Reviving A Tattered Wool Coat: A Step-By-Step Restoration Guide

how to restore a tattered wool coat

Wool coats are a winter staple, but they can get worn out over time. Whether you're looking to restore a beloved coat or want to thrift a new one, there are several ways to make your wool coat look new again. From removing lint and pills to tailoring and dry cleaning, giving your coat a refresh is cheaper than buying a new one. In this article, we will explore the different ways to restore a tattered wool coat, so you can keep yourself warm and stylish for many winters to come!

Characteristics Values
Reason for restoration Coat was worn-down, ill-fitting, and had pilling
Coat type Black wool overcoat
Cost $130
Usage Daily use for 5 years
Activities Tree-chopping, sledding, backpacking
Previous maintenance Dry-cleaned, button re-sewn, de-pilling with a safety razor blade
Button replacement Horn buttons
Sewing technique Thick, 100% polyester thread
Tailor cost $100 for waist and sleeve alterations, and button replacement
De-pilling tool $10-15 de-pilling machine
Cleaning Dry cleaning, hand-washing, or machine-washing with wool/gentle cycle and mild detergent
Drying Lay flat to dry, avoid wringing or tumble drying
Storage Hang on a broad, wooden coat hanger in a well-ventilated closet

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Removing lint and pilling

Lint and pilling can make your wool coat look worn out and fuzzy. To restore its smoothness, you'll need to remove the lint and pilling.

Use a lint brush or a garment comb to brush your wool coat. Use firm strokes when brushing, paying close attention to areas that pill heavily, like the sides of the sleeves that brush against the torso of the coat. Ensure full lint and pill removal by unfolding the collar and cuffs before brushing.

You can also use a fabric shaver or a suede brush to remove pills. Lay the coat flat, then gently comb it with short, downward strokes. Be careful not to comb too aggressively, or you might snag the fabric.

After removing the lint and pills, use a suede brush to firmly brush your jacket. This will help reintegrate the woolen fibres, giving your coat a smooth look characteristic of a new wool jacket.

It's worth noting that there are some creative ways to remove pilling that are not recommended, such as using a safety razor blade to "shave" the surface of the coat. This method can be dangerous and may damage the fabric. Instead, opt for the tools mentioned above, such as a lint brush, garment comb, fabric shaver, or suede brush.

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Using a suede brush to restore smoothness

To restore smoothness to a wool coat, you can use a suede brush. As wool fibres age, they clump together, giving the coat a segmented appearance. Using a suede brush, you can smooth out the fibres, restoring the coat's original smooth texture.

Firstly, ensure you have the right brush for the job. A two-sided suede brush is ideal, as it has a wire side for removing dried mud and dirt, and a soft side for buffing the nap. If you don't have a two-sided brush, a soft-bristled brush will also work.

Before brushing, it's important to remove any lint and pilling from the coat. Use a lint brush or a fabric comb to remove these, paying close attention to areas that pill heavily, like the sides of the sleeves that rub against the torso of the coat. Unfold the collar and cuffs before brushing to ensure a thorough job.

Now, you can begin brushing the coat with the suede brush. Use firm strokes and brush in the direction of the grain. Be sure to brush the entire coat, paying extra attention to areas that appear more segmented or clumped.

After brushing, hang the coat on a broad, wooden coat hanger in a well-ventilated closet. This will help restore the coat's shape, as wool fibres can become crushed and misshapen when folded or stuffed. Leave the coat hanging for several weeks to allow the fibres to breathe and return to their original shape.

Using a suede brush is an effective way to restore the smoothness of a wool coat, giving it a fresh, new appearance.

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Hanging the coat on a broad, wooden coat hanger

Hanging your wool coat on a broad, wooden coat hanger is an important step in restoring its shape and appearance. This is because folding and stuffing wool can crush and misshape the fibres, leading to unsightly creases in the jacket.

To begin, locate a broad, wooden coat hanger that is sturdy enough to support the weight of the coat. Ensure that the hanger is made of wood, as this material is smooth and won't snag or damage the delicate wool fibres. The hanger should also be broad enough to provide ample support for the coat's shoulders, helping to maintain its structure.

Next, carefully drape the coat over the hanger, ensuring that the shoulders are aligned correctly. Gently smooth out any wrinkles or creases with your hands, being careful not to stretch or pull the fabric. Once the coat is properly placed on the hanger, find a well-aerated space to hang it, such as a closet with good air circulation or a room with open windows.

Allow the coat to hang undisturbed for several weeks. During this time, the wool fibres will breathe and relax back into their original shape. This process helps to remove creases and restore the coat's natural drape.

By following these steps and giving your coat the time it needs, you'll be well on your way to restoring its shape and giving it a fresh, crisp appearance.

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Dry cleaning

Before taking your coat to a dry cleaner, there are a few things you can do to prepare it. Firstly, remove any lint and pilling from the coat by using a lint brush or a fabric comb. Pay close attention to areas that pill heavily, such as the sides of the sleeves that brush against the torso of the coat. Unfold the collar and cuffs before brushing to ensure thorough lint and pill removal.

Next, use a suede brush to restore the smoothness of the coat. As wool ages, the fibres can clump together, giving the coat a segmented appearance. By firmly brushing the coat with a suede brush after removing the lint and pills, you can reintegrate the fibres, restoring the smooth look characteristic of a new wool coat.

Once you have completed the above steps, you can take your coat to a professional dry cleaner. They will have the necessary equipment and expertise to handle wool coats and will be able to effectively remove any stains or remaining pills.

After dry cleaning, it is important to properly hang your coat to restore its shape. Use a broad, wooden coat hanger and place the coat in a well-aerated closet for several weeks. Allowing the wool fibres to breathe will help return the jacket to its original shape.

By following these steps, you can effectively use dry cleaning to restore your tattered wool coat, making it look and feel like new again.

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Replacing buttons

When buttons become loose or fall off, sewing them back on can restore the coat's function and appearance. Coat buttons often need to be sewn back on securely because they are used every time you wear the coat.

To sew buttons back onto a wool coat, you will need:

  • Dressmaker's chalk
  • Matching buttons (flat or shank-style)
  • Matching upholstery-weight thread
  • A long and sturdy hand-sewing needle

First, determine the proper placement of the buttons on the coat. You can use a ruler to ensure that each button is the same distance apart and the same distance from the edge of the coat. Then, make a mark with the dressmaker's chalk where you will sew each button.

Next, thread the needle with about 15 inches of thread. Pull the thread through to the halfway point so that you have a double length of thread. Tie the ends of the thread in a double knot. Position the needle at a chalk mark and insert the needle up through the backside of the coat until the knot stops the needle.

For flat buttons, insert the needle through one of the holes and then back down through another hole. For shank buttons, insert the needle through the shank hole and then straight back down through the fabric. Position a pin across the fabric immediately under the point where you are sewing the flat button. The pin will act as a spacer to create a small amount of extra thread, preventing the button from being sewn on too tightly. Make your stitches over the pin and then remove it when you finish sewing. Stitch four to five more stitches to attach a shank-style button securely. For flat buttons, make four stitches for buttons with four holes and six stitches for buttons with two holes.

End the stitching with the needle on the underside of the coat. Tie a small, tight knot against the fabric and snip off the excess thread.

Repeat these steps to stitch the remaining buttons to the coat. For flat buttons, you can create a thread shank for additional strength. After the final stitch, insert the needle back up through the fabric under the button but do not insert it through a buttonhole. Wrap the thread four or five times around the threads beneath the button and then insert the needle back down to the underside of the coat. Tie a knot and clip off the thread.

Alternatively, if you don't want to deal with the hassle of sewing buttons, you can always take your coat to a tailor, who will be able to replace the buttons for a small fee.

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Frequently asked questions

The first step is to clean the coat. Wool coats can be washed at home, but they should be turned inside out to prevent pilling and damage. Use a wool cycle on your washing machine if available, or a gentle/delicate cycle on cold. Never wash wool on hot as this will weaken the fibres and cause shrinkage.

Pilling refers to the formation of lint balls on the fabric. These can be removed with a garment comb, fabric shaver, or pill remover. Lay the coat flat and use short, downward strokes when combing to avoid snagging the fabric.

Wool coats should be dried flat, never put in a dryer as this could cause shrinkage. If hand-washing, gently squeeze out excess water and then lay the coat on a towel, rolling it up to absorb moisture.

Yes, you can also use a suede brush to restore the smoothness of the coat. Brushing the coat firmly with a suede brush reintegrates the wool fibres, giving it a smooth and new appearance.

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