Make A Tank Top Without Patterns: A Creative Guide

Making a tank top without a pattern is a simple sewing project that requires only basic sewing skills and a yard and a half of fabric. This DIY project is perfect for those who want to create their own clothing without the need for complex patterns and rules. By tracing around an existing tank top, you can draft a pattern and create a master pattern copy to ensure the perfect shape. With the right fabric, such as linen, and a few simple steps, you can design a versatile and stylish tank top that's perfect for any season.

Characteristics of making a tank top without a pattern

Draft a pattern by tracing a tank top you already own

If you want to make a tank top without a pattern, you can draft a pattern by tracing a tank top you already own. This method ensures that your new tank top will be the right size for you.

First, find a basic tank top in your closet that fits you well. Avoid using a top with darts, pleats, or other accents. Fold the tank top in half along its vertical center and place it on top of a large sheet of paper. You can use brown drafting paper, blank newsprint, or another type of paper. Make sure to fold the tank top along its back so that the front neckline remains visible. Then, trace around the entire outline of the tank top, adding a 1/2-inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance. If you're using a knit tank top as your base but want to make a woven version, add an additional 1 inch (2.5 cm) around the perimeter and inside the seam allowance.

Next, you'll need to create a separate pattern piece for the back of the tank top. Move the folded tank top to another section of paper and carefully fold the back neckline between the straps. Trace around this new outline, again adding a 1/2-inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance. Make sure that the rest of the perimeter remains even after you fold in the neckline. Cut out both pattern pieces and label them "Back" and "Front" accordingly. You may also want to mark where the fold sits on each pattern piece.

Now that you have your pattern pieces, you can move on to cutting and sewing your new tank top. Choose a fabric you like and fold it in half. Place your pattern pieces on the same side of the fabric, lining up the "fold" marks with the actual fold of the fabric. Pin the pattern pieces in place and use a fabric pencil or chalk to trace the outline onto the fabric. Cut out both pieces, then unfold and separate them. From here, you can follow a basic tank top sewing tutorial to assemble your new top.

Cut the fabric with a 1/2-inch seam allowance

Seam allowance refers to the area between the stitching and the raw, cut edge of the fabric. It is important to understand the anatomy of a seam to know how the parts of a seam work. Seam allowances are usually unseen, inside the garment, but some, such as in a Flat Felled Seam, are visible.

The most common seam allowances are 1/4, 1/2, and 5/8 of an inch. The 1/2-inch seam allowance is the standard for most regular seams when making your own patterns. It is easier to work with and measure than the 5/8-inch seam allowance, which is the standard for most seams in commercial store-bought sewing patterns.

When cutting the fabric for the tank top, be sure to cut it with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. This means that you should cut the fabric with a 1/2-inch excess around the outline of your existing top. This excess fabric will be used to form the seams of the tank top by providing enough fabric to stitch the pieces together.

The seam allowance should be the same for all layers of fabric that are joined by a seam. This ensures that the raw edges line up evenly, creating equal seam allowances on all of the pieces being joined. Accurate seam allowances are important to ensure that the pattern pieces fit together correctly and that the intended outcome of the pattern is achieved.

After cutting the fabric with the 1/2-inch seam allowance, you can then proceed to sew the pieces together, using the seam allowance as a guide to ensure that the garment maintains the correct fit and measurements.

Sew a basic top, adding darts for a better fit

To sew a basic tank top without a pattern, you can use an existing sleeveless top as a guide. Fold your chosen fabric in half and place the top, also folded in half, on top of it. Pin the top in place to prevent shifting and cut around it, adding a seam allowance. Repeat this process for the back and front pieces, and for the neckline if you want a scoop neck.

Now, you can sew a basic top by sewing the sides and straps, and hemming the neck and bottom. However, for a better fit, you can add darts to the basic pattern. Darts are the ultimate shaping tool and are usually found at bust lines, the back of a garment, and waistbands. They can be straight, curved, or double-pointed, and they give the garment a more precise and localized shape.

To sew darts, first, transfer your markings to your fabric using a water-soluble pen or chalk. Fold the dart with right sides together, matching up the lines that form the legs of the dart, and pin it in place. Begin at the wide end of the dart, backstitching a couple of stitches to anchor the thread. Sew through the line to the tip, then knot the tails of the thread together to secure. Press the dart in the direction indicated by the pattern, using a tailor's ham to help get the tip nice and flat.

For a double-pointed dart, sew as if you're sewing two darts. Start in the middle and backstitch, then sew out to a tip. Return to the middle, overlap your backstitching, and sew to the other tip. If your fabric appears bulky, clip or trim the center of the dart and finish the raw edges.

Finish all the raw edges with a strip of fabric

Binding with bias tape is a great way to finish raw edges with a strip of fabric. Bias tape is cut on the bias (diagonally) so that it can stretch around curves. You can buy ready-made bias tape or make your own from a piece of fabric.

Step 1: Cut and Iron the Binding

First, cut the binding to the length of your seam allowance. If you are making your own binding, cut strips of fabric on the bias and triple-fold them.

Step 2: Line Up the Binding

Unfold one side of the binding and line up its raw edge with the raw edge of your fabric. Secure the unfolded side of the binding to the right side of your fabric with pins.

Step 3: Stitch Close to the Fold

Sew along the first fold line, attaching the tape to the fabric.

Step 4: Enclose the Raw Edge

Turn your binding over to enclose the raw edge within.

Step 5: Fold and Press Again

Fold down the same side of the binding one more time, hiding all raw edges inside. Then, iron flat to make sure everything stays together.

Step 6: Pin in Place

Pin the binding in place again to make sure it doesn't move while you sew.

Step 7: Sew Near the Inner Edge

Topstitch through all layers on top, close to the inner edge of the binding.

Tips:

• If you are using a sewing machine, set it to a medium width and stitch length.
• Serging or using a serger machine is another option for finishing raw edges. A serger wraps the thread around the edge of the fabric for a strong and neat finish.
• Pinking shears can also be used to quickly stop the fabric from fraying by cutting a zigzag edge.
• If you don't want to sew, you can use fabric glue, heat-sealing, nail polish, or iron-on hem tape to seal fabric edges. However, these methods may not be as long-lasting or suitable for all fabrics.

Hem the neck and bottom

Hemming the neck and bottom of your tank top is the final step in the sewing process. Before you get to this point, you will have sewn the sides and straps, so all that remains is to finish the neck and bottom edges.

If you are using a fabric that frays, such as linen, you will need to finish the raw edges with a serger or a zigzag stitch before you hem. This will prevent the fabric from fraying further. Then, fold the raw edge under by 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and press it with an iron. Secure the hem with pins and sew it in place.

If you are using a fabric that does not fray, such as jersey, you can simply cut the fabric and leave the edges raw if you prefer. Otherwise, you can finish the neck and bottom edges in the same way as above.

Frequently asked questions