Tank tops are a staple in any wardrobe. They're easy to make and a great beginner sewing project. You can make a swing tank top by tracing a tank top you already own or by taking your body measurements. This DIY project is simple and allows for creativity in fabric choice and design.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Fabric | Knit or woven |
Pattern | Existing tank top or freehand |
Paper | Translucent tracing paper, plain medical paper, or Swedish tracing paper |
Weights | Large round washers |
Sewing machine | BERNINA 350PE |
Front bodice | Trace off, mark pattern matching lines and grainlines, draw horizontal line across bust point |
Back bodice | Draw corresponding horizontal line across back bodice, measure down from armscye on front bodice to marked bust line, measure that amount down from back armscye and draw horizontal line |
Swing | Draw vertical lines on lower front bodice, cut along bust line, move top bodice piece to the side, cut upwards along each vertical line, spread pattern by taping to scratch paper |
Hemline | True the hemline by connecting broken pattern lines for a smooth curve |
Armhole depth | Measure from top outside edge of shoulder to centre of armpit |
Neck depth | Measure at collarbone where shoulder and neck seams meet on shirt, measure down at an angle to middle of bust line or chest line |
Neck width | Wrap measuring tape around entire neck, keeping it parallel to the ground |
Seam allowance | 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) |
Hem | Fold bottom hem up 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) and then again by another 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) |
What You'll Learn
Taking body measurements
To make a swing tank top that fits you perfectly, taking accurate body measurements is essential. Here is a comprehensive guide to help you through the process:
Preparation:
Before you begin measuring, there are a few things to keep in mind:
- Decide whether to wear a bra or not during the measurement process, as it can affect your bust measurement. If you plan on wearing a bra with your finished garment, it is advisable to wear one during the measurements.
- Wear form-fitting clothing, such as a tank top and leggings, along with your typical day-to-day undergarments.
- Use a flexible measuring tape instead of a fabric one, as the latter tends to stretch out over time.
- Ensure you stand upright in a relaxed position with your feet together, maintaining good posture.
- Breathe normally during the measurements, and ensure the tape is comfortably fitted to your body without being too tight or digging into your skin.
Upper Body and Torso Measurements:
- Bust: Measure the bust at its fullest part, going all the way around your body to get the total circumference.
- Waist: Identify your natural waist by bending side to side; it is where your body bends. You can also put an elastic band around your waist to mark the correct placement. Measure the waist at this point.
- Hip: Measure the hips at their fullest part, usually around the seat.
- High Hip: Measure around the fullest part of your high hip, which is about 3-4 inches below your waist. This measurement is helpful when fitting slim skirts or pants.
- Front Waist Length: Start measuring from the side base of your neck, at the top shoulder line, and go down towards your waist level, passing over your bust point.
- Back Waist Length: Measure from the base of your neck (the centre, not the side) to the centre of your waistline.
- Arm Length: Measure from the top of your arm (the bone at the shoulder/arm connection) to your wrist (the bone at the side of the wrist), with your elbow bent. Maintaining a bent elbow is crucial for allowing sleeve movement.
Lower Body Measurements:
For pants or a skirt, you'll need to take additional measurements for the lower body:
- Thigh: Measure the thigh circumference just below the crotch at its fullest point, keeping the tape horizontal and level with the floor.
- Ankle: Measure the ankle circumference at its narrowest point, where the ankle flexes.
- Inseam: Measure the inseam along the inner thigh and calf from just below the crotch to the ankle. This measurement is tricky to do on your own, so it's best to have an assistant.
- Outseam: Measure along the outer thigh and calf from the waist to the ankle. Like the inseam, this is easier with help. Stand up straight and look at the measurement only after removing the tape from your body. Don't forget to deduct the distance from the ankle to the floor.
- Skirt Length: Measure the outseam from the waist to the desired skirt length, usually the knee.
- Crotch Depth: Sit on a firm chair and measure from the waist to the top of the chair seat. Using a ruler for this measurement may be easier.
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Tracing an existing tank top
If you want to make a swing tank top, you can use an existing tank top as a guide to create your pattern. This method is a shortcut compared to drafting a pattern from body measurements and will ensure your final product fits you well.
Here's a step-by-step guide to tracing an existing tank top to create a pattern for a swing tank top:
Select an Existing Tank Top:
Choose a basic tank top that fits you well. Avoid using a tank top with darts, pleats, draping folds, or other accents as this will complicate the pattern-making process.
Fold the Tank Top:
Fold the tank top in half along its vertical center, making sure the front neckline remains visible. Place the folded tank top on a large piece of paper, such as brown drafting paper or blank newsprint.
Add a Seam Allowance:
Trace around the outline of the tank top, and then create a second outline 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) outside the first. This extra allowance will be your seam allowance. If you're drafting a pattern for a woven fabric but using a knit tank top as your guide, add an additional 1 inch (2.5 cm) to the seam allowance.
Tuck and Repeat:
Move the folded tank top to another section of the paper. Carefully fold the back neckline between the straps, and then trace around the outline, adding the seam allowance. This step is necessary because the back neckline is usually higher than the front.
Cut Out the Pattern Pieces:
Carefully cut out both pattern pieces, including the seam allowances. Label the pieces "Back" and "Front" accordingly. You may also want to mark the fold line on each pattern piece.
Prepare to Adjust for Swing:
At this point, you have a basic tank top pattern. To create a swing tank top, you will need to adjust the pattern to add fullness and flare to the hem. This can be done by slashing and spreading the pattern pieces.
Trace Off Bodice Pieces:
Trace the back and front bodice pieces of your tank top pattern onto tracing paper. Mark all pattern matching lines and grain lines.
Draw Horizontal Lines:
Draw a horizontal line across the bust point on your front bodice piece. If your pattern doesn't have a marking for the bust, hold it up to your body and mark where it hits the fullest part of your bust. Draw a corresponding horizontal line on your back bodice piece by measuring down from the armscye on the front bodice to the bust line, and then transferring that measurement to the back bodice.
Draw Vertical Lines:
On the lower front bodice piece, draw a series of parallel vertical lines from the bust line to the hem. Space these lines an equal distance apart. The number of lines you draw will depend on how much swing you want in your final tank top. For more swing, draw more lines; for less swing, draw fewer lines.
Cut and Spread:
Cut along the bust line on your front bodice piece, separating the top from the bottom. Isolate the bottom piece and cut upwards along each vertical line, leaving a small hinge of paper at the end of each cut. Spread each vertical line by a set amount (e.g., 1 inch) and tape the paper to a larger piece of paper below.
True the Hemline:
Connect the broken pattern lines to create a smooth curve for your new hemline. You can do this freehand or use a French curve ruler.
Reattach the Bodice Pieces:
Reattach the top and bottom bodice pieces, allowing the bottom piece to curve at the top. Keep the center front lines straight when re-attaching the pieces, and don't worry about the additional length below the bust line, as this adds to the swing design.
True the Side Seam:
Join the broken lines along the side seam of your pattern piece, creating a gentle curve.
Repeat for the Back:
Repeat steps 3-10 for the back bodice piece to add the same amount of swing to the back of your tank top.
Adjust the Hem:
Optionally, you can adjust the hem sweep to suit your preferences. Play around with different looks, such as a high-low hemline or an asymmetrical cut.
Now you have a complete pattern for a swing tank top! You can use this pattern to cut your fabric and sew your new swing tank top according to the standard steps for constructing a tank top.
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Cutting out the pattern pieces
To make a swing tank top, you'll need to cut out the pattern pieces for the front and back of the top. You can do this by either drafting a pattern from scratch or by using an existing tank top as a guide.
If you're drafting the pattern from scratch, you'll need to take measurements of your bust/chest, armhole depth, neck depth, and neck width. You'll also need to decide how long you want the top to be. Once you have these measurements, you can sketch the front and back outlines of the top on drafting paper, adding a seam allowance of 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) around the perimeter.
If you're using an existing tank top as a guide, fold the tank top in half vertically and place it on top of drafting paper. Trace around the outline of the tank top, adding a seam allowance of 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) around the perimeter. Do this for both the front and back of the tank top, making sure to fold the neckline between the straps when tracing the back piece.
Once you have your pattern pieces sketched out, carefully cut them out using scissors. Label the pieces "Front" and "Back" accordingly, and mark the fold line on each piece.
Now that you have your pattern pieces cut out, you're ready to move on to the next step of making your swing tank top!
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Sewing the tank top
Now that you've drafted the pattern for your swing tank top, it's time to start sewing. This process will be easier if you work from a woven tank top, but you can also use a stretchy knit. Here's a step-by-step guide to sewing your own swing tank top:
Prepare the Fabric
- Fold your fabric in half.
- Place both the front and back pattern pieces onto the same side of the fabric, lining up the sides marked "fold" with the actual fold of your fabric.
- Pin the pattern pieces in place, keeping them as flat as possible.
- Use a fabric pencil or chalk to trace the outline of both pattern pieces, then cut them out using pinking shears, a rotary cutter, or standard scissors.
Sew the Pieces Together
- With right sides together, place the front piece on top of the back piece, ensuring the straps, armholes, and side seams are all lined up.
- Sew a 1/4" seam down both sides and at the top of each strap. You can use a zigzag stitch for more stretch and to minimise fraying.
- Try on the tank top to check the fit. Adjust the strap length, neckline, or bottom curve if needed.
Finish the Raw Edges
- Hem the bottom, neckline, and armholes by folding and pressing the raw edges. For the bottom and armholes, fold the edge by 1/4" and then again by another 1/4" so that the raw edge is hidden. Pin and press the folds in place.
- For the neckline, cut a long strip of fabric about 1" wide. Sew this strip to the neckline with right sides together, then press it towards the inside of the tank. Fold and press the raw edge of the strip towards the inside, and sew all the way around to neatly finish the neckline.
- If you've added an opening at the back, finish the raw edges with another 1" strip of fabric. You can also create a button loop by folding a small portion of the strip and sewing it in place.
- Finish the armholes in the same way as the neckline, attaching the fabric strip in a circular fashion.
Your swing tank top is now complete! This simple sewing project allows for lots of creativity in fabric choice and design, so feel free to experiment and add your own unique touches.
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Hemming the raw edges
Preparation:
Before you begin hemming, there are a few things you should do to prepare your fabric and work area:
- Cut your fabric: Using a chalk pen or erasable pen, trace the armhole of one side of your shirt. You can eyeball where you want to cut, especially if you're using an existing tank top as a template. Cut out the armhole and then fold your shirt in half, lining up the shoulder and side seams. Use the previous cut as a guide to cut out the other armhole.
- Choose your hemming method: There are several ways to hem your tank top, including a rolled hem, a folded hem, or using hem tape. Decide on the method you want to use before you start sewing.
- Gather your tools: Make sure you have all the necessary tools and materials, such as a sewing machine, thread, scissors, and measuring tools.
Rolled Hem Method:
If you want a neat and simple finish, the rolled hem method is a great choice:
- Cut the sleeves: If you're going for a deeper cut, feel free to cut the sleeves along the armhole, but for a more reinforced armhole, cut the sleeves about 1/4" outside the sleeve seam. Try on the shirt before cutting to ensure you're happy with the fit.
- Fold and press: Once the sleeves are cut, fold the fabric edge over the sleeve seam by 1/4" and then fold it over again. Use an iron to press the folds and create a crisp edge.
- Sew the hem: Thread your sewing machine with a matching colour thread. Starting at the underarm seam, sew all the way around the armhole using a straight stitch. Sew just inside the outer fold to secure the hem in place. Repeat this process for the other armhole.
Folded Hem Method:
For a more traditional hem, you can create a folded hem by following these steps:
- Press and fold: Take your fabric and press the edge up onto itself by about 1-2". If you want a narrower hem, you can press it up by just 1/4" or adjust the width to your preference.
- Fold again: Take the raw edge that you folded up and fold it under by about 1/2", creating a neat fold. Press this fold to create a crisp edge.
- Pin and sew: Pin the hem in place and then sew it with a straight stitch, about 1/8" - 1/4" away from the fold. This will secure your hem and ensure it lies flat.
Using Hem Tape or Twill Tape:
If you prefer a less bulky hem, you can use hem tape or twill tape to finish the edges:
- Press and pin: Press the edge of your fabric up by about 1". Then unfold it and pin a piece of twill or hem tape to the edge, overlapping by about half the width of the tape.
- Sew the tape: Sew the tape down to the fabric along the overlapping edge.
- Fold and sew again: Fold the hem up again and pin it in place. Sew the top edge of the twill tape, enclosing the raw edge of the fabric. This will create a clean finish and secure your hem in place.
Tips and Tricks:
- Practice on scrap fabric: Before you start hemming your tank top, it's a good idea to practice on some scrap fabric to perfect your technique.
- Measure twice, cut once: Always double-check your measurements before cutting your fabric to avoid any mistakes.
- Press your folds: Using an iron to press your folds will give you crisp, professional-looking hems.
- Choose the right thread: When sewing your hems, use a matching colour thread to blend in with your fabric.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need a sewing machine, fabric (cotton or linen are good options), matching thread, and basic sewing supplies like scissors, pins, and paper for drafting a pattern.
You can draft your own pattern by tracing an existing tank top that fits you well, or you can create one from scratch using your body measurements. For a swing tank top, you will need to add extra width at the hem to create the swing effect, focusing the fullness at the hem rather than throughout the top.
First, cut out your pattern pieces, including seam allowances. Then, fold your fabric in half and place the pattern pieces on the fabric, pinning them in place. Trace the pattern onto the fabric and cut out the pieces. Sew the front and back pieces together at the shoulders and sides, and finish the raw edges with hems.
You can customise your swing tank top by adding darts for a better fit, creating a plunging back neckline, or adding details like ruffles, pockets, or buttons. Play around with different fabrics and styles to create a unique top that suits your taste and personality.