Sewing T-Shirts: A Step-By-Step Guide To Stitching Success

Sewing a T-shirt can be a fun and easy project, even for beginners. While the process may seem daunting at first, with the right tools and tricks, you can copy a well-fitting T-shirt and recreate it using different fabrics and colours. Here's a simple guide to help you get started on making your very own T-shirt.

Choosing the right fabric

When it comes to choosing the right fabric for your T-shirt, there are a few things to consider. Firstly, most T-shirts are made with knit fabric, so this is a good option to keep in mind. If you're a beginner, you may want to choose a knit fabric with a low stretch to make the sewing process easier. However, if you want to duplicate the fit of an existing shirt, using a similar material in terms of construction and weight is a good idea.

Another popular fabric option for T-shirts is jersey cotton, which is stretchy, comfortable, and relatively easy to sew with. If you go with this option, it's a good idea to familiarise yourself with sewing stretch jersey fabric before starting your project.

When selecting your fabric, pay attention to the selvage and lay out your pattern pieces accordingly. Knit fabric is usually wider than woven fabric, so you can typically get the front and back pieces from the same width of fabric. Just be sure not to let the fabric hang over the edge of your work surface, as this can stretch out the fabric.

Once you've chosen your fabric, be sure to wash and dry it before cutting out your pattern pieces. This will help pre-shrink the fabric and set the dye, resulting in more accurately sized pieces.

Creating a pattern

Find a well-fitting shirt

The easiest way to draft your own shirt pattern is to copy the shape of an existing shirt that fits you well. This can be a basic T-shirt or any other style of shirt.

Fold the shirt and lay it on paper

Fold the shirt vertically, keeping the front sides out. Lay the halved shirt over a large sheet of paper placed on thick cardboard. The cardboard provides a stiff surface to work on and makes it easier to pin the paper.

Pin along the back outline

Pin along the perimeter of the shirt, especially the back neckline seam beneath the collar and the sleeve seam. Insert the pins straight down through the seams and into the paper, spacing them no more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart.

Trace the outline

Use a pencil to lightly trace the entire outline of the shirt, including the shoulder, sides, and bottom. After tracing these elements, lift the shirt and find the holes marking the sleeve and neckline seams. Trace along these holes to complete the outline for the back pattern piece.

Pin and trace the front outline

Move the folded shirt to a fresh piece of paper and pin along the front outline. Follow the same steps as the back, paying close attention to the front neckline, which is usually deeper than the back. Place the pins beneath the front portion of the neckline, keeping them 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart and straight down.

Trace the front outline

Lightly trace the shoulder, sides, and bottom of the shirt while it remains pinned. Remove the shirt and trace along the pin marks of the neckline and sleeve to complete the front outline.

Pin and trace the sleeve

Unfold the shirt and flatten one sleeve. Pin the sleeve to clean paper and trace around the outline, inserting pins straight through the connecting seam. Trace the top, bottom, and outer edge of the sleeve, then remove the shirt and trace along the pin-marked seam to complete the sleeve pattern.

Add seam allowances

Use a flexible ruler and pencil to draw another outline around the perimeter of each piece, creating a secondary outline that will serve as the seam allowance. A seam allowance of 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) should give you ample room to work with.

Mark and cut the pieces

Label each piece (back body, front body, and sleeve) and mark the fold lines. Cut around each pattern piece outline carefully. Verify that the pattern pieces match by placing the open sides of the front and back pieces together; the shoulders and armholes should align. When placing the sleeve over the armhole of either main body piece, the actual measurement (not the seam allowance) should also match up.

Cutting out the fabric

Now that you've created your pattern, it's time to cut out your T-shirt pieces. This is just as important as sewing them together, so take your time and cut neatly and accurately.

First, find a large, flat surface, like a big table. Lay your fabric over it, ensuring it's free of wrinkles, stretched bits, or other distortions. Place one of your paper pattern pieces on top, aligning it so that the stretch of the jersey fabric is across the width of the T-Shirt. For example, if your fabric has stripes, the stretch should go in the same direction as the stripes.

Instead of pinning the pattern in place, use heavy books or sewing weights to hold it in place. This is because pinning can introduce distortions or stretches in the fabric. Carefully draw around the edge of the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk, being careful not to tug or pull on the fabric as you draw.

Finally, cut out the shape with sharp scissors (tailor's shears are best). Once you've cut them all out, you should have a front piece, back piece, and two arms.

Tips for Cutting Out the Fabric

• Cut your fabric with sharp scissors or shears to ensure clean edges and accurate cuts. Dull blades can lead to uneven cuts and fabric fraying.
• Ensure your fabric is laid out flat and smooth before placing your pattern on top. Any wrinkles or folds can affect the accuracy of your cuts.
• When cutting, follow the lines of your pattern closely, but leave some space around the edges, typically called the seam allowance. This extra fabric is necessary for sewing the pieces together.
• If your fabric has a pattern or stripes, pay attention to the layout of your pattern pieces. You may want to ensure the patterns are aligned or that stripes are going in the same direction as the stretch of the fabric.
• Take your time and cut carefully. Rushing can lead to mistakes, and it's important to cut accurately, especially if you plan to make adjustments to your pattern in the future.

Sewing the pieces together

Now that you have cut out your T-shirt pattern pieces, it's time to sew them together! Here is a step-by-step guide:

• Place your two T-shirt body pieces back-to-back, so the wrong sides are facing out. Align them neatly, focusing on the neckline and shoulders. Pin them in place along the shoulders, aiming for a pin every inch.
• Sew along the pinned shoulder edges to join the two pattern pieces together. Remove the pins as you go. Remember not to sew the neckline closed; just sew the two shoulders, leaving a hole in the middle for the neck.
• Open out the two pieces so they are only joined at the shoulders. Take an arm pattern piece and find the centre point of the curved side. Line up this centre point with one of the shoulders and pin it in place, with the right sides facing in. This pin will be at the point that will lie on the very edge of your shoulder.
• Pin the rest of the arm to the armhole, starting at the pin you just added. Work outwards along the curved edge of the arm and pin it to the body piece. Be very careful, as it's tricky to pin curved edges together! Don't be afraid to use lots of pins.
• Carefully sew the pinned arm piece to the body pieces along the curve you have just pinned. Remove the pins as you go.
• Repeat this process for the other arm piece.
• Fold the T-shirt back together along the shoulder seam (right sides facing in), so the front and back line up neatly again. Pin the sides together, starting at the underarm and working your way down to the bottom edge. Sew in place, removing the pins as you go.

Adding the neckline

Now that you have the basic T-shirt completed, it's time to add the neckline. This is a tricky part, so be patient and take your time.

• Cut a strip of fabric that will be your neck binding. It should be about 4cm wide and approximately 45cm long. Make sure you cut it so that it will stretch lengthwise, not width-wise.
• Press the fabric strip flat with a medium-hot iron. Carefully and neatly, fold the strip in half along the long edge and press this fold in place.
• Find the midpoint of the neck binding strip. Turn your T-shirt the right way round. Line up the midpoint of the neck binding with the midpoint of the neck hole at the front of the T-shirt. Align the raw edges of the binding strip with the raw edge of the neck hole. Pin them together.
• Make a mark on the binding strip 10cm to one side of the pinned midpoint. Pin this marked point to the shoulder seam of the neck hole. The length of fabric between the pins should now be shorter for the neck binding than for the neck hole.
• You now have the neckline pinned in two places. Carefully add more pins between these two points, gently stretching the neck binding as you pin so that it lines up against the neck hole without any gaps. Repeat this for the other quarter of the neckline that sits on the front of the T-shirt.
• Repeat this process for the back of the T-shirt, so that the entire neckline is pinned in place.
• Set your sewing machine to a zig-zag stitch. Sew along the neck binding, removing the pins as you go. Gently stretch the neckline as you sew so that the binding is at a higher tension than the neck hole.
• When you get to the back of the neckline, where the two ends meet, stop sewing and remove any remaining pins. Unfold the two ends of the neckline and lay them flat against each other, right sides together. Pin them together and sew with a straight stitch. Trim any excess fabric, then fold the neckline in half again (along the line that you pressed earlier). Sew this to the T-shirt, using a zig-zag stitch.

Adding the final touches

Congratulations, your T-shirt is almost finished! Here are the last few steps:

• Put the T-shirt on and let the fabric drop naturally, ensuring it's not bunched up anywhere. Use tailor's chalk to mark the desired length for the waist and sleeves.
• Take the T-shirt off and add an extra 3-4cm as a seam allowance to each of the marks you made. Then, cut off the excess fabric.
• Fold the raw edge over by approximately 1-2cm, and then fold it over again so that the raw edge is hidden. You can fold it inwards or outwards, depending on the finish you prefer.
• Sew over the folded edge, starting at the side of the T-shirt and working your way around the waist until you loop back on yourself. If your T-shirt has a loose fit, you can use a straight stitch for this step. If it's a tighter fit, use a zig-zag stitch to allow for stretch. Do not stretch the fabric as you sew.
• Repeat the above process for each of the sleeves.

Adding the finishing touches

Now that you've sewn your T-shirt, it's time to add the final touches. These last steps are nice and easy. Before you know it, your new handmade T-shirt will be ready to wear!

Try on the T-shirt and let the fabric drop naturally, ensuring it's not bunched up anywhere. Use tailor's chalk to make a small mark on the waist section, at the length you would like to cut it. Do the same for each of the arms. Remember to add an extra 3-4 cm as a seam allowance to each of the three marks you make. Then, cut off the excess fabric.

Starting at the waist section, fold the raw edge (that you've just cut) over by approximately 1-2 cm. Then fold it over another 1-2 cm, so the raw edge is hidden. You can fold it either inwards or outwards, depending on the finish you would like your T-shirt to have.

Then, starting at the side of the T-shirt, sew over the folded edge. Keep sewing all the way around the waist, until you loop back on yourself. If your T-shirt has a slightly loose fit (i.e. you do not need to stretch the arms or body to get it on), then you can use a straight stitch for this step. However, if your T-shirt is a tighter fit, make sure you use a zig-zag stitch. The most important thing with this step is to ensure you do not stretch the fabric as you sew it! Gently guide the fabric through the machine, without stretching it.

Finally, repeat the exact same process for each of the arms.

Your T-shirt is now complete! If it doesn’t quite fit perfectly, or if it’s a bit wonky in places, don’t worry. It's normal for your first attempts to be less than perfect. Try again, and you’ll soon get the hang of it.

Frequently asked questions