There are many ways to transform an old T-shirt into a trendy tie tank top. This can be done by cutting the sleeves and neckline of the T-shirt, and then cutting the backside of the shirt to create a tie. Another method involves cutting the sleeves off, cutting off the hem, and then cutting a deep V-shape into the back of the shirt. A strip of fabric can then be tied to the bottom of the V-shape and wrapped around the fabric moving downward to create a racerback design. For a more complex design, binding can be added to the tank top armholes and neck by using stretchy knit fabric strips from other upcycled clothing.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Required items | T-shirt, scissors, sewing machine (optional), needle and thread (optional), washable marker or pen (optional), sports bra or racer-back tank top (optional), ruler or measuring tape (optional) |
Preparation | Wash and dry the t-shirt, iron out any wrinkles |
Cutting | Cut the sleeves, cut the neckline, cut the backside, cut triangles from the flaps (for a front-tie tank top) |
Hemming | Fold the cut edges, pin them in place, press them flat with an iron, stitch the folded edges |
What You'll Learn
Cut the sleeves off
To cut the sleeves off a T-shirt, you'll need a few things: a T-shirt, a pair of sharp fabric scissors, chalk or a fabric marker, and a ruler or measuring tape.
First, select a T-shirt that fits well in the torso. Lay the T-shirt on a flat surface and smooth out any wrinkles. If there are any, use an iron to remove them.
Next, decide where to cut the sleeves. Use chalk or a fabric marker to draw a guideline just outside the seam. This step is crucial for cutting the sleeves off precisely.
Now, carefully cut along the marked line. Make small, controlled snips for the best results.
Once the sleeves are removed, you can finish the edges for a polished look. Fold the fabric over about 1/4 inch, pin it, and sew a straight stitch around the armhole. Try on the T-shirt to ensure the armholes are even and comfortable. Make any necessary adjustments.
If you prefer a more raw, casual look, you can leave the edges unfinished. T-shirt fabric does not fray easily, so you don't have to worry about the edges unraveling.
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Cut the neckline
To cut the neckline of your tank top, you will need a washable marker or pen, a ruler or measuring tape, and a pair of scissors.
Lay your T-shirt flat on a table or on the ground, making sure to smooth it out and line up the seams. Using your ruler or measuring tape, mark two inches from the seam at the neck of the T-shirt on both sides with your washable marker or pen. If you want to keep the ring on the shirt, be sure to mark two inches below the seam of the sleeve on both sides as well. If you prefer a deeper neckline, you can mark more than two inches below the seam.
Once you have made your marks, take your scissors and carefully cut along the curve of the sleeve seam, following the marks you have made on the neckline. Remember to only cut one sleeve off at this stage. After cutting the first sleeve, fold your T-shirt in half, lining up the neck seams. This will allow you to cut the second sleeve identically to the first.
Now you have successfully cut the neckline of your T-shirt! You can leave the raw edge as is, or you can fold and stitch the neckline for a more finished look.
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Cut the backside
Now it's time to cut the backside of your tank top. This is where you need to be extra careful to only cut through one layer of fabric. You don't want to accidentally cut through the front side as well, or you'll end up with a funny-shaped tank top!
Take your sports bra or racerback tank top and use it as a stencil for the back of your shirt. Line up the shoulders of the stencil with the top of your tank top. Trace the outline of the stencil onto the back of your shirt, filling in any gaps with a pen or marker if needed.
Now, carefully cut out the backside of the shirt, following the outline you just drew. Remember, only cut through the back layer of fabric!
If you want to add a cute detail to the back of your tank top, you can create a racerback design. Cut a 0.5"-1" wide strip of fabric from one of the sleeves you cut off earlier. You can also cut a strip from the bottom hem of the shirt if you prefer. You may need two strips, depending on how far down the back you want the racerback detail to go.
Grab the back of your tank top and bunch it together at the spot where you want the racerback to begin. Tie your strip of fabric tightly around this bunched fabric, leaving a longer end on the tie. Begin winding the long piece of fabric downwards, tucking the short end underneath as you go. When you get to the bottom of the racerback section, tie another knot to secure the fabric in place.
And that's it! You've successfully cut the backside of your tank top and added an optional racerback detail.
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Make the ties for the back
Now that you have cut the back of your tank top, it's time to make the ties. This is a creative process, so feel free to experiment with different styles and techniques. Here are some detailed instructions to guide you through the process:
Take the sleeves that you cut off earlier and cut them into strips. Aim for a width of 0.5" to 1" for each strip. You will need a few of these strips to create the ties for the back of your tank top. If you're using a sports bra or a racerback tank as a stencil, you can cut the strips to match the width of the straps.
Grab the back of your tank top and bunch it together at the spot where you want the "racerback" portion to begin. This is where you will attach the ties, so make sure you are happy with the placement before proceeding.
Take one of your fabric strips and tie it in a tight knot around the bunched fabric. Leave a longer end to the tie, as you will use this to wrap and secure the knot. Make sure the knot is tight and secure, as it will be the foundation of your racerback tie.
Start wrapping the long piece of fabric string around and down the bunched fabric. As you wrap, tuck the short end of the string underneath to hide the excess fabric. This will create a neat and secure finish.
If you run out of string before reaching the desired length, simply tie on another strip and continue wrapping. Remember to tie a knot at the end of each strip to secure it in place.
Once you have reached your desired length, tie another knot to secure the fabric. Then, use your finger to weave and tuck the excess fabric beyond the knot back into the twist. This will prevent the tie from coming undone or unraveling in the wash.
And there you have it! You've created a stylish and functional racerback tie for your tank top. Feel free to make any final adjustments to the length or fit, and don't be afraid to add your own creative touches.
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Finish with a rolled hem
Sewing a Rolled Hem with a Rolled Hem Foot
This is the easiest and fastest way to sew a rolled hem. You can use a Bernina foot 69 to sew rolled hems with a straight stitch, zig-zag stitch, or decorative stitches (like shell or scallop). When buying a rolled hem foot, consider what you'll be using it for to make sure you choose the right one. For example, Bernina makes straight stitch rolled hem feet that only work with a straight stitch, and also zig-zag/decorative stitch rolled hem feet.
The only hard part is getting the rolled hem started. First, sew a few basting stitches (about 1cm long) and then carefully remove your fabric, making sure the stitches don’t unravel. Don’t cut the tail threads – these will be your guide. You will be sewing with the wrong side of the fabric facing upwards. Use the tail threads to help guide your hem through the foot.
Once you have the first part of the hem seated in the guide, lower your presser foot and begin sewing! Use your right hand to keep the raw pulled about 3/8" to 1/2" over as you’re sewing to make sure the fabric stays seated properly. But don’t force it! You don’t want to create nasty bubbles in your hem.
Sewing a Rolled Hem with a Machine without a Rolled Hem Foot
This method is a great option if you don't have a rolled hem foot and don't have the patience for sewing a rolled hem by hand. It’s quite straightforward – the real trick here is to make sure you don’t skip steps, and to press everything as you go.
First, sew ¼” (0.6cm) from the raw edge all the way around the skirt hem. Then, fold over the hem along the line of sewing towards the wrong side of the fabric, and press. Go slowly to ensure that the fabric eases into the curve. Sew a scant 1/8” (0.3cm) from the folded edge all the way around the skirt hem. Trim back the raw edge of the hem, as close to the line of sewing as you can. Once again, fold over the hemline, just enough to enclose the raw edge, and press, ensuring that the curve of the hemline is maintained. Sew through the centre of your rolled hem, all the way around the hemline. Your finished hem should be a very narrow 1/8” (0.3cm).
Sewing a Rolled Hem by Hand
This is the most time-consuming method, but the result is beautiful! When done by hand, you create a soft, natural roll with no visible stitches – similar to a slip stitch.
First, sew 1/4” away from your raw edge. Trim back to 1/8”. This stitch will help you keep an even and consistent roll. Fold and press over the fabric towards the wrong side, just past that row of stitching. Now it’s time to start the hand stitching. This is very similar to the slipstitch:
- Knot your thread, and bring your needle and thread up through the folded edge, right in the fold.
- Directly above where your thread is coming through the fold, pick up only 1 or 2 threads right above the raw edge. It’s very important that you only pick up one or two threads – too much and it will show on the right side of the fabric.
- Go back and insert your needle back into the fold, right next to where it came out previously. Go through the fold about 1/4″ – 1/2″ through the fold.
- Again, pick up one or two threads directly above. Keep repeating these steps.
This is what it will look like after a few stitches. You should have pairs of vertical threads spaced about 1/4″ – 1/2″ apart. Now for the magic – lightly pull on your thread, and your fabric will roll itself, and those stitches and the raw edge will disappear! Don’t pull too tightly, and carefully smooth out with your fingers to reduce any bubbling. Do this after every 4-5″ of stitching. Stitch, pull, smooth, stitch, pull, smooth, etc.
Serged Rolled Hem with a Serger/Overlocker
You can use your serger/overlocker and the right settings to sew both narrow and rolled hems. Serging a rolled hem is a matter of changing your overlocker settings and removing one of the needles so you end up sewing with three threads.
To get a narrow hem with a serger machine, simply remove the thread in the left needle, remove or adjust the stitching finger, and adjust the stitch width to the narrowest setting. To get a rolled hem, you need to follow all the steps in a narrow hem but also adjust the tension in the upper looper and lower looper.
Keep adjusting the tensions until you’re happy with how the fabric edge rolls under. Please note that the amount of rolled fabric depends on the type of fabric used and the stitch width. Thin fabrics will roll best while medium-weight fabrics will roll just a little bit. You can change the look of your rolled hem by changing your stitch length and width.
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