The Art Of T-Shirt Placket: A Step-By-Step Guide

A placket is an opening in the upper part of trousers or skirts, or at the neck or sleeve of a garment. Plackets are almost always used to allow clothing to be put on or removed easily, but they are sometimes used as a design element. Modern plackets often contain fabric facings or attached bands to surround and reinforce fasteners such as buttons, snaps, or zippers.

This paragraph aims to introduce the topic of how to make a t-shirt placket, which is a detail often used in tailored shirts and blouses. It is a skill that will elevate your sewing abilities to the next level.

How to cut fabric for a t-shirt placket

To cut fabric for a t-shirt placket, you will need to decide how long you want the opening of your placket to be. This doesn't include the extra bit of fabric that will fall below the opening, but just the amount of the opening to ensure it can fit over the wearer's head.

Then, on the "wrong side" of your fabric, draw a line down the centre of the shirt, starting at the neckline. Using a ruler will help you draw a straight line. Cut down this line, but cut 1/2 inch less than the desired placket opening length.

Now, cut your placket pieces. You will need two strips, one that is a little longer than the other. For the length of the longer strip, add your desired opening length, plus a 1/2 inch seam allowance for the top, plus an extra 1 1/2 inches for the seam allowance at the bottom. For the shorter strip, use the same formula but with only a 1/2 inch seam allowance for the bottom.

For the width, decide how wide you want your placket to be, then multiply this number by 3 to get the width for each piece of fabric. For example, for a 1-inch wide placket, cut each strip to be 3 inches wide.

Now you are ready to attach your placket pieces to the shirt and continue constructing your placket!

How to sew a basic button placket

Sewing a basic button placket is a great skill to have and will elevate your sewing projects. A placket is an opening in the upper part of trousers or skirts, or at the neck or sleeve of a garment. They are almost always used to allow clothing to be put on or removed easily, but they can also be used as a design element.

Step 1: Prepare the Fabric

First, decide how long you want the opening of your placket to be. This should be long enough to fit over the wearer's head while open. Draw a line down the centre of the shirt on the "wrong side" of the fabric, starting at the neckline. Using a ruler will help you draw a straight line. Then, cut down this line, but cut 1/2 inch less than the desired length of the placket opening.

Step 2: Cut the Placket Pieces

You will need two strips of fabric for the placket, one slightly longer than the other. The length of the longer strip can be calculated as follows: desired opening length + 1/2 inch (seam allowance for the top) + 1 1/2 inches (seam allowance for the bottom, plus extra). The shorter strip is calculated as: desired opening length + 1 inch (seam allowance).

The width of the strips is up to you; if you want a narrow placket, multiply the desired width by 3, and this will give you the width for each piece of fabric.

Step 3: Place and Pin the Strips

Turn your fabric to the "wrong side" and place the longer strip with the "right side" facing down. Line up the right edge of the fabric with the left opening on the shirt, letting the top edge hang over 1/2 inch above the neckline. Make sure the edge of the placket fabric is even with the cut edge of the shirt fabric and pin it in place.

Place the shorter strip along the right opening of the shirt in the same way, ensuring that the two strips meet at the top and are even down the sides. The longer strip on the left should hang down about 1 inch below the shorter strip.

Step 4: Sew the Strips

Sew the two strips in place along the openings of the shirt, using a seam allowance that is half of your desired placket width. Sew a little extra beyond the desired opening length, adding an extra 1/2 inch to the length of your stitches. At the bottom, you should have a 1 1/2 inch gap on the longer strip and a 1/2 inch gap on the shorter strip.

Step 5: Cut and Iron

Turn the shirt to the "right side" and cut two diagonal lines from the bottom of the opening towards the end of each seam, being careful not to cut through the seam or placket fabric. Turn the shirt back to the inside and iron the shorter strip on the right, folding it all the way over to the left along the seam where it is attached.

Step 6: Fold and Sew the Shorter Strip

Pull the shorter strip through the opening to the front of the shirt, which should fit through the diagonal slit at the bottom. Fold the right edge of the strip 1/2 inch and iron it in place. Then, fold this piece of fabric back over to the left, exposing the "right side" of the fabric. Fold the strip in half with "right sides" together, matching the edges on the left, top, and bottom. Sew the layers together along the very top, 1/2 inch from the top, and trim off the corners.

Step 7: Turn and Iron the Shorter Strip

Turn the shorter strip right side out, encasing this side of the shirt opening, and iron it in place. The top should be closed around the neckline, and the bottom should still be open. Sew all the way down the left side of the fabric and across the bottom, making sure to catch the folded edge of the triangle within the seam.

Step 8: Repeat with the Longer Strip

Repeat the process with the longer strip on the other side, folding it over to the right, ironing, and folding the left edge over 1/2 inch. Then, fold the strip over to the right, exposing the "right side", and fold it in half with "right sides" together. Sew the layers together along the top, trim the corners, and turn the strip right side out. Iron it in place and make a seam down both edges of the strip, stopping where you did with the first strip.

Step 9: Finish the Longer Strip

Lift the bottom of the longer strip and fold under the end 1/2 inch, pressing it down. If the ends of the fabric underneath are bulky or overlapping, trim off the excess. Sew the end of this fabric down, creating a square of seams, and sew a large "X" through the square.

Step 10: Attach Your Chosen Closure

Now you can attach your chosen closure, such as buttons, velcro, snaps, or velcro. Sew on buttonholes and buttons, or use teeny hidden snaps or metal snaps.

And there you have it! You've sewn a basic button placket.

How to sew a hidden placket

A hidden placket is a detail often used in tailored shirts and blouses. It is a slightly more complex version of a basic button placket, with an extra fold of fabric on top of the portion you sew the buttonholes through, essentially hiding the buttons from view. It creates a clean, minimalist look. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to sew a hidden placket:

Step 1: Prepare the Placket

Accuracy is key when sewing plackets, so it is important to prepare your placket according to the instructions. First, take your front bodice and fold the neckline in half. Use a pin to mark the centre front. Place the placket piece right side down on the wrong side of the front bodice, lining up the guideline on the top of the placket with the neckline of the bodice. Pin the placket in place along the lines of the marked box. Stitch around the cut line, walking in the stitches at each corner to ensure precision. Cut along the cut line through the placket and the front bodice, and cut into each corner of the rectangle, getting close to the stitch line without cutting through it. Flip the placket to the right side of the front bodice and press along the seams and corners.

Step 2: Finish the Top Edge of the Placket

Focusing on the underside of the placket, press the folded edge towards the seam of the opening, using the notches as a guide so that the piece has right sides together. With tailor's chalk, mark a straight line along the top of the placket, about 1cm down from the top edge. Pin in place. Stitch along the line, getting as close as possible to the edge of the binding, then trim back the edge to minimise bulk.

Step 3: Turn the Placket Right Side Out and Press

Use a corner turner to turn the point of the placket, then press along the fold line in the opposite direction. Press the placket so that the fold just covers the stitch line underneath by about 1mm. Pin in place from the top, down to where the opening ends (approximately 2cm up from the bottom of the placket). Stitch down from the top to the last pin, close to the folded edge.

Step 4: Assemble the Other Side of the Placket

Using the notches closest to the left side, make a crease in the placket. Ensure that the long edge of the placket is still folded under. This side is slightly different as it is made up of two pieces, so that the buttons will be covered by a shield. Flip the front bodice to access the wrong side, then fold the placket into two sections, using the notches as a guide. Mark a line across the top about 1cm from the top and pin in place. Stitch along the line, then trim back the seam allowance to minimise bulk.

Step 5: Turn the Placket Right Side Out and Fold the Raw Edge Inside

Use a corner turner to help create a nice point on each of the corners. Turn the placket right side out, then fold the raw edge inside the placket and press flat. Carefully fold the placket so that each section is neatly stacked on top of the section underneath. The left side of the placket will still be open. Give it a good press.

Step 6: Finish the Bottom Edge of the Placket

With the raw edge still folded back, reverse the direction of the internal fold so that the right sides come together. Pin the bottom of the placket together. Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance, then trim back the seam allowance and turn the corner with a corner turner. Give the placket a good press, then pin in place through both sections of the top placket, ensuring the fold covers the stitch line underneath. Mark a horizontal line across the placket about 5cm up from the bottom and stitch the placket in place through all the layers.

Step 7: Attach the Placket to the Shirt

Stabilize the left shirt button placket (the "under" placket) by cutting a 1" wide piece of interfacing as long as your shirt front, and applying it between the first set of notches on the left shirt front, on the wrong side of the fabric. Prepare the right shirt front by trimming off the excess as indicated on your pattern piece. Interface the hidden placket by applying interfacing to the layer that will include the buttonholes and the top layer that will hide this portion. Before sewing the placket to the shirt, press it like an accordion along the indicated notches and press in the seam allowances. Install the buttonholes, using the buttonhole guides on your pattern piece or a ruler or seam gauge to locate them. Sew your buttonholes centred on the second fold of your placket.

Step 8: Attach the Placket to the Right Shirt Front

Pin the placket in place, ensuring the right side of the placket is being sewn and the buttonholes are further away from the centre front seam. Stitch the placket to the right shirt front and press the seam towards the centre. Fold the placket closed and press, ensuring the seam allowance on the bottom is folded under and concealing the stitch line. If your seams are thick, grade them now, leaving the seam touching the outside of the placket the longest to create a gradual "stepping down" effect that will be invisible from the outside of the shirt. Pin the placket in place from the right side, ensuring the bottom seam allowance is folded under neatly along the stitch line. From the right side, topstitch the placket down about 1/8" away from the seam line, catching the folded seam of the placket on the wrong side.

And there you have it! You have now successfully sewn a hidden placket.

How to sew a continuous placket

A continuous bound placket is a type of placket that is made from one piece of fabric and is bound around the opening. It is a good option for dressy garments and softer fabrics. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to sew a continuous placket:

Step 1: Prepare the Sleeve and Placket

You will need your sleeve and placket fabric pieces. Clearly mark the placket placement line on the right side of your sleeve.

Step 2: Stitch Around the Placket Line

Stitch around the placket line before cutting it. Sew about 1/8" or less (2-3mm) around the marked placket line.

Step 3: Cut Along the Placket Line

Using sharp scissors, carefully cut along the placket line. Be precise to avoid cutting the stitches.

Step 4: Press and Pin the Placket

Press under 1/4" (6mm) on one long edge of the placket piece. Then, pin the unpressed edge to the slashed opening, ensuring the raw edges align.

Step 5: Sew the Placket in Place

Sew the placket to the slashed opening with a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance. It is recommended to sew with the slashed side up to ensure you are catching the fabric in the middle.

Step 6: Press the Seam and Wrap the Placket

Press the seam towards the placket. Wrap the folded edge of the placket around the seam, lining up the fold with the stitching line. Pin this edge in place.

Step 7: Edge Stitch and Finish the Placket

Edge stitch along the folded edge of the placket. To finish, fold your placket so that the raw edges of the sleeve are in line with each other. Sew diagonally across the top corner of the placket to secure it in place.

How to finish the edges of a t-shirt placket

To finish the edges of a t-shirt placket, follow these steps:

• Cut the fabric: Decide on the desired width and length of your placket opening. For a wider placket, multiply the desired width by three to get the width for each fabric strip. Cut two strips of fabric, one longer than the other. The longer strip should be the desired opening length plus a 1/2-inch seam allowance at the top and a 1.5-inch seam allowance at the bottom. The shorter strip should be the desired opening length plus a 1/2-inch seam allowance at both the top and bottom.
• Position the fabric: Place the longer strip of fabric on the "wrong" side or inside of the shirt, with the "right side" facing down. Align the right edge of the fabric with the left opening of the shirt, allowing the top edge to overlap the neckline by 1/2 inch. Ensure the edge of the placket fabric is evenly matched with the cut edge of the shirt fabric and pin it in place.
• Sew the fabric strips: Place the shorter strip of fabric along the right opening of the shirt in the same manner as the longer strip, pinning it in place. Sew both strips in place along the openings of the shirt, using a seam allowance that is half of your desired placket width. Add an extra 1/2 inch to the length of the stitching, so your lines of stitches are equal to the desired opening length.
• Cut diagonal lines: Turn the shirt to the outside or "right side" of the fabric. Cut two diagonal lines from the bottom of the opening towards the end of each seam, being careful not to cut through the seam or the placket fabric on the other side.
• Fold and iron the shorter strip: Turn the shirt back to the inside and fold the shorter strip on the right all the way over to the left, along the seam where it is attached to the shirt. Iron it in place.
• Bring the shorter strip to the front: Pull the shorter flap through the opening to the front of the shirt, fitting it through the diagonal slit at the bottom of the opening.
• Fold and iron the edges: Fold the right edge of the shorter strip by 1/2 inch and iron it in place. Then, fold this entire piece of fabric over to the left, exposing the "right side" of the fabric. Fold the left side of the fabric back onto itself, matching the top and bottom edges.
• Sew the top of the shorter strip: Sew along the very top of the shorter strip, securing all the layers together. The seam should be 1/2 inch from the top, or right above the neckline.
• Trim the corners: Trim off each corner without cutting through the seam to reduce bulk.
• Turn the shorter strip right side out: Turn the shorter strip right side out, encasing this side of the shirt opening. The top should be nicely closed around the neckline, while the bottom remains open.
• Fold and pin the triangle: Lift the very bottom of the shorter strip and fold down the little triangle of shirt fabric. Keep the triangle folded and pin the end of the fabric back in place.
• Sew down the left side: Sew all the way down the left side of the shorter strip and across the bottom, making sure to catch the folded edge of the triangle within your seam.
• Repeat for the longer strip: Follow the same steps for the longer strip of fabric on the other side, folding it over to the right, ironing, and sewing.
• Sew down the edges of the longer strip: Make a seam down both edges of the longer strip, stopping at the same point as the shorter strip below. The seams should be equal to the length of your desired placket opening.
• Fold and press the end of the longer strip: Lift the very bottom of the longer strip and fold under the end by 1/2 inch. Press the fabric down and trim off any excess fabric if the ends are bulky or overlapping.
• Sew the end of the longer strip: Sew the end of the longer strip in place, creating a square of seams. Ensure that any excess fabric is hidden and folded underneath. Then, sew a large "X" through the square to secure the stitching.
• Attach your chosen closure: You can now attach your desired closure, such as buttons, snaps, or velcro.

Frequently asked questions