Creating Your Own Affliction T-Shirt: A Step-By-Step Guide

Affliction T-shirts are a popular clothing line with a distinctive style. The brand is known for its dark gothic imagery, skulls, intricate ornaments, and woodcut linework, often featuring generous prints across the shoulders, faded prints, and grunge elements. Creating an Affliction-style T-shirt involves various techniques, including hand-drawn illustrations, specialty washes, custom distressing, dying, sewing, and printing. The brand uses high-quality cotton and unique treatments to achieve its desired look and feel. Additionally, Affliction has successfully utilised celebrity endorsements and marketing strategies to build a loyal customer base.

Bleach painting

Preparation:

Before starting the project, it is important to keep in mind that bleach is toxic and can be dangerous. Therefore, it should be kept safely out of the reach of children. During the process, it is important to protect your eyes, skin, and clothing from coming into direct contact with the bleach. If you have sensitive skin, it is recommended to wear thin gloves. Additionally, it is advised to work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling bleach fumes.

Materials:

• Fabric-safe household bleach
• Inexpensive synthetic bristle paintbrush
• Glass or ceramic bowl
• Dark-colored cotton-blend T-shirt
• White towel or rag
• White chalk
• Cardboard

Process:

• Place a flat sheet of cardboard inside your T-shirt to create an even surface for your design. This will also prevent the bleach from bleeding through to the back of the shirt.
• Using the white chalk, sketch out your desired design on the T-shirt. You can smudge out chalk lines and re-sketch if needed.
• Secure the T-shirt by folding the sides under the cardboard and using elastics or clips to keep it in place.
• Prepare a small bowl of non-diluted, fabric-safe bleach. Keep a towel nearby to wipe up any potential drips.
• Dip your brush into the bleach and gently drag it along the edge of the bowl to eliminate any excess dripping.
• Use steady strokes to trace the chalk lines of your design. For an even bleach line, reload your brush every two inches, as the fabric will quickly absorb the liquid.
• Take breaks as needed and return to check on your design. If there are any uneven spots or light areas, simply go back and apply more bleach with your brush to even out the design.
• Once you are satisfied with your design, let the T-shirt sit in the sun for an hour or more to allow the bleach to process and lighten the fabric. Depending on the cotton content, the color of your design can range from dark red to orange, pink, or white.
• Finally, rinse and hand wash your T-shirt and hang it to dry. Your design is now permanent and safe to wash with similarly colored clothing.

Additional Tips:

• There are various design options to explore, including large paintings, groupings of small shapes, simple patterns like stripes and dots, and handwriting.
• You can use a bleach pen or an old marker to apply the bleach if you don't want to use a paintbrush.
• To accelerate the bleaching process, you can use a hairdryer to heat the design.
• You can also create multiple layers of bleach to achieve a lighter color.
• If you make small mistakes, you can correct them with a black Sharpie, especially if you are working on a black fabric.
• To stop the bleaching action, you can use peroxide or vinegar. However, be cautious when using vinegar as it can create toxic fumes when mixed with bleach.

By following these steps and tips, you can successfully create your own Affliction T-shirt using the bleach painting technique.

Screen printing

Select a T-shirt Design

First, select a plain, clean, and unwrinkled T-shirt to print on. Avoid using fabric softener or dryer sheets when laundering the shirt, as this may prevent the ink from setting. It is also important to ensure the shirt is free of folds or wrinkles, as this can affect the transfer of the design.

Next, choose or create a black-and-white image for your T-shirt design. Keep the design simple, especially if this is your first time screen printing. The image must be in black and white to transfer onto the screen. You can use programs like Photoshop, Microsoft Word, or Microsoft PowerPoint to create or alter your image.

Set up the Silkscreen

Prepare your workstation in a dim room and cover the surface with newspaper or an old sheet/tarp to protect it from chemicals. Then, mix the emulsion and sensitizer according to the manufacturer's instructions. Wear rubber gloves while handling these chemicals.

Now, it's time to prepare the silkscreen, which is a wooden frame covered with thin mesh. Place the silkscreen on your work surface and elevate it by pushing a pin into each corner. This will allow you to fill the well of the frame with emulsion.

Pour 1-2 tablespoons of emulsion into the well and use a squeegee to spread it evenly across the screen. Flip the frame over and coat the flat side with emulsion as well. Ensure the coating is smooth, as any imperfections will transfer to your T-shirt design.

Let the screen dry overnight in a dim space. You can speed up the process by placing a fan near the screen.

Expose the Emulsion to Light

Place the transparency sheet with your design and a glass sheet onto the flat side of the frame. Make sure the room is still dim. If your image is not symmetrical, place the transparency sheet so that the image appears backward, especially for text-based designs.

Position a light source with a 250-watt light bulb above the frame. The light will harden the emulsion that is not blocked by your design. Expose the emulsion to the light according to the manufacturer's instructions, which can vary. Generally, it will take 1 minute to 1 hour for the emulsion to harden and darken in appearance.

Transfer the Design onto the T-shirt

Slip a piece of cardboard into your shirt to prevent the ink from staining the back. Position the flat side of the screen against the front of your T-shirt, placing the image in the desired location.

Place about 1 tablespoon of screen printing ink above your design and use a clean squeegee to pull the ink across your design in a single direction. For larger designs, add more ink as needed, being careful not to oversaturate the fabric.

Remove the screen from the T-shirt and allow the ink to dry. Refer to the ink's manufacturing instructions for drying times. Finally, set the ink with heat to permanently press the design onto the shirt. Ironing is a common method, but some brands may require exposure to sunlight or a dryer.

Additional Tips:

• For more complex designs with multiple colors, you will need to create multiple screens, with one color per screen.
• When drying the emulsion-coated screen, ensure the room is free of UV light, as it can prematurely harden the emulsion.
• When exposing the emulsion to light, you can speed up the process by placing the frame outside in direct sunlight. Just make sure to cover the emulsion and frame with an opaque object.
• Always wear rubber gloves when working with emulsion and sensitizer to protect your skin.

Using water-based inks

Affliction T-shirts are made with high-quality cotton and feature original art, alternative washes, and detailed embellishments. To make your own Affliction T-shirt, you can use water-based inks for screen printing. Here's a guide:

Choosing the Right Ink

Water-based inks are a type of screen printing ink that has little to no feel when printed on a shirt. They are known for their softness, and when paired with a soft tee, they create an incredibly comfortable garment. Water-based inks are generally more expensive and are reserved for experienced printers.

Garment Recommendations

Water-based inks are best used on 100% cotton garments, specifically combed ring-spun cotton for the best results. They can be printed on both light and dark-coloured shirts, but the method of printing differs slightly for each.

Printing on Light-Coloured Garments

When printing on white or light-coloured shirts, the ink behaves as expected. However, printing on a light-coloured shirt might slightly alter the final colour. For example, printing light blue ink on a white shirt will give an accurate colour, but printing the same ink on a dark grey shirt will result in a few shades darker.

Printing on Dark-Coloured Garments

Printing on dark-coloured shirts is more complex. Water-based printing on dark shirts is typically done through discharge water-based inks. Discharge printing uses a discharge agent mixed into the ink to remove the dye from the shirt, bringing it back to its natural cotton colour. The new pigment then replaces the old dye, re-dying the shirt in the print area.

Washing Instructions

Shirts printed with water-based inks can be washed normally. However, the prints may not be as vibrant as plastisol prints, and achieving bright colours can be challenging. The print will be ultra-soft and long-lasting.

Advantages of Water-Based Inks

Water-based inks offer several advantages:

• Softness: They are incredibly soft, and the print will be almost as soft as the T-shirt itself, providing maximum comfort.
• Environmental Friendliness: They are generally considered more environmentally friendly as they use fewer toxins and petroleum products.
• Longevity: They can last much longer than plastisol prints because they become part of the garment. The pigments left behind can last as long as the garment.
• Higher Detail: Water-based inks can be made very thin, allowing for extremely high mesh counts and photorealistic results with microscopic details.
• Breathability: Unlike plastisol, water-based inks allow air to pass through since the pigments are embedded within the garment's fibres.
• Quality and Colour: Water-based inks do not sacrifice quality or colour. They can achieve vibrant prints on dark garments, and Pantone matching is now possible with highly technical shops.

Vintage washes

Affliction T-shirts are made from 30/1 or 30/single cotton and are silicone-washed. The vintage wash process is what gives the T-shirts their soft and comfortable feel. Here are some techniques to achieve a vintage wash on a T-shirt:

Vintage Wash Techniques

Oversized Fit:

From the late 1980s to the late 1990s, T-shirts that went down to the thighs and forearms were all the rage. Going for an oversized fit is an easy way to make a T-shirt look vintage.

Burnout:

Burnout, also called devoré, is a chemical process that dissolves cellulose fibres in mixed-fiber materials, creating translucent patterns. It was first used in the 19th century as a cheap alternative to conventional lace and became popular in the 1920s for shawls and evening gowns.

Textured Fabric:

Using textured fabric gives T-shirts an unusual feel and makes them more inviting and comfortable to touch. Most T-shirts are made of satin, a woven cotton fabric with a soft and smooth texture.

Washed Dye:

The washed dye technique makes it look like part of the dye has been washed out of the fabric during a hot wash. This style was popular in the 1990s and is now coming back into fashion. To achieve this look, clothes makers expose sections of the fabric to hot water, causing the dye to run, or use a bleach wash to change the colour.

Enzymatic Process:

This technique uses enzymes that break down the molecules in dyes, causing colours to fade. Manufacturers apply these compounds to specific areas of the fabric to achieve a faded look.

Atmospheric Pressure Plasma (APP):

APP is a relatively new treatment where clothes are blasted with a jet of high-pressure plasma, causing colours to fade.

Sanding, Sandblasting, Stone Washing, Snow Washing, and Rinsing:

These techniques can be used to fade and distress the fabric, giving it a vintage look.

Printing Faux Washed-Dye Effects:

Some clothes makers print faux washed-dye effects directly onto T-shirts, creating a vintage look without any fading techniques.

Contrast Stitching:

Using yarn of a contrasting colour to stitch the seams of a garment is a common feature of vintage T-shirts. This technique has a haphazard feel, with chaotic, crisscross, or jagged stitching patterns that stand out.

Contrast Fabric:

Contrast fabric involves stitching a different type of fabric onto the main fabric of the garment, often adding an embellishment to the front of the T-shirt.

Faded Graphics:

Graphics on T-shirts can be made to look vintage by fading them. This can be done by producing graphics that already look faded, or by dunking the T-shirt in a mild bleach solution to discharge the ink.

DIY Techniques to Make a T-Shirt Look Vintage

Bleach Soak:

Soak the T-shirt in a solution of 3 gallons of warm water and 3 cups of liquid bleach for 30-45 minutes. Then, rinse before machine washing on warm and line drying.

Lemon Soak:

Mix 1 part lemon juice to 3 parts water and soak the T-shirt for 3-12 hours. Then, line dry and use pumice and sandpaper to wear down any graphics.

Vinegar Soak:

First, mix 1 part lemon juice with 3 parts water and soak the T-shirts for 3-12 hours. Then, scrub the T-shirts and soak them again in a solution of 1 part vinegar and 3 parts water for 4-12 hours.

Sandpaper:

Use fine-grit sandpaper on the cuffs, hems, and shoulders to give the T-shirt a distressed look.

Lemon Juice:

Drip lemon juice onto specific areas of the T-shirt and leave for a couple of hours, then rinse with lukewarm water and dry. To fade the whole T-shirt, dunk it in a bucket of lemon juice for several hours.

Razor Blade:

Use a sharp razor blade to make cut-outs, nicks, or slashes in the collar, hem, or front of the T-shirt for an ultra-distressed look.

Washing Soda:

Add 2 cups of salt and 1/4 cup of washing soda to your washer's detergent drawer, along with your usual detergent, and run a normal cycle. Then, set the dryer to high heat to shrink the T-shirt by 1-2 sizes. Repeat this process 3-5 times to achieve a worn-in look.

Sewing techniques

The first step in making an Affliction T-shirt is to source the right type of t-shirt. Affliction T-shirts are typically made from high-quality cotton, with a nice cut and slim fit. You can try to find pre-made blank t-shirts that resemble the Affliction style, or you can create a custom cut and sew your own t-shirts.

When it comes to sewing, there are a few techniques you can use to achieve the distressed and grunge look that Affliction T-shirts are known for. Here are some tips:

• Use a combination of specialty washes on the t-shirt fabric to give it a vintage look and feel. These washes will also help soften the fabric, making it more comfortable to wear.
• Experiment with different types of inks and printing techniques. Affliction uses discharge and water-based inks, as well as soft-base plastisol inks, to create their unique designs.
• Try foil printing for a metallic look.
• If you're sewing your own t-shirts, you can distress the fabric by hand to create a worn and grunge appearance. This can be done by sanding, fraying, or even cutting the fabric in specific areas.
• Pay attention to the placement of your designs. Affliction often features large prints across the shoulders, as well as intricate ornaments, woodcut linework, and faded prints.
• Don't be afraid to think outside the box and create unique designs. While Affliction has popularized a certain style, you can add your own twist to make your T-shirts stand out.

Remember, the key to achieving the Affliction look is in the details. The combination of high-quality fabric, intricate designs, specialty washes, and custom sewing techniques all come together to create the distinctive style that has made Affliction a popular brand.

Frequently asked questions