Making a sequin tank top is a fun and creative project for beginner sewers. All you need is some basic sewing skills, a simple pattern, and the right materials. In this tutorial, we will guide you through the process of creating a stylish and comfortable tank top that you can rock during the summer or layer under a button-down shirt in the fall and winter. So, let's get started on crafting your new sparkling wardrobe staple!
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Fabric | Cotton, linen, or linen/cotton blend |
Thread | Matching or coordinating |
Sewing machine | Basic |
Fabric options | Yarn-dyed linen, linen blend, cotton chambray |
Pattern | Drafted by tracing around a tank top that fits well |
Front and back pieces | Same size/shape; front neckline plunges lower than the back |
Darts | Optional; add shape around the bust |
Armholes | Finished with a 1" strip of fabric |
Hem | Very narrow |
What You'll Learn
Create a DIY tank top pattern
To create a DIY tank top pattern, you can either draft the pattern from an existing tank top or create it from scratch using your own measurements. Here's a step-by-step guide:
Drafting the Pattern from an Existing Tank Top:
- Find a basic tank top in your closet that fits you well. Avoid using tank tops with darts, pleats, or other accents.
- Fold the tank top in half along its vertical center, making sure the front neckline remains visible. Place it on top of a large sheet of paper, such as brown drafting paper or blank newsprint.
- Trace around the entire outline of the tank top, then create a second outline 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) outside the first. This extra allowance will be your seam allowance.
- If you're drafting the pattern from a stretchy knit tank top but want to make a woven version, add another 1 inch (2.5 cm) around the perimeter of the seam allowance.
- Carefully fold the back neckline between the straps and repeat the tracing process, adding the seam allowance. This separate piece is needed as the back neckline is usually higher than the front.
- Cut out both pattern pieces and label them as "Back" and "Front." You may also mark the fold line on each pattern piece.
Creating the Pattern from Scratch:
- Take your bust/chest, armhole depth, neck depth, neck width, and desired length measurements.
- Sketch the front outline by drawing a rectangle with a height matching your desired length and a width of half your bust/chest size. You'll draft the front pattern within this rectangle.
- To create the neck opening, measure down from the top left corner to your neck depth and mark this point. Then, measure across from the same corner to a point equal to half your neck width plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) and mark. Draw a curved line between these points to form the neckline.
- To create the armhole, measure 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) along the top from the upper end of the neckline, depending on your desired strap width. Mark this point. Then, measure down from the upper right corner to your armhole depth and mark. Draw a curved line between these points to form the armhole.
- Draw a second outline 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) outside the first to create your seam allowance.
- Repeat the process for the back outline, keeping in mind that the back neckline is usually higher than the front.
- Cut out both the front and back pattern pieces along the outside perimeter of the seam allowances, and label them accordingly. Also, mark the fold line on each piece.
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Make a master pattern copy
Making a master pattern copy is an important step in the process of sewing a tank top. This step ensures that you have a perfect pattern to work with and can avoid the common mistake of not having a master pattern to refer to for future projects. Here is a detailed guide on how to create a master pattern copy:
- Cut the first draft: Use a piece of fabric that you don't mind messing up for this step. You will be cutting out the initial pattern pieces, so it's important to have a test fabric to work with. This way, you can perfect the shape before cutting into your more expensive linen or desired fabric.
- Create a copy of the pattern pieces: Copy the pattern pieces you made onto another piece of inexpensive fabric, such as an old sheet. This step may seem unnecessary, but it's crucial because you want to ensure that you have a perfect pattern to work with. If your first draft doesn't turn out quite right, you can make adjustments to this copy.
- Understand the importance of the master pattern copy: Having a master pattern copy will save you time and effort in the long run. Once you have a perfect shape, you can use it repeatedly for future projects. It's a common mistake to skip this step, but it's worth learning from others' experiences to avoid frustration down the line.
- Fine-tune your master pattern: Make any necessary adjustments to your master pattern copy. This may involve tweaking the shape, adding darts for a better fit, or making other modifications to get the perfect fit.
- Save your master pattern: Once you have a master pattern that you are happy with, be sure to keep it safe and easily accessible for future sewing projects.
Creating a master pattern copy is a crucial step in the process of making a sequin tank top. It ensures that you have a perfect pattern to work with and saves you from the frustration of starting from scratch each time. By following these steps, you'll be well on your way to becoming a master at creating stylish and comfortable tank tops.
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Sewing darts
To sew darts, you will need to transfer the dart markings from the pattern to the fabric, fold and pin the fabric, sew the dart, and then press and clip the dart.
Transfer the Dart Markings
First, line up your pattern paper with the wrong side of your fabric. Trace the dart onto the wrong side of your fabric using chalk. If the wide end of the dart is on the edge of your fabric, snip the fabric at the edges to make it easier to line up the traced lines.
Fold and Pin the Fabric
Pinch the dart so that the edges line up, and the excess fabric is hidden on the right side. Place a few pins along the edges of the pinched fabric, just outside or inside of the dart lines.
Sew the Dart
Set your sewing machine to the straight stitch setting and adjust the stitch length to between 2 and 2.5. Sew along one of the lines you traced onto the fabric, from one end to the other. When you reach the end, sew off the fabric and backstitch a few stitches to secure the stitching. Remove the pins as you stitch and leave a long tail of thread before cutting the thread from the machine.
Press and Clip the Dart
Press the dart as it was sewn, and then press it in the direction stated in the pattern directions. Use a pressing ham or a rolled towel to maintain the shape. If necessary, clip the starting threads and trim any excess fabric to reduce bulk.
Sewing Double-Pointed Darts
To sew a double-pointed dart, start by marking the center of the dart and folding the fabric with the right sides together. Place pins vertically along the fold, with the last pin at the point of the dart. Start stitching at the center of the dart and sew towards the first point, removing the pins as you go. Change to a shorter stitch length as you approach the point of the dart and knot the tail threads without backstitching. Repeat this process for the other side of the dart.
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Put the tank together
Now that you've made your pattern and made any necessary adjustments, it's time to put the tank together. Place the front piece on top of the back piece with right sides together, making sure the straps, armpit area, and side seams are all lined up. Sew a 1/4" seam down both sides and at the top of each strap. Try on the tank to check the fit. You can still make adjustments to the strap length, neckline, and bottom curve at this point. If the fit is way off, don't hesitate to abort the mission and try again with new pattern pieces.
Once you're happy with the fit, it's time to finish off all the raw edges. Cut a long 1" wide strip of fabric. Line it up with the neckline, leaving about 1" of overlap on either side. Sew a narrow seam with the fabric strip and neckline, then press the strip toward the inside of the tank. Fold the raw edge of the strip in towards the tank, and then fold it again to hide the raw edges. Sew all the way around the pressed edge and the folded edge to neatly finish the neckline. If you're not making the button opening, remember to overlap the strip.
If you're adding the button opening, finish the raw edges with the fabric strip just like you did for the neckline. Create a button loop by taking a 3" portion of the strip and folding in the raw edges to make a tiny strip. Sew it in place while attaching the strip to finish the opening. Use the overhang from the neckline strip to cover the top of the strip you just sewed.
To finish the armholes, use the same technique as for the neckline and opening. Leave the ends near the side seam and attach them with right sides together.
Finally, sew a narrow hem along the bottom of the tank top. Fold the bottom under about 1/8" and then another 1/8", sewing as you go. You can press the hem if you want, but it's not necessary. Keep the hem narrow to reduce bulk and ensure a neat lay.
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Finish all the raw edges
Finishing the raw edges of your sequin tank top is an important step to ensure the durability of the garment and to prevent the edges from fraying. Here are four methods to finish the raw edges of your tank top:
Serging or Zig-Zag Stitch:
This is the most common method for finishing raw edges and can be done on a home sewing machine. First, stitch your seam together. Then, run a serging or zig-zag stitch along the edge of the raw fabric. Iron the excess seam allowance towards the back of the garment. This method is ideal for delicate fabrics such as silk and chiffon.
French Seam:
The French seam is a neat and elegant way to finish raw edges, especially for lightweight fabrics. Place the fabric with the wrong sides together and sew a ⅜" (1cm) seam. Trim the seam allowance to ¼" (6mm) on both sides. Press the seam and fold the fabric back on itself, enclosing the raw edges. Sew a second seam along the fold to encase the raw edges. Finally, press the seam allowance towards the back of the garment.
Flat Fell Seam:
The flat fell seam is commonly used for denim and thicker woven fabrics. Stitch the seams together with a ½" seam allowance, making sure the faces of the fabric pieces are touching. Iron the seam allowance open. Trim one side of the seam allowance to ¼". Fold the untrimmed seam allowance inwards and iron to enclose the trimmed edge. Stitch close to the edge of the fold. Finally, iron the seam towards the back of the garment for a clean, professional look.
Bound Seam:
This method is often used for outerwear such as jackets and heavier cardigans. Stitch the seam with the faces of the fabric touching. Align one edge of the binding with the raw edge of the fabric and pin it in place. Stitch along the binding's fold line. Close the binding's fold to enclose the raw edges and iron it down. Sew a straight stitch along the edge of the fold to secure the binding. Finally, iron the seam allowance towards the back of the garment.
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Frequently asked questions
You only need basic sewing skills to make a sequin tank top.
You will need 1.5 yards of cotton, linen, or a linen/cotton blend fabric, matching or coordinating thread, and a sewing machine.
You can create a pattern by tracing around a tank top that you already have that fits well.