Creating A T-Shirt Sewing Pattern: A Step-By-Step Guide

Sewing a T-shirt can be a fun and rewarding project, and it's easier than you might think! In this guide, we'll walk you through the steps to create your own T-shirt sewing pattern and choose the right materials for a professional finish. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced sewer, making your own T-shirt pattern allows you to customise the fit, style, and fabric to your exact preferences. So, let's get started on crafting a T-shirt that's uniquely you!

Choosing the right fabric

• Stretch: Knit fabrics typically have a two-way or four-way stretch. Two-way stretch fabrics stretch only horizontally, while four-way stretch fabrics stretch both horizontally and vertically. Four-way stretch fabrics may hang a bit longer than two-way stretch fabrics, but both work well for T-shirts.
• Stretch percentage: This refers to the amount of stretch in the fabric. Fabrics with a higher stretch percentage will result in a looser-fitting garment. Each pattern will recommend a stretch percentage to help you choose the appropriate fabric.
• Weight: This refers to the thickness of the fabric. Lighter-weight fabrics tend to have a more fluid drape, while heavier fabrics have a crisper drape with larger folds that hang farther apart.
• Drape: Drape refers to the way the fabric hangs. It is often influenced by the weight of the fabric.
• Breathability: Consider the breathability of the fabric, especially if you plan to wear the T-shirt in warm weather. Fabrics like cotton and rayon are known for their breathability.
• Comfort: Soft and comfortable fabrics are ideal for T-shirts. Polyester-spandex blends, cotton blends, and rayon are popular choices for their softness and comfort.
• Durability: Some fabrics may be more durable and better able to withstand wear and tear. Polyester, for example, is known for its resilience, retaining its shape, colour, and size over time.
• Moisture-wicking properties: If you plan to use the T-shirt for activewear, consider fabrics with moisture-wicking properties, such as rayon or polyester. These fabrics can help keep you cool and comfortable during workouts.
• Eco-friendliness: If sustainability is important to you, consider eco-friendly fabric options like bamboo. Bamboo fabric has several pros, including its anti-bacterial and moisture-wicking abilities, and it helps keep the body temperature down, making it perfect for working out.

Popular fabric choices for T-shirts include cotton, cotton blends (such as poly-cotton or triblend), rayon, polyester, and spandex. Each fabric has unique properties that can influence the drape, stretch, comfort, and durability of the final garment. Consider your personal preferences and the intended use of the T-shirt when selecting the right fabric for your sewing project.

Creating the pattern

To create a T-shirt pattern, you will need a well-fitting T-shirt, a large piece of plain paper, a pencil, a pair of scissors, and tailor's chalk or an air erasable marker. You will also need a large, flat surface to work on, such as a big table.

Begin by turning your T-shirt inside out and laying it flat on the paper. Smooth out any wrinkles, ensuring that you do not stretch or deform the shape of the T-shirt. Using a pencil, carefully trace the outline of the T-shirt, following the sides, shoulders, back neckline, and bottom. Instead of drawing the arms, fold them up and trace along the line of stitching that connects the arm to the body. Cut out the body piece that you have drawn—this will be the back pattern piece for your T-shirt.

Next, use this pattern piece to cut out an identical piece, but this time, cut the neckline a little lower, using your existing T-shirt as a guide. This will be the front pattern piece.

Now, lay your T-shirt flat on the paper again and draw around one of the sleeves. Go around all three edges of the flat sleeve and the curved seam line (you may need to fold the sleeve out of the way to draw this seam line). To complete the sleeve pattern, draw a mirror image of the sleeve shape to extend it outwards. Cut out the full sleeve pattern piece.

At this point, you should have four pattern pieces in total: the sleeves, a front body piece, a back body piece, and a neckband piece.

Cutting out the pattern pieces

To cut out your T-shirt pattern pieces, start by laying your fabric on a large, flat surface, ensuring it is free of wrinkles, stretched bits, or other distortions. Place one of your paper pattern pieces on top, aligning it so that the stretch of the fabric runs across the width of the T-shirt. For accurate cutting, it is recommended to use heavy books or sewing weights to hold the pattern in place, instead of pinning it, as pinning can introduce distortions or stretches in the fabric.

Carefully draw around the edge of the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk, being careful not to tug or pull on the fabric. Cut out the shapes with sharp scissors (tailor's shears are best). Once you've cut out all the pieces, you should have a front piece, a back piece, and two sleeves.

Cutting the fabric

Now that you have your pattern pieces, it's time to cut the fabric for your T-shirt. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:

• Prepare your fabric: Lay your fabric on a large, flat surface, such as a table. Ensure the fabric is free of any wrinkles, stretched bits, or other distortions.
• Place the pattern pieces: Put one of your paper pattern pieces on top of the fabric, aligning it so that the stretch of the jersey fabric is across the width of the T-shirt. For example, if your fabric has stripes, the stretch should go in the same direction.
• Secure the pattern: Instead of pinning the pattern in place, use heavy books or sewing weights to hold it down. Pinning can introduce distortions or stretches in the fabric.
• Trace the pattern: Carefully draw around the edge of the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk. Try not to tug or pull on the fabric as you draw.
• Cut out the pieces: Use sharp scissors or tailor's shears to cut out the shape. Cut out all the pieces, including the front piece, back piece, and two sleeves.
• Mark notches and grainlines: Before removing the pattern pieces, use tailor's chalk to mark any notches or grainlines indicated on the pattern. Notches help you match up the correct pieces when sewing, while grainlines ensure the fabric is properly aligned.
• Double-check the stretch: Before cutting, double-check that the fabric's stretch goes from side to side, as this is crucial for the T-shirt's comfort and fit.
• Cut with precision: Take your time and cut neatly along the drawn lines. Cutting accurately will make it easier to sew the pieces together and achieve a professional-looking finish.
• Cut additional pieces: If your T-shirt design includes features like a pocket or colour-blocking, don't forget to cut out the necessary pieces.
• Prepare interfacing (optional): If your T-shirt pattern calls for interfacing, cut out the appropriate pieces according to the manufacturer's instructions. Interfacing adds structure and stability to the fabric, especially around areas like the neckline.

Remember to handle your fabric with care during the cutting process. Once you're done cutting, you'll be ready to start sewing your T-shirt pieces together!

Sewing the pieces together

Now that you have your pattern pieces cut out, it's time to sew them together. Here's a step-by-step guide:

• Place your two T-shirt body pieces back-to-back, so the wrong sides are facing out. Align them as neatly as possible, focusing on the neckline and shoulders. Pin them in place along the shoulders, aiming for a pin every inch.
• Sew along the pinned shoulder edges to join the two pattern pieces together. Remove the pins as you go, and be sure not to sew the neckline closed! Leave a hole in the middle for the neck.
• Open out the two pieces so they are only joined at the shoulders. Take one arm pattern piece and find the centre point of the curved side. Line up this centre point with one of the shoulders and pin it in place, with the right sides facing in. This pin will be at the very edge of your shoulder.
• Pin the rest of the arm to the armhole, starting at the pin you just added. Work outwards along the curved edge of the arm and pin it to the body piece. Half of the arm piece will join the front body piece, and the other half will join the back. Be careful when pinning curved edges! Don't be afraid to use lots of pins.
• Carefully sew the pinned arm piece to the body pieces along the curve you have just pinned. Remove the pins as you go.
• Repeat this process for the other arm piece.
• Fold the T-shirt back together along the shoulder seam (right sides facing in), so the front and back line up neatly. Pin the sides together, starting at the underarm and working your way down to the bottom edge. Sew in place, removing the pins as you go.

Your T-shirt now has the basic structure! The next step is to add the neckline.

Adding the finishing touches

Now that your T-shirt is almost ready, it's time to add the finishing touches. Here are some steps to follow:

Trying on the T-shirt

Put on the T-shirt and let the fabric fall naturally to ensure there are no bunched-up areas. Use tailor's chalk to mark the desired length for the waist and sleeves. This will help you achieve the perfect fit.

Adding Seam Allowance

After taking off the T-shirt, identify the three marks you made. At each point, add an extra 3-4 cm as a seam allowance. This extra fabric will be used for creating a neat finish.

Folding and Sewing the Edges

Start by folding the raw edge you just cut by approximately 1-2 cm. Then, fold it over another 1-2 cm, ensuring the raw edge is completely hidden. You can choose to fold it inwards or outwards, depending on the desired finish for your T-shirt. Sew over the folded edge, starting from the side of the T-shirt. Continue sewing all the way around the waist until you reach the starting point.

Choosing the Right Stitch

If your T-shirt has a slightly loose fit and you don't need to stretch the fabric to put it on, you can use a straight stitch for sewing the edges. However, if your T-shirt is more fitted, opt for a zig-zag stitch to allow for stretch. Remember, the most important thing is to avoid stretching the fabric while sewing.

Repeating the Process for the Sleeves

Finally, repeat the exact same process for each of the sleeves. Fold, sew, and choose the appropriate stitch type based on the fit of your T-shirt.

Your T-shirt is now complete and ready to be worn! Don't worry if it didn't turn out perfectly on your first attempt. It takes practice to master the art of sewing, and each attempt will bring you closer to perfection.

Frequently asked questions