Patching Up Winter Warmers: Mending Holes In Wool Coats

Wool coats are often expensive, so it can be distressing when they get damaged. Luckily, there are several ways to mend holes in a wool coat and extend its life. The simplest method is to use a felting technique, which involves bonding new wool to the coat to hide the hole. Alternatively, you can try darning, which is a traditional method that involves sewing stitches across and around the hole to close it up. If you want an invisible repair, you may need to seek out a professional invisible reweaver, which can be costly.

How to Mend Holes in a Wool Coat

Using a patch to cover the hole

Firstly, you'll want to find a patch that closely matches the colour and fabric of your coat. You can either buy ready-made patches or make your own. If you're making your own, try to use fabric scraps that are similar in colour and texture to your coat. You can use fusible webbing, such as Bondaweb, to attach your patch to the coat. Cut the patch into a shape that will completely cover the hole, leaving some extra fabric around the edges for a secure hold.

Before applying your patch, sew a running stitch around the hole to prevent it from getting any bigger. This step is important to ensure that your coat doesn't continue to tear or fray. If the hole is in a prominent place, you might want to unpick some of the lining at the bottom of the coat to find fabric that matches the coat's exterior.

Now, you can either iron on your patch or sew it in place by hand. If you're using fusible webbing, follow the instructions on the package to properly adhere the patch to the coat. If you're hand sewing, use small, careful stitches to secure the patch all around the edges. Try to match the colour of your thread to the coat and patch as closely as possible for a more inconspicuous finish.

Once you've secured the patch, your coat is ready to wear again! This method is a simple and effective way to mend holes in wool coats, and with a well-matched patch, it can be challenging to spot the difference.

Darning the hole

Darning is a traditional way of dealing with holes in wool coats. It is a useful skill to have and can save you from having to take your coat to a professional. Here is a step-by-step guide to darning a hole in a wool coat:

Firstly, you will need to gather your materials. For this method, you will need a large needle, yarn in a matching or contrasting colour, a darning mushroom (or something with a rounded side, like a teacup), scissors, wool thread, an embroidery hoop, and a needle threader.

Before you start darning, stabilise the fabric behind the hole. You can do this with temporary fabric adhesive, or by basting the patch in place with stitches in a different colour so they can be easily removed later.

Now, place the section of the coat that needs to be darned in the embroidery hoop. This will keep the area stable while you work and help keep your stitches aligned with the grain of the fabric.

If the hole is quite big, sew a circle of running stitch about half a centimetre from the edge of the hole. This will prevent the hole from stretching and getting worse while you mend it. Secure your thread by sewing two to three stitches on top of each other in an undamaged part of the fabric close to the hole.

Now you can start darning. Sew horizontal stitches across the hole, starting and ending close to, but on the hole side of, your circle of running stitches. Then, weave a series of stitches perpendicular to your horizontal stitches, working the thread over and under your stitches.

Make sure you use the smallest stitches you can manage, and go past the boundaries of the hole by at least 1/4" on every side. This is the hardest part and will require practice. There are plenty of YouTube videos that demonstrate this technique.

When you are finished, leave a long end on the thread so that you can weave it into the repair, rather than securing it with a knot.

Once you have darned the hole, put the coat in the wash on a gentle cycle, such as 'delicates' or 'woollens', using a detergent suitable for wool. This will cause your stitches to 'full' slightly, making them less obvious and helping them to blend into the fabric better. Hang your coat to dry and iron on a low temperature to finish.

Using wool roving and a felting needle to fix the hole

Wool roving and a felting needle can be used to fix holes in a wool coat, especially if it is a natural fibre or a knit item. This method can also be used for thicker cotton or denim. It is a sustainable practice that can extend the life of your clothing.

Firstly, if the hole is large, sew it shut with a needle and thread. If the hole is extremely large, you may need to add a thin piece of wool felt to the underside of the coat. Place a felting mat underneath the area that requires mending.

Next, tear off a small piece of wool roving and pull the fibres apart. Roll the fibres into a loose ball. Place the roving over the hole and use the felting needle to stab the wool all over. The barbs on the needle will catch onto the fibres, and the wool will begin to compact and reduce in size. Add more wool if necessary. Keep stabbing the wool until it is well compacted and adhered to the coat.

Finally, hand wash the mended area with warm or hot water and soap. After this, the coat can be washed normally.

Unpicking the coat lining to find fabric for a patch

If you have a hole in your wool coat, one way to fix it is to unpick the coat lining to find fabric for a patch. This method can be used to repair a hole in a prominent part of the coat.

To do this, start by unpicking some of the lining at the bottom of the coat. Check if there is enough fabric to cut out a patch that is large enough to cover the hole, with a bit of extra fabric around the sides. For a 1.5-inch hole, a 3-inch square patch is ideal, but a 2-inch square will also work.

Once you have cut out the patch, you will need to get some wool thread that matches the colour of the coat as closely as possible. Look for Crewel or Tapestry yarn, as these types of thread come in a wide range of colours. You will also need a fine Crewel needle, a needle threader, and a 4- or 5-inch embroidery hoop.

After finding a colour match, split the thread into its finest pieces. Crewel and Tapestry thread is usually made up of several thinner threads twisted together, so you can often get eight fine threads from a single length of yarn.

Using a water-soluble fabric adhesive to stabilise the fabric behind the hole

Using a water-soluble fabric adhesive is a great way to stabilise the fabric behind the hole in your wool coat before you start darning. This method is easy and effective, and it will ensure your stitches are secure.

Firstly, you will need to purchase a temporary, water-soluble fabric adhesive. This type of adhesive is designed to dissolve in water, so it is perfect for temporarily stabilising your fabric. You can find this product at most craft stores or online.

Next, you will want to prepare the area you will be working on. Make sure the fabric is clean and free of any debris. If the hole is in a busy area of the coat, you may want to consider using an embroidery hoop to keep the fabric taut and stable while you work. Place the section of the coat with the hole inside the hoop, positioning the hoop so that it holds the area you will be darning.

Now, you are ready to apply the adhesive. Carefully apply a small amount of the water-soluble adhesive to the fabric behind the hole. You want to cover an area slightly larger than the hole itself to ensure the fabric is stabilised. Follow the instructions on your chosen product for the best way to apply it. Some adhesives may require you to apply it to both sides of the fabric.

Once the adhesive is in place, you can begin the darning process. The adhesive will provide a stable base for your stitches, ensuring they are secure and less likely to come loose over time. Remember to use small, careful stitches for the most invisible mend.

After you have finished darning, you can remove the excess adhesive by washing your coat. Use a gentle cycle with a wool-safe detergent, and the water will dissolve the remaining adhesive. The movement of the fabric in the wash will also help to 'full' your stitches, making them less obvious and helping them blend into the fabric.

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