Handkerchiefs are functional, classic accessories that can be made from upcycling old t-shirts. They are easy to make as they are essentially squares of fabric with small hems on the edges. Cotton is the most commonly used fabric for handkerchiefs, but you can also use flannel or linen for a durable option. First, cut the back of the t-shirt, as it is the largest piece and the easiest to cut a large square from. Next, cut out a square from the fabric, ideally around 12x12, and fold and iron the edges to create hems. Finally, sew the edges in place using a straight stitch for a simple design or a zigzag stitch for something more decorative.
Characteristics | Values |
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First Step | Remove the back of the shirt, as it is the largest piece and the easiest to cut a large square from. |
Second Step | Cut out a 13″x13″ square. Cut out a square of cardboard to the same size, place it over the shirt and trace the perimeter with a washable fabric marker. Once you've made the square outline, cut it out. |
Third Step | Create hems on all sides of the square. Fold your first edge over 1/4″ and iron it flat. Fold your first fold over a second time and iron it. Pin down the fold to keep it steady for the sewing machine. Repeat this process 3 more times, once for each side of the square. |
Fourth Step | Sew the square. Set your machine to do a straight stitch around the hems of the square. Push your backup button on the machine and back up the stitch about 1/4 of an inch. Tie off and cut loose strings from the beginning and end stitch. |
Fifth Step | Iron the hem to get a sharp crease. |
What You'll Learn
Choosing the right fabric
When making a handkerchief from a T-shirt, the type of fabric you choose will depend on your desired functionality, style, and durability. Here are some factors to consider when choosing the right fabric:
Fabric Type
Cotton is the most popular fabric for T-shirts and handkerchiefs due to its softness, breathability, comfort, and ability to absorb moisture. It is a natural fabric that is gentle on the skin and provides a great surface for printing designs. However, cotton tends to hold moisture, making it slow to dry, and it is prone to wrinkling, shrinking, and fading over time.
Polyester is a synthetic fabric that is durable, quick-drying, and resistant to stains, wrinkles, and shrinking. It holds printed designs well and is ideal for athletic wear. However, polyester is not as breathable as cotton, tends to cling, and may irritate sensitive skin.
Linen is a natural fabric made from flax plant fibers, known for its lightweight, breathable, and durable qualities. It is an excellent choice for warm weather as it absorbs moisture without feeling damp. Linen is stronger than cotton and gets softer with every wash, but it requires regular ironing and is prone to wrinkling.
You can also find T-shirts made from blended fabrics, such as cotton-polyester blends, which offer the softness and comfort of cotton combined with the quick-drying and wrinkle-resistant properties of polyester. These blends are less prone to shrinking than pure cotton but may still irritate the skin and have limited printing options.
Fabric Weight
The weight of the fabric, measured in GSM (grams per square meter), will determine the thickness and heaviness of your handkerchief. Lightweight fabrics (around 100-150 GSM) are thinner and more breathable, while heavyweight fabrics (200+ GSM) are thicker and more durable. For a handkerchief, you will likely want a lightweight or medium-weight fabric that is comfortable and breathable.
Comfort and Fit
Consider the texture and composition of the fabric, as well as its stretch and elasticity. Natural fibers like cotton are generally softer and more breathable than synthetic ones. Fabrics with a blend of spandex or elastane offer better fit and flexibility. Try to find a fabric that feels gentle and allows for air circulation, providing comfort and ease of movement.
Longevity
Look for high-quality fabrics that will maintain their shape, color, and integrity over time. Combed cotton or blended materials are known for their durability. Check the stitching quality and read reviews to assess the fabric's performance and longevity.
Climate Sustainability
If you are concerned about the environmental impact of your fabric choice, opt for sustainable fabrics made from eco-friendly processes and renewable resources. Organic cotton and recycled polyester are great choices for reducing your ecological footprint.
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Cutting the T-shirt
The first step to making a handkerchief from a T-shirt is to cut the T-shirt to the desired dimensions. The standard size for a handkerchief is 12 by 12 inches (30 by 30 cm), but you can cut it to larger or smaller dimensions depending on your preference. If you are making a handkerchief to wear in the pocket of a suit, a larger size of 13 by 13 inches (33 by 33 cm) is recommended.
Before cutting, decide if you want to create a simple square handkerchief or a triangular one. For a square handkerchief, measure and mark the desired dimensions on the T-shirt, adding an extra inch on each side for the seam allowance. Cut along the markings to create your square.
If you prefer a triangular handkerchief, fold the fabric diagonally to form a triangle, ensuring the angle is 45 degrees. Measure the side to ensure it is the correct size, then cut along the folded edge.
Once you have the basic shape, it's time to create the hems. Fold and press each edge by a specific width, typically 0.5 inches (1.3 cm), depending on your desired fold width. You can use an iron to create a neat crease, but be cautious with delicate fabrics. For these, consider placing a T-shirt or towel over the fabric before ironing to prevent damage.
After folding and pressing the edges, you can choose to secure them with pins, especially if you're working with slippery fabric. Place the pins perpendicular to the fold for easier removal as you sew.
Now your T-shirt fabric is ready for the next step—creating the hems!
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Folding and pressing the fabric
Before you start folding, you may want to iron your fabric to ensure your final result is neat and free of wrinkles and bumps. If you are using a delicate fabric, such as silk, chiffon, or lace, place a T-shirt or towel over the fabric to prevent damage. Set your iron to the lowest possible setting.
Cut your fabric into a square. The size of the square depends on your desired handkerchief size. For a 10.5-inch handkerchief, cut an 11.5-inch square. If you want a standard 12-inch pocket square, cut a 13-inch square. Remember to account for extra fabric if you plan to make wider or narrower folds.
Place the fabric so that the wrong (back) side is facing up. Then, fold and measure one side by 0.5 inches (or your desired width) and press the fold with an iron to crease it. Repeat this process for the other three sides.
If you are using delicate fabric, consider placing a T-shirt over the edge of the handkerchief before ironing. You can also pin the folded edges with pins placed perpendicular to the fold, about 2 to 3 inches apart. However, avoid using pins with delicate fabrics.
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Sewing the handkerchief
Now that you have your fabric cut into a square, it's time to sew your handkerchief!
Before you start sewing, decide whether you want to use a sewing machine or sew by hand. Sewing by hand will be gentler on delicate fabrics, but using a sewing machine will be quicker.
If you're using a sewing machine, set it to the straight stitch setting. If you're sewing by hand, thread the needle with double cotton and knot the end.
Now, it's time to start sewing! Sew 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) from the folded edges on all four sides. You can also sew along the edges of the folded fabric or sew over it with a zigzag stitch for a decorative finish.
If you're sewing by hand, insert the needle through the fabric about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) from the raw edge and bring it all the way through both layers of the folded fabric until the thread is taut. Then, bring the needle back through on the other side of the fabric about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) from the first stitch.
Continue sewing until you've gone all the way around the handkerchief. When you come back to the beginning, push the backup button on the machine and back up the stitch by about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) to secure it.
Finally, don't forget to tie off and cut any loose strings from the beginning and end of the stitch.
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Embroidering or decorating the handkerchief
Embroidering or decorating a handkerchief is a great way to add a personal touch to your creation. You can embroider initials, names, or phrases using a running stitch or backstitch. For instance, embroidering initials onto the corner or centre of the handkerchief can make a thoughtful gift. Embroidery roses are also a popular theme for a feminine touch. Common stitches to use are satin stitch, seed embroidery stitch, backstitch for outlining, and blanket stitch.
If you're a beginner, it's a good idea to buy some extra fabric to test your designs and stitches. This way, you can figure out if the back of your embroidery looks the way you want it to. You can also test if your chosen stitch works well with the type of fabric you're using. For instance, some fabrics can snag, pull, and pucker easily.
If you want your embroidery to look good on both sides of the fabric, consider using stitches that look the same or at least look clean on the backside. For instance, French knots are not very secure, and a colonial knot is a more secure stitch. Additionally, choose stitches that are inherently secure, such as the long and short stitch.
When embroidering, remember to use a waste knot instead of an away knot. End your thread with three little stab stitches, placing them on a design line or inside the design where they will be covered up by other stitches.
If you're using a sewing machine with an embroidery setting, you can use that to embroider a design onto the handkerchief.
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Frequently asked questions
Cotton is the most commonly used fabric for handkerchiefs, but silk is also a good option. Anything soft and natural works well.
A standard handkerchief is 12x12 inches (30.5x30.5cm), but any size square will work.
First, remove the back of the t-shirt, as it is the largest piece and easiest to cut a square from. Then, cut out a 13"x13" square.
Fold one edge of the fabric over by 1/4" and iron it flat. Then, fold it over again and iron it a second time. Pin down the fold to keep it steady for sewing. Repeat this process for each side of the square.
A straight stitch is a simple option, but a zigzag stitch will stand out more and create an eye-catching design.