inches, you will need 50 inches of material to create the gathered waistband.

If you want to add pockets to your dress, attach them before moving on to the next step.

Once your pockets are attached (if desired), it's time to attach the skirt to the t-shirt. With right sides together, pin the t-shirt to the skirt. Sew around the waist with a straight stitch, using a 1-inch or larger seam allowance. It's important to use a large seam allowance here, and you may need to stretch the t-shirt fabric slightly as you pin and sew, to ensure it fits the larger skirt waistband.

Serge or zigzag the raw edge of your waistband when you're done.

Adding pockets

Planning Your Pockets

Before you start sewing, it's essential to plan the design and placement of your pockets. Decide on the shape—a simple rectangle or a rectangle with a small triangle at the bottom. This triangle adds a bit of interest to the design and makes the pocket slightly more complicated to construct. Measure the chest size of the person who will be wearing the T-shirt, as this will influence the size and placement of the pocket.

Creating a Pocket Pattern

Use pattern paper to draft your pocket. Draw a rectangle with the dimensions you've chosen, ensuring that all corners are 90-degree angles. If you're adding a triangle, mark the centre point of the bottom of the rectangle and then create another centre point slightly below it. Draw lines from the rectangle's bottom corners to this new point, forming the triangle.

Adding Seam Allowance

Include a seam allowance by adding 1/2 inch to the top of the pocket for the hem and 3/8 inch to all other sides. You can also add a notch at the 1/2 inch pocket line to make pressing easier. Cut out this template, and you're ready to cut your fabric.

Cutting and Sewing the Pockets

Fold your pocket fabric into fourths, as you'll need four layers to create two pockets. Cut around your template, adding your preferred seam allowance (usually 1/4 inch). Sew the pockets by stitching around the curves, leaving the flat part open. You may want to use both a zig-zag stitch and a straight stitch for added strength.

Placing the Pockets on the T-shirt

Lay your T-shirt flat and determine the placement of the pockets. Pockets on T-shirts are typically placed on the left side of the chest, over the bust apex. You can use a ready-made T-shirt with a pocket as a reference or hold the T-shirt against your body to estimate the placement.

Attaching the Pockets

Pin the pockets in place, and then use a straight stitch to edgestitch the right, bottom, and left sides. Press the pocket with steam to set the stitches and smooth out any wrinkles.

Optional: Topstitching

If you want to add a decorative touch, you can topstitch around the pocket opening. This step is optional but will give your T-shirt a more polished look.

Now you know the basics of adding pockets to a T-shirt! Get creative with pocket shapes, sizes, and placements to make your T-shirt truly unique.

Attaching the skirt to the t-shirt

Now, it's time to attach the skirt to the t-shirt. Place the t-shirt and skirt with their right sides together. Pin the shirt to the skirt, and sew around the waist with a straight stitch, remembering to use a seam allowance of at least 1".

You may need to stretch the t-shirt slightly between pins, as the skirt waistband is likely to be larger than the bottom of the shirt. Serge or zigzag the raw edge of the waistband when you're done.

Your next step is to cut a piece of elastic to the length of your natural waist. We will use this to create the casing that will hold the elastic. Sew another straight seam on the large seam allowance, roughly 1/4"-1/2" below it, or slightly wider than the width of your elastic. Make sure you sew through both the seam allowance and the skirt, as the space between these will create the casing.

Leave a 2" opening at the end of the seam, so you can insert the elastic. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and feed it through the casing. Once the elastic is all the way through, sew the ends together to form a loop. Go back to the opening and sew it closed.

Hemming the dress

Preparing the Dress for Hemming:

• Start by taking the raw edge of the bottom of your dress and folding it under once, creating a fold of about 1/4". Secure this fold with pins to keep it in place.
• Use an iron to press the fold. This step is important as it ensures a much neater and cleaner finish for your hem.
• Once you've pressed the first fold, remove the pins and create a second fold by folding the edge again by another 1/4". This double fold ensures that the raw edge of the fabric is completely enclosed, preventing it from fraying or shedding when the dress is washed. Secure this second fold with pins.

Hemming Techniques:

There are several methods you can use to hem your "hot mess" T-shirt dress, each offering its own advantages:

Method 1: Hand Hemming

Hand hemming involves sewing the hem of the dress by hand. It gives you precise control over the stitching process and allows for customization. While it may take longer than other methods, it's a great option for adding a personalized touch to your garment.

Method 2: Hemming with Hemming Tape

If you're short on time or don't have access to a sewing machine, hemming tape is a quick and convenient alternative. Adhesive hemming tape is designed specifically for securing hems in place without the need for sewing. It's easy to use and can also be a temporary solution, allowing for easy removal and reapplication if needed.

Method 3: Hemming with a Sewing Machine

For efficient and professional-grade results, using a sewing machine is a popular choice. It's much faster than hand sewing and provides consistent and precise stitches. A wide range of stitch options and settings on the machine also allows for customization.

Tips for Hemming:

• Use the right tools: Gather all the necessary tools and supplies before starting, such as a sewing machine, appropriate thread, needles, fabric scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and an iron.
• Prewash and iron your fabric: It's important to prewash and iron your fabric before hemming to prevent surprises like shrinkage or wrinkles.
• Batch your hemming tasks: If you have multiple dresses to hem, work on them together. This saves time on machine setup and thread changes, and you'll also get into a rhythm, making each hem quicker.
• Start with simpler techniques: Build your skills gradually by starting with simpler techniques like using hemming tape or a sewing machine before attempting more advanced methods like hand hemming.
• Accurate measurements: When measuring and marking your hemlines, use tools like fabric markers or chalk for accuracy. Taking the time to ensure your measurements are correct will save you from having to redo any work.

Frequently asked questions