Cut And Style: Transforming A T-Shirt

Sewing a T-shirt is a fun and rewarding DIY project. It's a great way to express your creativity and customize your wardrobe. In this guide, we'll walk you through the process of making your very own T-shirt at home.

Getting Started:

First, you'll need to gather your materials and tools. For this project, you'll require:

- A sewing machine capable of doing a zig-zag stitch (a regular machine will work too)

- Cotton Jersey fabric with 2% Spandex or less (pre-wash your fabric to account for shrinking)

- A T-shirt pattern (you can create your own using an existing T-shirt or find free patterns online)

- Sewing machine needles (a universal 80/10 needle should work for most fabrics)

- Thread (regular, all-purpose thread is suitable)

- Pins and/or sewing clips

- Sharp scissors or a rotary trimmer

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Cutting and Sewing:

Once you have your materials ready, it's time to cut your fabric according to your chosen pattern. Remember to cut the front and back pieces on the fold, and the sleeves may be cut as mirror images or on the fold, depending on your pattern.

Now, let's begin sewing! Place the front and back pieces of your T-shirt right sides together and sew the shoulders with a stretch stitch. Then, open your shirt flat and pin or clip the sleeves in, right sides together. Match the top center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam and pin the ends of the sleeve to the end of the armhole. Stitch the sleeves in place.

Next, fold your shirt right sides together and match the sleeve seam at the armpit. Sew the underarm seam and the side seam in one continuous line.

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Adding the Neckline and Hemming:

At this point, you can add the neckline. Fold your neckband in half and match the short sides, then sew them together. Open up the neckband, fold it so that the seam allowances are inside, and mark quarter points. Match these points to the quarter points on the neckline and stitch, stretching the neckband slightly to lay flat.

Finally, it's time to hem the sleeves and bottom edge. You can use a twin needle or a cover stitch machine for a professional finish. Press your hem with spray starch first to make it easier to work with.

And that's it! You've created your very own T-shirt. With practice, you'll be able to experiment with different fabrics, styles, and variations to make unique and stylish T-shirts. Happy sewing!

Choosing the right fabric

Cotton

Cotton is widely considered the best fabric for everyday T-shirts thanks to its softness, breathability, and ability to absorb moisture. It is also the most widely used natural fabric in the world. Cotton is praised as the best material for T-shirts and other products we use daily. It is natural, comfortable, soft, and stays cool in the summer. It is also durable, biodegradable, and great for hot weather. However, cotton tends to wrinkle and shrink, and the colours on cotton T-shirts tend to fade over time.

Cotton T-shirts can be made from several types of cotton, including:

• Ringspun cotton: This is a bit softer, smoother, and more durable than regular cotton due to a tightly woven fabric and the spinning process.
• Combed and ringspun cotton: This type of cotton is even softer than ringspun cotton because it’s been combed to remove impurities, giving a smoother surface for print.
• Organic cotton: This is grown without synthetic fertilisers, making it a costlier yet more ecological option. It is soft, popular, and just as durable and smooth as regular cotton.
• Slub cotton: This is a light and airy fabric that makes high-quality cotton T-shirts that don’t cling to the body. It has a great feel and doesn’t require much ironing.
• Pima cotton: This is one of the finest varieties in the world, making it smooth, soft, and durable. The material is resistant to tearing, wrinkling, and fading.

Polyester

Polyester is a synthetic fabric, usually made from plastic, and is the most popular and versatile synthetic fabric for garments. It is a durable fabric that can withstand stretching, creasing, and activity, making it a good choice for custom T-shirts and athletic apparel. Polyester fabric dries quickly, doesn’t need careful washing, and holds printed designs very well. However, the fabric texture can vary, and it is typically non-biodegradable.

Cotton/Polyester Blends

Cotton/polyester blended T-shirts combine some of the benefits of cotton and polyester while facing some of the same limitations as polyester. They are soft and comfortable, quick-drying, resistant to wrinkles and shrinking, and durable. However, they can cling and irritate the skin, and they are less biodegradable.

Linen

Linen is a natural fabric made from the fibres of the flax plant. It is known for its lightweight and breathable qualities, making it an excellent choice for warm weather. Its distinct texture and slightly crisp feel make it a popular T-shirt choice for casual and summer wear. Linen is breathable, lightweight, durable, and highly resistant to rotting and bad odours, but it is prone to shrinkage and wrinkles.

Tri-blends

Tri-blends combine polyester, cotton, and rayon, resulting in one of the softest T-shirt material options available. It adds a light and silky drape to the T-shirt.

Cutting the fabric using a pattern

To cut the fabric using a pattern, you will first need to create a pattern. To do this, you can use a shirt that already fits you well as a guide. Fold the shirt in half vertically, keeping the front sides out, and lay it over a large sheet of paper. Pin along the back outline, paying special attention to the back neckline seam beneath the collar and the sleeve seam. Then, trace the outline using a pencil. Repeat this process for the front outline of the shirt, paying attention to the front neckline, which is usually deeper than the back. Next, unfold the shirt and flatten out one sleeve, pinning it to clean paper and tracing around the outline.

Now, add seam allowances to each piece. Use a flexible ruler and pencil to draw another outline around the current perimeter of each piece, this time adding your chosen seam allowance. For example, a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance will give you plenty of room to work with. Label each piece, marking the fold lines of the front and back body pieces, as well as the sleeve.

Once you are happy with your pattern, you can cut and match the pieces. Verify that the pattern pieces match up by placing the open sides of the front and back pieces together, checking that the shoulders and armholes line up. When you are happy with your pattern, you can use it to cut out the fabric for your t-shirt.

Sewing the shoulder and side seams

Now that you have your fabric cut and your supplies ready, it's time to sew your T-shirt! Here's a detailed guide on sewing the shoulder and side seams:

Sewing the Shoulder Seams:

• Place the front and back body pieces of your T-shirt together, with the right sides facing inward.
• Pin around the shoulders to secure the pieces together.
• Using a straight stitch on your sewing machine, sew along both shoulder seams. Cut the thread after completing each shoulder seam.

Sewing the Side Seams:

• Open up the shirt and lay it flat, with the right side facing down.
• Fold the shirt along the shoulder seam, bringing the front and back pieces together.
• Pin the sides together, starting at the underarm and working your way down to the bottom edge.
• Sew a straight stitch along the pinned side seam, removing the pins as you go.
• Repeat this process for the other side of the shirt.

Once you've sewn the shoulder and side seams, you can continue by attaching the sleeves and finishing the neckline and hems. Remember to use a zig-zag stitch for the neckline to allow for stretch, and consider using a twin needle for a professional finish on the hems.

Attaching the sleeves

There are two basic methods for attaching sleeves: sewing sleeves flat and sewing set-in sleeves. If your T-shirt is still in pieces, sewing the sleeves flat is the best option. If your T-shirt's body piece and sleeves are already sewn up, you will need to use the set-in sleeves option.

Sewing Sleeves Flat

• Sew the shoulder seams closed, but leave the sides of the T-shirt's body piece open.
• Line up the sleeve's shoulder end with the edge of the armhole opening. Pin them together.
• Sew a straight stitch about 0.5 inches from the raw edges. Repeat this process for the other sleeve.
• Turn the T-shirt inside out and pin the edges of the body piece and sleeves together.
• Sew along the bottom edge of the sleeve and along the sides of the T-shirt's body.

Sewing Set-In Sleeves

• Turn the body piece inside-out and slip the right-side-out sleeve in wrist-first.
• Line up the edges of the armhole opening and the sleeve, and pin the sleeve to the armhole opening.
• Sew along the edges.
• Repeat the process for the other sleeve.

Finishing with the neckline and hems

Now that you've sewn the basic t-shirt, it's time to finish it off with a neat neckline and hems. Here's a detailed guide:

Step 1: Cut a Strip of Fabric for the Neckline

Cut a strip of fabric for the neckline binding, measuring approximately 4cm wide and 40-45cm long. The length may vary depending on the size of your t-shirt and the desired fit. Orientate your cutting so that the fabric strip stretches lengthwise rather than width-wise. This will ensure the neckline has enough give to comfortably stretch over your head.

Step 2: Press and Fold the Neckline Strip

Using a medium-hot iron, press the fabric strip flat. Carefully fold the strip in half lengthwise and press this fold to create a neat edge for your neckline.

Step 3: Pin the Neckline Strip to the T-Shirt

Turn your t-shirt right side out. Find the midpoint of the neckline strip and align it with the midpoint of the neck hole on the front of the t-shirt. Pin these two points together, ensuring that the raw edges of the binding strip and the neck hole are aligned.

Step 4: Stretch and Pin the Neckline Binding

Make a mark on the binding strip, 10cm away from the pinned midpoint. Pin this marked point to the shoulder seam of the neck hole, which will sit beneath your ear. The length of fabric between the pins should now be shorter for the neck binding than for the neck hole. Gently stretch the neck binding and pin it to the neck hole, ensuring it lies flat without any gaps. Repeat this process for the other half of the neckline at the front, and then for the back of the t-shirt.

Step 5: Sew the Neckline Binding

Set your sewing machine to a zig-zag stitch, as this will allow the neckline to stretch. Sew along the neck binding, removing the pins as you go. Gently stretch the neckline while sewing to ensure the binding is at a higher tension than the neck hole. When you reach the back of the neckline, where the two ends meet, stop sewing, remove any remaining pins, and unfold the two ends. Pin these ends together, right sides facing, and sew with a straight stitch. Trim any excess fabric, then fold the neckline in half again along the pressed line and sew it to the t-shirt using a zig-zag stitch.

Step 6: Try on the T-Shirt and Adjust if Necessary

Try on the t-shirt and check if the neckline comfortably stretches over your head. If it feels too tight, unpick the neckline and cut the neck hole larger, then repeat the previous steps. If the neck strap does not lie flat against your neck, it may be because the binding was not stretched tightly enough during sewing. In this case, unpick the neckline and repin it, stretching the neck binding more firmly against the neck hole.

Step 7: Hem the Sleeves and Bottom Edge

Put on the t-shirt and use tailor's chalk to mark the desired length for the sleeves and bottom edge. Take off the t-shirt and add an extra 3-4cm to these marks as a seam allowance. Cut off any excess fabric. Fold the raw edge over by approximately 1-2cm, and then fold it over again so that the raw edge is hidden. You can fold it inwards or outwards, depending on the finish you prefer. Sew over the folded edge, starting at the side of the t-shirt and working your way around. If your t-shirt has a loose fit, you can use a straight stitch. However, if it is a tighter fit, use a zig-zag stitch to allow for stretch. Repeat this process for the sleeves.

Your t-shirt is now complete! Congratulations on your new handmade garment!

Frequently asked questions