Fabric To Fashion: Crafting A T-Shirt

Making a T-shirt is a great beginner-friendly sewing project. You can make a T-shirt from fabric by following these steps:

1. Choose your fabric

Most T-shirts are made with knit fabric, but you can also use woven fabric. If you're a beginner, it's best to choose a knit fabric with minimal stretch.

2. Create a pattern

You can create your own pattern by tracing an existing T-shirt that fits you well. Fold the T-shirt in half vertically and lay it on a large sheet of paper. Pin along the back outline, paying attention to the back neckline and sleeve seams. Then, trace the outline with a pencil. Repeat this process for the front outline. For the sleeves, unfold the shirt and flatten one sleeve on a piece of paper. Pin and trace the outline.

3. Cut out the pattern pieces

Add seam allowances to each piece by drawing another outline around the perimeter. Cut out the pattern pieces and verify that they match each other.

4. Prepare the fabric

Wash and dry your chosen fabric. Then, cut the pattern pieces out of the fabric by folding the material in half and placing the pattern pieces on top.

5. Sew the shirt

Pin the front and back body pieces together, with the right sides facing inward. Sew the shoulders, and then pin and sew the ribbing to the neckline. Next, pin and sew the sleeves to the armholes. Finally, sew down both sides of the shirt and add hems to the bottom and sleeves.

Choosing the right fabric

Fabric Type

The most common T-shirt fabrics include cotton, polyester, linen, twill, cotton/polyester blends, flannel, and corduroy. Each fabric has unique properties, offering varying levels of comfort, durability, breathability, and print compatibility.

Fabric Weight

The weight of the fabric, measured in GSM (grams per square meter), impacts the T-shirt's suitability for different weather conditions and activities. Lightweight fabrics (around 100-150 GSM) are ideal for hot climates as they are thinner and more breathable. Heavyweight fabrics (200+ GSM) are thicker and more durable, perfect for cooler weather. Mid-weight fabrics (150-200 GSM) offer a balance of breathability and durability, making them versatile for various conditions.

Fit

The fit of a T-shirt is influenced by the fabric's stretch and construction. A well-fitted T-shirt should complement your body shape without being too tight or loose. Look for fabrics with a blend of spandex or elastane, which offer better flexibility and fit.

Longevity

Consider the durability and lifespan of the fabric. High-quality fabrics, such as combed cotton or blends, maintain their shape, colour, and integrity over time. These fabrics offer better value for money as they tend to last longer.

Cost

Fabric costs vary depending on the type, quality, and brand. Compare prices, consider your budget, and look for value-for-money options. Higher-quality fabrics like organic cotton tend to be more expensive, while blends like cotton-polyester can be more cost-effective.

Climate Sustainability

Choose sustainable fabrics with eco-friendly production processes and renewable resources to reduce environmental harm. Look for certifications like GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) or OEKO-TEX, and opt for organic cotton, recycled polyester, or bamboo.

Intended Use

Consider the intended use of the T-shirt. For athletic wear, select moisture-wicking and stretchable fabrics. For casual wear, prioritise comfort and style. For workwear, choose more durable fabrics.

Print Compatibility

If you plan to print designs on your T-shirt, choose fabrics with a smooth surface, like cotton or polyester blends. These fabrics absorb ink better and maintain print quality over time.

Cutting the fabric

Preparation

Before you start cutting, prepare your fabric by washing, drying, and ironing it. This process helps pre-shrink the fabric and set the dye, ensuring more accurate sizing for your T-shirt. It is also important to work on a hard, flat surface, like a table, to achieve smooth and accurate cuts.

Laying Out the Fabric

Fold your fabric in half, ensuring the selvages (the woven edges) are aligned. Keep the fabric smooth and flat, with the right sides (the front of the fabric) facing each other. Place your pattern pieces according to the cutting instructions, lining up the "cut on the fold" marks with the fold of your fabric.

Pinning and Cutting

Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric before cutting. Start by pinning the corners, then continue along the edges. You can also use chalk to draw an outline on the fabric if you prefer. When cutting, hold the fabric down with one hand and cut with the other, using long strokes and keeping your scissors at a 90-degree angle to the surface.

Cutting Tips

Take your time when cutting and follow the outer edge of your pattern, leaving some space to avoid cutting into the seam allowance lines. Cut both the front and back pieces, as well as the sleeves, from your chosen fabric. For a raglan T-shirt, cut the sleeves from a separate fabric, typically a ribbed knit fabric.

Sewing the shoulders

• Place the front and back pieces of your T-shirt together, ensuring the right sides are facing each other. This means that the sides of the fabric that you want to be seen when wearing the shirt should be facing inward, touching each other.
• Pin the two pieces together at the shoulders. Use straight pins to hold the pieces in place along the shoulder seams. Aim to place a pin about every inch along the shoulder seams.
• Using a straight stitch on your sewing machine, sew along the pinned shoulder edges. Sew along both shoulder seams, joining the front and back pieces of the shirt together. Remember to remove the pins as you sew.
• Once you've sewn the shoulders, it's a good idea to iron out the seams. This will give your T-shirt a neat and professional look.

At this point, the basic structure of your T-shirt is starting to take shape. The next steps will involve attaching the sleeves and side seams.

Adding the sleeves

Now that you have cut out the fabric for the sleeves, it's time to attach them to the body of the T-shirt. Here is a step-by-step guide:

Step 1: Pin the Sleeves to the Body

Lay the T-shirt flat and pin the middle of the sleeve curve to the middle of the armhole. Ensure that the right sides of the fabric are together. Then, pin the sleeve along each side of the armhole. Repeat this process with the other sleeve.

Step 2: Sew the Sleeves

Using a straight stitch on your sewing machine, sew the pinned sleeve onto the armhole, removing the pins as you go. Repeat this process for the other sleeve.

Step 3: Iron the Seams

Once you have attached both sleeves to your shirt, iron the seams to ensure they are smooth and flat.

Step 4: Check the Fit (Optional)

At this point, you may want to try on the T-shirt to check the fit of the sleeves. If they are too tight, you may need to unpick the seams, cut the sleeve larger, and sew it back together. If they are too loose, you can adjust the fit by sewing a new seam closer to the edge of the sleeve.

Step 5: Finish the Seams (Optional)

If you want to give your T-shirt a more professional finish, you can finish the seams of the sleeves to prevent fraying. To do this, trim the seam allowance close to the stitching line, and then use a zig-zag stitch or an overlocker to finish the edge.

Sewing the sides

Now, you need to sew down both sides of the shirt. First, fold the T-shirt with the right sides facing each other. Sew a straight stitch down the entire right side of the shirt, working from the tip of the underarm seam straight down to the bottom opening. Repeat on the left side of the shirt when finished.

Pin down the sleeves and sides before stitching them together; otherwise, the fabric may shift as you work.

Follow the seam allowance you marked on your original pattern. For this tutorial, the seam allowance is 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).

Frequently asked questions