
T-shirt binding is a sewing technique used to finish the edges of a garment, such as the neckline, sleeve cuffs, or bottom hem. It involves measuring and cutting binding fabric, typically made from stretchy knit fabric, to 80-90% of the length of the opening being bound. This process can be applied to upcycling old t-shirts into unique garments, such as transforming a t-shirt into a tank top. Binding a t-shirt neckline involves sewing the binding fabric to the raw edge of the garment, stretching it to fit, and then topstitching. This technique can be adapted for different types of edges, such as open or closed edges, and can also be used to add character and contrast to a basic t-shirt.
What You'll Learn
How to measure and cut your binding fabric
The first step in making a t-shirt binding is to measure the opening you plan to bind. This could be the armholes or the neckline of the t-shirt. For the armholes, you can decide where you want to cut them, cut them out, and try the tank top on to make sure that's where you want them to be. For the neckline, you will need to sew one of the shoulder seams first, with the right sides of the fabric together, before you can measure the opening.
Once you have your measurement, you need to calculate 80-90% of that number—this is how long you'll cut your binding fabric. So, for example, if you are binding a neckline that measures 20″ in length, the binding fabric will be between 16″ and 18″ long (80% and 90% of 20″, respectively). The percentage you choose depends on the stretchiness of your binding fabric. If your binding fabric is very stretchy (like a ribbed knit), you should cut closer to 80%. If it's less stretchy (like jersey), then cut at 90%.
As for the width of your binding fabric, this is more of a personal preference. A good range is between 1¼” and 2″ for all projects.
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How to attach binding to a tank top armhole
Attaching binding to a tank top armhole can be done in a few simple steps. This process will add structure and support to the armhole, giving it a neat, finished look. Here's a step-by-step guide:
Step 1: Prepare the Binding
First, decide where you want to cut the armholes. Cut out the armholes and try on the tank top to ensure you are happy with the placement. Next, measure the armhole circumference by measuring from the shoulder seam to the side seam, and then double that measurement. Finally, subtract 1 inch from the total to get the length of the armhole binding. Cut 2-inch strips of binding fabric to this length, ensuring that the strips are cut on the stretch of the fabric. Sew the short ends of the strips together to form a ring, using a ¼ – 3/8 inch seam allowance.
Step 2: Mark the Halfway Points
Fold the binding ring in half to find the halfway point and mark it with a pin. Do the same for the armhole, finding the halfway point from the side seam, which may be slightly off to the side rather than at the shoulder seam.
Step 3: Pin and Sew the Binding
With the shirt inside out, line up the binding seam with the side seam of the armhole and pin it in place. Then, line up the halfway points of the binding and armhole and pin them together. Stretch the binding slightly as you pin, as it will be shorter than the armhole. Sew the binding to the armhole, starting at the underarm seam, using a 3/8 inch seam allowance and a regular straight stitch. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Step 4: Fold and Stitch the Binding
Fold the binding over to the wrong side of the fabric, ensuring that the seam is enclosed within the binding. On the top side of the fabric, stitch in the ditch, which is where the shirt meets the binding. Start by turning your sewing machine handwheel towards you to position the needle in the crevice, then begin sewing, easing and stretching the fabric slightly as you go. Backstitch at the end to secure the stitch.
Step 5: Trim the Excess Fabric
Carefully trim away any excess fabric close to the seam, being very careful not to cut the fabric underneath. The armhole binding is now complete! You can repeat this process for the other armhole and even the neck binding if desired.
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How to attach binding to a sleeve edge
Adding binding to a sleeve edge is a great way to give character and contrast to a basic T-shirt. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to attach binding to a sleeve edge:
Step 1: Measure the Sleeve Opening
First, you need to measure the sleeve opening. Multiply this measurement by 2, and then subtract 1 inch. This will be the length of your binding. For example, if your sleeve opening measures 8 inches, your binding length would be (8 x 2) - 1 = 15 inches.
Step 2: Cut the Binding Fabric
Cut your binding fabric to the length calculated in Step 1, with a width of 2 inches. It is important to cut the binding fabric along the direction of the stretch.
Step 3: Prepare the Sleeve
Place the right side of the binding against the right side of the sleeve edge. The binding should be slightly stretched, but be careful not to stretch the bottom layer of the sleeve. Gently pull on the binding as you stitch it to the sleeve, finding a 'comfortable' amount of stretch.
Step 4: Stitch the Binding to the Sleeve
Stitch the binding to the sleeve edge using a 3/8-inch seam allowance. Backstitch for added strength. You can use a straight stitch or a narrow zig-zag stitch, depending on your preference and the fabric you are working with.
Step 5: Wrap the Binding
Now, wrap the binding around to the wrong side of the sleeve. You can pin the binding in place if you wish, but it is not necessary. Gently stretch all the layers so they feed smoothly through your machine. This step will also give the binding a bit of stretch, ensuring the threads won't break when the sleeve is stretched.
Step 6: Edge Stitch
Finally, edge stitch on top of the binding, approximately 1/8 inch from the edge. You can also 'stitch in the ditch', sewing in the seam between the sleeve and binding, but this can be trickier to execute neatly.
And that's it! You have now successfully attached binding to a sleeve edge. This technique can add a unique touch to your T-shirts and is a great way to upcycle basic garments.
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How to add a label or tag
Adding a label or tag to your garment is a great way to customise your clothing and give it a professional finish. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to do it:
Firstly, cut out your label and decide where you want to place it. Some recommended places are the outer bottom centre of the sleeve, just under the neck binding on the back of the garment, or the bottom hem.
Next, you will need to reinforce the fabric by applying a small piece of interfacing to the backside of the fabric where you want to attach the label. Make sure to follow the instructions on your stabiliser. This step is especially important if your fabric is thin or flimsy.
Now you are ready to sew on the label. Using a narrow, short zigzag stitch, carefully sew around the edges of the label to secure it in place.
And that's it! You have now successfully added a label or tag to your garment. This is an optional step, but it can really make your creation unique and give it a personal touch.
If you want to learn more about making your own labels, you can find additional information and resources online.
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How to attach binding to a closed edge
This method is best for a round edge, such as a neckline where both shoulder seams are already sewn.
First, measure the opening you plan to bind. Calculate 80-90% of that number—that's how long you'll cut your binding fabric. If your binding fabric is very stretchy (like a ribbed knit), cut closer to 80%. If it's not very stretchy (like jersey), cut at 90%.
Now, sew your binding fabric into a circle. Then, fold the binding in half with the wrong sides together.
Line up the three raw edges: two from the binding and one from the other clothing piece. Pin the binding around the garment edge. A good way to do this is to divide both the main fabric and the binding into fourths and place a pin at each point. Then, match these points and stretch the remaining binding to fill the rest.
Sew the binding and garment together with a serger or a zig-zag stitch. Finish by topstitching close to the seam with your desired stitch (a knit stitch or twin needle works well).
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Frequently asked questions
Measure the opening you plan to bind, then calculate 80-90% of that number—this will be the length of your binding fabric. If your fabric is very stretchy, cut closer to 80%; if it's less stretchy, cut closer to 90%.
This depends on whether you're working with an open or closed edge. For an open edge, fold the binding in half with the wrong sides together, then align and pin the raw edges of the binding and garment. Sew with a serger, knit stitch, or zig-zag stitch. For a closed edge, you'll need to be more precise with your measurements as you won't be able to cut away any excess. Sew your binding fabric into a circle, then follow the same process as for an open edge.
You can use a serger, knit stitch, or zig-zag stitch to attach the binding to the T-shirt. For a professional finish, topstitch around the fabric close to the edge with a twin needle or the narrow knit stitch setting on your sewing machine.